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Discussion Starter #1
I've installed a $20 amazon camera, disassembled half the back of the truck to run the wiring, took out the 47 pieces of rear seat trim to run the wires, covered everything in the black wire cover...and made up my own dongle from instructions I found in other threads at ROC. Would love to come back with "ta da." But alas, no joy.
When I plug in the dongle I made it blows fuse 23 (I think...it's been a while) the 7.5 amp one that allows shift interlock and gauges.
So does anyone SELL the dongle to mate the RCA plug feed from these aftermarket cameras to the 6- (or is it 7-?) pin connector on the back of my 2007 RTL navigation unit located under the seat.
This old body needs all the help it can get when it comes to that whopping blindspot that our RLs have. And please, no "stick-on" display ideas...those are just butt ugly, no offense.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I looked at the kit and the Handa video of the installation, and would have gone that route...save for the butt-ugly "wart" and holes this kit leaves on the upper tailgate. I ordered, painted, and installed a 2009 tailgate handle that looks clean and matches the look of the vehicle for use with my aftermarket camera installation. Here's the dongle I built, using the directions I found on here to use the camera feed in spot 5, the camera ground in spot 2 and a jumper in spots 6-7. On the other end of this is a screw-on RCA connector connecting the feed from the camera into the cab. This piece is like 6" long total.
400216
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It seems the fuse is blowing due to a short (unless the current/amperage draw of the camera exceeds the fuse rating which is unlikely). I would approach this by ensuring the pins in the OEM harness/socket cable are what you expect them to be...

I'm guessing from my knowledge of other cameras that you have a ground, 12v+ remote turn on wire, 12v+ constant and/or switched, signal+, and signal- wire (signal- could be same as ground).

You seem to only have 2 wires in your harness going to your camera and 2 wires jumpered. This doesn't seem right. The reasons 8 can think of for a jumper would be to negate the need for a trigger/remote wire, to use constant 12v+ instead of switched, or to jumper ground to signal-. The latter ground reason is fine, but the other 2 will likely result in the camera always being on and draining your battery, or an even worse issue which I won't get into.


Also, have you checked with a meter that the factory pins do what you expect? Verifications you can perform using a multimeter:

Check below without custom harness connected and check connection to headunit...

  • Ground pin in harness should be <1 Ohm to - battery terminal.
  • Switched 12v+ pin in harness should be <1 Ohm to + battery terminal but only when ignition switch is on.
  • Remote/trigger 12v+ pin in harness should be <1 Ohm to + battery terminal but only when ignition switch is on and the camera is activated (presumably by putting truck in reverse or otherwise activating it via the headunit).
  • Constant 12v+ pin in harness should be <1 Ohm to + battery at all times.
  • Signal + pin should, at all times and conditions, have no voltage and have lots of resistance when tested between any switched or constant known 12v- or 12v+.
Lastly, have you tested the camera on a different system to ensure it is working as expected? You might try hooking it up to a 12v source and to a tv or monitor input.




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