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Thought I would start a new thread on this since it is finally the winter months for many of us RL owners and the days of washing the truck in the driveway now have to wait till Spring.

I was curious to what everyone does in winter months to keep their RLs looking clean and salt free as this is my first winter with the Ridgeline.

I mainly have to depended on automatic car washes for past vehicles this time of year. I only use brush-less/touch-less car washes and then either take a mist detail spray to wipe off the reaming water and dirt, or only dry out the the door jams and leave the rest to air dry on its own.

If we get a random day in the 40s or 50s, I will take it to the self wash bays and power wash rinse, then wash with my own bucket and sponge to actually wash the vehicle and then power wash rinse again.

My main question to anyone is I have an OEM bug-shield on the front. I know they don't drill anything into the hood, so how is this thing held onto the truck? My main concern is some of the automatic jet dryer type things in these car washes. It can handle going through something like this correct?
 

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Does anyone know if the automatic car washes that claim to clean the undercarriage would help in the RL's ability to resist the onset of rust? Or is it pretty much going to do what it's going to do? I live in Northern Illinois and they use a lot of salt on the roads.

M
 

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Does anyone know if the automatic car washes that claim to clean the undercarriage would help in the RL's ability to resist the onset of rust? Or is it pretty much going to do what it's going to do? I live in Northern Illinois and they use a lot of salt on the roads.

M
...I'm guessing we get a fair bit more salt than you

All of them will rust underneath sooner or later, but I always use the underbody flush in the winter. I try to get it washed once a week..temp permitting. We're not as limited on temperature because we have a garage.
 

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Self wash bays for me. Get the heavy grit and salt off at a minimum. Spray underneath. If warm enough, warm water and sponge at home. Towel dry. I never use a drive thru.

Do have a garage with h/c water which helps during the cold months.
 

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5 bucks in quarters when wind dies down and attempt at or above freezing at self wash.

First rinse off brush with pressure...blast truck with water...special time under and wheel wells for salt..soap brush quick clean off major filth...top to bottom...no it doesnt scratch if gentle...right rinse all soap and under truck again..then spot free rinse...dont wipe off with detailer unless i really got vehicle clean and warmer..in reality when its real cold things rust very slowly even with salt...its when it warms up and salty watery roads spray the vehilcle. Power wash when roads dry up fairly..have non oem wind deflector no issues. Auto care washes better than no under wash..especially if too windy for self wash when near freezing...
I really like the flitz waax spray detaler when i know its clean..really lasts and looks great..
 

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I try to wash the truck once a month in the winter. If it's in the 40s and going to stay sunny and above freezing for the water to dry on my sloped driveway, I'll run a hose with warm water from the utility sink just inside the house from my garage out to the driveway. However, if it's colder than that (and above the mid-20s) or if I'm just lazy, i go through a drive-through carwash. It's a truck and I'm past worrying about minor paint imperfections.
 

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So would investing in some kind of "rust-proofing" for under the RL be worth it? I live in NE Ohio and we get hammered with snow and ice.
 

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So would investing in some kind of "rust-proofing" for under the RL be worth it? I live in NE Ohio and we get hammered with snow and ice.
I would say no...not worth it. for decades, that was a big expensive hook up here for dealerships to sell on new rides. I no of no one around here who has ever collected a dime from a rust proofing treatment. There is lots of BOILERPLATE language in those contracts. Most all vehicles today come with rust/perforation guarantees to 100K miles or so...rendering rust treatment procedures very high profit with little bang for the buck.
 

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Thanks. My RL is a 2007 and has no rust (80,000) miles. I want him to run for +200,000 so anything that will keep him going for that long and is a good investment I will make. Anyone else have an on rustproofing under the RL?
 

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Go buy 10 cans of rubberized undercoating and spray away. Should do wonders. Drive through car washes for me. If she rusts too much (put rear control arms on last year because I couldn't get the back aligned with rusted bolts/bushings) I'll sell her. 127,000 and seems slapped together.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Go buy 10 cans of rubberized undercoating and spray away. Should do wonders. Drive through car washes for me. If she rusts too much (put rear control arms on last year because I couldn't get the back aligned with rusted bolts/bushings) I'll sell her. 127,000 and seems slapped together.
I'd say it is fine to do that, but just be careful of over spray if you choose that method. It is amazing how little particles of that stuff travel, and you could spend some serious time trying to get it off your paint if you are not careful.

I have no done this yet to my RL, but with my Accord, I purchased a product called Fluid Film. I did lots of research on this and the reviews are great. This product is also a spray and is rather expensive ($9 a can), but is more of a oily substance and will not harm your paint if you accidentally spray it on. I spray this in all the little water release holes in the doors as well as all the locks and latches on the doors. I also took all the wheels off and sprayed all the components in the wheel well area and some of the under body. Basically this product is like a water/rust proofing. Google it and check out videos on youtube if you are curious. AMS Oil also makes something very similar. I'd say if you are only planning on keeping your vehicle 10 years, no need to invest in this hassle, but if you really plan on 15 years + it may be worth it.
 
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