Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums banner

Wiring around the tailgate hinge

2412 Views 2 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Dnick
Hey, folks.

I hope Monday is...well, it's Monday, right? I'm going to install an aftermarket backup camera, and I'll be running some wiring through the tailgate and to the driver side tail light--pretty standard. I've read thread after thread, the Honda installation instructions, and watched a few videos, but I'm still not 100% clear on the best way to route the wiring around the hinge(s) and tailgate cable. I've put a scrap wire in a few places and opened the tailgate both ways, but I'm still getting some rubbing, it seems.

Any pointers?

1 - 3 of 3 Posts
When running the wires for my DIY Tailgate Lock I wrapped them in wire conduit and routed them through the bottom left corner of the tailgate. It has worked well and occasionally makes a creak noise when opening the gate as the conduit stretches a little. However the wires are protected and have no pinches in them. I removed the side panel on the bed and ran the wires into the cab through a hole in the left corner behind the rear seat. From there I went under the door step trim towards the front.
In my first RL I went under the truck and up by the drivers door. Again it worked well but I always worried about some road trash getting caught up on them.

Pic is looking down on the left side with the tailgate down flat.


See less See more
As you've seen, there are lots of references as to how this is routed in that corner. The only thing I'll say is to make sure you leave enough slack (just a little) so that the cable is not pulled tight or strained when the door is opened/closed in either direction. This will require a little bit of "service loop"; and to make it easy on yourself, I'd include additional service loop length that you will tie up behind/after you get past the hinge. This makes routing & connecting easier, and will help if you ever have to go back & service this area.

ALSO, in my case I did not use a corregated tube as shown above, but I did encase the cable in shrink sleeve to provide extra protection. And while that precluded any issues with abrasion, I still encountered an intermittent contact problem that I had to go in and fix.
What happened to me was the result of using crimp connectors, combined with the movement that results from this routing & the movement in this hinge area (my connectors were very close to this point). That was my fault for not getting some additional cable & splicing in a diffferent place (the cable length that came with my lock only just barely reached the cable I was tying into, and that was 'just past' the hinge). I had to go back in & redo this connection point about 7 years down the road.

Suggestion to avoid my experience: Either solder the connection, or easier yet, just crimp connect in an area that is not subject to movement (even if this requires an additional splice to add more cable than comes with your actuator/kit).

Stay clear of pinch points at the hinge, and allow plenty of flex space & you'll be fine (anchor it down both before & after the hinge area). That protective sleeve shown above is a great idea also if it doesn't mar the paint or make too much noise.

See less See more
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.