Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here's the scoop on Yakima and Thule racks for the RL:

As of two weeks ago, Yakima's fit kit for the RL is still under development. No timeline for completion. Thule has a fit kit listed on their fit list at their website (under the 2005 model year, btw), but I was told by the Thule rep that the kit will not be in the country (Thule is Swedish) for several months.

So, if you want to have Yakima or Thule racks, you have few options:

  1. Permanent installation using tracks or landing pads
  2. The factory rack and clips to fit on the crossbars so you can use Yakima or Thule accessories

I have a lot of Yakima and Thule accessories already, so I didn't want to spend the $280 or so for the factory rack. So I did a permanent installation with the Yakima Track system, which are tracks that bolt on permanently to the roof, and Landing Pad and Control Tower towers for the bars. This isn't for the squemish: you have to drill into the roof. But it looks completely clean and stock after its done, and it's easy to remove the rack from the tracks if you need to go into a car wash. Plus you can slide the bars as needed for different loads.

I also bought the wind fairing because the wind noise was fierce. The fairing cut it down to almost nothing.

Pics:







Oh, if you don't like the giant "Yakima" or "Thule" logo on your fairing, simply install the fairing backwards.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Great! Thanks for posting. I also have a wide assortment of Yak and Thule parts and would like to recycle some. Additionally, the load specs on the factory rack looked a little under the limits of the two big aftermarket manufacturers. Good solution, but I think I am going to wait for a fit-kit. Thanks again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
492 Posts
Hankim,

Could you have mounted the tracks in the gutter area? Do you have to access anything inside under the headliner for the install? Looks good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
bliss53 said:
Hankim,

Could you have mounted the tracks in the gutter area? Do you have to access anything inside under the headliner for the install? Looks good.
The tracks are mounted right next to the gutter area. Be aware that the gutters are not exactly parallel, and the tracks need to be, so don't use the gutters as your reference.

I did not have access to the underside of the roof short of taking the headliner off. But both Thule and Yakima have special nuts that you can insert and flare with a special tool so that it locks onto the roof from the top, similar to drywall anchors. Very solid. Yakima and Thule both indicate that the weight limit with this setup is 165 lbs.

It looks really clean and stock. It took me about 90 minutes to install. The only hard part was getting the nerve to drill holes into a brand new truck with less than 1000 miles on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,170 Posts
wow that looks nice, wish I had seen this months ago but then you probably hadn't done it then. I have a small assortment of Yakima parts, mostly for the canoe we own, it would have been nice to use the bars because they are wide enough for the two kayaks we are intending to buy to be up there at the same time, while the truck's rack is a little narrow for two.

One concern though, isn't the rating supposed to be based on the truck's roof specification versus the spec for the rack kit? So if the roof is designed for 100lb max adding a 165lb kit doesn't change this. I don't remember for sure, I haven't really looked at the kits for a long time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I'm no expert, but I would imagine if you were to mount the rack directly to the roof it would be unwise to exceed the roof's load-bearing capacity. However, I think much would depend on the type of feet/towers employed. The further outboard your feet are mounted the closer they are to structural components, etc... I'm not sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
DH1 said:
I'm no expert, but I would imagine if you were to mount the rack directly to the roof it would be unwise to exceed the roof's load-bearing capacity. However, I think much would depend on the type of feet/towers employed. The further outboard your feet are mounted the closer they are to structural components, etc... I'm not sure.
Indeed, the racks typically are stronger than the capacity of the roof, so the strength of the roof becomes the limiting factor.

However, in my experience, at least with Yakima and their Q Towers, the load capacity is almost universally 165 lbs. And looking at the track installation manual for the Yakima Tracks, again the load capacity is almost always 165 lbs. (although the RL is not specifically listed on the manual, the the capacity of the Tracks installed on an Ody or CR-V is 165 lbs.).

Also, I actually kneeled on the edge of the roof, right next to the gutter, while installing my tracks, and there was no problems with holding my weight, and I weigh about 185 lbs. So I have no concerns with the weight capacity of the installation, for what that's worth.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
I was digging the XT components on your bike. I have a now vintage Diamond Back Axis TT Titanium fram with the old short cage xtr derailer. Doesn't the truck look so muchj better carrying your bike?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
626 Posts
I used to have a Yakima rack on my wagon, which I've sold... I wanted to try mounting the Yakima fairing on the RL to see if it would fit & would reduce wind noise, but unfortunately the guy who bought my wagon was so anxious to get it that I ran out of time...

Some other people on here mentioned that they have Yakima products... does anyone have the Yakima (or Thule) fairing that they could try on their RL with the OEM roof racks to see if it fits and reduces the wind noise? That would be super-cool if it did. The fairing is expensive enough (and I'm lazy enough) that I wouldn't want to go out and buy one just to try it (and then presumably try to return it if it didn't work, if they'd even take it back...).

Anyway, if someone has the means and the time to try this and report back, that would be :cool:. TIA!

TIA: Thanks in advance :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hey, this was a huge help. I just bought my RTL with Navi today (black) and tirned down the factory rack because I had a hunch the track option was out there. Any problems installing with the moonroof? I may have Sports Rack do the work.

WindSno
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
WindSno said:
Hey, this was a huge help. I just bought my RTL with Navi today (black) and tirned down the factory rack because I had a hunch the track option was out there. Any problems installing with the moonroof? I may have Sports Rack do the work.

WindSno

No idea about the moonroof; I have an RTS without one. I'd imagine that you have to be a little more careful to not drill into the cables or mechanism. But the tracks are far enough to the side that it shouldn't be an issue.

To have Sport Rack (I think they're called Rack n' Road now) do it, it's roughly $400, including bars, towers, tracks and installation. They are pretty good about prices, and you can negotiate with them a bit. It is a bit time consuming to drill all those holes in the roof.

I think there's a Rack n' Road on Aurora near 6500, if I'm not mistaken. Not sure if there's one on your side of the sound. And I think there's one in Bellevue, if you want to wander over to the east side (which I always loathed to do when I lived in Seattle, with the traffic across the bridges and all).

I really like this better than the factory rack. More versatile, especially with all the accessories.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
NJRidge said:
I was digging the XT components on your bike. I have a now vintage Diamond Back Axis TT Titanium fram with the old short cage xtr derailer. Doesn't the truck look so muchj better carrying your bike?
I do like xtr, but it's a bit pricey for my use. I use mostly xt, with xtr hubs and rear derailleur. I tend to use Avid brakes and levers. I like to try to use non-Shimano parts a bit; Shimano acts like Microsoft sometimes, creating their own patented standards (like their new bottom brackets and disc brake mounts) so that other manufacturers can't use them.

And yes, the truck does look nice with a couple of bikes on top. Just remember how TALL the truck is with a bike on the roof!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
Yakima racks for the RL bed with tandem?

We own a tandem and were trying to figure out how to get a Yakima bar attached to the weird-shaped longish cleat in the bed-nearest the rear window.
Our Santana tandem measures 71 long without the front wheel. We'd like to get a Yakima bar...and somehow attach it to the cleat (near the back window). The bike will stand on the front fork mounts (we'll have to tie it to hold it up), with the gate down. Haven't figured out how to get the back wheel attached to 'something'...either.

Any ideas on this? We have a load of Yakima parts, etc. and wanted to try going off one bar (tandem won't fit on roof!). We also have two Yakima 'truck' mounts that hold the forks (they attach into the bed via drilling)...but wish to hold off going that route.
We were also thinking about mounting those on say a 2x4...but how to get the 2x4 'mated' to the bed cleats and we still have that rear wheel issue..
We also own Yakima short tray for rear....but what to mount that on when bed is down....(no gate accessory yet).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Re: Yakima racks for the RL bed with tandem?

kahnartist said:
We own a tandem and were trying to figure out how to get a Yakima bar attached to the weird-shaped longish cleat in the bed-nearest the rear window.
Our Santana tandem measures 71 long without the front wheel. We'd like to get a Yakima bar...and somehow attach it to the cleat (near the back window). The bike will stand on the front fork mounts (we'll have to tie it to hold it up), with the gate down. Haven't figured out how to get the back wheel attached to 'something'...either.

Any ideas on this? We have a load of Yakima parts, etc. and wanted to try going off one bar (tandem won't fit on roof!). We also have two Yakima 'truck' mounts that hold the forks (they attach into the bed via drilling)...but wish to hold off going that route.
We were also thinking about mounting those on say a 2x4...but how to get the 2x4 'mated' to the bed cleats and we still have that rear wheel issue..
We also own Yakima short tray for rear....but what to mount that on when bed is down....(no gate accessory yet).

Have you considered this?

What's nice about it is that it doesn't require any permanent installation. It works by applying pressure via a cammed expander against the sides of the bed. What's even nicer is that you can create a homebrewed version, with a 2x4 and some bolts that can expand the length of it by about 1" or so, and some rubber feet so that it doesn't mark up the sides of the bed. Then buy some of fork mounts and bolt it on to the 2x4s.

I've seen this done on an RL recently here in Salt Lake City. It was installed higher up on the bed, just below the window. Very clean install, and it's easily removable.

And think of it this way: at least you don't have a tandem recumbent.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
ridgeline5 said:
I love your bike rack!! much cooler then mine! :(

Yeah, but I bet it's a LOT faster to rack your bike than it is for me. I have to remove the wheel (and that's a pain, with those %$&#! lawyer tabs on bike forks), open one of the doors, awkwardly haul the bike up on top of the truck, align the fork and wheel onto the mount and hope I don't drop the bike or throw my back, and then make sure the whole thing is secure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
333 Posts
Time to bump this up, I thought....

Hankim:
What is the max distance you can get between your bars?
Does the track come in different lengths?
How did you determine the proper length, where you could drill holes, etc?

Anyone have anything new on a Yakima fit-kit for the RL?

hankim said:
Here's the scoop on Yakima and Thule racks for the RL:

As of two weeks ago, Yakima's fit kit for the RL is still under development. No timeline for completion. Thule has a fit kit listed on their fit list at their website (under the 2005 model year, btw), but I was told by the Thule rep that the kit will not be in the country (Thule is Swedish) for several months.

So, if you want to have Yakima or Thule racks, you have few options:
  1. Permanent installation using tracks or landing pads
  2. The factory rack and clips to fit on the crossbars so you can use Yakima or Thule accessories
I have a lot of Yakima and Thule accessories already, so I didn't want to spend the $280 or so for the factory rack. So I did a permanent installation with the Yakima Track system, which are tracks that bolt on permanently to the roof, and Landing Pad and Control Tower towers for the bars. This isn't for the squemish: you have to drill into the roof. But it looks completely clean and stock after its done, and it's easy to remove the rack from the tracks if you need to go into a car wash. Plus you can slide the bars as needed for different loads.

I also bought the wind fairing because the wind noise was fierce. The fairing cut it down to almost nothing.

Pics:







Oh, if you don't like the giant "Yakima" or "Thule" logo on your fairing, simply install the fairing backwards.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
361 Posts
Hi, expert:

Is it possible to install the yakina racks along the bed rail? As a temporary install for occational use?

thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
farmguy said:
Time to bump this up, I thought....

Hankim:
What is the max distance you can get between your bars?
Does the track come in different lengths?
How did you determine the proper length, where you could drill holes, etc?

Anyone have anything new on a Yakima fit-kit for the RL?
Sorry it took so long to respond...

I'll have to measure the distance when I get home. The tracks do come in different lengths, 42", 54" and 60". I think I used the 54". I just took the different length tracks out and tried them. As for where to drill, I pretty much winged it. But everything works, so I didn't drill into anything critical. I can measure it and send a little template, if you'd like.

Han
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top