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AVIC-D3 Installation Information - Pictures will follow

86K views 60 replies 21 participants last post by  WichitaKevin  
#1 · (Edited)
AVIC-D3 Installation Information with Pictures

I decided to install the AVIC-D3 In-dash Nav Unit. It has taken me some time to gather all the information I needed. So to help along the next person I am going to document all the information I have gathered and I will post pictures of the install, especially the areas that will help someone like me do the install.

I am going to start my install the following components:

Pioneer AVIC-D3 In-Dash Nav Unit
Pioneer CD-BTB200 Bluetooth Adapter
Pioneer CD-I200 Ipod Interface Cable
Boyo VTL-300 Backup Camera (see picture below - I like the black full frame).

I am not an audiophile, so my install won't include new speakers, amps, sub-woofers or sound dampening material application. I would like to do the sound dampening, but it's more time and money than I want to invest.

I want to attempt to create a factory/polished look and I have ordered another pocket assembly to glue to the dash install kit and paint like mugen1 did see post:

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=229014&postcount=6

The key information that I think will help the next guy:

1. Best price and place to buy components (even if I didn't buy there)
2. Location of VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) signal wire
3. Location of Reverse signal
4. Location of brake signal (in my case how to bypass)
5. How to wire the whole installation (wiring diagram)
6. How to create the factory look dash install kit
7. Where to install the GPS antenna
8. Where to install the Microphone
9. How to route camera wire from bumper to dash
10. Special tools to make install easier

Give me some time and I will post what I have when it is ready.
 

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#2 · (Edited)
1. Best price and place to buy components

I spent quite a while searching for the best price. I found that the best prices are from internet sellers who are unauthorized dealers. This is important because Pioneer DOES NOT WARRANTY their components at all if they are not bought at an authorized dealer.

Authorized Dealers


Short list of Authorized dealers who carry the AVIC-D3 (units warranted by Pioneer for 1 year):

Crutchfield
Circuit City
Best Buy
ABT Electronics
6th Ave Electronics
Newegg
J&R
Tweeter
Car Toys​

Here is the full List of authorized dealers from Pioneers' web site (not all carry Nav units):

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/v3/pg/top/div/article/0,,2076_310070097_277297187,00.html

During my search early on I found the unit for $683 plus shipping from 6th Ave via Amazon. At the time I didn't realize that the warranty was only good through authorized dealers. Of course the deal disappeared quickly, right around the time I realized and 6th Ave is now at full retail ($999).

ABT and J&R often have the best pricing of the authorized dealers. Newegg is close as well.

The Boyo camera does not have the same warranty limits as the Pioneer components.


Unauthorized Dealers

Everyone else...

Pioneer does not allow their dealers to sell on E-Bay (stated on their website).
So anyone on e-bay who claims that the unit has a warranty is either warrantying it themselves or they are lying. So it is definitely a YMMV when buying via e-bay if you have a problem.

I found that the unit could be had via buy-it-now for as low as $650 and the unit+bluetooth adapter+ipod cable for around $815

Some of the lower cost e-bay stores with significant feedback and good ratings. Many of the sellers also offer the product through the Amazon marketplace, usually at slightly higher prices.

For Pioneer components
HifiAudioOnline
West Coast Electronix wholesale
MillionBuy

For the Boyo VTL300 camera
Barneys Electronics​

I could generally could get all the components listed in my first post including the install hardware for around $1050 using E-bay and/or the Amazon Market Place.

My Choice

I ended up buying from Crutchfield since they include the harness, dash install kit, antenna adapter and good support plus they were offering a free Boyo VTL400 backup camera which they let me upgrade to the VTL300 by paying the difference (they were also offering 12 months no interest no payment was a big plus to my wife as well). Most of the other sellers do not include the installation stuff which can be had for around $40 to $45.

I did end up paying $150 more than e-bay, but I knew I would have a warranty and top notch support (plus 12mo no pay no interest).

Reference

Installation hardware:
Dash Kit​
Metra 95-7870 or
American International HON-K836 or
Scosche HA1579B​

Wiring Harness​
Metra 70-1721 or
American International HWH-806 or
Scosche HA08 or HA028​

Antenna Adapter​
Metra 40-HD10 or
American International HO-6 or
Scosche HAAB​


Items 2. thru 10. to follow...
 
#4 · (Edited)
2. Location of VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) signal wire

Apparently the RL does not have a true VSS signal, but the wheel speed sensors which are used for the ABS/VSA can be used for most GPS systems.

I found the following information from mugen1.

I found an old message I sent to another ROC member long time ago.

==========================================
Here are the colors:

Grey/Red = sends right-rear wheel speed
Grey/Yellow = sends left-rear wheel speed
White/Red = sends left-front wheel speed
Light Green = sends right-front wheel speed

These wires are behind the passenger kick panel. just below the VTM-4 (the computer box thing that looks like an ECU). I used the White/Red wire I believe....had to because I accidentally cut it by mistake trying to take the tape off of the wire loom. Luckily it ended up to be one of the 4 wires I needed. Any one of the wires listed above is good. It sure beats trying to get at the wire in the engine compartment.

I searched high and low, but I couldn't find a picture, so here is mine. A picture is worth a 1000 words.

Edit: Bongus has confirmed that the wires pictured are the correct ones and they do work for Pioneer Head Units.

I completed my HU install using the white/red wire and it works perfectly.
 

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#13 ·
2. Location of VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) signal wire

Apparently the RL does not have a true VSS signal, but the wheel speed sensors which are used for the ABS/VSA can be used for most GPS systems.

I found the following information from mugen1.




I searched high and low, but I couldn't find a picture, so here is mine. A picture is worth a 1000 words.

I have not confirmed these yet, but hopefully others who have done installs will.
I can confirm that the wires that Mugen1 refers to are correct. I actually found 2 other places to get a speed sensor pulse. The problem with those two area are they did not register well with my HU (AVIC Z1). Use the ones that Mugen1 directed you to and you should be good to go...especially since you are putting together a Pioneer HU. :cool:
 
#5 · (Edited)
3. Location of Reverse signal

The reverse wire is accessible in the bundle directly underneath the driver's side rocker panel.

The reverse wire is a green wire that can be traced from the connector that it comes from/goes to which is located behind the lower dash panel. There are two green connectors, the green reverse wire is in the upper connector (see pictures 2 & 3).

It is supposedly hard to tap this wire near the upper green connector. The wire supposedly runs through one of the harnesses near the relay/fuse panels and is easier to tap there. You need to make sure that if you tap it away from the upper green connector that you make sure you have the right wire, since there is at least one other green wire in the harnesses by the relay/fuse panels.

Edit:

See Picture 4. I tried to tap the green wire near the upper green connector. Very difficult to do with the tight harness, short exposed wire and tight space. I ended up opening the wire harness and tapping the green wire there (see blue positap connector).

Finding the green wire in the harness was not easy. There were 10 or 12 green wires, many with color stripes, but there were 3 or 4 plain green wires in the bundle. The wire you want is a thinner plain green wire.

I ended up using a multimeter and with a needle to probe the wires to find the correct one. The wire with the blue positap connector is the one that worked.
 

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#6 · (Edited)
4. Location of brake signal (in my case how to bypass)

I have decided to bypass the "parking brake interlock" function so I can program the NAV unit while driving and search for POI's. It seems insane to me that Pioneer choose to lock these functions without the parking brake applied. Preventing you from watching a DVD while driving makes sense, but stopping you from updating your NAV destination while driving doesn't.

There are several good tutorials on AVIC411.com that describe how to wire the unit in order to bypass the "parking brake interlock" restriction.

Here are a couple:

http://www.avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4670

http://www.avic411.com/D3Bypass/album0.html

http://www.avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7998

Basic steps:
1. Using the wire tap that is already attached to the AVIC-D3 parking brake wire (green wire) attach it to the black ground wire that has a spade plug which is in the AVIC-D3 power cord harness as well.
2. Remove the yellow and black mute wire from the AVIC-D3 RCA connector harness.
3. Place the mute wire in the pin position directly above where you removed it from.
4. Using a wire tap connect the mute wire to the black ground along with the green brake wire.
5. Make sure you ground the black wire well during install.

The yellow/black mute wire is used to mute the AVIC-D3 when you are using a phone/bluetooth interface other than the CD-BTB200 (i.e. it is not needed if you use the CD-BTB200). If your install needs the AVIC-D3 mute wire then you will need to purchase a lead with the right kind of connector pin on it to insert into the pin position above the mute wire. Several people on e-bay are selling a wire with the right connector pin for this purpose. They are charging an obscene amount given what the cost to make such a wire lead like this is, but if you need it may be worth it (otherwise you need to do the research to determine the right connector pin, get the right crimp tool etc).

Edit:

I did the bypass exactly as described and it worked perfectly.
 
#7 · (Edited)
5. How to wire the whole installation (wiring diagram)

I have created a wiring diagram (see pdf file).

A couple of non-obvious things to note.

1. You need to connect the blue wire from the AVIC-D3 power harness to the blue wire from the antenna adapter so that the powered am/fm antenna gets power. Otherwise your reception will be seriously degraded.

2. Connect the orange/white wire from the AVIC-D3 power harness to the orange wire (NOT the orange/white wire) from the vehicle radio harness. The AVIC-D3 does not have a dimming function that can be dimmed along with your dash lights. The AVIC-D3 uses a 12v trigger signal to lower the brightness of the display when your running/head lights are on. The amount that the display is dimmed is based on what you select in the AVIC-D3 settings. The voltage on the orange/white wire in the vehicle radio harness will vary in voltage depending on the level you set with the dimmer control on the instrument panel and consequently the AVIC-D3 may or may not be triggered to change to the lower brightness level (that is why you need the orange wire).

Edit:

Using the attached wiring diagram I wired everything but the VSS wire, reverse wire and the vehicle ground before I started the install in the vehicle.

The only thing I had to change once I started the install was to make the black ground wire longer so I could reach metal to attach it. There is a lot of plastic in the dash and you have to hunt for metal to use as a ground.
 

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#8 · (Edited)
6. How to create the factory look dash install kit

I choose to install temporarily using the plain Metra dash install kit. I am going to order another Metra dash kit to create the color matched install kit as a third phase (second phase will be to install the rear camera).

Edit:
Ordered and received second Metra Dash kit. Sanded pebble finish smooth. Going to Auto Paint store to get the SEM paint.

I just got back from the Auto Paint Store. The best color match to the Beige interior "warm gray" I could find is the Sequoia SEM ColorCoat Paint (Item # 15673)

Others with the gray interior have used the Graphite SEM ColorCoat Paint (Item# 15303). I can't vouch for the gray interior match since I have the beige interior.
 

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#9 · (Edited)
7. Where to install the GPS antenna

This one has many answers. The best reception should be with the gps antenna installed externally.

Others have installed the antenna in various places:
1. On top of the dash
2. Under the dash (find a spot that works)
3. Attached it to the top of the head unit using the magnet.
4. Where the factory tweeter is located either driver or passenger side (they upgraded their speakers and removed the factory tweeters).

I am going to place my GPS antenna in the same spot as the GPS antenna from the OEM Nav Unit. I ordered the bracket, P/N 39836-SJC-A01, (its on backorder) and mounting screws.
The mounts for the OEM GPS Bracket are located behind the right side of the instrument panel meter assembly.

Edit:

The bracket is still on back order. I temporarily installed the sticky backed metal plate that cam with the AVIC-D3 on the duct under where the OEM GPS antenna would mount. It has very good signal there. I will install it on the OEM GPS ant bracket once I get it.
 

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#10 · (Edited)
8. Where to install the Microphone

I ended up installing the microphone on the edge of the headliner between the front overhead light/sunglass holder and the visor. The visor does not block the mic when down, the mic is very inconspicuous and it works well in that poistion (little echo).

See pictures.

When I get a chance I will get a better picture in the daylight.
 

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#11 · (Edited)
9. How to route camera wire from bumper to dash

Installed license plate camera. Used OEM rear camera instructions. Followed steps for the most part:
1) Removed door sill trim
2) Removed rear seat
3) Removed tail lights
4) Removed bed panels
5) Removed Bumper skin

Routed wire along existing harnesses (see pictures). You can't see it, but I ran the wire between the rubber gasket/moulding and the harness conduit in the front and rear door sills (first two pictures).
I took the existing solid grommet out in the bed/cab bulkhead, drilled a hole for a smaller grommet in the large hard plastic oem grommet and fished the camera wire through it. I then taped over it using waterproof tape I got at Lowes (see Picture).


I was able to skip doing several steps.
1) I did not need to remove the drivers side b-pillar lower trim panel (panel between front and rear doors). I fished the camera cable through using a another piece of electrical wire.
2) I did not need to remove the rear roof trim or the c-pillar outer trim. I was able to easily remove the front and side bed panels (see pictures).

Since I didn't use the OEM camera I didn't need to disassemble the tailgate, but I did need to modify the bumper skin for my license plate camera (pictures are in a later post in this thread).

I did have some trouble with some of the interior trim pieces. The clips were very tight and were hard to get to release. I cracked the interior trim piece that goes across the top of the rear seat because one clip released abruptly and the next one didn't. No big deal, I ordered another one for $12 at the local Honda dealer. This is the only piece that was damaged during the whole install which is pretty amazing given the number of trim pieces I have removed to complete this. Considering how much I saved doing this myself it seems like a fair price.
 

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#12 · (Edited)
10. Special tools to make install easier

I purchased the KTC panel tools. Helpful in popping the dash clips (not really needed if you are careful).

I haven't done the rear camera yet, but I expect the larger panel tool will be critical in removing the rear roof trim.

Edit: I ended up not needing to remove the rear roof trim to route the camera wire, but some of the clips on the interior rear seat trim panels were so tight that they pulled out of the trim panel and I needed to use the tools to pop the clips out of the frame so I could reinstall them in the panels.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Phase 1 Complete!
Nav unit installed with VSS signal working, reverse signal working, parking brake bypass working, and with rear camera wire routed to under the drivers seat.

Note: I have updated previous posts in this thread to reflect what I learned during install or to add pictures.

Phase 2:
I still have to complete the rear camera install. I need a good day to route the wire back to the bumper.

Phase 3:
Color matched dash kit will be a longer term project.
 

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#15 ·
I used the same ground point. Works great.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Pointers:

1) If you don't own a service manual, you should download several of the OEM accessory installation instructions. The DVD in-VEHICLE ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEM install instructions are very helpful with the dash, headliner, lower console take apart. The rearview camera install instructions are very helpful for the process on how to route the wire to the rear of the vehicle.

2) After looking for an easy place to install the Pioneer CD-BTB200 bluetooth module behind the dash, I ended up installing the module to the underside of the AVIC-D3 using 3M automotive dash velcro (Home Depot) and 4 large tie wraps around both to hold them mechanically as well. It's small and light weight, so this should be fine.
3) I made a hole in the rear top of the pocket assembly for the CD-I200 iPod adapter cable. This works well, it allows me to connect the iPod and put the iPod in the pocket with the door closed.
(Sorry I forgot to take pictures for items 2&3).

4) BEFORE you install the head unit don't forget to reconnect the hazard light harness to the hazard light switch that is part of the pocket assembly. Much easier if you do. Otherwise I needed to pop out the switch, but this is hard to do once the head unit/pocket assembly is secured.


Edit:
Added pictures of iPod/cable in pocket
 

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#17 · (Edited)
Review of operation:

I am VERY happy with the unit. I have used/tried the following:

1) iPod interface: music, video and audiobooks (see second picture below).
2) CD playback
3) DVD playback
4) Radio FM/AM
5) Bluetooth phone connectivity, dialing, sound quality and download of address book to AVIC-D3 (I have a Blackberry 8800)
6) NAV functions
7) rear view camera function

The CD-BTB200 module also supports Bluetooth audio devices. I haven't tried this since I don't own a BT audio device.

The only item I find disappointing is the "voice dialing" capability. The CD-BTB200 relies on the phone for this function. There is a button on the AVIC-D3 to initiate voice dialing, but apparently Pioneer's implementation prevents you from hearing the phone prompts to "say a command" and the list of options when there are multiple choices. If the phone recognizes the voice command right away it works, otherwise it's hit or miss. I have given up on voice dialing and just use the 6 dialing presets or use the address book.

Here are a few night pictures after install.
 

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#18 · (Edited)
Phase 2 Complete!

Boyo VTL-300 License Plate Camera is installed and working. Very good nighttime visibility and good field of view.

I had to modify the bumper to allow the license plate frame to slide into the bumper skin.

I also added holes for the lower mounting bolts. I drilled holes in the license plate and the bumper skin for the wire to pass through (added grommets in both cases.

Since the VTL-300 has captive bolts I removed the clips from the bumper and secured the plate with nuts and washers on the backside of the bumper skin.

I will update tomorrow with pictures of the installed camera (too dark now to get a good picture) as well as pictures of the the camera view on the AVIC-D3.
Edit: We got hit with several inches of snow today, so I will get the pictures once it clears up.
 

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#19 ·
I've been following your thread since the beginning. Nice write up and great pics. I just installed a Boyo VTL-400 backup camera on my RL two weeks ago.

Keep up the good work. Your attention to detail in your posts is amazing. It will help out a lot of people - giving them the confidence to do it themselves.
 
#21 ·
Mugen1,

Thanks for the compliment.

My intent was to give other folks the benefit of my research and experience. I also wanted to put as much as I could together in one thread.

I tend to do intense research whenever I do a project (the engineer in me kicks in). I enjoy doing things myself and I like things to be done just right (pucker factor). I do hope other folks will have the confidence once they see the process and the results.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Here are pictures of the camera installed and with the RL in reverse and the camera on.

The camera does very well at night with just the small amount of light from the backup lights. Everything on the field of view of the camera is clearly defined. The camera has a very wide field of view and can see fairly close to the RL. I can see everything beyond the red line. The yellow ground area I cannot see with the way the camera is adjusted now. The yellow area is the GROUND area I cannot see, if an object is higher then the yellow area would be reduced. The camera tilt can be adjusted, but I like it the way it is now.
 

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#22 ·
This thread should be a sticky.
 
#23 · (Edited)
Well I was reconsidering my planned Phase 3 to create the color matched dash install kit (#6 in my list of items).

The wife has been feeling neglected due to my attention on the RL. That is why I created a separate thread to poll my fellow ROCer's whether it would be worth the effort.

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18863

Right now it's a 100% in favor of the color matched dash kit. I will have to take some time off and enjoy time with the wife, the holidays and my new RL with Nav unit for a while.

I already have a second pocket. I will need to order another Metra dash kit and find a local place to get the SEM paint and SEM prep stuff. I probably won't start until the new year.


Note: I have updated some previous posts in this thread to reflect what I learned during install or to add pictures.
 
#24 ·
Here's my color matched dash.
 

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#25 ·
Shovelhd, the gap in your dash kit actually looks nice. It breaks up the area nicely and everything is aligned perfectly. The gap on mine was way too big, bacause of the pocket being used for the cenre channel. Sem paint does wonders for the adapter kit's appearance.
 
#26 · (Edited)
Thanks. I used a gel-type cyanoacrylate adhesive and clamped the two pieces together to match the gap. I spent about a 1/2 hour sanding the AIC kit down to remove the pebble finish to match the pocket.

Oh yea, the reason the door is slightly ajar is because the Kenwood remote is about 1mm too long to fit into the pocket. Nobody really notices it.
 
#27 ·
I keep running in circles with the stereo scenario. What I want and what I keep finding are two different things. All i want is a clean factory look with a 7" or so touch screen stereo with good sound from $1,500.00 or lower.
HELP !

ROC on Kevin
 
#28 ·
Let's keep htaddict's install thread clean. I encourage you to look through the install threads in Mobile Electronics. If you have a lot of general questions, or need help making decisions, start a new thread in Mobile Electronics with a useful title (putting your screen name in it helps). There are a lot of talented people here that have done this before and are willing to help.