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Hi everyone,
I have a 2017 Honda Ridgeline.
About a week ago, I noticed my backup camera stopped working. The lines that move with the steering wheel are still working but the picture is black. I also can't access the camera settings in the navigation system. There was a single time the other morning where it worked once but then stopped again. Seems to me like a software issue. I'm taking it in to the dealer but wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts on this before I do of it might be a simple fix.
Thank you.
 
If you search you should find some info on the camera harness failures that many people have run into. There was a TSB about it. The dealer should be able to fix it for you but some have fixed it themselves.
 
Discussion starter · #185 ·
As mentioned, the tailgate/camera wiring harness is prone to failure where it enters the tailgate on the left side. Yours may be partially damaged, thus the "sometimes" connection.

 
Jumped into my 2017 Ridgeline RTL-E started and hit reverse. Nothing shows on the camera. Eventually I had the yellow lines, but nothing from the camera. Checked SETTINGS, but the expected wordage only shows side warning off or on. What might make the camera disappear? All lenses are clean. System worked fine a few hours before. Haven’t found any missing wires, loose connections, or breakage. Anyone else have this issue, before I take it to the shop and find out that it is NOT part of my extended warranty?
 
No broken wires means you checked this harness?


I rarely get the camera not to show its image, but it's always been a SW glitch and never persisted across power cycles.

-Mike
 
Thanks! I just double checked the harness and found it cut. Looks like a really bad location at the point of the cut. Will call service and get it scheduled. Anyone know the Honda Part Numbers?
 
I own a 2017 RTL-E with 57,280 miles and I have gained a wealth of knowledge from this forum, so I wanted to make my contribution (this forum was a deciding factor in me buying a Ridgeline, no other vehicle forum is as thorough or professional; just look at other vehicle forums and compare for yourself). I put a link to a video below and try to explain what causes the damage and why the current routing of the wire will almost inevitably lead to severing the backup camera wiring. The process only took me about 30 minutes to complete and is simple yet effective.

WATCH VIDEO HERE

I explain everything in the video, but to summarize, the failure is caused by the wiring loom not having enough slack, combined with the 90° bend at the tailgate, allowing the thin metal edge of the tailgate to press directly against the wiring, especially when the tailgate is fully swung open. I inspected mine two days ago and there was definitely wear on the insulation of the wires, but luckily it had not cut through. I am certain that the wires would have become severed in the next few months if I did not take corrective/preventative action. Even those without current damage could benefit from this simple modification that prevent having to replace the wiring harness that is going to cost more money and labor (rear bumper needs to be unclipped) compared to taking action to prevent the damage. Modern conventional tailgates avoid this issue by running the wires up the center of the tailgate through a rubber grommet, but the dual action of this tailgate requires the wiring at this location. I wonder how the new Dodge Ram split tailgate routes the backup camera harness (it also has a solenoid to operate the latch.

Below is a photo of the factory configuration; unfortunately, I did not take photos of mine before I started the repair, so I had to use photos from of members Alexderaven, 17sport, and Valkrocket’s posts for visual reference.


(I labeled the orientation of the truck to provide better clarity and avoid confusion)
405473


405474


Potential Damage
405475


Materials Used:
405476


405477


Remove the tail light and disconnect the three wires plus the clip circled in red (it is a little tight) then place the cover out of the way so it does not get damaged.
405478


Use the wire cutters to remove the two cable/zip ties; one on the tailgate around the plastic 90° elbow and the one that is around the loom (and use pliers to push the other end of it in the space where the tail light cover was removed). You can see that you have plenty of slack to allow you to wrap the wires.
405479


  • I did a rough measurement of how much split loom I needed and cut a length then used a lighter to clean up any frayed edges. I wrapped it around the existing loom from where it enters the 90° plastic elbow on the tailgate all the way to where it enters the bumper If you overlap the loom and twist it in the direction you are wrapping it will slide nice and snug around the wires. I then used the loom tape to go in the same direction that I snugged the split loom. The space is tight, so I had to do this in sections, but I made sure to overlap each section (use scissors to cut the tape since it is difficult to tear by hand). I used some E6000 to help seal the last section of loom tape to ensure it will not start to peel over time.
  • Put a new cable/zip tie around the plastic elbow and put it slightly higher up on the piece of plastic than the original zip tie to create less of a stress angle for the wires. Tuck the rest of the loom into the space behind the bumper. I am not sure why Honda decided to loop it tightly and secure it to the frame. This caused the wiring to pull really tight when the door was swung open and then the thin metal edge of the tailgate pinched directly into the tightly pulled wires. Test out opening and closing the tailgate in both positions to check for rubbing or pinching of the wires. I cycled the tailgate at least 20 times in both positions and it operates without any issues.
  • I initially thought they tried to save money and used the longer wiring harness from the Honda Pilot’s backup camera, but they are two completely different parts. I wonder if 2020 owner’s have this same set-up? There is no way that Honda did not get some feedback on this and modify the existing design.
405480


  • Reinstall the tail light cover and test the operation of the tailgate again. The wiring should move a little when the tailgate swings open, but it is no longer being pinched. The loom is very well protected from any abrasion and has plenty of open space around it.
I apologize if this was too detailed of an explanation, but I wanted to be thorough. I am by no means claiming that this process is perfect, but I feel extremely confident that I will never experience a damaged harness that could potentially cause my backup camera to malfunction and create a potentially dangerous situation if I it happens while going in reverse. It only took about 30 minutes and well worth the peace of mind.
 
Good job @joal81. You kind of validate my post #69 about the harness being bunch up and binding. If people just unhook that loop and position the loop under the light fixture, that take the pressure off the cable at the tail gate and the cable will not destroy its self.
 
My local Honda Dealer provided me with their estimate to fix wiring harness to camera on my 2018 Ridgeline. At time of service, I also had a B16 service and 4W alignment done. Harness Estimate: $1,600 +. "a very labor intensive repair", "not related to engineering defect", and to "try getting fixed through my insurance company".
Advise to all: (under warranty) Get this work done the second you see or suspect breakage. Do not accept "jury-rigged" repairs like electrical tape.
Record your vehicle with NHTSA to get this known safety defect documented outside of Honda's corporate bubble.
I personally feel/hope this is an inevitable vehicle safety recall or class action lawsuit .
Image
 
I have the same issue with my 2018 the wire harness being severed at the tailgate. Called American Honda to get ZERO HELP! "we do not have a recall on this issue currently" SAD!
406254
 
Ford has a recall on there rear camera problem, but Honda doesn't have a fix for there screw up. Just replace the cable and position it as in post #69.
 
I own a 2017 RTL-E with 57,280 miles and I have gained a wealth of knowledge from this forum, so I wanted to make my contribution (this forum was a deciding factor in me buying a Ridgeline, no other vehicle forum is as thorough or professional; just look at other vehicle forums and compare for yourself). I put a link to a video below and try to explain what causes the damage and why the current routing of the wire will almost inevitably lead to severing the backup camera wiring. The process only took me about 30 minutes to complete and is simple yet effective.

WATCH VIDEO HERE

I explain everything in the video, but to summarize, the failure is caused by the wiring loom not having enough slack, combined with the 90° bend at the tailgate, allowing the thin metal edge of the tailgate to press directly against the wiring, especially when the tailgate is fully swung open. I inspected mine two days ago and there was definitely wear on the insulation of the wires, but luckily it had not cut through. I am certain that the wires would have become severed in the next few months if I did not take corrective/preventative action. Even those without current damage could benefit from this simple modification that prevent having to replace the wiring harness that is going to cost more money and labor (rear bumper needs to be unclipped) compared to taking action to prevent the damage. Modern conventional tailgates avoid this issue by running the wires up the center of the tailgate through a rubber grommet, but the dual action of this tailgate requires the wiring at this location. I wonder how the new Dodge Ram split tailgate routes the backup camera harness (it also has a solenoid to operate the latch.

Below is a photo of the factory configuration; unfortunately, I did not take photos of mine before I started the repair, so I had to use photos from of members Alexderaven, 17sport, and Valkrocket’s posts for visual reference.


(I labeled the orientation of the truck to provide better clarity and avoid confusion)
View attachment 405473

View attachment 405474

Potential Damage
View attachment 405475

Materials Used:

View attachment 405476

View attachment 405477

Remove the tail light and disconnect the three wires plus the clip circled in red (it is a little tight) then place the cover out of the way so it does not get damaged.
View attachment 405478

Use the wire cutters to remove the two cable/zip ties; one on the tailgate around the plastic 90° elbow and the one that is around the loom (and use pliers to push the other end of it in the space where the tail light cover was removed). You can see that you have plenty of slack to allow you to wrap the wires.
View attachment 405479


  • I did a rough measurement of how much split loom I needed and cut a length then used a lighter to clean up any frayed edges. I wrapped it around the existing loom from where it enters the 90° plastic elbow on the tailgate all the way to where it enters the bumper If you overlap the loom and twist it in the direction you are wrapping it will slide nice and snug around the wires. I then used the loom tape to go in the same direction that I snugged the split loom. The space is tight, so I had to do this in sections, but I made sure to overlap each section (use scissors to cut the tape since it is difficult to tear by hand). I used some E6000 to help seal the last section of loom tape to ensure it will not start to peel over time.
  • Put a new cable/zip tie around the plastic elbow and put it slightly higher up on the piece of plastic than the original zip tie to create less of a stress angle for the wires. Tuck the rest of the loom into the space behind the bumper. I am not sure why Honda decided to loop it tightly and secure it to the frame. This caused the wiring to pull really tight when the door was swung open and then the thin metal edge of the tailgate pinched directly into the tightly pulled wires. Test out opening and closing the tailgate in both positions to check for rubbing or pinching of the wires. I cycled the tailgate at least 20 times in both positions and it operates without any issues.
  • I initially thought they tried to save money and used the longer wiring harness from the Honda Pilot’s backup camera, but they are two completely different parts. I wonder if 2020 owner’s have this same set-up? There is no way that Honda did not get some feedback on this and modify the existing design.
View attachment 405480

  • Reinstall the tail light cover and test the operation of the tailgate again. The wiring should move a little when the tailgate swings open, but it is no longer being pinched. The loom is very well protected from any abrasion and has plenty of open space around it.
I apologize if this was too detailed of an explanation, but I wanted to be thorough. I am by no means claiming that this process is perfect, but I feel extremely confident that I will never experience a damaged harness that could potentially cause my backup camera to malfunction and create a potentially dangerous situation if I it happens while going in reverse. It only took about 30 minutes and well worth the peace of mind.
Exceptional post! This gives me everything I need to do a proactive field engineering fix 🤣 ! I ordered the loom and tape tonight. Thanks!
 
Jumped into my 2017 Ridgeline RTL-E started and hit reverse. Nothing shows on the camera. Eventually I had the yellow lines, but nothing from the camera. Checked SETTINGS, but the expected wordage only shows side warning off or on. What might make the camera disappear? All lenses are clean. System worked fine a few hours before. Haven’t found any missing wires, loose connections, or breakage. Anyone else have this issue, before I take it to the shop and find out that it is NOT part of my extended warranty?
Yes exact same here, and researched to learn this is a COMMON problem with the wiring for the camera in the Ridgeline, called Honda, and NO HELP. NO RECALL. Safety first huh Honda??? My wires are completely severed, and while I hope to be able to repair them myself, and not spend $400 people want to fix it. Appreciate the detailed videos and suggestions posted here below. Recommend all call Honda to proceed with actually recalling this too!
 
I recommend that anyone with this problem file a complaint with the NHTSA.

  • ALL complaints are reviewed.
  • Some complaints may lead to an investigation.
  • Some investigations lead to recalls.

 
I recommend that anyone with this problem file a complaint with the NHTSA.

  • ALL complaints are reviewed.
  • Some complaints may lead to an investigation.
  • Some investigations lead to recalls.
Yes just did this too! THanks
 
I recommend that anyone with this problem file a complaint with the NHTSA.

  • ALL complaints are reviewed.
  • Some complaints may lead to an investigation.
  • Some investigations lead to recalls.

Thanks for the link, filed complaint. My 2018 was showing signs of wear in the harness when I bought it in December last year(22,000 mi.) and failed totally late last month at around 50,000. One of the previous owners had install the Pop&Lock so I don't know if that had anything to do with it but I bet the dealer will think so. I have the HondaCare extended warranty but it would be a major PITA to lose a day of work, not to mention haggling with the service writer.

406420


How hard is it to replace the harness yourself? I've seen the instructions for the Pop&Lock install and getting to the inside of the tailgate seems relatively easy Does the bumper cover have to come off and, if so, how much work is that? I can buy the harness from Bernardi for around $70, if it's a doable install for a Sunday afternoon I'd just as soon do it myself. Any instructions out there?

Thanks, guys!
Best,
Bill
 
One of the previous owners had install the Pop&Lock so I don't know if that had anything to do with it but I bet the dealer will think so.
It does look plausible with the extra cable possibly adding strain to the camera cabling. I'd say it's easily as likely or more likely that it would have failed anyway, but I'd probably look at fixing it myself as well, most likely by repairing the existing wires as others have done. Heat shrink and solder is a very solid fix. Then just protect it well so it doesn't break again.
 
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