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This baby works! USA-made and it "feels" like it - hardened steel, heavy and strong.
Those teeth are razor sharp and will grip onto an oily filter case like a great white shark.
Comes in two size ranges for various applications. Use with a 3/8 socket wrench.
Runs between $18-$21. Made by MotivX, which has a whole line of oil-change specialty tools.

Yes, I may sound overly enthusiastic about this (after all, its only an oil filter wrench for Pete's sake) but I already have a zillion others - all shapes, sizes, features - and finally found one that does the job right.
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(There are already a number of other filter-wrench threads, so if this was already posted just consider this an upvote.)
 
This baby works! USA-made and it "feels" like it - hardened steel, heavy and strong. Those teeth are razor sharp and will grip onto an oily filter case like a great white shark. Comes in two size ranges for various applications. Use with a 3/8 socket wrench.
I have a similar one that I couldn't get to fit on my Ridgeline. I could get the filter tool itself attached to the filter, but I couldn't get the clearance I needed to attach the socket wrench to it. That's why I ended up resorting to my Chanellocks, which did the job so simply and well I figured there's no point in buying a specialty tool!
 
This baby works! USA-made and it "feels" like it - hardened steel, heavy and strong.
Comes in two size ranges for various applications. Use with a 3/8 socket wrench.
Agree with SeattleR.

I have something very similar and it wouldn't work on the Ridgeline.
There wasn't enough space to fit this and the ratchet onto the bottom of the filter.

Have you used this on the Ridgeline? Are you using a standard size OEM filter?
 
I have been changing oil on cars for 40 years. The oil filter only needs to be on hand tight. (Tighten by hand, it comes off by hand)
I agree 100%!
Always... make sure the seal from the old filter is NOT stuck on the engine.
Always... put a little oil on the seal of the new filter. The old oil is fine for this.
Always... hand tighten only. never never never use a wrench.
 
I agree 100%!
Always... make sure the seal from the old filter is NOT stuck on the engine.
Always... put a little oil on the seal of the new filter. The old oil is fine for this.
Always... hand tighten only. never never never use a wrench.
I do this same procedure every time I change the oil...but it does NOT mean the filter will just spin off by hand at the next oil change.
I only hand tighten, but nearly always need mechanical leverage to break the filter loose.

Over the course of ~7,500 miles, the filter is exposed to hundreds of heating/cooling cycles and varying weather (rain, snow, salt, ect), which can prevent the filter from easily spinning off.
 
I had to drive a screw driver thru one years ago on my old RL. Never figured out what I did wrong, still a gasket lube and hand tight or let the dealer do it.
I had to do the same thing on my very first Ridgeline oil change.
The oil filter was put on so tight from the factory that it wouldn't budge, and none of the 3 types of filter wrenches I had at the time would work (due to almost zero clearance under the filter).
 
What I'd like to do is a remote location so the oil doesn't run all over and collect inside the frame and drip for several days
Use the ziplock bag trick and you won't have to deal with any of that mess.
I picked up the idea from this forum and it works great. Absolutely zero mess when removing the oil filter.

Just put a gallon ziplock bag around the oil filter, pulling the bag as far up as you can, before removing the filter.
 
Yes, my gripe isn't getting the oil filter off, it's the mess along the subframe, etc. when taking it off. There's a lot of wiping off to do!
Once you have the filter loose (after 1/2 turn), just put a Ziploc bag over it and screw it off by hand. You'll have zero mess to clean up!
 
I also used the Motivx oil funnel along with the extender. It worked great. As far as oil spills, I kept them to a minimum with the Honda drain deflector. Mine is red. Everything worked out fine, but I did notice all of the lug nuts were rusted, as I expected they would be, based upon other reports.

Sources for the oil deflector and the MotivX funnel


 

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Thanks. Even 1/2 turn was hard to do by hand, hence the mechanical advantage. Will be interesting to see what others have to say.
So... this might come down to the definition of contact. I turn the filter 3/4 after 'contact', which to me is just barely touching. So like when I spin it on, as soon as it does not spin freely on, and there is a tiniest resistance to turning on further, with ONE finger on the filter providing the force, I consider that being contact. I typically use a Purolator filter, and with that definition of contact, I can fairly easily turn it another 3/4 of a turn. To remove the filter... if I'm wearing grippy gloves, I can often take it off by hand 10k later. And by no means am I strong... I'm a 5' 2" female... who is notorious for not tightening things and being unable to open jars without tools. I make sure the new filter gasket has plenty of oil and I've yet to have a leak. knock on wood.

That said, we do have big channel locks, a few oil cap wrenches, and strap type wrench just in case.
 
Interestingly, the FSM specifies a torque rating for the Oil Filter. For the G1 it is 12Nm or about 9-ftlbs. This also happens to be the same torque for the G3 TL and the 'Crosstrour.
Since the same filter is used for the J35/J37 engines, the G2 Ridgeline would not be different.
 
I did the first oil change on my Ridgeline just yesterday. I used the ziplock bag trick and it worked quite well. No mess at all. The one thing that took me a couple of turns to figure out was how to get the bag to make it all the way around the housing without slipping downward. Once I had that sorted it was only about a thousand turns later and everything was off in the bag with no drips.

I do wonder though if there is a special tool or something people use to remove the recessed clips that hold the plastic cover behind the wheel. That was the only real pain in the rump part of the experience. I did have to use a strap wrench on the overly tight factory filter, but that won't be a problem going forward. I will pick up a taller funnel for next time. It was a bit tricky not making a mess on the refill with my regular sized funnel.
 
I've used the 3 below on my Honda's. The right one in photo is Performance Tool 65mm cap wrench # W54117. It worked great in my Accords and cupped the Honda filter nicely - but there's not enough clearance (with a ratchet) to use in our Ridgelines because of the frame clearance.

So for my G2 I went to my "old reliable" stainless steel strap wrench in photo center (made in USA, but no brand logo). That works fine in my Ridgeline - but the only issue with strap wrenches is that their geometry changes as you turn it, so your ratchet & extension bar can start to hit frame members. So you have to loosen and regrip it once or twice to get the filter fully loose - that's a minor inconvenience but not a deal breaker.

Then I bought the "official" Honda wrench on the left of photo # 07AAA-PLCA100, and used it with a low profile 17mm folding ratchet. The issue I was having with this was the Honda 15400-PLM-A02 OEM filters fit really tight (you could barely fit the cup onto the top of the filter). It would stick, and you'd have to bang the wrench cup off, thus (a) splattering hot oil as you did that, and (b) that precluded fitting this over the 1qt plastic bag trick. When I mic'd its interior dimension, it averaged 64.2mm (whereas the Performance tool averaged 64.7mm). That explained why the Honda was so tight - it needs to have a slightly larger inside dimension... 65mm would be ideal. I don't know if I got an undersized wrench combined with oversized filters - they're all genuine Honda parts (purchased from dealer parts counter), but that's what I'm seeing.

So now I'm back to using my "old reliable" stainless strap wrench. I don't know why this is so hard, to get a simple wrench to do a maintenance chore unchanged for almost the last 100 years.

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I know what you mean about the thousand turns :). I don't remove any clips at all - the filter is accessible enough from the left hand side of the plastic cover without removing it.
I'm hoping now that the filter is just hand tight I'll be able to do that next time, but I'm not sure I can get the ziploc bag trick to work so well with it in the way. I also don't lift the vehicle at all, so that may play a role as well.
 
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