Hello, I am a 2010 Ridgeline owner with 305,000 Miles. I am in the process of upgrading. I am looking for advice in buying a 2017 Ridgeline as i have seen many for sale and the price is not bad. I have read that there are a few issue with this model. Especially the transmission. If there are any or pervious 2017 owners that could help me on this it would greatly be appreciated.
Rj 2010 Ridgeline
The one to be concerned about is the fuel injectors. That one probably has the highest probability of being a problem. There is a warranty extension if they haven't been replaced but a 17 is long in the tooth now so if they have been replaced with the new part number ending in 315 that would be good. Stay away from a vin less than 13,000th, I'm leaving a little margin there) built because of the wiring harness. There's also the minor issue of the capless fuel not having that shroud to prevent freezing. I would look over any example you would buy with a fine tooth comb. Check the wiring harness by the left side of the tailgate to see if it's frayed. I think this can happen on all Ridgelines just make sure the one you are buying is ok. Headlights will suck unless you go for an E/BE which are better than the ones with the new nose. Then there is the 6 speed. It's easy to service but has a tendency to overheat when towing and the forum has quite a few cases of 6 speed transmission replacements. It doesn't like heat and its a good idea to drain and fill it every 30k or less. There are also plenty of 6 speeds with no issues. I found the brake pedal to be mushy, that seems to be normal. Then there is the fit and finish, hit or miss so again check your specific example. Also, run the vin through the Honda website and the NHTSA websites for reference. There were some other small recalls but those should come up with the vin# check.
Good luck.
Good luck.
This is by far the best thing you can do when shopping used. There is a ton of variation in the initial vehicles and how their owners have treated them since new.
That said, I am at 115k miles on my completely stock 2017 RTL, just following the MM and doing our own maintenance short of the timing belt/water pump/valve adjust. It's the first vehicle I've bought/owned, a great daily driver and a fun weekend warrior. No regrets or buyers remorse here! And that's even with how I had the tranny judder issue at ~90k fixed by 3x DF (only had ONE DF as per MM when the issue started) and injectors were replaced ~100k under warranty. Since the tranny judder, have decided to do a DF once every 30k. I get in and drive it every day and it brings a smile to my face. But seeing as I'm 5'2", if you were standing in front of the vehicle, I'm told that all you see are my eyes peeking over the steering wheel. LOL
Good luck on your search!
I would not get any of the ones with the six speed transmission so 2020 or newer if your going to keep for a while. I might be a bit salty though 4 window failures, transmission surging/slipping, backup camera wiring harness and camera, paint failure, and last but not least PCM and gauge cluster failure at 49 months and 45k miles.
Chris
Chris
I had a 2017 from new until this past November. I had to do the fuel injector replacement fairly early on. That cost me a bunch in its own right and cost me even more in misdiagnosis before figuring it out. And then my transmission shit the bed at 75k miles. Which effectively cost me $6k - $10k depending on how I look at it.
So i loved a lot about that truck, but it's issues were quite costly.
So i loved a lot about that truck, but it's issues were quite costly.
You have 300k miles on a 2017? More power to you, I'd go crazy driving 60,000 miles a year!
Edit: nevermind, I see you're talking about your 2010. But yeah, that's why this is a valid question about the tranny in t he e 2017s.
Edit: nevermind, I see you're talking about your 2010. But yeah, that's why this is a valid question about the tranny in t he e 2017s.
Sorry I should have put that it was a 2010. I really want to stick with the Ridgeline. I am doing my research. So all the help I can get will be helpful in my decision.
I just traded my 2017 in Nov for the 2022. In pure honesty, I like the '17 better. I would not hesitate to buy it if it were a later VIN stamp. The six speed is so much better (for me anyway). I get 1 mpg less on the 2022 and the shifting stinks when aggressive. Visibility past the hood better on the '17. There are a few nice superficial improvements on the 2021/2022, but if you can find a nice deal, low mileage on a '17, I would absolutely snag it. Probably 2018 would be better to get past early model issues though (shrug).
I bought a 2017 used CPO Rigi 22 months ago. It’s been very satisfactory. Been back to the shop once for two issues….replace start/stop button and a leaking CVJ boot, both under warranty.
Wifey said…….WTF, another p/u? Went to dinner that evening and she said dayum, you finally got it right.👍
Wifey said…….WTF, another p/u? Went to dinner that evening and she said dayum, you finally got it right.👍
I've got just under 69k on my '17 RTS, and must've got a Wednesday truck...
. Had the fuel pump cover installed, wiring harness replaced, both recall/warranty work; paid part of bill for injector replacement then was reimbursed by Honda for warranty extension. Everything has been trouble free since; paying close attention to transmission fluid changes, doing all fluid changes at or slightly before recommended mileage. I really don't have a complaint and am extremely happy with my Ridgeline!
. Had the fuel pump cover installed, wiring harness replaced, both recall/warranty work; paid part of bill for injector replacement then was reimbursed by Honda for warranty extension. Everything has been trouble free since; paying close attention to transmission fluid changes, doing all fluid changes at or slightly before recommended mileage. I really don't have a complaint and am extremely happy with my Ridgeline!I have a 2017 ridgeline 153k miles, injectors replaced (92k) , VCM added, capless fuel filler replace. Tranny has been find for the most part i just replace DW1 ever 20k-30k miles since it the ATf isn't as robust as full synthetic
So far I love my ridgeline but here are things to note there is little aftermarket, when I replaced the suspension I had to do OEM which on top of being expensive for what it is also isn't assembled. Weird stuff with wind, from wind buffering to general honda seals not being great. I would avoid the Black edition the "paint" on some of the trim is actually vinyl and its starting to bubble up.
Brakes are just ok, I recommend replacing
Other than that a comfortable ride, with is issue here and there but the architecture has been around long enough mechanic have most of it figured out
So far I love my ridgeline but here are things to note there is little aftermarket, when I replaced the suspension I had to do OEM which on top of being expensive for what it is also isn't assembled. Weird stuff with wind, from wind buffering to general honda seals not being great. I would avoid the Black edition the "paint" on some of the trim is actually vinyl and its starting to bubble up.
Brakes are just ok, I recommend replacing
Other than that a comfortable ride, with is issue here and there but the architecture has been around long enough mechanic have most of it figured out
I’m a 2017 owner since new. Mine was built after the wiring harness flaw was exposed and I purchased it at the end of December 2016. It’s also a relatively low mileage (30k now) and that was mostly long distance trips. Mechanically it’s been uneventful, finishing is good, body fit/assembly precision is substandard based on other Hondas I’ve owned, and had the mid-body water leak problem.
Maybe the water leak soured my ownership experience so much that my opinion is tainted, but that mid-body water situation should be your main concern. My own troubleshooting exposed several water management related concerns. The fuel pump (that required a recall to install a cover) is in a deep recess on the top of the fuel tank to where it’s under water. In theory that should not leak water into the fuel system, but ever wonder why fuel injector failure is common? That main wire harness connection that failed me in early builds is in the flood zone. The inner mechanic in me is seeing a lot of design concerns that are covered out of view.
The first thing I would check if buying a used RL is that rear seat. Pull the plastic panels and get your nose into the openings. Any smells of mildew, just walk away. Owners under full factory warranty have a difficult time getting this fixed, not a chance a used buyer can get this done correctly. Now mine is sealed & dry, but I disinfected the carpet & padding so heavy to kill the mildew that it has a permanent background soapy odor. It’s much more pleasant than the mildew, but noticeable that something is different.
Overall I still like my corrected RL. However, the risk of buying another leaker has me not trading up.
Maybe the water leak soured my ownership experience so much that my opinion is tainted, but that mid-body water situation should be your main concern. My own troubleshooting exposed several water management related concerns. The fuel pump (that required a recall to install a cover) is in a deep recess on the top of the fuel tank to where it’s under water. In theory that should not leak water into the fuel system, but ever wonder why fuel injector failure is common? That main wire harness connection that failed me in early builds is in the flood zone. The inner mechanic in me is seeing a lot of design concerns that are covered out of view.
The first thing I would check if buying a used RL is that rear seat. Pull the plastic panels and get your nose into the openings. Any smells of mildew, just walk away. Owners under full factory warranty have a difficult time getting this fixed, not a chance a used buyer can get this done correctly. Now mine is sealed & dry, but I disinfected the carpet & padding so heavy to kill the mildew that it has a permanent background soapy odor. It’s much more pleasant than the mildew, but noticeable that something is different.
Overall I still like my corrected RL. However, the risk of buying another leaker has me not trading up.
Just traded, three days ago, my 17 RTL-E with 73k for a new 22 RTL-E. No issues at all with my 17 that weren't covered under warranty. Best truck I ever owned. Changed tranny and diff fluid every 15k, not hard to do and cheap insurance, never a problem and 28-30 mpg on the highway. Only reason I grabbed the 22 was the high value of my trade. I would not hesitate to by a used 17 after checking that the common issues such as rear harness and fuel injectors were done.
I bought an '18 RTL-E certified RL in early March that turned out to have a congenital computer/electrical issue that Honda dealers and Honda USA were unable to solve--and yet left on the market. Luckily the dealer I bought from stood behind the deal and helped me get into a brand new 22 RTL at a good price. I'm LOVING the '22 RL. If buying used, I would try to go for a '20 or more recent, as they have the updated transmission.
It sounds like you drive alot. Personally I would get a 2021+. The redesigned front end looks so good compared to the 2020 and older, newer lower miles would be better for you, and has the 9 speed trans.
I bought a 2017 BE and I personally prefer the look of the 2021+ models. My reasoning was that I was able to get a certified Black Edition, which I wanted a RTL-E or Black Edition, for cheaper than a base model 2021+ which I wouldn’t have been happy with. The trucks are so similar, especially on the interior minus the volume knob and push button shifter, which I prefer the real shifter. I dislike the auto start stop on the newer models as well. I didn’t think it was worth it for the updated exterior, which I can’t see when I’m driving it. I would recommend certified for a warranty of course.
I just found a 2017 Honda true certified at Hoffman Honda in Conn. 39k for milage, just over 30k for price It's a sport model, looks like it was originally sold by them when new and service was done by them. Carfax looks okay, vin shows no recalls that haven't been addressed. Is the Honda certified program any good, the 7/70 just a selling point but hard to really get things repaired? With all the reading I've done here the 2017 model year seems hit or miss. The price seems reasonable by today's prices which has me interested. Any thoughts.
Its looking like the used car market is starting to soften. Unless there’s a pressing need, I’d wait awhile. $30K is a lot of money for a 5 or 6 yr old RL Sport. The 7/70 warranty ends 7 years from the original in service date. That could mean you may only have 1 year remaining on the warranty.
Yes, it is crazy money for used. The only reason I'm considering is the dealer will give me pretty much what I paid for my Ram eight years ago. He has a buyer that wants a cummins turbo diesel for a tow vehicle. My son, an import mechanic and wife both are saying grab a Santa Cruz, new, for the same money. I've only put about 3k on the Ram per year for the last several years, only tow a pontoon boat down to the water and back once a year and two of my boys have newer pick-ups I could use for that, seeing they don't put gas in the boat. The issues I've read about the 2017's concern me also. patience.
I looked at a 2014 two days ago, 67k for miles and mint condition, they were asking 24,999$. Thats nuts, maybe I should consider the Hyundai, I have two small sailboats I launch and retrieve, both are under 1000lbs and any mulch, loam etc. I usually load in my trailer because it's easier to shovel out.
So, the inevitable happened, we test drove a Hyundai Santa Cruz, wow! Put a deposit on one, take delivery early September. What happened first was I looked at a 2021 rl and it looked just like my current truck only smaller, same color same cap, so, it hit me, if I was going to get something like my current truck only smaller why not keep what I have. I get better milage than the rl, tow more than the rl, more room than the rl. The Hyundai is different, but will fit my current needs, for more truck like needs, I have two sons with 1/2 tons, easy peasy. So here I go, first new vehicle since 1979 when I bought a new full time 4wd power wagon. Whish me luck, but I still eyeball rl's when they pass by.
Yeah, warranty, price new, drive experience was impressive, also, I went to several Honda dealerships, and they really didn't even care to talk to us. Wouldn't come out of the showroom, Hyundai dealer fell all over us, want water, juice, soda, here's a bunch of snacks, help yourself, paid msrp, no markup, has called us with updates at home a couple times, if that service continues, I'm happy. Plus, in "person" it's a sharp ride.
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