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... high beam is always on as DRL. Being it's daytime a brighter LED shouldn't cause any problem unless extremely bright. But what would constitute "extremely bright", has anyone with a Sport or RTL noticed this as a problem? ...
If you install appropriate bulbs they operate in a lower intensity mode when running as a DRL, so your concern isn't an issue (i.e. they are not too bright).

If you installed bulbs that don't operate in a lower intensity mode then they will be too bright and therefore shouldn't be installed.

So just buy bulbs that will operate as a DRL and you'll be fine. There are plenty to chose from.
 
Man I am confused. I have a 2023 BE. What is a good choice for me?
Your DRLs are not part of your high-beams so don't have this issue. If you want to switch to LEDs, you only need to make sure they are 9005s.
Good information I didn't realize high beam 9005 bulbs operate at a lower lumen in DRL mode. I'll try to research what 9005 LED replacements do this before buying.
One option for $51. Free returns if any issues.
 
Ive put led’s in my 23’ Imridgeline.
Diode Dynamics brand but theres a lot of good brands like Morimoto.
Focused beam and metal vs plastic body are differences I see between cheaper and more premium bulbs.
You will like the difference and your auto high beam will work better for some reason.


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So I installed the LED high beams. What a difference that makes, almost unbelievable. And you are 100% correct, for whatever reason my auto high beam definitely comes on and stays on better, I need a little more time to make sure they’re going to do dim accordingly for oncoming traffic, I hope they do or they will be blinded for sure! Lol
 
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I would also recommend purchasing one of these :


That way when you remove the intake manifold you can connect this to your negative battery wire that is attached to the frame. This way you have a connection point for the negative so if you ever have to jump your car or help someone, you don't have to worry about taking the manifold off! You have access to the positive but for some reason Honda decided to bury the negative - pretty dumb. Easy fix though!

Watch from 1:46-2:45 as he gives a good explanation
 
I would also recommend purchasing one of these :


That way when you remove the intake manifold you can connect this to your negative battery wire that is attached to the frame. This way you have a connection point for the negative so if you ever have to jump your car or help someone, you don't have to worry about taking the manifold off! You have access to the positive but for some reason Honda decided to bury the negative - pretty dumb. Easy fix though!

Watch from 1:46-2:45 as he gives a good explanation
I'll do you one better and easier: Click me!
 
I saw that but that really only works if you need a jump. This way allows you to better be able to jump a vehicle as you are supposed to connect directly to the negative terminal of the battery when jumping another car.
Explain to me how a chassis ground (which I linked to) is any different from the negative terminal on the battery which connects to the chassis. Makes zero difference where you connect a negative lead to jump or receive a jump as both points are electrically the same.
 
I have always been told that if you are not directly connected to the negative terminal on the battery, you will not transmit the same level of current which could either make the jump fail or be weaker? I could have been told wrong but that has always been what I have done, right or wrong.
 
I’m thinking of some middle of the road Sylvania LEDs for around $100. I worry about the longevity of the less expensive Amazon bulbs and $200 seems rather steep for the boutique brands.
 
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