Just ordered a printer, hope to contribute. I was going to get the Bambu A1 Mini to learn. But I decided to spend more (probably not wise).

 

I've found digital calipers to be very handy for 3d printing. For critical fit items you can measure the dims that the part came out, then figure it as a percentage of what you wanted the dim to be, then adjust your model by that many percent. Viola', perfect fits.

 

That will turn into a puddle in the summer heat if it's PLA. Something like ASA will be a better option if you can print it.

 

PETG would likely survive. ASA is ideal, but super stinky to print

 

Or PETG

 

Disappointed in the 3d printed options on thingiverse. I see the arm rest organizer and the hitch cap, I lack the skill to design, so it's a me problem.

 

what are you trying to design?

 

I want to try this one next - I know it says it's for an Insight , but I imagine it will work just as well on an RL.

Honda Insight Key Fob Cover by vykarius

This key fob cover is designed specifically for the 2020 Honda Insight. I cannot guarantee it will fit any other Honda model or year. So printer beware!This is my take on a car key fob cover that does a few things:Protects the key fob. Well... kindaDoesn't/Can't fall off the key fob!Prevents you...

www.thingiverse.com

 

I have the free version of Fusion 360 and have not had much of a chance to really dig into it. I cut my teeth on tinkercad online, which is what I have designed the few models I have done myself on. It works ok, but definitely not the best out there.

 

Don't bother with anything but the free version of Fusion 360. The only limitation it has is a limit on the number of "editable" files you can have - but that's easy, just mark files you don't want to mess with as offline or whatever the setting is and move on. There are some excellent youtube tutorials for it.

 

Since last posting here, I built a new printer (Prusa MK4S), and learned some more Fusion 360 modeling. Today I made my own version of the underseat cargo hooks. Still a work in progress, but I'm pretty tickled with it so far.

https://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/posts/3411899/

 

More examples - working on getting the STL's uploaded - https://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/posts/3411977/

https://www.printables.com/model/1044933-utility-hook-fits-honda-ridgeline-2017

 

Today I made the screw cap cover, since it retails for $150!

https://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/threads/151-63-for-a-plastic-piece-the-size-of-a-quarter.242510/#replies

https://www.printables.com/model/1132043-lower-cover-cap-fits-honda-ridgeline-2017

 

I do t see the screw holes for this On my 2019 rtl-e. I see a few plugs, are they perhaps under that?

 

Yep - exactly!

https://www.collegehillshonda.com/instructions/ridgeline/2024/cargohooks.pdf

 

Are there any (small) accessories/parts for your G2 Ridgeline that you've conceived that can be CAD-designed and 3D printed? Let me know and I will give it a go!

No charge (except shipping cost if you want me to ship the resulting product to you), just a geek with time on my hands. Edit: Maybe I can print & ship one or two

I'll share the printable design file (STL or 3MF) with everyone, so you can 3D-print it yourself. The only caveat is that I have the needed vehicle (i.e. it fits the 2020 Ridgeline RTL-E that I own) from which to take measurements.

 

Are there any (small) accessories/parts for your G2 Ridgeline that you've conceived that can be CAD-designed and 3D printed? Let me know and I will give it a go! No charge (except shipping cost if you want me to ship the resulting product to you), just a geek with time on my hands. I'll share the printable design file (STL or 3MF) with everyone, so you can 3D-print it yourself. The only caveat is that I have the needed vehicle (i.e. it fits the 2020 Ridgeline RTL-E that I own) from which to take measurements.

I've been thinking about a 3D printed version of the park release tool for the 9 speed transmission (on Ridgelines starting with MY 2020). There is a rounded rectangular threaded post on the 9 speed transmissions that allows shifting out of park in the event of a dead battery or inability to start the engine (the control system can't shift from park unless the engine is running). I believe this is a spring-loaded post, so the tool has to hold it in place. The part retails for over $200 from Honda - I feel like this is an interesting challenge to design a 3D printed part that would do the same thing.

07AAA-TZ3A100 - Genuine Honda Lock Release

HondaPartsNow.com offers the great deal for genuine Honda parts, 07AAATZ3A100. Lock Release. All parts are backed by the Honda's warranty.

www.hondapartsnow.com

Instructions on its use: https://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/attachments/ahm-inoperative-vehicle-procedures-pdf.413568/

I believe the threaded stud is M8x1, but some people just use a shock absorber socket - maybe this could be incorporated into a 3D printed design.

There is some discussion here on the passport forum, which uses the same tool

https://www.passportforums.com/threads/wanted-dimensions-for-diy-project-honda-park-lock-release-tool.8349/

I've started modeling a concept, but am still mulling over just how to do it.

 

Well, yes, LOL. I bought a aftermarket tray on Amazon for the cubby in the dash below the ac controls, butnit fits too tight and isn’t designed very well as far as the way it works and looks. It’s too tight and the coin part sticks out. It’d be better if the whole thing slid in easily to the compartment. https://www.amazon.com/HIRUFAIT-Org...&qid=1729168299&sprefix=cubby+tray+for+2019+honda+ridgeline,aps,100&sr=8-1&th=1

 

Well, yes, LOL. I bought a aftermarket tray on Amazon for the cubby in the dash below the ac controls, butnit fits too tight and isn’t designed very well as far as the way it works and looks. It’s too tight and the coin part sticks out. It’d be better if the whole thing slid in easily to the compartment. https://www.amazon.com/HIRUFAIT-Organizer-2016-2022-Ridgeline-Accessories/dp/B0CBQ1S4G8/ref=sr_1_1?crid=29UDR2RF2AJAH&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.5zkxJcAzPXEQ5M88Kvc-rlQmD2qS_akGaxhqD4E3ryVlin8Vq2QOE4OACg58YDMWC81w_nX9f76VrCxlpqLUNZoWiz7G9ZcsCUFXgoLMlfJhSF_UcX57jFU2PhHu8dPm_e3bWIKRVOp3MbnXHZnhG_jTcZrjuey6RIyGWekiZvG9UySIhwVxg2uj-KOIOTTxU6rOQZMCS6lj-A2K9iyS44Sy6bIx7tiR6NNzGjGb2uo.G-QB6pDby99JE85QxEffqT8xniIjqPAaFDjnKJ5Eh4o&dib_tag=se&keywords=cubby+Tray+for+2019+Honda+ridgeline&qid=1729168299&sprefix=cubby+tray+for+2019+honda+ridgeline,aps,100&sr=8-1&th=1

That's a great idea! Are you wanting the face of the insert to be flush with the dash? Something like this?

Edit: I drew this up this evening, and need to drop the coin slot down or stack the coins vertically, there's currently no room for the top of the coins to slide into the cubby here...

 

Another discussion about this tool, with some home-made solutions:

https://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/posts/3184671/

 

This version makes proper room for the coins and eliminates the need for a pull (still flush with the dash).

 

I made a really simple version a while back and drilled a hole after and added a small handle, fits flush:

 

That's a great idea! Are you wanting the face of the insert to be flush with the dash? Something like this?

Edit: I drew this up this evening, and need to drop the coin slot down or stack the coins vertically, there's currently no room for the top of the coins to slide into the cubby here...


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I've never found a good use for the cubby hole below the HVAC controls, but I'd be interested in a simple drawer that sits flush with the dash. I would be interested in a simple box without a coin slot or divider, one that I could easily line with felt or rubber so items in the drawer don't rattle or slide around.

 

I assume the M8-1 nut is to hold the lever down in place so it doesn't pop off. But I don't see how the OEM tool is held in place, it does not appear to use the threads on the stem?

Right, the OEM tool does not use the threads, it just slides over the post. It seems to be held in place by weight, and the spring tension of the tool when engaged. I think the threads are provided on the post by ZF, the transmission manufacturer, so that the vehicle OEM could attach a release cable with the nut. Honda doesn't do this, instead, they offer the release tool.

Care to share your thoughts and maybe the design you've come up with so far?

I agree with the temp concerns in the engine bay, though the use of this tool would most likely only be for a few minutes, and I was thinking of increasing some bulk in the printed part for strength and thermal mass. I agree with PETG or ABS for the final version.

Here's the concept I've started that mimics the Honda mechanism, which consists of at least two parts - a handle for turning, and a base that slides over the transmission casting for a base. I added a hole in the base, for something like a pin to hold the handle in the released position.

Concerned about using the printed part to turn the metal post, I did some research on similar tools, and acquired a Lisle 20400 Shock Absorber Tool for about $15. If the oblong hole fits the park release post, I was thinking of adapting the handle in my design to have a hexagonal hole to accept the metal part, which would take most of the stress. I think a large enough handle around the hexagonal shaft could be made strong enough for the application. Then it's just a matter of devising a way to hold the handle in the released position.

 

Here's the concept I've started that mimics the Honda mechanism, which consists of at least two parts - a handle for turning, and a base that slides over the transmission casting for a base. I added a hole in the base, for something like a pin to hold the handle in the released position.

View attachment 458119 View attachment 458120

You've put a lot of effort into this, impressive! I am wracking my brain trying to resolve how to lock the release. Perhaps a way to raise, rotate, then lower lobe as it turns the slotted tool. The lobe would have a protrusion and drop into the small hole on your design. Better if it's all held in place using the threads on the park-lock shaft. I'll have to think on it...

 

I simplified to just a flush tray, no compartments. Took a little extra time for angles, it isn't just a square box. I can't think of a way to prevent it from simply coming out of the cavity, would be nice if it had a stop of some kind to prevent that. It needs a couple of tweaks yet (i.e. thicker walls, an enlarged pull, and make it easier to slide in place). Suggestions on compartments? After tweaking I can attach the STL file if anyone is interested in printing it for themselves.

As for a coin holder, I printed a coin holder separately that sits in the center console tray, found at Honda Ridgeline 2017-2020 coin holder for center console tray by malenurseman.

 

I can't think of a way to prevent it from simply coming out of the cavity, would be nice if it had a stop of some kind to prevent that. It needs a couple of tweaks yet (i.e. thicker walls, an enlarged pull, and make it easier to slide in place). Suggestions on compartments? After tweaking I can attach the STL file if anyone is interested in printing it for themselves.

As for a coin holder, I printed a coin holder separately that sits in the center console tray, found at Honda Ridgeline 2017-2020 coin holder for center console tray by malenurseman.

Mine if purely friction fit and doesn't slide out on it's own. Checking my file it's 36mm tall.

 

I settled on creating two versions of the cubby tray/drawer, both are flush with the dash (except for the pull).
The first is just a tray with no dividers as coolbob requested, the second has the coin tray as Jalexandermsgt requested (it also has a compartment beside it).

Models have been posted on Printables for downloading and printing at Honda Ridgeline Cubby Tray Drawer by Frank M | Download free STL model | Printables.com

 

I settled on creating two versions of the cubby tray/drawer, both are flush with the dash (except for the pull).
The first is just a tray with no dividers as coolbob requested, the second has the coin tray as Jalexandermsgt requested (it also has a compartment beside it).

Models have been posted on Printables for downloading and printing at Honda Ridgeline Cubby Tray Drawer by Frank M | Download free STL model | Printables.com

Printed this out last night, fits great! Thanks for designing it.

 

That is awesome, frank3246! Thank you. Now to find someone that can print it…

 

Thank you @frank3246!

I've been tempted to get a 3D printer, but I'd be hard pressed to find a place to set it up. Would you care to give me a quote for printing the plain drawer and shipping it to zip code 38655?

 

might this work?

Yes, I think that could work - I don't know what the total angle of rotation is to engage the neutral mode. Very clever idea with the sprocket!

One addition I'd suggest is adding a wall to the top of the sprocket so that it can "bottom out" on the base (i.e. not fall below the top of the base) and add some knurling or a knob on the outer edge to help lifting it back out. Or even a handle on the sprocket with some leverage that could turn the lisle socket by hand. This would eliminate the need for the second tool (wrench or socket) if it can be made strong enough.

I'd be willing to print one as shown and try it out - thanks for spending some time on this!

Then the post should be set to Neutral and locked in place. I just need to know the OD/size of the Shock Sprocket (we'll use only the metal sleeve from your picture) to finish the design. Is it 1/2"? 13mm?

Yes - 1/2 inch. I took a few measurements with a micrometer and it is nominal 0.500 with a range between 0.499" and 0.506"

 

Yes, I think that could work - I don't know what the total angle of rotation is to engage the neutral mode. Very clever idea with the sprocket!

Thanks! I need to determine how much force is required to rotate the pin. Mine won't rotate even with some force while in park, vehicle off, which I believe are the conditions under which the park-lock device is designed to operate. Need to test more.

One addition I'd suggest is adding a wall to the top of the sprocket so that it can "bottom out" on the base (i.e. not fall below the top of the base) and add some knurling or a knob on the outer edge to help lifting it back out.

If I'm understanding your suggestion... The sprocket is designed to rest against the base of the pin mount (flat spot on the transmission), that's why the legs are so short on the base part - so the base (and the sprocket) rest on top of the mount (on the transmission) as well as the base hugging the sides of the mount. No need to stand off, and no possibility of the sprocket falling though. (I also have a design with an embedded M8-1 in the bottom of the sprocket to screw onto the pin base, for stability. This may still be an option in the final design.)

Or even a handle on the sprocket with some leverage that could turn the lisle socket by hand. This would eliminate the need for the second tool (wrench or socket) if it can be made strong enough.

I thought about this, that may work. The handle could even be one with the sprocket, I think. It just depends on the force required to turn the pin. Adding a handle could introduce a weak spot in the tool, as the printer's horizontal layer lines may come into play. What I have so far doesn't have this vulnerability. Unless we figure out a way to print it sideways? But if the handle were to come out of the side rather than being on top, the layer line issue is eliminated. I may try that.

I'd be willing to print one as shown and try it out - thanks for spending some time on this!

I can certainly send you the STL files. I'll work on it some more today, first.

Yes - 1/2 inch. I took a few measurements with a micrometer and it is nominal 0.500 with a range between 0.499" and 0.506"

OK, thanks, I'll proceed designing with that in mind. How long is the Shock Socket?

I'm no engineer so struggle when faced with some design challenges. Sill, designing in Fusion 360 is my favorite phase of the 3D-printing process. Soldering when assembling basic electronics is when I curse the most Thanks for your help and ideas!

 

Mine won't rotate even with some force while in park, vehicle off, which I believe are the conditions under which the park-lock device is designed to operate. Need to test more.

I don't know if it matters, but are you parked on a flat, level surface? The parking pawl may be harder to shift if parked on an incline and the weight of the vehicle is pushing on it.

 

How long is the Shock Socket?

3 inches, though any handle would not need to be that long.

designing in Fusion 360 is my favorite phase of the 3D-printing process

I agree! - I'm still learning Fusion, but it has been one of the easiest 3D CAD apps to pick up.

 

So I just tried this out, and it worked! The PLA part was able to turn the park release with very little force. The post has to be turned anti-clockwise when viewed from above. Not very much, I'd say less than 30 degrees. You can really feel the spring-loaded mechanism by hand.

I was able to push and pull the vehicle a few inches while holding the release open. It is spring loaded, and clicks back into place when released and the vehicle rocked forward and back. It is quite cumbersome to do this with one person holding the release, but it can be done.

Just one more step in the iteration, but I really think this is coming together. I'm starting to be convinced that this can actually be done with a 3D printed part, in combination with the Lisle tool.

I think I'll add some teeth to the bottom face of the "handle" - facing downward, to incorporate the @frank3246 idea of engaging teeth that align on the "base" part.