[smufguy]

Maybe once you are done, you ain't it and take it to SEMA 2025

 

[SK17touring]

This project takes me back to the eighties when I stuck a 350 in a Series II Land Rover using the stock transmission and adding an available overdrive so it could go over 50 mph. Didn't quite have the matching bolt patterns this project does though. Wish pictures were as simple back then too

 

[rclassic]

This is a pic of the after market drive axle for the right side.As you can see its missing 2 splines, the factory axle isn't missing any. I installed the factory axle and the movement where it attaches to the intermediate shaft is gone.

These are the codes I need to deal with. I measured the resistance of the 4 shift solenoids and they are all close to 10 ohm ,so I ordered 4 -10 ohm 25 watt resistors to replace the solenoids.As of now those 4 fault codes are gone. The 3 clutch pressure control solenoids are a bit more complex,the ecm turns these on and off and are variable depending on the voltage applied by the ecm.
For now I have attached them to the inner fender to make them more accessible for testing,with these plugged in it seems to have satisfied the ecm and those fault codes are also gone.
The other code is for the range switch,I assume that's because I have one of the clutch pedal switches wired to the neutral wire along with the starter relay wire, when the clutch pedal is depressed the circuit closes and starts the truck,when the clutch pedal is released it closes the other switch which has the D wire attached to it.I disconnected the D and N wires and the error code is gone,the ecm is not receiving any signal from the range switch so it has know idea whats going on with the transmission. I took the truck out for a short 1/2 mile ride and none of the codes have returned however it is idle searching when ever the clutch is depressed.It actual runs very well,I managed to get into 4 th gear and seems very strong.
The left side axle seal is leaking so I want to get that replaced and the transmission mount needs figured out, you can feel the whole engine rock forward when starting out.
Overall I am very pleased with this project so far,I'll keep tweaking and keep you updated.

 

[smufguy]

With the solenoids plugged in just to clear the PCM codes, how would that translate to engine power under driving conditions? Do the inputs from the VSS, steering angle, wheel speed, throttle position, other body control sensors affect engine power output?
Is there a solution for the VTM?

Its really cool that even after many years, we are unpacking some really cool stuff. Keep it up.

 

[rclassic]

Until I can take it out and put some miles on it there's know way to know,but I don't believe any of the body control functions effect engine performance.I did make a slight change that has improved the idle.
I removed the neutral wire from the clutch switch and hooked it directly to ground,now the ecm thinks the truck is in neutral all the time.I went for another short 2 mile ride and all seems good,but again until I log some miles who knows what might pop up. There aren't any issues with the VTM so far,there is several inches of snow here and the RL never lost traction.
My gut feeling is as long as the ecm thinks the truck is in neutral everything else should work as designed.Its no different than shifting any vehicle into neutral and coasting down a hill,everything else still works.I could be totally wrong I'm not a engineer I'm just a backyard mechanic that likes to mess with vehicles. Stay tuned................

 

[smufguy]

The engine does not rev past 5K in Park and Neutral right?
I am really surprised that the VTM did not have any issues. From what I understand the G1 ECU monitors both engine and driveline while the Hondas with a 9spd and 10spd use separate computers for engine and powertrain management. @zroger73 may know that for sure.

On the axle issue, not sure if I missed anything, cant you use the Ridgeline components with the MDX ones? Meaning, use the joints from Ridgeline/MDX, but use the shaft from Ridgeline to keep the length as you need it?

 

[zroger73]

The engine does not rev past 5K in Park and Neutral right?
I am really surprised that the VTM did not have any issues. From what I understand the G1 ECU monitors both engine and driveline while the Hondas with a 9spd and 10spd use separate computers for engine and powertrain management. @zroger73 may know that for sure.

The 2006-2014 and 2017-2019 Ridgelines used a Powertrain Control Module to control both the engine and transmission.
The 2020-current Ridgeline uses separate engine and transmission control modules.
There's no functional difference in the end result - the primary reason newer Ridgelines have separate control modules is because the TCM is supplied by ZF with the 9-speed transmission.

I believe the park/neutral rev limit only applies when the vehicle is stationary (or possibly below a certain speed). I believe it will still rev to redline as long as the vehicle is moving (or above a certain speed) as a fail-safe so that the vehicle can still be driven normally in the event it loses track of the shift position. You can verify this by shifting to neutral and testing the rev limit while the vehicle is stopped. Then, shift to neutral while the vehicle is moving and test the rev limit again. Seems like I tried this and found that the engine would rev fully as long as it was moving. But, I could be misremembering as new information forces old information into the archives.

 

[rclassic]

I'll need to put some miles on before testing the Rev limiter. As far as the axles go I was thinking the same thing,just haven't tore one apart yet to see if the splines match

 

[rclassic]

The 2006-2014 and 2017-2019 Ridgelines used a Powertrain Control Module to control both the engine and transmission.
The 2020-current Ridgeline uses separate engine and transmission control modules.
There's no functional difference in the end result - the primary reason newer Ridgelines have separate control modules is because the TCM is supplied by ZF with the 9-speed transmission.

I believe the park/neutral rev limit only applies when the vehicle is stationary (or possibly below a certain speed). I believe it will still rev to redline as long as the vehicle is moving (or above a certain speed) as a fail-safe so that the vehicle can still be driven normally in the event it loses track of the shift position. You can verify this by shifting to neutral and testing the rev limit while the vehicle is stopped. Then, shift to neutral while the vehicle is moving and test the rev limit again. Seems like I tried this and found that the engine would rev fully as long as it was moving. But, I could be misremembering as new information forces old information into the archives.

Haha. I write alot of things down these days

 

[rclassic]

I emailed Richie ,the owner of RV6,about this module he designed for a 6speed Accord swap years ago.
Its to bad he quit making them as I believe this module could be adapted to the RL.
https://www.v6performance.net/threads/6-speed-obsession-swap-info-and-harness.73383/

 

[BrokenLimits]

Forgive my ignorance here, but why not just use the ECM etc from the 6 speed donor and just make the Ridgeline "think" its an Acura TL Type S or whatever?

 

[rclassic]

That was the original plan but I can't get past the immobilizer from the donor,it's looking for several sensors the RL doesn't have,mainly keyless entry and push button start.It could be done but would be a nightmare of wires

 

[BrokenLimits]

Got it. Yeah without all of those things sitting in front of you, hard to just wire them all up.

 

[smufguy]

I believe the park/neutral rev limit only applies when the vehicle is stationary (or possibly below a certain speed). I believe it will still rev to redline as long as the vehicle is moving (or above a certain speed) as a fail-safe so that the vehicle can still be driven normally in the event it loses track of the shift position. You can verify this by shifting to neutral and testing the rev limit while the vehicle is stopped. Then, shift to neutral while the vehicle is moving and test the rev limit again. Seems like I tried this and found that the engine would rev fully as long as it was moving. But, I could be misremembering as new information forces old information into the archives.

I tested this while the vehicle was in motion, 20mph, 35mph and 60mph - regardless of speed, the engine does not rev past 5.5K when its dropped into Neutral. It sounds like an ignition cut (not familiar if it is ignition or fuel cut).


@rclassic , I agree that a plug & play solution would help - but also speaking with remote start installers can provide some guidance. I have a remote start (non-factory) in my truck for the last 9 years and it has been great. It does lock the steering wheel and the pedal inputs trigger vehicle turning off, but somehow they are bypassing the immobilizer system.

 

[rclassic]

I tested this while the vehicle was in motion, 20mph, 35mph and 60mph - regardless of speed, the engine does not rev past 5.5K when its dropped into Neutral. It sounds like an ignition cut (not familiar if it is ignition or fuel cut).


@rclassic , I agree that a plug & play solution would help - but also speaking with remote start installers can provide some guidance. I have a remote start (non-factory) in my truck for the last 9 years and it has been great. It does lock the steering wheel and the pedal inputs trigger vehicle turning off, but somehow they are bypassing the immobilizer system.

I would think something like Ktuner would be able to increase the rev limiter if needed.
As far as the remote start, any time I have installed an after market,there has to be a key fob hidden inside the vehicle at all times.That's how they get around the immobilizer.

 

[rclassic]

I decided to relocate the ABS motor so the factory upper transmission mount can be used.

I made a new bracket for the ABS motor to sit on,Now I have to reroute the brake lines.

 

[rclassic]

I was actually able to use 4 of the 6 brake lines after straightening them out a bit,the other 2 I made 10" extensions to reach the abs module.

the bracket for the factory mount isn't going to work so I'll need to make something that will.

I removed the bracket and had a piece of steel pipe that the mount fits into.its a start......

 

[rclassic]

I was able to spend some time on the bracket today,hopefully this stops the transmission from any movement.

 

[rclassic]

 

[rclassic]

I've been questioning the axle fitment and have to know for sure if there is another option.
So I decided to purchase 2 new axles from GSP,1 for a 2011 Ridgeline and the other for a 2012 Acura TL and compare that to the axle I am currently using for a 2013 Acura MDX.

Its hard to see in the pic but the TL axle is 3.5mm smaller than the RL and MDX, and on the inside joint,the MDX is 3/8" longer than the TL.
At this point I didn't think it would be possible to install the TL inside joint on the much beefier RL axle.

as you can see in this pic the outside joint for a RL is a lot bigger than the other 2.
So I'm thinking I can at least use the RL axle for the correct length and outside joint,and swap out the inner joint with the MDX to fit the transmission.
I then noticed something odd,all 3 axles have the same rubber boot part# on the inside joints.

curiosity got the best of me so I decided to remove the inside joints and compare the difference.

The inside dimensions of all 3 joints are the same............Game changer!

The RL axle and outside joint with the TL inside joint.

A perfect fit RL 6 speed manual transmission axle !! at least for the left side, I'll have to order the right side axles and see if it swaps over also.