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Brake fluid flush

28K views 47 replies 19 participants last post by  F6Hawk  
In my experience with brake work on BOTH of my GenIs, it is very difficult to get every last bit of air out of the system after air has entered during component replacement. I have used manual and compressor assisted vacuum bleeders by themselves and or combined with the two person pedal method and have still found that a quality shop using a specialized machine (manufactured by BG in my case) was able to firm up the pedal even more. I am a die hard DIY type but I have been humbled by the brake bleeding difficulty on my GenI's. I have done major brake work on cars for years but the Ridge was my first ABS equipped vehicle so perhaps that may be part of the problem. Based on the numbers of GenII owners with less than satisfactory pedal feel, I would highly recommend finding a knowledgeable shop with a machine like the following BG one. Doing a thorough flush will rule out that air and or contaminants are adding to the mushy pedal feel.
 
Moisture will enter a "closed" brake system through all sorts of places including the hoses, seals and reservoir. There is a reason why many manufactures spec for a time (or mileage) based brake fluid change out.
 
Zroger says "Mazda has no recommendation regarding brake fluid flushes. Toyota says only to "inspect" the fluid. Nissan says to change as frequently as every 2/24 (normal) or 1/12 (severe)! Ford says to change the brake fluid according to the maintenance schedule, but the maintenance schedule doesn't specify an interval for brake fluid. :)"

I say "There is a reason why many manufactures spec for a time (or mileage) based brake fluid change out."
 
Absolutely true. Now imagine how much faster that water would ingress the brake fluid if the system were actually open to the air. Going thru the reservoir seal is much more difficult than going thru an open hole, eh?
Of course, but as you say that doesn't stop the water from finding its way into the system over time. I have never had my used brake fluid analyzed but I most certainly shows signs of having absorbed water. I have seen plenty of caliper pistons badly rusted over the years. This is rust on the sealed side that contacts the brake fluid. Steam is also a very poor hydraulic component in the brake system. I think 2-3 years for the brake fluid is a good idea if you want the system operating in top form and if you want you braking components to last.
 
If you stopped looking, you would stop seeing water intrusion! :D

Kidding. Sort of. As I said above, my G1 never had the brake system touched in 16 years that I and one other fellow owned it. Still going strong. Will there be rust on the calipers? Perhaps. But not so much that the brakes fail nor the pads wear out prematurely.
Rust ON calipers has nothing to do with the brake fluid changes. Rust inside the closed system does.
Not touching is your brake system for 16 years is simply a bad idea. Are you really suggesting that that is a wise move? After 16 years would you even recognize diminished braking performance?
Plenty of complaints about brakes on both generations of Ridgelines to be found here and elsewhere. Mushy brake pedal feel, pulsing brakes during hard stops, uneven pad wear etc. The guide pins on the calipers on are particularly prone to freezing up keeping the caliper from floating properly around the rotor. Using proper lubricant and servicing the guide pins every few years goes a long way to keeping the system working at it best.
In my own experience, changing out the brake fluid / bleeding the brake system every few years makes a difference that you can actually feel. Overall, I feel (based on common sense and actual observations) that it also promotes brake system component lifespan.