It's difficult to see on the diagram, but this might be the part

37
74415-T6Z-A01
Fairing Assembly, R Rear Fender
FAIRING ASSY., R. RR. FENDER

$24.57
$19.90


39
74465-T6Z-A01
Fairing Assembly, L Rear Fender
FAIRING ASSY., L. RR. FENDER

$24.57
$19.90

 

Yes and thanks.

I believe you've got it. When I called the parts department yesterday and before I got disconnected, I believe the fellow used the term faring when describing the part.

I'm fairly sure the dealer doesn't stock this part and need to have a part name when scheduling service so they can order the part ahead of time.

I was told by 'someone' that the seal was only decorative (to make it look like a truck) since the vehicle is uni-body constructed and there is no joint to seal. But that part looks anything but decorative?

Mark

 

On the Gen2 there that's where the body panel ends. Someone put up a video last week of how to install one so there should be a gap there. The Gen1 has a continuous piece.

 

I have the seal as a continuous strip on the driver's side.

On the passenger's side there's 3" portion of the strip that disappears into the body and then reappears continuing to the bottom. It's a warranty item but I needed a better idea of what I was talking about when scheduling.

Since I can't get any 'time to install' from the dealer ahead of time, you wouldn't happen to have an idea if this is a PITA to do or a relatively quick install?

There's one other minor problem that I'll have attended to since the vehicle will be in. Pulling the tailgate latch to open the gate down is really hard. It takes a couple of hard pulls before it'll do so (as opposed to the super easy latch to open the gate sideways. How's your gate latch in difficulty opening down?

Mark

 

There's one other minor problem that I'll have attended to since the vehicle will be in. Pulling the tailgate latch to open the gate down is really hard. It takes a couple of hard pulls before it'll do so (as opposed to the super easy latch to open the gate sideways. How's your gate latch in difficulty opening down?

Is the latch hard to move or does the latch move freely, yet the tailgate won't lower despite pulling the latch?

There have been occasional issues with the tailgate's drop and/or swing modes since the 2006 Ridgeline came out. The second generation Ridgeline's tailgate mechanism (including its problems) was carried over from the first generation. It's a mechanically complex design where everything has to be "just right" for it to work properly. In the rare instance there is a problem, a one-time adjustment or repair usually takes care of it from that point forward.

There have been at least a couple of TSB's issued over the years for tailgate swing mode problems - just do a search here for "swing mode".

 

The "seal" hides the panel gap as far as I know. That said, sideways opening = super easy, the tailgate down requires two hands. One to unlatch, one to pull gate open. I don't use it that much and have gotten used to it.

 

The "seal" is not to hide a gap, but rather to give the illusion of a traditional pickup. The gap was an intentional design element and so is that rubber seal.

If the tailgate seems to be binding on its way down, or you see excessive wear on the latch ring, or tighter clearance on the tailgate and the bed, take it to the dealership and have them address it.

 

Like they say, 'A picture is worth a thousand words'! The video clip explanation is much appreciated.

Thanks,

Mark

 

The latch is not hard to move at all. It's just hard to get the gate to pull out once the latch is engaged. It's as if the gate sticks.

I've got the feeling if I could use two hands (as silkiechicken mentioned), one on the latch and one on top of the gate, I wouldn't be having this problem. However, with the tonneau cover, I cannot grab the gate top. Once a week I need to pull the gate down, fold the tonneau back 2 turns, lift the gate back up and then lift the trash container into the bed and drive it back up to the house. When I go in for the fairing seal repaired I'll see if the gate can be adjusted. Otherwise, I'll start swinging the gate open, then do the tonneau, close the gate, then pull down the gate with two hands, put the container in the bed and lift the gate.

 

"There's one other minor problem that I'll have attended to since the vehicle will be in. Pulling the tailgate latch to open the gate down is really hard. It takes a couple of hard pulls before it'll do so (as opposed to the super easy latch to open the gate sideways. How's your gate latch in difficulty opening down?"

Do you have a tonneau cover? I have a Honda OEM which makes it a little hard to open down--no problem at all swinging open.

 

"The original Ridgeline's sloping buttresses weren't a styling edict or a structural requirement. They were dictated by a basic Honda manufacturing tenet, which requires standardized build processes to the extent that any of the company's final-assembly plants can build any Honda vehicle with minimal reconfiguration. One of the key commonalities (and universal to virtually all unibody construction) is the use of a single body-side panel from A-pillar to taillight. The 135-degree angle defining where the buttress met the top of the bed was as close as Honda could get to an L shape with a single panel and still ensure its quality.

For the second-generation truck, engineers were forced to alter their approach when Honda decided to stretch the bed length by four inches. The previous body side, already the largest stamping Honda produced, was so long that the die extended beyond the press, and the manufacturing experts weren't willing to move farther beyond the tool's dimensions. Instead, the new Ridgeline uses a bolt-on rear fender that allows for a more traditional cab-and-bed look. The unibody chassis hides beneath the skin with a stamped steel truss-like structure in the bedsides that is welded and bonded to the cab's C-pillar. The Ridgeline's unique rear fender now integrates into Honda's manufacturing process. In the Lincoln, Alabama, assembly plant where the Ridgeline is built, the addition of the rear-fender-installation cell offers the opportunity for additional welding or structural adhesive application on future models."

https://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/2017-honda-ridgeline-vs-canada-feature

 

@zroger73 , what is the torsional rigidity of the G1?

 

Yep, the tonneau cover is what's causing the gate pull down problem.

Yesterday was time to bring the trash container up from the street. Instead of doing as I've done before, this time I first swung the gate open, then folded back the top, closed the gate and then (as mentioned by someone earlier) put one hand on top of the gate and one on the latch. The gate came down easily. I'm thinking there's likely some friction between the gate top and tonneau causing the pull down action just using the latch to be sticky.

Problem solved.

Mark

 

I am trying to remove the rubber seal that separates the bed and cab on both sides of the vehicle on a 2017 honda ridgeline. I think the part number is 74415-T6Z-A01 (Fairing Assembly). is it something that cab be done without removing the entire bedside?