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Full synthetic vs. synthetic blend

48K views 95 replies 55 participants last post by  stevem5215  
#1 ·
I got the maintenance due soon message on the dash, 15% oil life. I'll be taking it to the dealer for this first oil change (5500 miles). Should I ask for synthetic oil or synthetic blend? When I had the factory tonneau installed when the truck was new, I asked the service advisor which oil they recommend. All he said was "it's up to you". He didn't know what the factory puts in the engine to begin with.
 
#4 ·
Honda discontinued their synthetic blend 0W-20 leaving only on a full synthetic 0W-20. They don't sell a conventional 0W-20. You can use conventional, synthetic blend, or full synthetic. The only recommendation is that you use a "premium grade 0W-20 detergent oil with the API certification seal on the bottle". No matter what brand or type of oil you use, it's important to change it when the Maintenance Minder tells you to. All oil brands and types get dirty and diluted over time.

I always buy the Honda-branded 0W-20. There's no way of knowing for sure what went in your vehicle when it comes through ceiling-mounted hose reels connected to bulk drums.
 
#6 ·
I can't stress it enough for people to use the proper grade and have it changed at the proper time. Always use a quality filter too. It is a small price to pay for probably the most important element of the vehicle (behind the driver, of course). I have known people to make a huge deal about their wheels but neglect their oil. One of the other benefits of doing it yourself is the ability to peek under the vehicle and be aware of something before it turns into an issue.

I can't tally all the cash it has saved me over the years but it is a huge amount (probably allowed me to buy the RL in the long run) !!
 
#8 · (Edited by Moderator)
Good info on the oil changes. Right now I'm feeling glad again that I bought my '18 RT-L from a dealer that I had to drive an hour to get to. Probably passed ten dealerships on the way there. Best dealer I've ever dealt with and as a plus they give you free lifetime oil changes and car washes at the premises. I never thought I would drive that far again just to get an oil change but after the exceptional treatment I received, I will and I won't have to decide which cheaper oil or alternate filter to buy. They gave me a great deal on installed extras too three weeks after I purchased the truck which I couldn't believe. Makes me love the truck even more. Never thought I'd ever speak in such praising language about a dealer. I'm still used to getting BS so I will ask what type of oil and filter before I get my freebie.
 
#9 ·
Best dealer I've ever dealt with and as a plus they give you free lifetime oil changes and car washes at the premises.
I occasionally get "free lifetime oil changes and car washes" depending on when and where I buy, but I never utilize either. Oil changes only come around about every 8 months and take 15 minutes at a cost of less than $40 - plus I know exactly what goes in it and that it's done properly. I avoid automatic car washes because they scratch the paint. One of my local dealers offered "lifetime" oil changes for a few years. They were bought out. The new owners discontinued the free oil change program and did not honor free oil changes for the customers they bought along with the business - even for those who complained.
 
#13 ·
The oil still needs to be changed no later than indicated by the Maintenance Minder no matter what type you use. Using synthetic oil does not make it okay to go beyond the oil change interval - synthetic oil still gets dirty and diluted just like conventional oil.
 
#24 ·
I let the dealer do my first oil change when the minder light came on at over 9K miles. I was nervous to let them touch it. They rotated the tires and yes, they scratched a wheel. The rest of the changes and rotations will be done by me. Shops do too much damage. And remember, the oil change and rotation guys are the least experienced in the shop. I keep it record of maintenence that I perform for warranty purposes.
 
#26 ·
This is a good point. With aluminum oil pans, you can almost guarantee the plug threads will be stripped well before the vehicle has exceeded its life. If you do it yourself you can avoid issues or at least prolong thread life.

I had to helicoil my daughter's 2004 Pilot oil pan this summer after its last oil change.
 
#28 · (Edited)
I'm the original poster ... I called the dealer today to make an appointment for my first service. Maintenance minder is now showing "A1 5% oil life". 5900 miles, purchased new 3/31/17. I asked if they used full synthetic. The service scheduler said synthetic blend is recommended. I asked for the price on full synthetic ... $70.95. For that price I may go with their synthetic blend.

Also the manual says "A1" maintenance minder service is oil change and tire rotation. Oil *filter* replacement isn't until "B" service. I'm surprised replacing the oil filter is not part of the first service. I'll be asking them about that when I go in for the service.

I'm open to all opinions and advice. Thanks.
 
#32 ·
Now that's an interesting choice. FWIW, I've been mixing 0W-20 weight oil with 5W-30 weight (50-50%) for as long as Honda has been recommending 0W-20 weight motor oil. I also ran 5W-30 weight for over 10 years in two Civic Si's (an '02 and an '05) despite Honda's recommending 0W-20. Why? Because I'm a belt-and-suspenders guy, and more to the point, I exchanged e-mail with the folks who built the 2-liter Si engines in the Civics (in Swindon, England), and their folks kindly responded with the advice that they continued to recommend 5W-30 weight oil to their customers without regard to what American Honda was recommending to its US owners. Same was true in Germany, btw. Australia, too. (I'd link the e-mail responses here but the Dell computer on which they were stored has long since gone to the Great Reward for dead electronic devices.) Additionally, during the period that I owned the Civics (12 years), a good number of Si owners running 0W-20 weight oil (roughly 5%) experienced camshaft galling issues. The actual cause of the problem was never resolved -- high temps, high rpm, poor maintenance, careless owners? Who knows. What I learned, however, was those of us who had opted for an HTO certified oil (high temperature operation) (M1 5W-30, for example) didn't have a problem. Was our "experiment" dispositive of the camshaft issue? Beats me, but it was enough to convince me that 0W-20 weight oil had its limitations. Since then a "frankenbrew" of 0W-20 & 5W-30 M1 has served me well in eight other Hondas over a 20 year period, so I'm sticking with it.

So, hang in there Griso. I admire your decision-making skills.
 
#33 ·
I had the dealer change my oil once. Even if it's free, not worth it to me. I got home, checked the dipstick and it was right at the "min" line and noticed oil dripping on my garage floor. Took it back and service advisor said the oil filter gasket was pinched and was leaking. They installed a new oil filter and re-filled to the proper level. The underside of the truck had oil dripping for days. I will always change my own oil from now on. You will find the Honda oil filter difficult to remove because it's so close to a cross member. If you follow other threads, there are many suggestion on oil filter brands that are shorter and allow for a easier removal.
 
#34 ·
Vote with your feet.

My wife's 2012 Pilot came with a 'free lifetime oil change' from a prestigious dealer in an Ivy League town nearby. These became 2 to 3 hour long affairs. After one of them I found 3 of 4 bolts holding the air cleaner were broken by the clowns in their service dept. They had taken it apart to show me the air filter and the cabin filter. I never asked for anything other than the free oil change. BTW - They wanted $125.00 to change the air filter and (are you sitting down?) $175.00 to change the cabin filter. I said get on with the oil change as we were coming up to 3 hours now.

Needless to say while I appreciated all the free coffee and donuts and the several test rides of Honda products at this dealership when it came time to purchase the Ridgeline, I went elsewhere. This service dept cost them the sale.
 
#35 · (Edited)
Another vote for Honda oil. Keep to the MM with maintenance and you'll be fine. Others may disagree, but sticking to Honda fluids has not shown to be any better or worse than other products out there IMHO. I'm at 102k by the way and just had my TB, spark plugs, and valves adjusted (oh and a motor mount). Runs like glass.
 
#36 ·
1st Oil Change Synthetic Not Used??

Just got my 1st oil change done today. The Honda garage only charged me $38 for it. I asked for the synthetic change and expected to pay double that. They said there is a more expensive oil they can use but Honda recommends using this $38 oil change in all their vehicles. I'm wondering if I got the fully synthetic change I wanted? I don't wanna have to get it changed again at 3000 miles. That's why I've always done the fully synthetic change and let it go 6000 or so miles.
 
#38 ·
Re: 1st Oil Change Synthetic Not Used??

How many miles on your RL at time of change? Was it indicated by the maintenance minder? Since there is no such thing as “conventional” 0w-20, you probably got a synthetic blend, which even if you ignore the maintenance minder and change at a set interval, should be good for at least 6,000 miles in almost any driving condition. 3,000 miles oil changes have been out the window for many years now. There simply is no need to change oil that often, unless it helps you sleep better at night.
 
#40 ·
Re: 1st Oil Change Synthetic Not Used??

The maintenance minder started coming on few weeks ago at 15% oil life left. I have 8000 miles on it.

How many miles on your RL at time of change? Was it indicated by the maintenance minder? Since there is no such thing as “conventional” 0w-20, you probably got a synthetic blend, which even if you ignore the maintenance minder and change at a set interval, should be good for at least 6,000 miles in almost any driving condition. 3,000 miles oil changes have been out the window for many years now. There simply is no need to change oil that often, unless it helps you sleep better at night.
 
#39 ·
Re: 1st Oil Change Synthetic Not Used??

Great. Another oil debate.

1. Honda no longer has a synthetic blend. It's all synthetic now.

2. I don't know of a dealership that uses Honda-branded oil for oil changes.

3. While I use only Honda Genuine Ultimate Full Synthetic oil and 15400-PLM-A01 filters at a cost of about $55 doing it myself, your engine will last hundreds of thousands of miles if you change it according to the Maintenance Minder using whatever oil the dealership decides to put in it.
 
#67 ·
Re: 1st Oil Change Synthetic Not Used??

Wow, so much stuff going on in just one thread!!!

1. Honda no longer has a synthetic blend. It's all synthetic now.

2. I don't know of a dealership that uses Honda-branded oil for oil changes.
Someone else mentioned it, maybe you, but there are two "full synthetic" oils in 0w-20 from Honda. Dealership I work at only uses the "Ultimate Full Synthetic" in 0w-20.


1. Oil changes have become loss leaders to get people into dealerships where they have the opportunity to upsell other services (tires, filters, brakes, batteries, fluids, etc.)...
Very true. Due to the tight margins on most cars and even smaller SUVs, dealerships can't survive on new sales alone, so they HAVE to form lasting service relationships with customers.

As a comparison, my local VW dealer charged me $100 for an oil change to my previous Passat. They also charge significantly more on other services than Honda dealer does.
OUCH!

It says on the invoice they used qty5 of a part# 127075 description 0W20. Wonder if that 127075 is the Honda part number for their official oil.
Not a Honda part number, as far as I can tell. Could be a partial number, but not likely. Maybe it's a job code/sku?

I talked with Honda today and they advised that Honda doesn’t have a full synthetic oil and Honda recommends their synthetic blend in all of their newer vehicles.
Already covered, but just to reinforce this. Honda actually has 2 full synthetic oils in 0w-20. As I understand it (could be wrong, can't find the link) the ultimate full syn is 100% PAO (group IV?) synthetic.

There are no "conventional" 0w-20 or 5w20 these are group 3 oils.

"synthetic oil" is a widely defined term most often what this means is a group 3 or sometimes called Group3+ hydro cracked oils then they are aren't fully man made but are labeled synthetic or fully synthetic by some but truly aren't. Additionally the fischer tropsch refinement also called GTL or gas to liquid seems to be a "3+" this is also available in varying % as a blend Pennzoil platinum was the first guys to tout this I can recall.

These group 3 oils are often blended with group 4 to offer very high or ""extended protection blends like 15K

A Group 4's or manmade PAO formulation are synthesized differently and considered the top ranking of what definable as synthetic. . Oils like Mobil ones annual protection (20K) have a very high percent of PAO in them but are still blended with group 3+.

If someone says fully synthetic they should be able to answer how much PAO in the blend. ...
man wouldn't THAT be some truth in advertising!

UPDATE: It appears there are currently two different part numbers for Honda full synthetic 0W-20 oil - 08798-9037 (silver bottle labeled "ultimate") and 08798-9063 (black bottle not labeled "ultimate") - the latter of which appears newer. The 08798-9037 is/was made by Phillips 66 for Honda. I can't find an MSDS or any information verifying whether or not Phillips 66 still makes the 08798-9063. It's possible Honda changed suppliers...again.
As far as I can tell, the "full synthetic" is supposed to now take the place of the syn-blend. Less expensive than the "ultimate" but still good oil. I suspect it may not be rated for the newer 0w20 turbos, but can't get an answer on that. My dealership only use the Ultimate full syn in 0w20, so I don't have anything to go on there. (HTO-06 spec only applies to 5w-30, i think)

Quick FYI for those of you that get the A01 filters from H and A, they have 40% off standard shipping right now.
FYI, we've had issues with them in the past and the current batch have a smaller amount of oring/gasket squish before mechanically bottoming out (compared to the A02), and a couple have failed to seal and ejected oil on startup (something the techs haven't seen with the A02).