[NJKen0950]

Had my injectors replaced under warranty in my 17 Ridgeline for the second time a couple weeks ago(first time in 2020). I have state emission inspection coming up soon and I plugged in my scan tool for a quick check and found the I/M status light was yellow instead of green. Truck is running good and no codes are stored. It's been driven @200 miles with many cycles since the repair, should definitely be green . Anybody run into this?

 

[ATL RL]

Had my injectors replaced under warranty in my 17 Ridgeline for the second time a couple weeks ago(first time in 2020). I have state emission inspection coming up soon and I plugged in my scan tool for a quick check and found the I/M status light was yellow instead of green. Truck is running good and no codes are stored. It's been driven @200 miles with many cycles since the repair, should definitely be green . Anybody run into this?

Does that 200 miles include both city and highway driving?

Does your scan tool show which monitor needs to be run?.....if not.....find one that will tell you that....otherwise any answers are just a guess.

Edit- try NOT to fill up your tank....keep it between about 1/4 and 3/4 so the evap test can run....of that 200 miles you have driven...if with a full tank of gas....may have caused the first 50-80 miles to be ineligible for the evap test.....and the mix of driving after that may not have been "perfect" for the test to run.

 

[NJKen0950]

Yes both city and highway, it had @3/4 tank at the start. Scan tool does say EV, I assume that's evap. I'll give it a little more time, fingers crossed, thanks for the info!!

 

[ATL RL]

Yes both city and highway, it had @3/4 tank at the start. Scan tool does say EV, I assume that's evap. I'll give it a little more time, fingers crossed, thanks for the info!!

This is a random post made by someone which gives a decent generic approach.

The decel periods are important....I suggest you purposely go out on the highway during light traffic and take your foot off the gas and coast from 65ish down to a lower speed for that 5 second period with no foot on the brake.

Do it a couple of times.

Here is the copy/paste-

Cold Start Start the engine after it has been sitting for 8+ hours. Ambient temperature: 40–100°F. Let it idle for 5 minutes with A/C and fans off.
Moderate Drive Drive at 25–35 mph for about 10–15 minutes, light throttle. Try to maintain steady speeds, minimal stops.
Cruise Drive at 45–60 mph for another 10–15 minutes. Maintain steady throttle.
Coasting/Deceleration Let your foot off the gas and coast down for at least 5 seconds. This helps test purge/vent valves.
(My edit- some sources say coast from 60 to 20 mph....no braking during the decel)
Stop and Idle After driving, let the car idle again for 5–10 minutes before shutting off.

Tip: Do this with the fuel tank between 1/4 and 3/4, ideally just under half.

 

[BeshmoHandes]

The service info for 2017 says to use the clearing conditions for DTC P0456 and P0441 to run the evap checks. If passed, it should set readiness for evap.

It looks like the steps for P0456 should be done first, then P0441.



For P0456:

After the vehicle has been off for (6 hours) with both the engine coolant temperature and intake air temperature within (40 to 90°F) start the engine.

Drive the vehicle immediately at a speed between 25 - 75 mph (40 - 120 km/h) for at least 23 minutes.

After stopping the vehicle, turn the vehicle to the OFF (LOCK) mode and leave the vehicle in this condition for at least 37 minutes (EONV executes).

Drive the vehicle in this manner only if the traffic regulations and ambient conditions allow.



For P0441

Operating Condition

1. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed [ENGINE SPEED] at 3,000 rpm without load (in P or N) until the radiator fan comes on.
2. Let the engine idle for at least 64 seconds.
3. Turn the vehicle to the OFF (LOCK) mode and leave the vehicle for at least 10 seconds.