[Bentarrow12]

Hello,

After going 2 years w/o a Ridgeline after someone totalled my 2013, I can't wait much longer. I live in Texas and there is a dealer in a nearby state that has 3 RTL-E's in AWD in the color I want. They have heated steering wheel and optional fog lights.

One has been on the lot for 150 days the other has been on lot for almost 120 days and the 3rd one has been there almost 90 days. All have less than 30 miles on them. So here are my questions:

1. Has the "automatic braking making sudden panic stops for no reason" issue been solved? That's one reason I have waited 2 years after reading several horror stories.

2. List price for all 3 is almost $43,000. I am thinking about offering a $10,000 down payment and "finance $27,000 at 0.9 percent for remaining balance including TTL, to take that RTL-E that's been on your lot for 5 months off your hands". If this is not realistic even for an RTL-E that hasn't sold in 5 months, then what is? What would be the max offer I should make before walking out?

3. I am currently a Honda Accord owner, semi-retired, working part-time at a local community college. My wife is a Veteran, who cannot work due to a car accident as a civilian. So is all this worth mentioning to hopefully get a low interest rate from Honda Finance?

Any negotiating suggestions would be most appreciated. I have not contacted this dealer as I want to walk in "cold" on the slowest day (Monday) near the end of the month.

 

[zroger73]

Hello,

After going 2 years w/o a Ridgeline after someone totalled my 2013, I can't wait much longer. I live in Texas and there is a dealer in a nearby state that has 3 RTL-E's in AWD in the color I want. They have heated steering wheel and optional fog lights.

One has been on the lot for 150 days the other has been on lot for almost 120 days and the 3rd one has been there almost 90 days. All have less than 30 miles on them. So here are my questions:

1. Has the "automatic braking making sudden panic stops for no reason" issue been solved? That's one reason I have waited 2 years after reading several horror stories.

2. List price for all 3 is almost $43,000. I am thinking about offering a $10,000 down payment and "finance $27,000 at 0.9 percent for remaining balance including TTL, to take that RTL-E that's been on your lot for 5 months off your hands". If this is not realistic even for an RTL-E that hasn't sold in 5 months, then what is? What would be the max offer I should make before walking out?

3. I am currently a Honda Accord owner, semi-retired, working part-time at a local community college. My wife is a Veteran, who cannot work due to a car accident as a civilian. So is all this worth mentioning to hopefully get a low interest rate from Honda Finance?

Any negotiating suggestions would be most appreciated. I have not contacted this dealer as I want to walk in "cold" on the slowest day (Monday) near the end of the month.

Hi!

All RTL-E's are AWD and come with heated steering wheels and fog lights - you can't get an RTL-E without any of these features. The list price from the factory is $42,965. It's possible to by a new RTL-E for around $38,500 + tax, title, and license right now. I did a month ago.

1. There appear to be no changes to the CMBS or other features of Honda Sensing. There have been no recalls and no TSB's for Honda Sensing features on the Ridgeline. The only complaints I've seen on here were people not understanding how the system operates or driving too aggressively.

2. I think $37,000 is an unrealistic price. That's too far below actual dealer cost. I believe the only way you could get one for that is if the dealer is one vehicle shy of qualifying for a bonus.

3. There are currently no cash incentives or special 0.9-2.9% financing offers from Honda on the Ridgeline. You'll be as well or better off by bringing your own financing. If your wife is within one year of separation from active service, you qualify for a $500 discount if you finance through Honda. However, with no special interest rates on the Ridgeline you may still be better off bringing your own financing.

 

[Camino]

Agree with zroger.
Are you trading something in? That affects the answer.

Assuming you're not, depends on TTL in your state (over $4k in some states), as well as any doc fees, and inflated dealer-installed options that they put on all cars (window tint or "paint protection" for example.

 

[mumbles]

Start at 37k. Whats the worst they can say.....no

 

[Camino]

I'd at least add your TTL to the 37k.
Given that the invoice, holdback, destination charges are readily available public numbers, I do think there's a downside impression left by opening with an impossible low-ball offer that is potentially thousands of dollars underwater for them. They're more likely to want to negotiate if you're close to start with. To figure the tax part of the TTL you need to have an offer for just the car in mind, and calculate the sales tax on that for the city the dealership is in. The title/license part is often a state-mandated formula based on some percent of the MSRP of the model you're buying. But as zroger note, the known-unknown is how close they are to their monthly incentive. If they're not close, or have already met it, they will balk. Since you don't want to wait much longer, I personally would try to get closer to reasonable.

Also good to keep in mind that you're going to spend far more than the available "negotiating margin" over the first few years in gas, insurance, upgrades, maintenance, annual license fees, and interest on the loan.

 

[TexasMitch]

1. Call 3 dealerships and speak to the online / internet sales rep. (Call major cities within a couple of hours for you ). Just tell them you are out of town and need an exact best price before you drive down.
I’m in Austin and bought in Austin but I called dealerships in the big three cities to get pricing. I did get a verbal quote from Dallas in the $37k range but it sounded I little too good to be true and did not want to drive to Dallas to have a bunch of extra charges pop up.
Get prices from each dealer. You should not be paying more that $39.5 +ttl at the high end.
I bought mine a few weeks ago and got it for the $39.5 price + “free” window tint ($300 value) +ttl
I’m sure I could get it cheaper but my dealer took care of the level kit I wanted and I did not want to bother with it myself at the time.

2. If you are trading in , go to carmax and have then give you a cash price for the trade . Then you can show up to the dealership knowing what it’s worth.

3. Call your local credit union and find out what interest rate you can get on an Auto loan. I was not seeing any 0.9% rates a few weeks ago. At that time Honda was not offering that rate on Ridgelines but I think some other cars did have the 0.9% rate.

4. Do not buy the extended warranty from the dealership. If you really want it, search online. I did not buy one yet but found I could get Hondacare 6year/120k mile for $1050.00. About half what the dealer wanted to charge. Do not fall for them telling you what the extra monthly cost will be instead of the total cost for the product. Do not get all the extra tire warranty and other stuff they will try to sell you.

5. If you are wanting any basic accessories like all weather mats, etc... stuff that does not require installation, Do not buy from dealer, you can get OEM stuff like that much cheaper online.

6. Print out your quotes , trade value, interest rate and take them with you when you buy. Bring your check book and proof of insurance.

 

[Bentarrow12]

My thanks to all that have offered advice. I do not have a trade in - 2002 Accord is my work car totalled from hail damage and I'm not about to let a dealer "have" my 2004 V6 Mustang with 51000 actual miles.

It sounds like I'd better start at $38000 before the 6.25 percent sales tax and registration fees and see if they counter with a significantly higher offer. Also looks like I should expect a 2.9 percent interest rate at best.

 

[Royaldee]

Ben I'm guessing that $39,500 is probably a great final number. And the 2.9% interest rate is good too! I'm seeing the "zero" interest and cash back on sedans (decreased sales) BUT truck/suv sales remain strong.
Now the reason I posted! I just bought a very clean 2007 RL. It came with a BACKFlip FiberMax tonneau cover. I love the truck AND the BF is like the cherry on the ice cream sundae. Wife and I are golfers and the BF + swing tail gate (I have purchased but not installed a Pop & Lock) are perfect for hauling/hiding our golf clubs. Also the BF just looks good on the RL. As for the argument that I can't haul refrigerators! Sure I can! I have a 8' utility trailer for that OR you can just go to UHaul/Home Depot and rent one. My point is for you to consider having the dealer add a tonneau cover and include it in the purchase price/financing. Just something to consider unless your hauling stuff!

 

[Hydrogeoman007]

I paid $40k for my 2019 Black Edition about 6 weeks ago near Charlotte. Also got several freebies previously installed by dealer. All i paid on top of the 40k was my state tax (500 maximum in s. Carolina) All other fees were included at 40k. Dealer still made a few bucks over invoice and hold back. I really didn't want black but they were dealing better than RTL-E.

 

[silkiechicken]

It honestly wont hurt to also just walk in casually, not looking like you're desperate for the truck, point at it and make that lowball offer. That's what we did for our Ridgeline and we were just joking so we could get out of there.... they came back and said OK. Worst they can say is no. Just stick with the number you want to keep and walk away if they don't agree. Always another day to re-group and re try. They might be desperate to move one, they might not. But it is a balance between how much you want the truck and how much extra you're willing to pay.

 

[AKSHARK]

2.9% is a great offer, the best Honda offered me was 4.99% and I have an 815 FICO.

I went with Bank of America @ 3.99% BTW I paid invoice for mine.

 

[FlatKansas]

Automotive financing rates are creeping up and as another poster pointed out, Honda does not have any special financing rates for the RL currently.

I just bought a Ridgeline on Saturday and with my luck, I am sure the prices are going to come down now!

The dealer I purchased from has 13 RLs on the lot, 8 of them RTL-E models. After the sale, I was talking to the sales manager and we talked about the RL sales being down. He said that a dealership to the north has 47 Ridgelines on the lot and looks like 18 are RLT-E models.

I would encourage you to get pre-approved for financing and if the dealer can beat the rate, even better.

Good luck!

 

[Royaldee]

No trade in AND a preapproved letter GET'S THE DEALERS ATTENTION, BIG TIME!

 

[robertyb]

I always walk into a dealership with a drive out price including tax and title fees in my head that I know is pretty much not going to be acceptable. I offer it after hearing their price and get refused and walk away. I am always stopped before I reach my vehicle and usually before I get to the door with a counter offer. I have bought my last 3 vehicles all within $1000 of my original offer. You just have to be ready to walk until an acceptable medium is reached.
I bought my 1st ever 4X4 truck years ago by calling dealerships asking for the best out the door price. I never walked into a dealership or talked to a salesman until I actually picked up my new truck at the exact price they quoted. Now you can do that by email.

 

[stevem5215]

I made my whole deal via email. Contacted through our employee purchasing program first and they made a price. I then emailed other dealers about the same vehicle and was able to save another $250 via that method. But overall it wasn't as cheap as some are getting now because the model was brand new in 2016 as a 2017 year. But, as mentioned it can all be done via email.

Steve

I always walk into a dealership with a drive out price including tax and title fees in my head that I know is pretty much not going to be acceptable. I offer it after hearing their price and get refused and walk away. I am always stopped before I reach my vehicle and usually before I get to the door with a counter offer. I have bought my last 3 vehicles all within $1000 of my original offer. You just have to be ready to walk until an acceptable medium is reached.
I bought my 1st ever 4X4 truck years ago by calling dealerships asking for the best out the door price. I never walked into a dealership or talked to a salesman until I actually picked up my new truck at the exact price they quoted. Now you can do that by email.

 

[Funkified]

I paid $40k for my 2019 Black Edition about 6 weeks ago near Charlotte. Also got several freebies previously installed by dealer. All i paid on top of the 40k was my state tax (500 maximum in s. Carolina) All other fees were included at 40k. Dealer still made a few bucks over invoice and hold back. I really didn't want black but they were dealing better than RTL-E.

damn thats cheap, being from canada the price differential has always been something that makes me cringe. i understand the dollar has a lot to do with it, but its been like that even if our dollar is comparable. 19' Black edition right now retails for a little over $54K CAD after taxes, freight and PDI. Thats a deal at full pop, but theres no way to get one under $50k unless theres a good rebate on it, which there isnt right now.

 

[Ice5]

Got mine last week same sticker ($42965) at $38500. Split the c/d player install cost. Had to take small financing thru Honda credit to get them at this price. Google USAA or CarMax websites to show what you can get for your area dealers. Got my tonneau cover shipped direct from College Hills Honda for $795 ttl, got my lighted step bars from Benardi Honda in Mass for $559 ttl. Both were easy to install with their on-line instruction pages. Word of note - your Honda dealer will press you to buy an extended warranty and their prices are very high -- your choice -- and good luck. Love the truck!

 

[Camino]

Got mine last week same sticker ($42965) at $38500....Had to take small financing thru Honda credit to get them at this price.

That's a very interesting tactic on their part. Is this a common practice among Honda dealers, to coerce you into financing thru Honda?

If so, it would mean you are at a price negotiating disadvantage if you just bring them a cashier's check (either because you are paying cash, or because you are getting your financing elsewhere).

I suppose the thinking is that the financing brings money into Honda, even if not into the new car sales department's coffers. But I wonder how insistent the new car sales manager would be on this point, if you insist on not financing through Honda and the new car sales department needed your vehicle to hit their incentive target for the month? If the sales manager is looking out for their own best interest, they'd just want the sale, regardless of the funding source, unless there's some tie between Honda financing and the new car sales department's monthly numbers?

And on a separate note, why do online sources show a $50 difference between MSRP+destination charges? In other words, some online sources show (for an RTL-E) $42915 and others show $42965, for MSRP+destination?

 

[mumbles]

damn thats cheap, being from canada the price differential has always been something that makes me cringe. i understand the dollar has a lot to do with it, but its been like that even if our dollar is comparable. 19' Black edition right now retails for a little over $54K CAD after taxes, freight and PDI. Thats a deal at full pop, but theres no way to get one under $50k unless theres a good rebate on it, which there isnt right now.

40k US = $ 52,800.00 CAN @ $ 1.32 exchange rate Plus tax

 

[Funkified]

40k US = $ 52,800.00 CAN @ $ 1.32 exchange rate Plus tax

your're absolutely right, as a snapshot in time at the current rate this is true. 1 month ago over xmas the rate was a staggering 1.39. My point is that the prices do not change with exchange rates, in fact, they do not change at all. I understand tariffs and taxes play a role in the pricing, but its too much.

In 2007, the USD to CAD rate peaked at 0.91 and was floating at par for most of the year. Canadians were winning for once, and many people bought in the US because of the $10K average price differential. So these days there are many G1 2006-2008 Ridgies floating around Canada that were from the US.

Sorry I'm just venting, it still grinds my gears lol.

As for the OP, isnt there a tool for you guys to sign up for that will show you dealer costs and all incentives and hold backs that are available at this time? You will def get a better deal on those old stockers, but they probably wont be selling it to you at a loss. I'd find out the cost of the vehicle and offer them $500 over that. Theyll try to get you in the finance office anyways with extra warranties and protection packages to make up the difference on the front end of the sale.