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Needed: 2006 caliper bottom bolt

2.8K views 12 replies 4 participants last post by  vortex ring state  
#1 · (Edited)
I guess I botched something because my friend mechanic told me last night that I lost a bottom caliper pin/bolt on the driver (front?) caliper. I consider myself lucky that this didn’t end up bad.

Anyway, does anyone know how to find the specs or part number for this bolt?

I understand it’s an option to take the bolt out of the other side and get the specs, but here are some possible options for me I will consider:

  • buy a bolt from a parts / JY RL.
  • buy some used calipers with the bolt(s)
  • buy new calipers if they include this bolt/pin
  • get the part number and buy a bolt and buy it online
  • find someone on eBay parting one out and send them this picture and ask them to send me a bolt.

I’m just looking for the simplest solution. New calipers might be smart because mine look like they were on the titanic.

Image
 
#3 ·
Ok. So no wonder a ridgeline’s brakes don’t give the warm and fuzzy feeling when towing a 5000 lbs trailer. They have the same front brakes as a TL or TLX Acura sedan?

AutoShack BC30184PR Pair of 2 Front Driver and Passenger Side Disc Brake Caliper Assembly with Bracket Replacement for 2009-2014 Acura TL 2015-2019 TLX 2006-2014 Honda Ridgeline 2.4L 3.5L 3.7L AWD FWD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GBDSPJQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8D0BTX3A6S8FXX600BRX
 
#4 ·
Seems like if these come with pads, the Callahan name is worth a few extra bucks over the autoshack.


Callahan CCK01016 [2] FRONT Premium Loaded OE Caliper Assembly Set + Quiet Low Dust Ceramic Brake Pads https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073GFQ7DP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_W4J1MV89E1WHKGZ3B4W5
 
#5 ·
Honda part number is 90107-S0X-000
Found on 99-04 Odyssey, 03-08 Pilot, and 06-14 Ridgeline.
Simplest solution would be to just go do your Honda dealer parts desk and pay the $3-4 for it.

DO NOT replace it with something from the hardware store.
 
#6 ·
So my replacement calipers arrived today.

I’ve been meaning to replace my brake fluid for years now. I really think it has NEVER been done, as I’m unaware of any scheduled maintenance that would require it. I’m pretty sure the brake fluid is pretty dirty looking and surely contaminated with moisture by now. My RL has lived outside since the day I bought it in 2005.

So I have only one question.

Should I replace the hoses?

And if so, what brand should I purchase?

Oh rotors too. I know a lot of replacement rotors are junk. So I’ve kept my originals going, knocking off chunks of rust around the outside edge too. I guess I will take a good look at my rotors to determine if they are usable or what.

My brakes have not inspires confidence in many years now. I think it may be due to the fluid, or perhaps the hoses are beginning to expand. I don’t know, but I don’t want to replace them with lesser-than-OEM-quality hoses. That’s for sure.
 
#7 ·
I'm no expert on whether or not the hoses need changing due to age of fluid, but I would think if there is internal corrosion to the extent requiring those hoses to be replaced, you may have bigger problems inside of ABS valves, etc.

Honda says replace brake fluid every 3 years (in fact maintenance minder #7 is supposed to go off at 3 years - not sure if that's on vintage 1G RL/Pilots or not), and recommends Honda DOT3 fluid.

I helped do a full brake job (rotors/pads), and fluid flush on my cousin's 2007 Accord this fall - the fluid looked like dark iced tea. I put Oreilly house-brand DOT3 in there. Old fluid was probably as old as the vehicle - doubt it has ever been changed before. She should be good for another 3-5 years.
If one were to actually flush the fluid regularly every 3 years, I doubt it would matter whether Honda fluid or something like Prestone was used.
Getting ready to do wifes 2019 Pilot soon, which popped up MM sub-item 7. I'll be using Honda DOT3 for it.

Anyhow, myself, I would just replace/flush the brake fluid, and see if the brakes feel firmer after the flush/bleed.
1. remove as much fluid as possible from master cylinder reservoir, i.e. turkey baster, and replace with fresh fluid,
2. flush each wheel bleed port (starting from front driver's side wheel, clockwise) until clean fluid is flowing, while checking and keeping cylinder topped of in-between.
 
#8 ·
I'm no expert on whether or not the hoses need changing due to age of fluid,.
It looks like if I put together a $49 purchase, the brake hoses from ECS tuning will be only about $35.

I think I’m going to order hoses today. Perhaps I should make sure the fitting can be broken loose on the hardline side before I purchase though. I recall another member not replacing due to the concern of twisting the hard line. These trucks can be pretty corroded under there, and I don’t want to turn this into a project of replacing all the hard lines.
 
#11 ·
Ya, I'm going to leave mine alone. Sleeping dogs and all that.

OP, it's been my experience that brake hose fail by swelling shut and not exploding catastrophically. My experience is based on much older cars, I don't know how much rubber formulations changed since then or how it has affected failure modes or their lifespan. Here is a picture of 50 year old hoses I cut. Completely shut, not even 120psi shop air could go through it. Now, before they completely swell shut they will start to act as a one way valve. So, your brakes start to stick.

Mine are only 10 years old and I am not worried about running those. That being said, if my fittings were cooperating I would replace mine just cause it's simple and cheap.
 
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