Not possible to do yourself.

 

Not possible to do yourself.

Thanks, Guess I'll have to take it in.

 

They should give you a free tank of gas for having to drive back to get something that was supposed to be done. Wonder what else they didn't do? (PDI is obviously suspect).

 

Hi,

New Ridgeline and I'm trying to figure it all out. Got it two days ago and today noticed that only one of the key fobs works. The one that doesn't work lights up when you press a button, but the Ridgeline does not respond. Put a fresh battery in, but it didn't help.

Been Googling how to program a Honda remote, but none of what comes up has worked. One page I found said the dealer has to do it. I've got a 150 mile round trip to the dealer, so I'd prefer to do it myself, if possible.

Jan

Did you set the memory for that second fob? Which button did you press expecting something to happen? Lock/unlock/remote start? Is the memory light on for that second fob? A little more detail may save you a trip to the dealer.

 

Did you set the memory for that second fob? Which button did you press expecting something to happen? Lock/unlock/remote start? Is the memory light on for that second fob? A little more detail may save you a trip to the dealer.

I'm new to Honda and Ridgeline and have no idea what you are talking about. Please tell me what to look for/do. I've been going through the owner's manual and w/respect to the key fobs I only see memory w/respect to seat positions. Since we got a Sport, we have manual seats and this seems to be irrelevant to our vehicle, and also to basic key fob function. Dealer said they would set up both keys.

None of the buttons do anything. The indicator light on the fob lights, but the vehicle does not respond.

 

OK, thanks for the detail. If the lock or unlock do not work, the dealer will need to program the truck to the fob.

 

Thanks! Appt w/dealer is Monday.

 

For all wanting to program their own key fob...I just did it on my 2023 RTL-E. Look at the photo, pretty much all you need is detailed there. The keys came with the uncut blade key as well! It was super easy to program once I figured out that my dumb a** had in my pocket the new key AND the original key for my CR-V in my pocket...couldn't figure out why it kept saying "key programming failed" 🤷‍♂️ The Launch cReader for Honda is the one recently posted about on Amazon, about $120 delivered as I recall.

Also, if you don't have the little tag that came with your keys with the code on it for cutting the blade key...an easy way to get the code is from the tailgate emergency release door cover. Just remove the cover and pop off the retainer...the serial number is stamped on the side in (on mine) tiny faint numbers.

Ed

The insides don't "look" too cheap...time will tell.

 

I just lost the fob to my 2023 RTL-E. I have the backup so I can drive. Dealer in Houston wants big bucks. Local locksmith says codes are secret for newer models and have to use the dealer. I can't tell from your post what you did. Can you give step by step instructions? Thanks

 

It will be interesting to see how long those aftermarket Chinese clone remotes last.

How does the cost of the programmer compare to the cost for a dealer to program a new remote?

 

Well, just the remote fob is $60-$80 (likely without the blade key) depending on the dealer and even programming at a local locksmith, I was quoted $90 minimum. So, not only having a decent Honda OBDII tool, I can program keys on BOTH my Hondas. I would say the cost was minimal.

 

Today I had the key blades laser cut at a local locksmith. The dealer (where I bought two new vehicles) wouldn't even give me a price because I didn't buy them (keys) from them..."liability" the claim?? Anyway, locksmith cut them for $35 each. Interestingly they had no use for the key codes/lock serial numbers. Their machine simply, and awesomely, did a precise CNC locating of the original key cuts and transferred the cut to the new key...a thing of beauty to watch! I now have two additional (3 total) fully functioning remotes including the blade keys. The total cost (if you don't count the OBDII reader which I needed anyway) was less than $122 for both fobs.

 

Im still learning all the stuff this scanner does..tpms, keys..
was it pretty easyto add key?
here is the scanner.. same ne you used?

https://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/threads/finally-a-good-2-way-scanner-bargain-launch-x431-all-hondas-and-acuras.241034/#post-3356094

 

Yes. Look for the immobilizer selection that asks if you want to add a Honda Smart key...if you don't see "Smart Key" back up and keep perusing the options till it pops up. Lots of on and off with the ignition but eventually it was successful adding a key.

 

Did you say the Amazon Honda programmer also does Toyota?
FYI, the local Honda dealer in Houston charged $280 for a replacement FOB and key, that was discounted from $320.

 

No. However it looks like you can plug the scanner into your home computer and download any number of specific models or tasks. Of course at a cost. However, as I understand it, the specific vehicle you originally bought it for is the only data that remains forever as of the last update performed within the 1 year. Any additional vehicle data sets downloaded will expire and become unusable after one year and you will need to "re-subscribe" as they call it. Still, even @ $35 (discounted) or $60 retail, the program would probably pay for itself performing just one task.

 

First I bought this...LAUNCH X431 (I know it's expensive but it will do so much more than program keys and if you keep the RL for a long time, it will pay for itself) Then I purchased keys from LocksmithKeyless It's a bit involved getting to the immobilizer menu of the reader but look for the "Add a Smart Key" option and go from there... the instructions are convoluted and it took me several tries but eventually it programmed successfully. Then I took out the cut key from my existing remote and took the new blank key to a local locksmith and using an expensive CNC key machine she probed the original key and then the machine matched/applied the cut to the blank perfectly.
Honestly, I'm just repeating everything that is in the previous posts...I don't know what more I can add.

 

First I bought this...LAUNCH X431 (I know it's expensive but it will do so much more than program keys and if you keep the RL for a long time, it will pay for itself)

Hi I just joined the ROC club last month and picked up a 25 RL BE, unfortunately, it only came with 1 key, and dealer is quoting almost $400. I am thinking of purchasing the Launch X431 and program keys myself. Do you recall if it will give the ability to program keys for Driver 1 and Driver 2?

Thanks

 

A lot of time and hassle to me to save a few bucks. I just went to the dealer. Got the OEM Fob, cut and programmed in an hour while I sipped a latte in the air conditioned waiting room and finished some work on my phone. Done right, no worries. Sometimes it pays to pay. They washed the truck too.

 

Oh, sorry. including all taxes, out the door for $310

 

This video walks through how to use the X431 to add a key for Honda/Acura:

 

Here's a random FOB question: I need to get a replacement fob for my 2022 rtle. Plan to order from amazon and have local locksmith program/cut it. I'm seeing several different model numbers for the fobs though.

Does the model number matter as long as it has the right buttons?

72147-T6Z-A61 is the OEM model that I should have for my 2022. What about 72147-T6Z-A11, which is listed as being for 2017-2019? The shell and buttons are the same, but are the guts different enough that they won't work on my 2022?

 

72147-T6Z-A61 is the OEM model that I should have for my 2022. What about 72147-T6Z-A11, which is listed as being for 2017-2019? The shell and buttons are the same, but are the guts different enough that they won't work on my 2022?

I don't think they are compatible. The FCC ID is different between these two.

Year(s)	Honda P/N	FCC ID
2017-2019	72147-T6Z-A11	KR5V2X
2022	72147-T6Z-A61	KR5T41

You should match FCC ID to get the same fob. You can find the FCC ID inside the case when you open it to change the battery.

Also, you will need to program the vehicle to accept the fob- it's not just a matter of getting the key cut.

 

While I didn't do that, I assume each programmed key will be able to be assigned by simply holding down the driver 1 or 2 button while the newly programmed key is the only key in range. The car will remember the key. It is not something that you program into the key is my opinion.

 

I have a "new" fob issue that I would like some of you old timers to comment on. Last year, I had an issue that I posted under the thread "keyless start system problem". I ended up going to the dealer where I had to get my control unit replaced. The main reason was because you have to have the control unit "registered" and the cost of buying a Launch or other unit that could do the registration didn't make sense, based on the price of the parts and the applicable service bulletin that listed the labor hours to do the work. I ranted at the time because the dealer charged 150% of the Honda list price for the parts and many multiples of the time required by the service bulletin to do the work and my truck came out with a more expensive repair needed to the radar unit that it went in with. All that aside, I didn't notice any issues with my primary fob until I went to use my backup fob and it didn't work at all. Of course, I changed the battery and scratched my head when that didn't work and then I started doubting that the fob was still operable. In the course of my investigation, I found that neither key blade from either the secondary fob or the primary fob will work in the door lock. Of course, contrary to some posts on the forum, I already knew that the 2017 RTL-E key was an electronic rather than a mechanical switch, but I had no idea that it had to be also programmed to work in the new controller. My question is: do the rest of you know this? The dealer. Rairdon's Honda of Sumner (WA) never mentioned the key blade, which they had the whole time and also never mentioned the secondary fob, which I didn't have with me at the time. So now I have one fob that's useless completely, one fob that works and two keys that lock and open the in bed storage space and the glove box but don't work at all in the door locks.
A friend of mine, who worked for Honda for a while, told me I should write a complaint letter to Honda detailing my experience with Honda of Sumner but I am skeptical that I will get a response. Any thoughts?

 

I seriously doubt Honda will do anything for you. It's a dealer issue.

My advice is to just go somewhere else and try to get whatever problems you need resolved. That dealer won't give you the satisfaction.

 

Well, I guess this issue didn't generate any comments except from stevem5215. Honda makes a good truck but they sure want everything to be proprietary and want you to go through the dealerships. It's too bad that there are people on this forum that want to tell you that you can't do it yourself and that you have to go to a dealer or locksmith or "somewhere else".

 

Owners don't lose or damage enough key fobs often enough to make selling them a significant revenue stream for automakers. And, not a single cent of the labor to program vehicles to recognize new replacement key fobs goes to the automakers - that all stays at the independently-owned dealership.

The more likely reason is that the key fobs and the electronics that they communicate with are designed and manufactured by outside suppliers who provide those products for many automakers. The basic feature set is determined by the supplier. Each automaker has different owner interfaces and factory scan tools, so the exact procedure to associate key fobs with vehicles varies.

For example, let's say Continental supplied the keyless access system components. Continental may include the ability for owners to program keys, but someone else would have to write vehicle-specific code to accomplish this. Honda may have already paid someone to include this functionality in their factory scan tool software for dealers to use, but they may have also determined it's not worth spending more money on paying another supplier to integrate this into the vehicle's software so that owners can accomplish the same thing.

This is in contrast to Tesla, for example, who designs and manufactures most of their own electronics. They have much more control over how each subsystem works independently and together since they design their own hardware and software. This is how Tesla can sell replacement key cards for $20 each and allow owners to program them themselves literally in a matter of seconds. Of course, you rarely even need a physical key card since your smartphone or watch is intended to serve as the primary key.

 

Owners don't lose or damage enough key fobs often enough to make selling a significant revenue stream for automakers. And, not a single cent of the labor to program vehicles to recognize new replacement key fobs goes to the automakers - that all stays at the independently-owned dealership.

The more likely reason is that the key fobs and the electronics that they communicate with are designed and manufactured by outside suppliers who provide those products for many automakers. The basic feature set is determined by the supplier. Each automaker has different owner interfaces and factory scan tools, so the exact procedure to associate key fobs with vehicles varies.

For example, let's say Continental supplied the keyless access system components. Continental may include the ability for owners to program keys, but someone else would have to write vehicle-specific code to accomplish this. Honda may have already paid someone to include this functionality in their factory scan tool software for dealers to use, but they may have also determined it's not worth spending more money on paying another supplier to integrate this into the vehicle's software so that owners can accomplish the same thing.

This is in contrast to Tesla, for example, who designs and manufactures most of their own electronics. They have much more control over how each subsystem works independently and together since they design their own hardware and software. This is how Tesla can sell replacement key cards for $20 each and allow owners to program them themselves literally in a matter of seconds. Of course, you rarely even need a physical key card since your smartphone or watch is intended to service as the primary key.

Thanks zroger73. As usual you are very informative and perceptive.