Re: Dash Cam

I didn't install the dash cam. but i did hard wire my V1 radar. red wire is hot and black went with black on my radar. but the funning thing is that the plug has to be plug into the mirror to have power. took me a long time to figure that out. i was testing all the wire with a volt meter. but none of them gave me power b/c the plug wasn't plug into the mirror

 

Re: Dash Cam

Here is a install on a 2017 Pilot, might have some usable info for the RL.

2017 Pilot Front & Rear Dashcam / Dash cam install (AWD Touring) - Honda Pilot - Honda Pilot Forums

 

Re: Dash Cam



Congrats with your E and good luck with it. AFAIK you have 3 options. Tap into the homelink by the mirror, use add a fuse and hard wire to the fuse box or just use the cigarette lighter. On the Accord forum someone did a nice install. I have the wedge dash cam on my Accord using the cigarette lighter method, works great.

Official Dash Camera Thread - Page 5 - Drive Accord Honda Forums

 

Dash Camera--GoPro type.

I need recommendations for a good/the best camera for my BE. I was backed into yesterday and a camera would have been perfect. It happened so quickly, I didn't have time to even blow my dinky little horn.

New bumper, turn signal light, fog light, and front fascia is in order. The guy that backed in to me had a warrant and he was cuffed and jailed.:surprise:

 

Not sure how a camera would stopped that from happening. You were not the backer, you were the backee. Other then your phone to take pictures. After the fact. By Law in CT. You have to have insurance. BUT every time I've been hit the jackass doesn't have any. Ya, he gets a ticket and then my insurance pays. And I get the black check mark in the ins books. Since we have NO VAULT INS. What a joke.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

Ouch!
After reading up on cameras I just got a VIOFO A119 and installed it this weekend. Very impresseed with quality for about $100!
I just watched my last trip on the viewer software. WoW! It powers up when the truck comes on and off at shutdown. Looks like I won't need to mess with it much at all, until I want to view.

Here are the complete details (before someone asks):

I mounted it to the Left of the mirror/radar assembly on my RTL-E. I made sure that the camera lens is just below the windshield "dots." It is hardly visable at all from inside or outside of truck. I can't see the unit at all when driving, since it lives behind the mirror. Nor does it block my normal view.
I snaked cable up along the mirror/radar mount and across headliner, then down driver door gasket to the fusebox. I used the empty "Fuse position 30" that I had already tapped for my flashlight.

Make sure that you get the one with the GPS option included. It adds a lot to playback, as it automatically maps your position, speed, etc. The GPS is actually part of the mounting base for the camera.

I had never heard of the company, but I can see how it is so highly rated for the price range.

Here are the parts:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M28B92C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXC2329/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012PMDSYU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MEI10I4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-...J1HC1R5GSGRSMXZD&pd_rd_w=wSXht&pd_rd_wg=gXivJ&psc=1&refRID=4MGRJ1HC1R5GSGRSMXZD

Hope this isn't TMI, but it may help someone, without picking it out from a 20 page thread!

Enjoy safely!

 

Here are the parts:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M28B92C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXC2329/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012PMDSYU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MEI10I4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-...J1HC1R5GSGRSMXZD&pd_rd_w=wSXht&pd_rd_wg=gXivJ&psc=1&refRID=4MGRJ1HC1R5GSGRSMXZD

Hope this isn't TMI, but it may help someone, without picking it out from a 20 page thread!

Enjoy safely!

Hey Scooter I went along with your parts suggestion and when I received the Rexing hardware kit it came with a fuse blade adapter already as part of the positive terminal. Is this what you received? I plan on removing it and installing the other adapter as it can take two fuses while the one already in place can not and would need to be installed in an empty fuse location.

 

Your post caught me while I was finishing up my install. Here are some pictures. Hope this gives you guys some ideas. Note: You can't see the video screen on the unit when driving with this mounting position, but I don't think that you really need to. I do my viewing on my PC at home.

 

Many thanks ScooterS. I will check it out.

 

Sorry to hear about your BE. Cameras are all the rage now but remember that they work both ways. The footage can prove a driver's innocence or prove guilt.

 

Yeah! More than likely, I wouldn't show the video if it was my fault!

 

I have the ddpai m6+. It's a good camera. For the price it is the best, but it has one serious drawback if it is of any concern. I only found out AFTER I bought it that ddPAI is owned by Huawei... which is a Chinese company with ties to the military. And Huawei is known for nefarious software activity. But still their dash cams get raves from those who don't care.

For $106 it is a good price. I might try to find a different one, just due to the Huawei ties.

But on the good side, it has a swivel magnetic base and a wi-fi viewing app. Plus parking mode, which after 5 minutes captures 1 frame per seconds. It also has a remote button that you can place anywhere, when you push it, it will capture high quality still shots diretly to your phone.

The swivel base only swivels 30 degrees, but if you orient it just right on the windshield, you are able to twist it far enough to catch the edge of the driver's window. This type of mount is the best I could find to work around the over-abundance of black dot shading Honda has in the top of the window.

At the moment, I continue to use it... but I have blocked the app from Location, and Cell. And I work around it for the time being. They are replacing it with the M4+ which is black.

Here is the Amazon Link.
https://www.amazon.com/DDPai-M6-plu...F7A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1490025578&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=ddpai+m6+plus&psc=1

 

Nervey,
Is this only recording while you are driving? Or do you have to set it to record each time you get into the truck?

 

As the new owner of a dash cam, and an auto electronics challenged owner, can any forum member suggest an ideal constant-on 12v location to hard wire to for all time power? My impression is the fuse box located to the left of the steering wheel, but what fused location would fit my need? Any help appreciated, as I don't want to deal with the cigarette lighter power source and the trailing power cord up over the dash. Thanks, in advance! :wink:

 

If you want a constant-on circuit, just plug in the pigtail they gave your for the brake controller. It is already fused and no "tapping" is required.

If you want it switched, use the circuit for the fuse position that I listed above. It is unused, has a switched circuit, and you can just plug the fuse tap that I listed in my first post.

 

I'll have to look again, I think I stole the power seats fuse position from the cabin fuse box (in the postion you mention, left of the emergency brake). I bought a "Add a fuse" (a fuse tap) and it made the whole thing simple. I used (again, I think) the seat position it because it is a 20 amp position, and I rarely need to readjust my seats... so if I blow that fuse, I won't be affected too much.

You need find out how much amperage your cam draws. Mine is 1.7 amps. 1.7 amps deviation on a 20 amp circuit "shouldn't" be an issue. So I piggybacked a 3 amp "add a fuse" to that 20 amp position.

My dash cam stays on constantly. After 5 minutes of no motion it switches to PARK mode which turns into 1 frame a second.

I'll verify later tonight. Where that exactly is for you.

 

Thanks, Nervey! Hadn't been aware of a fuse tap. Seems to be the way to go and it's a close location for a short wire run to the dash cam, too. Looking to your reply as to which fuse block position you used. Was your tap an ATM or ATO style tap?. I'm thinking ATO, by the size of the fuse 'legs'.

 

Nervey,
Memphis is hot as FOOK in the summer. Humidity so bad you instantly break out into a sweat. Internal car temps 110-120 easily if not more.

Is one better than the other for hot interior car temps?

How much wiring is involved in hooking these up to the Trucks power? Easy for a novice?

 

Nervey,
Memphis is hot as FOOK in the summer. Humidity so bad you instantly break out into a sweat. Internal car temps 110-120 easily if not more. Is one better than the other for hot interior car temps? How much wiring is involved in hooking these up to the Trucks power? Easy for a novice?

Exactly as @ScooterS said... you want a camera with a capacitor and not a battery. Most are going that direction now. The Viofo has a capacitor. My m6+ is capacitor, my mini is not (they have new for both M4+ and Mini2... and the Thinkware and BlackVues are capacitor).

As for wiring. The way the headliner and weather stripping are on the Honda, it is some of the simplest things to do to wire it up. Watch this the next time you're on the throne. You really don't need to remove the panel like this guy does, and you can skip the whole "FIND WHAT FUSE" part as we list the decent spots in this post.
Dash Cam Hard Wire 2016 Pilot


Buy this sort of stuff:

​

A fuse tap: The Honda fuses are known as LOW-PROFILE fuses.​

This particular kit comes with a low amp fuse (3 amp) that you will need:​

https://www.amazon.com/Shipping-CIRCUIT-BLADE-PROFILE-FUSETAP/dp/B00K17A2E6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1490394311​

A USB hard wire kit: If you get a camera that will be powered constantly (for parking mode), you want a version of this with low car-battery protection. Buy the USB end (e.g. USB-C) you need for the chosen camera. I like the below, because I can select how low to protect the battery... and it also has a timed-off feature if you want it. (this one comes with the fuse tap)​

Amazon.com: Dash Cam Hardwire Kit, USB C 3-Wire Dashcam Hardwire Kit 24h Parking Mode Dash Camera Charger Power Cord 11.5ft 12-24V to 5V/1-3A Low Voltage Protection with Fuse Tap for Dashcam, GPS, Radar (Type C) : Electronics

Buy Dash Cam Hardwire Kit, USB C 3-Wire Dashcam Hardwire Kit 24h Parking Mode Dash Camera Charger Power Cord 11.5ft 12-24V to 5V/1-3A Low Voltage Protection with Fuse Tap for Dashcam, GPS, Radar (Type C): On-Dash Cameras - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Cable tie: Or a piece of wire or something to tie your extra-slack of wire together when you're done.​

Basic Steps:

• Mount your camera and plug in the power block (hard wire kit)... use your fingers to stuff it into the headliner... all the way to the driver door pillar
• Then stuff it in the rubber seal of the pillar down to your dash area.
• You crimp (or solder) on the fuse tap wire... to the red wire of the hardware kit.
• Find a screw/bolt in metal that you can attach the ground wire to.
• The fuse then just plugs into a fuse slot and spits it into two. Put the original fuse in main slot... and the small fuse for camera in the other slot, I utilized the SEAT RECLINE (#15) fuse position of the box under the dash, for no reason other than I'm more than willing to give up reclining temporarily if the camera blows a fuse. You could also use the rear sliding window (if you have one) but remember that stays on for 10 mins after shutting off or until the door is opened.
• Coil up all of the extra and tie it up into to an available spot under the dash.

Done. I truly am not oversimplifying it... that much

 

I understand that you should use one that holds internal power via capacitors instead of batteries in hot weather. The one that I reviewed uses capacitors.

 

Agreed with Nervey! I've had a lot of projects that have been more complicated than expected. This one was easier.

 

I also bought the A119S just need to install the hard wire

 

I don't know if you have an adaptor, but the wiring that I bought from Amazon (see post) worked great for me. Plenty of line to get to the fusebox.

 

I am going to have to try this mod. Thanks!

 

PetDoc: I don't know much about the options. However, I used these to help me make my decision:

 

CAUTION!!! INCORRECT INFORMATION

I just received my "A119" It is a "Spy Tech" NOT a "Viofo". Will check on camera and ratings and may keep or return it.

((That's what happens when you order a "Bargin" on your IPhone in the Doctor's Waiting Room and can't check the details.

Will update post as soon as I look at it.

*****RED ALERT******

The Viofo A119 is on sale on Amazon for $79.95.

This is $20 less than I paid a couple of weeks ago. Check posts near the start of this thread for more information on this camera. ((I just ordered another one for the "other" car)).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HN0HBFG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Enjoy Safely!

 

At quick look, this appears to be a rebranded VIOFO A119. Will give it a thorough check tomorrow.

 

If you go to this review (https://dashcamtalk.com/a119/) and scroll near bottom "Where to buy for best price" you will see VioFo sold from SpyTec in US.

 

If buying the Viofo and speed and location are important, be sure you get the one that includes the GPS module, otherwise it's another 20 bux to add it on later. I bought the newer A119S over the A119 cause I wanted the Sony image sensor. I like it so far.

 

If you go to SpyTec's web site there is a $20 premium for the 119s (109.95) vs the 119 (89.95). The Amazon link for SpyTec's camera priced at $79.95 is for the 119 and $10 cheaper than you can purchase it from them. I assume the "s" stands for the Sony image sensor. I wonder if they are trying to clear out the 119 inventory to make room for the 119s?

 

Sorry to hit the panic button last night, but I wanted to post immediately, in case people were purchasing based on my post. I didn't know whether the one I got was a rebranded Viofo or a cheap knock-off.

As best I can tell, this is the Viofo A119 with a Spy Tec label on it. The only difference that I see is the packaging, label, and splash screen. The default settings also appear to be US.

It does come with the GPS base and all the other parts as my Viofo.

I successfully swapped the two units on the GPS base, so it looks like all is interchangable (YMMV!).

Thanks all for jumping in!

Hope this helps some get a bit of a bargin and sorry for the confusion.

 

Oh yeah....... Amazon Prime offers "same day" delivery at no charge in my area on many items. I ordered mine after breakfast and it was on my doorstep around dinner time!

It was interesting. Some of the accessories (power tap/cable, etc) were not available same day. When I put them all on the same bill, everything went to 2 day shipment.
I then deleted the camera and put it on a seperate order to get same day. Easey Peasy!

This was all prime same day, not prime now.....

 

I have the A119 installed in my Jeep works excellent. What happens is that the display shuts down after a while but it is still recording. I have it wired to continuous power so that it activates on motion. What good is the camera turning on if you miss something like being backed into.
I plan to install the A119 again in my Ridgeline as it works so well...

 

Looks like the VIOFO A119(S) is pretty popular! I've been using one in my Ridgeline as well that I'm very pleased with (A119S - version 2). I've been meaning to order another one for the Civic Si, but haven't yet. I don't know what I'm waiting on. In the time it took to type this post I could have done so.