[smuook]

So far, so good. I inspected them yesterday after 1 week and everything is secure with no leaks. I blead them again to be sure no trapped air got knocked loose. I'd say they they play nice with the Ridgeline. No complaints. I will be towing my RV in early October. By that time I will have several weeks with them and be able to put them to the test. I will write a more detailed review at that time.

 

[stevem5215]

Let us know if you get any pusations on the brake pedal. That would be my reason to want to upgrade to this setup. I think the Honda brakes while adequate are just like the rest of the truck. Adequate design and parts implementation without over capacity design.

 

[smuook]

Let us know if you get any pusations on the brake pedal. That would be my reason to want to upgrade to this setup. I think the Honda brakes while adequate are just like the rest of the truck. Adequate design and parts implementation without over capacity design.

Will do. I want more time to say for sure, but so far I have experienced zero pulsation with the Rotoras.

 

[SunshineRubio]

I'm so happy to see something has appeared for the G2 for better braking 😭 , I canyon carve mine and I need to check they will clear my 20" KMC wheels. I was waiting on Goodwin racing but now I'm also seeing a whisper about the 22 MDX type S potentially having some brembos that should work?

 

[smuook]

It is good to have options. Let us know what you go with and results.

 

[smufguy]

I'm so happy to see something has appeared for the G2 for better braking 😭 , I canyon carve mine and I need to check they will clear my 20" KMC wheels. I was waiting on Goodwin racing but now I'm also seeing a whisper about the 22 MDX type S potentially having some brembos that should work?

Due to the nature of the OEM Brembos on Hondas, the price is astronomical. I suspect the MDX-S would be no different than the TLX-S brakes.
If you are not in a hurry, I would say wait till Brian gets his wilwood setup sorted out and priced.
Rotora is an option, but there are limitations to it as well.

If you can get your hands on a Hyundai Genesis Coupe R front calipers, they are direct bolt on. However, they are virtually impossible to find new/remanufactured and getting them from a wrecker is astronomical in price as well.

 

[SunshineRubio]

Due to the nature of the OEM Brembos on Hondas, the price is astronomical. I suspect the MDX-S would be no different than the TLX-S brakes.
If you are not in a hurry, I would say wait till Brian gets his wilwood setup sorted out and priced.
Rotora is an option, but there are limitations to it as well.

If you can get your hands on a Hyundai Genesis Coupe R front calipers, they are direct bolt on. However, they are virtually impossible to find new/remanufactured and getting them from a wrecker is astronomical in price as well.

I see calipers on oriellys like 300$ reman, I had heard they aren't bolt ons but I'm cool with being wrong on this🤣. I wish the FK8 type R calipers were bolt ons as well. I'll wait till at least Brian gets sorted out, in the meantime I need to grab up the ducktail spoiler, a CCFABLAB sway bar, and a north mountain tonneau cover 😎

 

[smufguy]

I see calipers on oriellys like 300$ reman, I had heard they aren't bolt ons but I'm cool with being wrong on this🤣. I wish the FK8 type R calipers were bolt ons as well. I'll wait till at least Brian gets sorted out, in the meantime I need to grab up the ducktail spoiler, a CCFABLAB sway bar, and a north mountain tonneau cover 😎

Dont want to deter from the concept of this thread, but you are welcome to read the post and the entire thread (below link) if you like

Another G2 brake upgrade discussion!

I think many of us feel that the brakes on our G2s are less than exceptional. I know that I do. The pedal feels a bit "mushy" to me, even after having the system bled twice to get rid of the gray "sludge" from the factory. They fade a bit when hauling heavy loads or trailering. I have PM'd a...

www.ridgelineownersclub.com

 

[SunshineRubio]

I'll take a peek, I'm glad knowledge is starting to accumulate on this platform

 

[SunshineRubio]

Smurf,
I grabbed some pics of my current clearance of the front caliper I feel like I could fit some sizable calipers

I may go hunt down a better measuring device 🤣 mine is a bit beat up.
Used a different tool and I was getting 23mm clear on the rear of the caliper and 38mm on the front part

 

[smuook]

I did a rough measurement like this when I started. From stock caliper face to front spoke I measured 1.75". Now I am at about 0.7" with the Rotoras. So I lost a little over an inch of space.

 

[SunshineRubio]

I did a rough measurement like this when I started. From stock caliper face to front spoke I measured 1.75". Now I am at about 0.7" with the Rotoras. So I lost a little over an inch of space.

Nice then it appears I'd be ok if I went this route, I just want to fill that wheel space with some caliper and rotor 🤤 I send mine pretty hard to and from work and once week I'll take it up to 95+ when the bigger trucks think they can just give me taillights 🤣

 

[smufguy]

Oem caliper to wheel spoke clearance is dictated by your hat height and the rotor thickness.
Thing is, rotors with the same hat height, but different thickness, will place the caliper in different positions m(axially) from the upright/knuckle.
Additionally, rotors with the same hat height AND thickness, could have a different rotor diameter (380mm vs 355mm) that would place the caliper in a different position radially.
Axial = parallel to the axle
Radial = perpendicular to the axle

With a larger hat height, you are also placing the inner friction surface of the rotor closer to the lower control arm. At 51mm hat height on my G1, I am very very close to the lower control arm and the 53mm would def make contact. Stock is 47mm, fyi.

That said, the only way to really understand what wheels would clear your suspension, is to follow the brake fitment guide/template.

Wilwood narrow calipers are still too wide to clear OEM wheels, when utilizing your OEM brake rotors. this shows how narrow the two piston sliding calipers are.

 

[SunshineRubio]

Oem caliper to wheel spoke clearance is dictated by your hat height and the rotor thickness.
Thing is, rotors with the same hat height, but different thickness, will place the caliper in different positions m(axially) from the upright/knuckle.
Additionally, rotors with the same hat height AND thickness, could have a different rotor diameter (380mm vs 355mm) that would place the caliper in a different position radially.
Axial = parallel to the axle
Radial = perpendicular to the axle

With a larger hat height, you are also placing the inner friction surface of the rotor closer to the lower control arm. At 51mm hat height on my G1, I am very very close to the lower control arm and the 53mm would def make contact. Stock is 47mm, fyi.

That said, the only way to really understand what wheels would clear your suspension, is to follow the brake fitment guide/template.

Wilwood narrow calipers are still too wide to clear OEM wheels, when utilizing your OEM brake rotors. this shows how narrow the two piston sliding calipers are.

I'm on KMC 700s 20x9+35 I'll probably run these for a LONG time as the price can't hardly be beat. They seem to have a good chunk of clearance

 

[FrayAdjacent]

Nice fitmentationalization.

(using "fitment" when "fit" is appropriate always bothered me for some reason)

 

[smuook]

Since the Rotora instructions doesn't talk about the parking brake, here is short addendum to help with this. Unlike some other Honda models, the adjustment barrel is at the 12 O'clock position. This sets the at-rest default position when parking brake is not applied. It has a spring on top of it that rests between the teeth on the barrel - so it acts like a ratchet and "clicks" in position. Move it down, and the shoes contract. Move it up, the shoes expand.

When you take the stock rotor off, rotate the barrel fully down or contracted. Pro tip - lift the spring up and you can quickly do this by hand. Leave it this way until brakes are done and ready to install wheel.

With the wheel off, rotor installed, and the rubber grommet removed from rotor, make sure the service hole is in the 12 O'clock position. Stick a screwdriver in the service hole and flick it up 10 or so clicks until you feel it have some resistance (shoes contacting drum). Then back of 2 or 3 clicks.

Install wheel and remember to tighten lugs!

For other side, still back off the adjustment barrel. Then just remember final click position and set it their.

Test the emergency brake positive engagement in acceptable distance - pedal should be well above the floor (half travel or so)

Go drink a beer.

 

[smuook]

Did my first towing trip with the new brake kit. Short 90 minute trip to north Georgia foothills. Got some good hills in with a few long braking descents. Brakes were superb and no fading. Never any doubts and had confident control the entire time. Now that I've had the for a few weeks I can say I am very happy with them. The only comment I have, and this is really nit picky, is that I have a very low humming when braking in reverse. Just enough to know the pads are there but not annoying and no squeaks. Other than that they are silent.

Other side note - 6 speed transmission was great. Highest temp I saw was 201F. Almost kept it under 200F the entire time. If it wasnt for the stop and go due to an accident I would have. I switched to Amsoil Signature synthetic ATF and has been running great. Aftermarket cooler and driving in D4 does the trick.

 

[compprep]

The Motor Week review showed 60-0 in 121 ft. in their stopping tests with the stock brakes, but Consumer Reports has it at 134 feet. Big difference. If you improved it by 14 ft., or the 18 ft. in your own test, that's great.

Interesting how they are so far apart. I wouldn't call my test scientific and I didn't do multiple runs - but I do think it show the relevant improvement in braking distance performance. To be honest, I wasn't expecting a huge decrease here. The stock brakes aren't that bad, although they do give vibration when you hit them hard which is a little unnerving - they still stop the vehicle in a reasonable distance imo. The RL is still a good size vehicle and is not going to stop on a dime. I think the real difference will be less brake fade when towing - its those long downhill stops from high speed that concern me. I will be towing later this week and will get to put it to the true test for the first time! I will say so far that there is no vibration in the rotoras whatsoever. The are very quiet as well. Only noise is when backing out of my driveway. It is a good down slope and have to ride the brakes to ease out of my driveway. More review to come...

Yes I'm LATE to this but, I can 100% guarantee the truck MW and CR tested DID NOT have 265/45-20 tires. Plus a few stops isn't what OP is concerned about. He's concerned about towing/slowing on long downhill runs. Try doing say 5 - 6 max effort stops from 60-70 MPH and the difference will be much more dramatic I'd imagine.



 

[SunshineRubio]

Did my first towing trip with the new brake kit. Short 90 minute trip to north Georgia foothills. Got some good hills in with a few long braking descents. Brakes were superb and no fading. Never any doubts and had confident control the entire time. Now that I've had the for a few weeks I can say I am very happy with them. The only comment I have, and this is really nit picky, is that I have a very low humming when braking in reverse. Just enough to know the pads are there but not annoying and no squeaks. Other than that they are silent.

Other side note - 6 speed transmission was great. Highest temp I saw was 201F. Almost kept it under 200F the entire time. If it wasnt for the stop and go due to an accident I would have. I switched to Amsoil Signature synthetic ATF and has been running great. Aftermarket cooler and driving in D4 does the trick.

I may have to switch to amsol atf too with how I drive 🤣 what cooler did you add or a link to the thread?

 

[smuook]

The Motor Week review showed 60-0 in 121 ft. in their stopping tests with the stock brakes, but Consumer Reports has it at 134 feet. Big difference. If you improved it by 14 ft., or the 18 ft. in your own test, that's great.




Yes I'm LATE to this but, I can 100% guarantee the truck MW and CR tested DID NOT have 265/45-20 tires. Plus a few stops isn't what OP is concerned about. He's concerned about towing/slowing on long downhill runs. Try doing say 5 - 6 max effort stops from 60-70 MPH and the difference will be much more dramatic I'd imagine.



Spot on. I cant speak to those tests and how they measured (interesting mine are close to MW numbers though). I would not call my results scientific by any means as I did it by myself and only 1 pass. So although my final numbers are questionable, the relative difference between the two is useful imo. I would also say the stock brakes would clearly go into the antiskid pulsating mode where I have yet to feel that with the Rotoras. I'm not sure I pressed them hard enough to determine their true capability and I think there is more stopping power there. It is kinda scary intentionally stomping on the brakes as hard as I can for fear of braking something. Im at the point of being good with knowing they are better (which was the goal)... and leaving well enough alone.