RTL-T/2023 RTL-E 8inch Head Unit Replacement

After a lot of trial and error and tons of reading on here I am finally happy with the end result of this swap. Other then some settings that I have not used since I got the truck and Lanewatch I did not lose anything I care about. I am adding this to help anyone else who may decide to try this since there is not an actual A connector from Metra that fits. Here is the back of the OEM notated for what I used. The notations correlate to the wiring matrix I am adding here as well.

According to Metra my Ridgeline uses a 70-1729 harness like the 5 inch unit uses. This is incorrect. This is my A connector:

and this is the 1729:

Thankfully with the help of @CentexG2 wiring schematics and @bhom920 for finding the correct harness to hack apart (Axxess AX-DSP-HON2) I was able to finally build a working harness. Also had to buy a Metra 70-1730 harness for the 8 pin connector to use for the factory sub wires.

I was also able to get all of the steering wheel controls working after contacting Axxess we figured out that my unit does not use both wires on the A connector. To get the HFL buttons working I had to tap in to the E harness Pin 12 (Tan)
I added pins to the C harness for the multiple camera views and also for the Reverse trigger and VSS.
Oddly I was not able to get the factory FM antenna working. I used the correct 40HD12 adapter and fed it power from the Kenwood but could not get any signal at all. The connector diagram just shows Traffic and Shield? No FM signal. I ended up just using one from Amazon that fits on the back of the mirror. I ran the cable in the headliner along with the Kenwood mic. I was able to splice the factory Shark Fin SiriusXM antenna to the SiriusXM SXV300 Adapter and that is working well.
I put the amp under the factory head unit location just like everyone else and it works great there. I may try to tinker with Lanewatch in the future. Pretty sure I can get the button the stalk to turn it on but not so sure about it turning itself on when I put on the right blinker. There are 2 pins on the diagram that concern me since they seem like they are used for communication to the camera.

I started this with a DMX1037S 10 inch screen but damn it was huge, bright, and a massive theft target so I downsized to the DMX957XR
Here is the before:

And the after with the DMX1037S:

and finally the end result with the DMX957XR:

Here is my parts list minus the mistakes I made along the way:
1-Kenwood DMX957XR Head Unit
1-Kenwood KAC-M3001 Mono Amp
1-Crutchfield AMP Wiring Kit
1-Axxess AALC Remote RCA Level Controller
2-Monoprice 1.5ft Premium 2 RCA Plug/2 RCA Plug M/M 22AWG Cable
1-Axxess AX-DSP-HON2 For main A Connector
1-Metra 70-1730 Wire Harness Amplified Version for HONDA 2008 and Up (Black) for 8 PIN Subwoofer Connection
2 -PAC USB-TY1 USB Adapters
1 -40HD12 Antenna adapter (Didn’t Work) used GF-LINK New Am Fm Hidden Windshield Antenna Car Radio Truck instead
1-Axxess ASWC-1
1-SPDT Automotive Round Rocker Switch Center Off
1-SiriusXM SXV300AZV1 Sirius Adapter-had to splice shark fin antenna
1-Axxess AX-HON24RVC-6V Backup Camera Harness
1-Metra 95-7811HG Dash Kit Gloss Black
Overall I am really happy with the swap. The Kenwood is amazing and just the Wireless CarPlay alone was worth the hassle. Everything was done in a way that I can just plug the old unit back in and remove 2 positaps and be back to factory. Once again thanks to everyone here for all of the information and help! This was fun and aggravating but in the end at least I never have to use that factory junker again.

RTL-T/2023 RTL-E 8inch Head Unit Replacement

VyPR

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