May be best to hold off on CRC now that there is a recall. If you have CRCed your connector you are fine, just leave it pugged in for life. The connector seal can swell over time (makes seal tighter) but if unplugged down the road, it may make reconnecting difficult.

 

Apple. Know the guys well.

Have you checked your vin to see if it is recalled? If it is then 6-56 is obviously doing something. I don't understand why they wouldn't want to cover up or grease a connector that is dry unless they know for sure that the harnesses in question are defective.

 

Is the front parking sensor/rain false alarm part of this TSB?

 

Finally got the AWD problem code this week

Here's the trouble codes that I got. I will be taking mine in on Saturday to have the dealer inspect my hardness.

 

The big question is what has changed since the harness date of 8/9/16. I have viewed some late vins and C601 has not changed.

The repair path for BOTH old and new harness dates direct you to inspect C601. I wouldn't say anything has changed per say.

I have disconnected every single connector in sight in the rear of the truck, and treated them all with CRC 6-56.

Saw a G2 in the dealer shop, and said "let me guess AWD codes". They said yes. I told them check C601. Supposedly it was full of water. Truck had 2500 miles.

I recommend everyone treat all connectors they can find with 6-56. Including the 8-pin on the dif. Im going to trace the harnesses to the hidden ends and see what I find.

9k miles and my truck has been perfect. I am confident the 6-56 is responsible.

Maybe the hardness is "revised" after numerous reports ??...unless we can inspect in person 2 different dates side by side ( same part number )...they might have just made the new harnesses less prone to moisture contamination ? :wink: ..maybe after they saw repeating reports...ended up treated the materials before assembled to be more moisture proof ? ) :nerd: ... could also be mainly supplier issues.

~~~~~
speaking of VIN... I've posted this once before but never seen a theory...it's supposed to be 6 digits... but all members refers to only as last 4 digits ( now up to 5 digits...etc. > )

A Canadian Black Edition that I took delivery beginning of Aug/2016 .... Which was unheard of. :|:surprise:
Just curious ... because mine start with a 5 :grin::grin:>

 

don't buy any of the first 10k units.

I would definitely buy one of the first 50 ( maybe 100 ) vehicles...:|:|

As they are important 1st batch and ALL eyes are on them and have to be verified and forms check confirmations & to guide the workers to familiarized with their work process...more chance of things done correctly. :| :nerd:

As it gets built more & more... That's when the "slacking" happens ! :bart::homer::jon::kyle::lisa::maggie::schroeder: :act064:
:marge::shaggy::stan::velma: :act064:

 

I read it opposite of you. If the harness date is before, not after August 9 and c601 is dry, then you're directed to procedure A which doesn't exist yet.

If harness date is after August 9 you're directed to procedure C and, if c601 is dry, you're directed to step 2 which is to check out a bunch of other connectors (why wouldn't these connectors be checked out on pre August 9 trucks?). Then, looking at steps 3 and 4, post August 9 trucks still HAVE TO HAVE THE REAR SUBFRAME HARNESS REPLACED (again, why would pre August 9 trucks with dry c601 connector not get this harness replaced?).

I'm in that BEFORE group and Procedure A...

Maybe non-existence IS a good thing !! >:grin:

I'm thinking supplier(s) parts manufactured AFTER the date that were produced "lack" in quality ?

5,000 Km mark and going strong ( I also took preventive with CRC 6-56 ) >

 

Maybe the hardness is "revised" after numerous reports ??...unless we can inspect in person 2 different dates side by side ( same part number )...they might have just made the new harnesses less prone to moisture contamination ? :wink: ..maybe after they saw repeating reports...ended up treated the materials before assembled to be more moisture proof ? ) :nerd: ... could also be mainly supplier issues.

~~~~~
speaking of VIN... I've posted this once before but never seen a theory...it's supposed to be 6 digits... but all members refers to only as last 4 digits ( now up to 5 digits...etc. > )

A Canadian Black Edition that I took delivery beginning of Aug/2016 .... Which was unheard of. :|:surprise:
Just curious ... because mine start with a 5 :grin::grin:>

The "5" indicates it is a Canadian vehicle.

 

Been working with Honda on this one.

They had a C601 full of water in a truck I mentioned the other day, and the connector was full of green corrosion. They CRCed the connector, and most of the codes went away but one remained so they changed the harnesses.

Here's the kicker...they went to review the corroded connector of the removed harness the next day. The connector appeared brand new, all of the corrosion had disappeared overnight.

 

Anyone have a picture of the location of the C601? Are guys that have treated the connection spraying the actual pins in the connector? Thanks

 

I would definitely buy one of the first 50 ( maybe 100 ) vehicles...:|:|

As they are important 1st batch and ALL eyes are on them and have to be verified and forms check confirmations & to guide the workers to familiarized with their work process...more chance of things done correctly. :| :nerd:

As it gets built more & more... That's when the "slacking" happens ! :

Not me. I made that mistake, once. 2008 Honda CBR1000RR. Got one of the first ones, first one at my dealership and it's a volume shop. That model turned out to be an oil burner. Unheard of, for a Honda Motorcycle Engine, to burn oil. They are considered the NASA of sportbike/racing world. Luckily I sold it before it made the news on the forums, m/c magazines and what not. Literally the week I sold it, Honda announced that they found a ship's worth of 1000RR's that they thought they lost and discounted the model $3k. The story was some missing containers all of a sudden found in a warehouse in California. Total BS story, they discounted them all because the engine was a flawed design. They were trying to catch up in HP wars, that they had been losing for many years in the literbike market. They made mistakes and it cost them, dearly. One more week and I would have been completely burned on resale. Mine was broken in the correctly and the best way to break in a bike engine so it didn't burn nearly as much as other people. Some were losing a quart per 1k miles. And on a bike the clutch sits in the same oil the motor does, total wet clutch, and burning that much is dangerous and could cost you a motor if not paying attention. Taught me to keep a keen eye on them, and never, ever, buy a first year model of anything from them again. I've owned 13 Hondas between cars, truck, and motorcycles, and 2 pieces of lawn equipment, so in total, 15 of their engines. That's over a 20 year span. Different company today. 20 years ago, either cars or bikes, were damn near bulletproof. I beat on some of their bikes at the track like an imprisoned father who beat his stepchild. Ape raping of some of those bikes, wouldn't burn a drop of oil. Way different company today, way. Some think Joe on here is full of it, he ain't. Bean counters have been running the company for a while. Acura has been flopping for years, and my local Honda bike dealer says their bikes don't move and haven't for years. They acquired a Yamaha dealership to stay afloat, Yamahas move. In the bike world, Yamaha, and I still can't believe it, has taken over as the premier sportbike mfr. They have trick new engines (crossplane cranks), and a solid lineup. I still have a Honda motorcycle in the garage but I moved to Yamaha for bikes and Subarus for cars. Subaru makes a truck off this new Viziv7 and I'm gone for good.

 

Anyone have a picture of the location of the C601? Are guys that have treated the connection spraying the actual pins in the connector? Thanks

Search is your friend

 

Those of you that need to get this done (maybe including me) and don't have a BE or an E, and you always wanted to get the optional rear bumper backup sensors, this could be the perfect time to swing a deal with your dealer as it literally has everything taken apart to install that kit.

Just a thought, but I may have them do it if possible.

 

I don't have the errors yet but I was under the truck last night for a look. These connectors really look poorly done given the fact that they have no real mechanical protection from the rain splashed up from the tires. I have the CRC on order (Monday) and will follow Bills directions. Truck has not got 300 miles yet. It also surprised me that there is no real protection on the back side of the connectors with the internal wire strands in the loom all exiting the loom and entering the connector with no protection. (they do have their individual jackets but no outer shielding). I'm an engineer in the semi conductor capital equipment business and all our equipment ends up in clean rooms (Intel, Samsung) and we would not get away with cabling like this. When I think of the environment under a truck in Oregon....ugggh.

Question for people. Is open connections like this common under a truck? Had an old taco before and that was my only Truck. It did not have any real wiring back there bar the lights...so hard to compare. But is this kind of wiring standard practice on an "electronic AWD" type system like most SUV nowadays?

Really looks suspect...but again, I don't have much experience of other like vehicles. Can anyone confirm?

 

Been working with Honda on this one, they had two brand new RLs in the shop, tearing down for new harnesses.

They had a C601 full of water in a truck I mentioned the other day, and the connector was full of green corrosion. They CRCed the connector as I told them to, and most of the codes went away but one remained so they changed the harnesses.

Here's the kicker...they went to review the corroded connector of the removed harness the next day. The connector appeared brand new, all of the corrosion had disappeared overnight. No more green, nothing but gleaming shiny pins. On this connector, the orange sealing GASKET was a mess. Part of it was pinched under the gray inner part of the connector, and the corners of the gasket had gaps. Inspecting your orange sealing gasket inside C601 may be the permanent fix here. IN ADDITION, the black part of the opposite connector that sits against this orange gasket must be smooth and free from forming imperfections. This connector had a few bumps, which will allow water entry.

Just more insurance that CRC 6-56 is the answer here. IF YOU HAVE NOT TREATED YOUR C601 with CRC 6-56, doing so now will save your truck from teardown. As an added note, I have about 30 years experience with this product and it's use.

I also got some printouts of the entire layout of both harnesses.

Stay tuned for side by side comparison of the pre and post date harnesses. Perhaps it may be as simple as getting the gasket right.

IF you would post some pics or video of a how-to I would try applying CRC6-56 on my truck!!!

 

It may be best to leave things alone now that this is a recall. If you have CRCed the connector you'll be fine, just do not re-open the connector periodically. Over time, the crc could swell the seal. This wont hurt, but it may make seating the seal difficult In the future. So If you've done it, plug it back in and let it be for life.

 

Been working with Honda on this one, they had two brand new RLs in the shop, tearing down for new harnesses.

They had a C601 full of water in a truck I mentioned the other day, and the connector was full of green corrosion. They CRCed the connector as I told them to, and most of the codes went away but one remained so they changed the harnesses.

Here's the kicker...they went to review the corroded connector of the removed harness the next day. The connector appeared brand new, all of the corrosion had disappeared overnight. No more green, nothing but gleaming shiny pins. On this connector, the orange sealing GASKET was a mess. Part of it was pinched under the gray inner part of the connector, and the corners of the gasket had gaps. Inspecting your orange sealing gasket inside C601 may be the permanent fix here. IN ADDITION, the black part of the opposite connector that sits against this orange gasket must be smooth and free from forming imperfections. This connector had a few bumps, which will allow water entry.

Just more insurance that CRC 6-56 is the answer here. IF YOU HAVE NOT TREATED YOUR C601 with CRC 6-56, doing so now will save your truck from teardown. As an added note, I have about 30 years experience with this product and it's use.

I also got some printouts of the entire layout of both harnesses.

Stay tuned for side by side comparison of the pre and post date harnesses. Perhaps it may be as simple as getting the gasket right.

Question Bill, as I highly value your expertise and experience. (I'm on S2ki btw, former AP2 owner).
The gasket issues you mention, assembly issue or part supplier issue? Has to be one or the other methinks. If the connector is made correctly (part), and mated correctly (both sides in assembly) then water and crap couldn't get in the thing. What do you think?

 

Going to retract my statement about the connector gasket, it could have been from disassembly and various inspections. As of now gasket positioning has been good.

I think it's best to leave the connector alone at this point now that this is a recall. If you have CRDed yours, it will be fine. But now that trucks are being recalled it may be best to hold off.

 

I don't have the errors yet but I was under the truck last night for a look. These connectors really look poorly done given the fact that they have no real mechanical protection from the rain splashed up from the tires....

Thought I read on here that the issue was from water from the front of the bed, from the drain holes...

 

Bill, you are a cornucopia of knowledge (I mean that in the best way possible). Thanks for your help and insight on this subject.

 

I am hoping to do a GoPro of C601 while driving in the rain, to prove if water entry into C601 is the initial underlying cause of the problem. It will also show the point of entry, whether it is being splashed or bed drainage is responsible.

The connector appears to be cheap to me. Not the typical Honda connectors I have seen all my life. If I find water hitting this connector directly, I will likely eliminate it (cut out the connector and solder, shrink wrap each wire). This will be a lifetime permanent solution. A connector mid-harness is used only for assembly, and to shrink the size of overall layout.

I will never be bringing the truck in for any warranty work, So I would not advise this at home. I plan to keep the truck for a long time.

For others, a simple water shield may be the solution.

VIN 21XXX connector is unchanged.

Again, if you have CRDed the connector, leave it be. Do not open it again.

 

A connector mid-harness is used only for assembly, and to shrink the size of overall layout.

and likely in case they ever have to remove the gearbox.

I will likely eliminate it (cut out the connector and solder, shrink wrap each wire).

One has to wonder why, faced with a 15 hour warranty repair, Honda didn't choose this fix.

Again, if you have CRDed the connector, leave it be. Do not open it again.

Good Advice

 

I am hoping to do a GoPro of C601 while driving in the rain, to prove if water entry into C601 is the initial underlying cause of the problem. It will also show the point of entry, whether it is being splashed or bed drainage is responsible.

You could always go out on a sunny day, put several 5-gallon buckets of water in the bed, take a fast corner to tip the buckets over, then drive various speeds as the water drains from the bed. That will tell you if any water is coming from the bed.

The connector appears to be cheap to me. Not the typical Honda connectors I have seen all my life. If I find water hitting this connector directly, I will likely eliminate it (cut out the connector and solder, shrink wrap each wire). This will be a lifetime permanent solution. A connector mid-harness is used only for assembly, and to shrink the size of overall layout.
...

This was the recommended fix for the '84-'87 GoldWings that had issues with the stator getting fried. Culprit was corrosion in the connector.

 

One other thought: if the problem is indeed water from the bed drain holes, I wonder if you couldn't build a gutter system under the drain holes to channel the water away from the centerline of the vehicle? Would not want it right in front of the tires, but maybe there is a sweet spot, or it could be routed behind the tires/iVTM4 unit?

 

If I look at the splash marks under the car, the connector area definitely gets splashed on. A few weeks back I took an old Honda lawnmower oil plastic bottle slit it long ways, cut out the bottom and drilled a weep hole in the bottom side and zip tied it over the connector bracket. It's more of a splash shield but moisture could get in there. It's easily removable and I'll leave it there for now until this recall plays out for scenario A which does not have a fix yet. I could also have used the self seal fusion tape but I'm worried about accidentally cutting the connector wires when cutting the tape but IMO that is a waterproof solution.

IMO I think it's a bad batch of harnesses as the Pilots and MDX's have the same looking connector mounted in the same spot. I don't hear anything much about the Pilot having an issue and they have been out for some time now.

The connectors on the diff are wide open as well and they must get submerged and splashed on easily so if the connector is manufactured correctly there shouldn't be an issue.