[ryanpizzo]

I am planning to run a full JL stereo system in my 2020 RTL.

I would like to keep factory steering controls, factory phone speaker audio, factory backup camera and be able to access factory maintenance settings.

Am I able to do this by installing a higher end Alpine unit or should I keep the stock unit in and add a JL Audio FiX-86 to be able to add external amplifiers?

System will consist of the following:

JL Audio HD 900/5 Amplifier
JL Audio C5-650 Front Components
JL Audio C5-650cw in each R door
JL Audio 10W7-D4 Subwoofer
All JL wiring including full speaker wire

I am just stuck on what to install into the dash to run it all.
I would like to upgrade to an Alpine unit but am unsure of once I install whether I can retain most/all of the stock capabilities and features.

Thanks in advance!

-Ryan

 

[SpunSquirrel]

I've been out of the audio game for a while, but DANG! A W7?? You're going to have some serious sound on your hands... and you're going to make everything rattle, so I hope you have stock in Dynamat! Lol [emoji38]
But this looks like a neat audio setup. I'm interested in how you do the install and I wish you luck.

-ooh, almost forgot.
Running all that extra power, how do you think the alternator is going to fair? Any thoughts or options for a higher output unit?

 

[TommyDeVito]

2020 has ADAS. I’m not sure who you can put in aftermarket deck in that And bypass the nannies.

 

[longboat]

^^ this ^^

AFAIK, nobody has yet replaced the 8" head unit. It would be a huge task and you'll probably lose a lot of functionality in the truck. It will definitely reduce resale value.

It it worth it to gain some better functionality? If all you are after is better sound, the downstream components should do it for you. That HU will be a nightmare.

 

[Klh]

I recommend reading this thread to answer your question as YMMV.

Good luck!

 

[ryanpizzo]

I've been out of the audio game for a while, but DANG! A W7?? You're going to have some serious sound on your hands... and you're going to make everything rattle, so I hope you have stock in Dynamat! Lol [emoji38]
But this looks like a neat audio setup. I'm interested in how you do the install and I wish you luck.

-ooh, almost forgot.
Running all that extra power, how do you think the alternator is going to fair? Any thoughts or options for a higher output unit?
[/QUOTE

sorry I meant a W6... I ran a similar setup in two 98 Acura integras with stock (and old) alternators and they were just fine so I’m sure a brand new Ridgeline alternator should do okay.

 

[ryanpizzo]

^^ this ^^

AFAIK, nobody has yet replaced the 8" head unit. It would be a huge task and you'll probably lose a lot of functionality in the truck. It will definitely reduce resale value.

It it worth it to gain some better functionality? If all you are after is better sound, the downstream components should do it for you. That HU will be a nightmare.

So you think I am better off running stock headunit and using OEM integration module such as the JL FiX-86 which hooks to stock wiring and uses speaker wire input for power

 

[longboat]

So you think I am better off running stock headunit and using OEM integration module such as the JL FiX-86 which hooks to stock wiring and uses speaker wire input for power

I think so. I've been out of the aftermarket game for quite a while myself, but I understand that the issue with the stock HU isn't so much the sound output (which should be fixable with a downstream DSP and appropriate amps), but rather the clunky interface.

There are many vehicle settings that are accessed only through the stock head unit. You will lose access to those settings. Also, as mentioned above, some of the safety sensing suite may also be integrated into the factory HU.

If it were me, I'd limit the mods to downstream of the 8" HU. I recall someone mentioning that a programmable DSP might be the best bang for the buck, then probably amps, and then speakers. YMMV

I actually have a 2019 RTL with the 5" HU, so I will be able to upgrade the HU if and when I feel it is necessary.

 

[ryanpizzo]

Yeah my goal is just to upgrade the stereo without losing access to mainly the back up camera, CarPlay, voice activation & steering wheel controls. Supposedly this JL FiX-86 unit integrates.

I just want to be able to add external an external amplifier and then upgrade all of the door speakers and add a subwoofer.

The amplifier I chose is all in one and drives all door speakers, tweeters and subwoofer. I just need to be able to run three sets of RCA cables to the amplifier along with the remote signal turn on wire. Then obviously grounding the amplifier to the car and supplying it with power from the vehicle battery.

It really should be straight forward aside from the headunit issue.

I don’t mind keeping the stock unit to be able to retain all stock features but I want to have my sound system nicer and more powerful.

 

[Itz chucklez]

@ryanpizzo i might be the person to guide you on this since I have a similar set up.
I may want to recommend the vxi amp 1000/5 For the ability to fine tune the system and I currently have the fix 82 with the volume/bass know in factory location on my rtl-t .
I could be absolutely wrong but that w7 may not fit under the rear seat. I have an image dynamics idq 10 that sounds awesome with hybrid audio components up front And that’s it. the vxi and fix are under passenger seat. Both fit nicely.
I also still have functionality of all factory sounds with the fix. And I connected it via optical cables. No rca
I suggest u leave the factory stereo in place. Distortion on that radio begins around volume 25 with all sound settings set at zero. I keep my volume set at 23. And adjust with the knob or vice versa. I think you’ll love your set up. I would ditch the rear speakers and I promise you won’t miss them

 

[Itz chucklez]

Also save yourself the money on jl audio wiring anything from stinger or knuconceptz will do just fine. Unlesss of course your extremely picky have the flow and just want it that way lol . Very important aspect I forgot to mention. Dynamat or equivalent is a MUST or u might as well get cheap pioneers for the doors and u won’t know the difference . The installation is The most important aspect of your system. Properly installed equipment will make even off brand speakers sound amazing. Don’t skimp on the sound deadning and sealing those doors properly

 

[Itz chucklez]

Here’s some photos of install. I initially started with the alpine type x amp and mosconi 4-6 dsp

 

[ryanpizzo]

@ryanpizzo i might be the person to guide you on this since I have a similar set up.
I may want to recommend the vxi amp 1000/5 For the ability to fine tune the system and I currently have the fix 82 with the volume/bass know in factory location on my rtl-t .
I could be absolutely wrong but that w7 may not fit under the rear seat. I have an image dynamics idq 10 that sounds awesome with hybrid audio components up front And that’s it. the vxi and fix are under passenger seat. Both fit nicely.
I also still have functionality of all factory sounds with the fix. And I connected it via optical cables. No rca
I suggest u leave the factory stereo in place. Distortion on that radio begins around volume 25 with all sound settings set at zero. I keep my volume set at 23. And adjust with the knob or vice versa. I think you’ll love your set up. I would ditch the rear speakers and I promise you won’t miss them

This is exactly what I needed to read.
I have done a similar install in the past in my older cars and totally agree with dynamat. I am going to start by doing the doors and go from there with that.

The subwoofer of choice is actually a 10W6-D4 and I measured for it under my seat already. It fits (including the box I am building [sealed .60 cu ft]).

I already bought the HD 900/5 and the rear speakers. I only bought C5-650cw for each rear door and not the component set just to run low/mids as fill. Again I agree with not normally needing rear speakers (I ran JL CSi-653 3-ways in my integra with no rears powered by an original 300/4 slash amp along with a 12W6 powered by an original 500/1 slash amp).

The FiX-82 will allow for full factory features along with a good amount of tuning for the aftermarket sound? No need for the FiX-86?

Optical cable(s) instead of RCA? Could you steer me in the direction of what I would need for my HD 900/5 install in those regards?

I wanted and planned to keep the factory radio I just didn’t know what would be easier to install along with maintaining factory functionality while giving myself the most opportunity to adjust sound settings on the HD 900/5 to get the most out of the system.

I really appreciate your help and your input & advice and look forward to hearing your response.

I am also very sure your system sounds absolutely awesome! ID is high quality and I am going to look into that VXi amp anyway for shits and giggles even though I already have my amplifier.

I will be installing my sub facing up under the passenger side rear seat, and then either the amplifier next to it with the FiX of choice somewhere in the dash or amplifier and FiX under the passenger seat (which I like the thought of even better).

THANKS AGAIN!!!!

 

[Itz chucklez]

I don’t think the fix will give you enough options to tune your system. Since your adding rear fill I would keep the fix 86 You should add the twk to fine tune the system. Unfortunately your amp does not have the option for toslink (optical) so your stuck going the traditional way with rca cables.
there’s also a site called zenclosures. They make sub boxes for cars that fit like a glove. They also make one for the ridgeline for $90 might be worth it. (I bought several boxes from them) They build to whatever spec you need.
Let me know how else I can help!

 

[Itz chucklez]

Remember the fix is made to do exactly what the name says to “fix” the signal from factory radio.
I suggest getting the volume knob for it (if u get the twk) this way u can select your presets adjust the bass and overall volume.

 

[ryanpizzo]

What is a “TWK”? And what is the volume knob for? The FiX?

I have JL Audio Blu RCAs already that id have a hard time returning anyway so that’s no big deal.

I also have the HD-RLC knob for the amplifier as well.

I will definitely look into the enclosure since I feel like it would cost me close to that to build it myself out of 3/4” MDF anyway.

I love your install though and wish I could hear it! Where are you from?

 

[Itz chucklez]

I’m in the Miami area.
here’s the info on the twk the volumeknob is the upgrade from the one you have. It goes on the twk

JL Audio TwK System-tuning DSP | Car Audio | Garmin

TwK® System-tuning digital signal processor (DSP) has analog or digital inputs and outputs that brings out the best in your vehicle’s sound system.

www.jlaudio.com

 

[ryanpizzo]

I’m in the Miami area.
here’s the info on the twk the volumeknob is the upgrade from the one you have. It goes on the twk

JL Audio TwK System-tuning DSP | Car Audio | Garmin

TwK® System-tuning digital signal processor (DSP) has analog or digital inputs and outputs that brings out the best in your vehicle’s sound system.

www.jlaudio.com

Okay thanks... so return the HD-RLC and purchase a TWK and upgraded volume knob?

 

[Itz chucklez]

That’s what I would do! OR return the amp and get a vxi and u won’t need a twk and you’ll be able to go optical for super clean sound! Just do your math and see what works for you. Hope I was able to guide you better!
scenario 1: fix - twk-Hd amp- rca connections = more wiring - more equipment
Scenario 2: fix - vxi - optical connections = less wiring less equipment

 

[ryanpizzo]

That’s what I would do! OR return the amp and get a vxi and u won’t need a twk and you’ll be able to go optical for super clean sound! Just do your math and see what works for you. Hope I was able to guide you better!
scenario 1: fix - twk-Hd amp- rca connections = more wiring - more equipment
Scenario 2: fix - vxi - optical connections = less wiring less equipment

Do I NEED a TWK or is that just going to allow for a lot more system tuning?