I just had all new disc brakes put on my 2006 Ridgeline.......now it sticks in park? Do I need to adjust the the brake? How?
Also, triangle warning and ABS warning come on?
Also, triangle warning and ABS warning come on?
ejarmbrister
Maybe the brake guy adjusted the rear brakes to tight. And when you put your foot on the brake pedal to release the transmission lock it won't activate it. Can you get it out of Park with the Emergency release pressed?
Is the Parking brake on?
Is the Parking brake on?
If your brake pedal moves and the lever won't disengage, my guess is that something in the transmission release system became disconnected from the brakes. I don't know if it's just an electronic sensor or if it's mechanical, but to me that's what it sounds like if your brakes were replaced.
I'll betcha OurFarm will know for sure..
I'll betcha OurFarm will know for sure..
Ourfarm would be me....
There are a few things that could be causing this and most have already been mentioned by oldnorske. Now it is puzzling that the ABS light and triangle is on. But that shouldn't cause the shift lever to stick in park.
There are a few things that could be causing this and most have already been mentioned by oldnorske. Now it is puzzling that the ABS light and triangle is on. But that shouldn't cause the shift lever to stick in park.
If it's the position sensor, it can be easily replaced. Here's a write-up on the process on a Honda Pilot. I think it would be very similar on the RL:
http://www.piloteers.org/forums/337935-post13.html
![Image]()
![Image]()
http://www.piloteers.org/forums/337935-post13.html
Somehow, I don't think that's the problem.
I can leave my PB engaged and still shift into gear.
I can leave my PB engaged and still shift into gear.
Here is something interesting and well timed.
We were having lunch at a local eatery and the manager told me she has a truck just like mine. She proceeded to tell me about a problem with hers.
Her check engine and VTM 4 lights came on a couple weeks ago. It was intermittent and she had no problem getting it started or anything else. She took it to the Honda Service Center (her husband works for Honda). They discovered a cracked block!
I'm not saying this is what is wrong with the OP's truck, but I think he needs to have a reliable service tech delve into this further (check compression, etc.).
We were having lunch at a local eatery and the manager told me she has a truck just like mine. She proceeded to tell me about a problem with hers.
Her check engine and VTM 4 lights came on a couple weeks ago. It was intermittent and she had no problem getting it started or anything else. She took it to the Honda Service Center (her husband works for Honda). They discovered a cracked block!
I'm not saying this is what is wrong with the OP's truck, but I think he needs to have a reliable service tech delve into this further (check compression, etc.).
I had a trailer wiring module connected to my driver side tail light that fried, blew the fuse and as a result I was also stuck in park. I didn't have a turn/stop fuse (8). Turns out the horn/turn fuse (13) was blown. Would've never figured it out if it wasn't for this post and ejarmbrister mentioning the horn fuse. -thanks.
This is what I was refering to in my last post..... http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42200&page=9
After dealing with the a week of single digit temps in Colorado and not driving my Ridgeline, she decided to give me the ABS, VSA, and /!\ malfunction lights while driving to the store a couple miles away. Hoping it'd reset when I got back out, I started it (no malfunction lights), then pressed the break to shift into Drive, and the lights came back on, no budging of the shifter, and no brake lights. Popped the manual shift lock release and got her home, and sure enough, the brake fuse (#13 fuse under the hood) was blown. replaced the fuse, and all the issues went away. what did we do before google??
Have you identified what the fuze is for? Sounds to me like you have a short to power and one circuit is receiving voltage from another circuit and blowing that fuse. This is caused sometimes from after market equipment not installed correctly or factory wires that have rubbed on the chassey or something sharp and become exposed causing two different circuits to join.
Run a multimeter across both connectors in the fuze housing and find out how many volts are passing through it. If it's well over the rated amount then you know you have a problem and you also know at least one of the circuits involved and where to look for the short.
One of the circuits involved could be something you don't use very often and that could be why it doesn't happen that often, or there could just be some lose wires swinging around in a door panel or something to that effect.
Do your brake lights come on when you push on the brake?
Good Luck
Run a multimeter across both connectors in the fuze housing and find out how many volts are passing through it. If it's well over the rated amount then you know you have a problem and you also know at least one of the circuits involved and where to look for the short.
One of the circuits involved could be something you don't use very often and that could be why it doesn't happen that often, or there could just be some lose wires swinging around in a door panel or something to that effect.
Do your brake lights come on when you push on the brake?
Good Luck
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