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Pairofkings

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2020 RTL-E
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Hello I just sold my 2007 RTL and got a 2020 RTL-E. I've installed a Scan Gauge II and noticed the battery voltage will change from 12 volts to 13.8 -14.0 volts, then drop back to 12 volts and back up to 13.8-14.0 volts. This happens with the engine running, ECON is turned off. The Scan Gauge is plugged in to the OBD2 port and is tight, the Scan Gauge display does not turn off unless the Auto stop function activates or the engine is shut down. Checked both battery terminals, they are clean and tight. I've only got about 160 miles on it and have not had any issues. Don't know if this much voltage change is normal for this vehicle or if it is an indication of a pending problem. No issues with starting, the lights are all bright, no warning lights on.
Anyone else notice this on their vehicles?
Thanks in advance for the replies.
 
Did you have the Scanguage on the GenI? I doubt you did because you would have noticed the same behavior. On the GenI it will switch between 12.8(ish) and 14(ish) volts depending on the current load requirements. This is a fuel saving feature. I'm sure the GenII has as similar feature and that is what you are observing.
 
Voltage floats up/down on every vehicle I’ve had the ScanGauge plugged in to......since 2005. Perfectly normal.
 
Hello I just sold my 2007 RTL and got a 2020 RTL-E. I've installed a Scan Gauge II and noticed the battery voltage will change from 12 volts to 13.8 -14.0 volts, then drop back to 12 volts and back up to 13.8-14.0 volts. This happens with the engine running, ECON is turned off. The Scan Gauge is plugged in to the OBD2 port and is tight, the Scan Gauge display does not turn off unless the Auto stop function activates or the engine is shut down. Checked both battery terminals, they are clean and tight. I've only got about 160 miles on it and have not had any issues. Don't know if this much voltage change is normal for this vehicle or if it is an indication of a pending problem. No issues with starting, the lights are all bright, no warning lights on.
Anyone else notice this on their vehicles?
Thanks in advance for the replies.
The 2006-2014 Ridgeline had a dual mode charging system. The alternator could operate in one of two modes - "low" that output about 12.5 volts and "high" that output at least 13.5 volts.

The 2017-current Ridgeline has a more advanced charging system with an output that varies between 12.5 and 15.8 volts in 0.1-volt increments depending the battery's state of charge, temperature, load, and other factors.
 
I don't know how many generations of ScanGuages there are but I do know that there are a number of members here who are getting transmission fluid temps readouts on their GenII Ridgelines using a ScanGauge.
 
I see the same fluctuations, using gen1 scan-gauge on a 2019 BE. Anyone using gen2 gauge, do you get trans temp?
Yes, I'm running a ScanGauge II and get TFT on my G2 RL per the attached X-Gauge programming. Note the required minimum firmware version number, Linear Logic can update your Scangauge II firmware for a nominal fee (BTDT myself), see the Scangauge website for more info.

The instructions for your SG (available for download on the website) tell you how to find your firmware version via the SG menu if you need that guidance.
 

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Yes, I'm running a ScanGauge II and get TFT on my G2 RL per the attached X-Gauge programming. Note the required minimum firmware version number, Linear Logic can update your Scangauge II firmware for a nominal fee (BTDT myself), see the Scangauge website for more info.

The instructions for your SG (available for download on the website) tell you how to find your firmware version via the SG menu if you need that guidance.
Perfect, thank you. I just ordered the Firmware upgrade from their website. I'm currently on V4.05.
 
Hello I just sold my 2007 RTL and got a 2020 RTL-E. I've installed a Scan Gauge II and noticed the battery voltage will change from 12 volts to 13.8 -14.0 volts, then drop back to 12 volts and back up to 13.8-14.0 volts. This happens with the engine running, ECON is turned off. The Scan Gauge is plugged in to the OBD2 port and is tight, the Scan Gauge display does not turn off unless the Auto stop function activates or the engine is shut down. Checked both battery terminals, they are clean and tight. I've only got about 160 miles on it and have not had any issues. Don't know if this much voltage change is normal for this vehicle or if it is an indication of a pending problem. No issues with starting, the lights are all bright, no warning lights on.
Anyone else notice this on their vehicles?
Thanks in advance for the replies.
I have a Scan Guage II that has been programmed by the factory to provide both battery voltage and charging amps. This was done since I am on my 3rd battery with less than 10,000 miles. Readings when driving would fluctuate from anywhere from -20+ amps to 30+ amps no matter what was running. When I would shift to neutral, it would normalize. It would do this when stopped or when moving. I took a video of the readout to the dealer but they insisted nothing was wrong. when leaving the dealer, it appeared to be OK; said they didn't find anything but charged me $100. for the analysis.
Many months went by and I recently let it idle for about 10 minutes and the same fluctuating readings started again. Took a long (30 mile) drive and it has gone back to normal charge rates.
Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem?
 
I have a Scan Guage II that has been programmed by the factory to provide both battery voltage and charging amps. This was done since I am on my 3rd battery with less than 10,000 miles. Readings when driving would fluctuate from anywhere from -20+ amps to 30+ amps no matter what was running. When I would shift to neutral, it would normalize. It would do this when stopped or when moving. I took a video of the readout to the dealer but they insisted nothing was wrong. when leaving the dealer, it appeared to be OK; said they didn't find anything but charged me $100. for the analysis.
Many months went by and I recently let it idle for about 10 minutes and the same fluctuating readings started again. Took a long (30 mile) drive and it has gone back to normal charge rates.
Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem?
If you think this is a "problem", you probably shouldn't monitor the charging current for your cell phone or laptop. :)
 
The 2006-2014 Ridgeline had a dual mode charging system. The alternator could operate in one of two modes - "low" that output about 12.5 volts and "high" that output at least 13.5 volts.

The 2017-current Ridgeline has a more advanced charging system with an output that varies between 12.5 and 15.8 volts in 0.1-volt increments depending the battery's state of charge, temperature, load, and other factors.
This is probably why so many batteries fail during warranty. It is too complicated and the battery probably gives up trying to work. (for Sheldon Cooper - this is humor).
 
Going from -25 amps to +30 amps in a split second isn't a problem?
Ever heard of AC (Alternating Current) or PWM (Pulse Width Modulation)? :)

Also, it would be helpful to know what that parameter is actually indicating. A digitized value of an analog input from the current sensor on the battery? The amount of charging current commanded by the PCM? The actual charging current produced by the alternator? A calculated value of charging current based on programmed models?

Wildly varying numbers could be due to differences in the carrier frequency of the current and the sampling rate of the current sensor.
 
I have a 2019 Ridgeline and noticed that my voltage fluctuates from 12.2V - 14.1~14.2V . When I am coasting down a hill the voltage will be between 13.3~13.8 depending on the grade. When i am completely stopped or have the truck in park or neutral the voltage will usually stay between 14.1~14.2.
I brought the truck into Honda here in Hawaii to have the charging system tested and they confirmed that everything was fine and that the voltage drop is normal for the Ridgeline which i find odd, because since buying the truck new in January 2019 I have gone through 3 new replacement batteries from this same Honda service center.
 
Didn't Honda make a change to the charging system during the G1 production years? I seem to recall something about that, but no details.
 
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I bought one of those volt meters for the cigarette lighter from Amazon, not sure how accurate it is, but after I did the “Big 3” upgrade for my sounds system, it usually shows 14.3 volts... until the bass hits hard! Lol! It’ll quickly drop to like 13.8, and then right back up to 14.3. But I do notice when I’m not even pounding my sounds or my bass knob is turned down, the meter will show as low as 12.8. Weird. I did upgrade to the Northstar AGM battery.
 
.... But I do notice when I’m not even pounding my sounds or my bass knob is turned down, the meter will show as low as 12.8. Weird.
Nothing "weird" about it. Installation of the 'big 3' does not alter the charging system output algorithm described in previous posts, you're well within the expected range; ampacity of the cables isn't a limiting factor in that regard.

IMO it's debatable whether your cable and battery 'upgrades' actually meaningfully upgraded anything at all other than the vendor's wallet.
 
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