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2022 RT-L pulling a horse trailer

9.5K views 35 replies 20 participants last post by  Apex  
#1 ·
Pulled my daughter's horse, which, with the trailer, came to around 4300 lbs. Was able to get 17 MPG and had no trouble. Installed a trailer brake controller that worked great.
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#5 ·
Highly recommend the Tekonsha 90195 P3 Electronic Brake Control. Very simple plug-and-play installation. You have to reach WAAAAAY underneath the dash near the parking brake and left kick plate to find the loose pin connector that couples to the controller. You then use two supplied zip screws for the bracket and you are golden. This is the second Tekonsha I have owned and a very nice upgrade from the P2 that I previously owned. It is also recommended to upgrade the fuse in the RL fuse box that comes with the new trucks and the wiring piece that is not necessary to use.
 
#17 ·
Meanwhile the F-Series in the back is like, what did I do to deserve this insult...
 
#12 ·
Just by eye, I would guess too much tongue weight. Did you check it? Even if so I have have found the irs in the back of the Ridgeline very stable even if overloaded.
Good looking ride, love the color!
Not an issue with the tandem wheel trailers. No squat when horse finally got on.

Pulled my daughter's horse, which, with the trailer, came to around 4300 lbs. Was able to get 17 MPG and had no trouble. Installed a trailer brake controller that worked great. View attachment 428433
Thanks for the comments... BTW, I got 17 MPG towing this trailer (horse weighed about 1100 lbs.)
 
#19 ·
OK, so I’ve never really known exactly what 1 horsepower really is, so like an idiot, I went to the internet…
According to internet publishers of such content.

1 horse power is the ability to lift 33,000 pounds, 1 foot in 1 minute or 550 pounds, 1 foot in 1 second.
But those numbers can change based on implementation. At this point I realized I was in for trouble.

Now the best part of this is, that when we are talking about cars and horsepower we are talking speed, not the ability to lift weights. So you have to apply physics, oh the joy.
Power = Force * Velocity.
And evidently Speed = Power/Force.
And without knowing very much about such things, its clear weight will come into this, so horsepower, when applied to a vehicle is a very lose number for sure, unless everything weighs the same – and we know that’s not a thing.
We will have to figure out the Mass, because weight although a factor, needs to be Mass, by the way, I’m already lost, so if you’re following along, you’re doing better than I am.

You, know, let’s forget all that crap, and throw the engine on a dynamometer and get the RPMs and multiply that by the Torque and divide by 5.252 because, you know physics.
The Torque, of course, is Force * Distance … and we are back to Mass multiplied by the acceleration due to Gravity, 32 feet per second squared, for those wondering.
Did I mention Force = Mass * Acceleration – physics again.

Yea, anyway, I’m giving up at this point, I’m guessing the engineers at Honda have a computer program that figures all this out for them, either that or someone has a kick-ass slideruler.

Nice horse, what’s his name?
 
#35 ·
OK, so I’ve never really known exactly what 1 horsepower really is, so like an idiot, I went to the internet…
According to internet publishers of such content.

1 horse power is the ability to lift 33,000 pounds, 1 foot in 1 minute or 550 pounds, 1 foot in 1 second.
But those numbers can change based on implementation. At this point I realized I was in for trouble.

Now the best part of this is, that when we are talking about cars and horsepower we are talking speed, not the ability to lift weights. So you have to apply physics, oh the joy.
Power = Force * Velocity.
And evidently Speed = Power/Force.
And without knowing very much about such things, its clear weight will come into this, so horsepower, when applied to a vehicle is a very lose number for sure, unless everything weighs the same – and we know that’s not a thing.
We will have to figure out the Mass, because weight although a factor, needs to be Mass, by the way, I’m already lost, so if you’re following along, you’re doing better than I am.

You, know, let’s forget all that crap, and throw the engine on a dynamometer and get the RPMs and multiply that by the Torque and divide by 5.252 because, you know physics.
The Torque, of course, is Force * Distance … and we are back to Mass multiplied by the acceleration due to Gravity, 32 feet per second squared, for those wondering.
Did I mention Force = Mass * Acceleration – physics again.

Yea, anyway, I’m giving up at this point, I’m guessing the engineers at Honda have a computer program that figures all this out for them, either that or someone has a kick-ass slideruler.

Nice horse, what’s his name?
Shay, a quarter horse. He was trained in Western and English, and much to my disappointment, my daughter went with full English.
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#33 · (Edited)
Let me offer an alternative proportional brake controller. The Tekonsha Prodigy P3 allows for presets of up to 3 different towing configurations and is easily adjustable on the fly. It too is simply plug and play with my 2022 RTL. As someone mentioned, you have to go way up underneath the dash and find the unused connector and plug this one in and use two screws to place it on the dash. I placed mine over on the far left and it does not interfere with ingress/egress from the truck. The beauty of this particular controller is that when you are pulling an empty trailer, you do not need all of the braking assistance. Or alternatively, if you are hauling different weight trailers with your RTL, the P3 allows you to have 3 separate programs for the different configurations which saves a lot of experimentation and hassle to have the proper proportional breaking we are looking for. Below the P3 is my 400 "horse" power race car that weighs not much more than a horse at 1625 pounds.
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#34 ·
Well since we are talking about controllers, if you want a top notch controller with a very clean install then here is a great controller.

 
#36 ·
I have had my P2 for years with no issues. Used it in three different trucks. I used different profiles, but always just come back to the base setting. I am sure the P3 works awsome, but I will give a nod to the simplicity of the P2. For me its been predictable, and I know what to expect. When it dies, maybe I'll try a newer model.

Mine is mounted exactly like the previous pic with the P2. I usually like to keep it on the right hand side for quick action. I have towed all sorts, but usually its cars for track days. My G1 pulled a 4800lb car and trailer to many tracks. I am currently looking at a 3500lb car with 1100lb trailer. So we will see how the G2 does!