[frank3246]

Sure, I'd love to try your version out!

It's been helpful for me to discuss ideas on here, I think I may try to edit/combine some of the features from both concepts so far.

Great! How can I send you the STL files? I don't see a way to do that here; the "Conversations" upload allows few file types to be uploaded.

 

[BeshmoHandes]

Great! How can I send you the STL files? I don't see a way to do that here; the "Conversations" upload allows few file types to be uploaded.

You should have an email from me - let me know if it didn't make it through.

 

[frank3246]

You should have an email from me - let me know if it didn't make it through.

Got it, files sent.

 

[dHP]

I settled on creating two versions of the cubby tray/drawer, both are flush with the dash (except for the pull).
The first is just a tray with no dividers as coolbob requested, the second has the coin tray as Jalexandermsgt requested (it also has a compartment beside it).

Models have been posted on Printables for downloading and printing at Honda Ridgeline Cubby Tray Drawer by Frank M | Download free STL model | Printables.com

Printed this out last night, fits great! Thanks for designing it.

 

[frank3246]

Printed this out last night, fits great! Thanks for designing it.

You're welcome! What model year is your RL? I'm wondering if all G2 RLs have the same cubby size, 2017-2024. It fits 2020 for sure.

I added a third version with a slightly larger compartment (front right). If you put the RL key fob in it like I do (in a secured garage), the tray wouldn't close unless the key was leaning forward. The new tray has no such restriction.

 

[dHP]

You're welcome! What model year is your RL? I'm wondering if all G2 RLs have the same cubby size, 2017-2024. It fits 2020 for sure.

I added a third version with a slightly larger compartment (front right). If you put the RL key fob in it like I do (in a secured garage), the tray wouldn't close unless the key was leaning forward. The new tray has no such restriction.

Also a 2020 RTL-E

 

[Nervey]

The tray without coin dividers looks great for Pen(s), and I haven't tried, but if it fits the 3"x3" post-it pad, then that is perfect for notes since the center console sliding tray doesn't hold those well.

 

[frank3246]

The tray without coin dividers looks great for Pen(s), and I haven't tried, but if it fits the 3"x3" post-it pad, then that is perfect for notes since the center console sliding tray doesn't hold those well.

Hmm... Thanks for the idea! I removed the coin slot, lowered the divider wall, and there is now just enough room for a up to 3/4" thick post-it pad if laid on top of the pens. I saved this version to Printables as well.

 

[BeshmoHandes]

Someone should make an aftermarket solenoid setup that sits over top and is wired to a switch under the hood. Flip the switch and a solenoid activates it. Simple lol easy and the american way! (lazy) lol

Interesting idea - I wonder if you could just tap into the existing Park Lock Actuator solenoid? I don't know how it works (if needs power to lock or to unlock).

 

[BeshmoHandes]

Any suggestions? I can PM you the files if you want them.

View attachment 458233

I printed @frank3246 's file and tried it out.

These parts printed perfectly on my Prusa MK4. I printed them just as is, and the Lisle tool fit very nicely - I didn't have to tweak any sizes.

I ran into two unforeseen complications:

1. The wings weren't quite big enough to get comfortable leverage to turn the tool against the spring tension. I added a little more handle on the sprocket to get more leverage, which worked a treat for being able to turn it by hand. I didn't remove the wing on the other side, but it probably could be trimmed off for clearance against the hose you can see in the first picture.

2. However, once the sprocket was turned, the friction against the lisle tool hexagonal face was so much that I could not push the sprocket down into place onto the base. This was a surprise for me, but it made sense once I thought about it.

I'll have to think about this some more - it seems like there should be a way to get the sprocket to move downwards once the park pawl is released.

The only other note I have is that it is a bit fiddly to match up the three pieces while reaching down into the engine bay - I'll see if I can think of a way to make a single part that is an assembly of moving bodies. Like if the sprocket part was captivated into the base.

 

[frank3246]

I printed @frank3246 's file and tried it out.

These parts printed perfectly on my Prusa MK4. I printed them just as is, and the Lisle tool fit very nicely - I didn't have to tweak any sizes.

I ran into two unforeseen complications:


1. The wings weren't quite big enough to get comfortable leverage to turn the tool against the spring tension. I added a little more handle on the sprocket to get more leverage, which worked a treat for being able to turn it by hand. I didn't remove the wing on the other side, but it probably could be trimmed off for clearance against the hose you can see in the first picture.


2. However, once the sprocket was turned, the friction against the lisle tool hexagonal face was so much that I could not push the sprocket down into place onto the base. This was a surprise for me, but it made sense once I thought about it.

I'll have to think about this some more - it seems like there should be a way to get the sprocket to move downwards once the park pawl is released.

The only other note I have is that it is a bit fiddly to match up the three pieces while reaching down into the engine bay - I'll see if I can think of a way to make a single part that is an assembly of moving bodies. Like if the sprocket part was captivated into the base.

Thanks for testing this out! I didn't anticipate the force against the teeth during operation, as you discovered. If you use pliers or a wrench to turn the Lisle socket, would that relieve the pressure so the teeth readily engage/disengage? But that's two additional tools you'd then need to make it all work, and all in that little space. The pin interface needs to be metal, for safety and practicality, so no apparent way around needing that Lisle socket.

I'll bet it is fiddly, trying to assemble three pieces in that space. You're right, the two parts need to be one assembly. I'll have the Lisle tool tomorrow and will test some ideas, like extending the sprocket to allow the lower section to rotate, with a retainer ring at the bottom to captivate the sprocket and base.

Instead of teeth, how about introducing a metal pin to hold the sprocket in position, via a hole through both the handle and the base? As I look again, that may have been the idea behind your original design...

 

[BeshmoHandes]

Also, wanted to add - after measuring - there's about 20 degrees of rotation for the release from P to N. It doesn't quite have to go all the way, but close. Now that we know that, it may be easier to set an alignment with a pin instead of teeth.

 

[frank3246]

Whole new direction here, requires pushing a pin in place with one hand while turning (up to the rotational stop) and holding the handle in place with the other. Not sure there's enough meat in the handle part to hold the pin; when pushed in, the pin stops when it reaches the Lisle socket. Alternatively, you could push the pin through a hole in the top of the handle into a hole in the base?

The ring is glued to the handle shaft (which rotates), and keeps everything together/aligned. Super glue gel is like welding with PLA/PETG materials, very strong.

 

[frank3246]

Or this...

 

[BeshmoHandes]

I really like this direction. It seems like the bottom ring could be incorporated as a print-in-place to captivate the handle to the base.

It also seems like having the horizontal pin would be more likely to hold vs a vertical pin, since there would be less torque along the long axis of the pin.

The pin could be as simple as a small bolt.

A slot could be added to the base to hold a nut inside a sleeve that would captivate the pin.

This might be getting too complex, but I like the ideas that are getting generated from this discussion!

 

[BeshmoHandes]

Not sure if I'm making sense, but here's a concept of a captivated handle (cut-away view for clarity):

 

[gti16vman]

Just wanted to drop in and say impressive work here by you two. I have no need for this tool yet, but I very well might in the future if/when I upgrade my RL.

Prusa MK4

Also that I am jealous. I really considered a MK3 when I first bought one, but I was worried I might not use it enough and I didn't want to pay an additional few hundred dollars to get it pre-assembled rather than spend the 8-9 hours to build it. It does look like a sweet machine and I bet the MK4 is that much better. Maybe someday I will splurge and get a new one.

 

[BeshmoHandes]

Just wanted to drop in and say impressive work here by you two. I have no need for this tool yet, but I very well might in the future if/when I upgrade my RL.

Thanks for the encouragement!

I didn't want to pay an additional few hundred dollars to get it pre-assembled rather than spend the 8-9 hours to build it

Yep, same. I just built it about two months ago, upgraded from a Creality Ender 3. The build process is no joke, it probably took me 10 hours total over the course of two weeks, working here and there in the evenings or weekends. I'm glad to have had the experience, but I'm not sure I'd do it again. 😅

The ease of use and print quality is orders of magnitude better than the Ender 3.

You can find used ones in good shape for a decent price on eBay - if I was to get another, that's probably what I'd do.

 

[gti16vman]

Creality Ender 3

I might have to keep an eye out for a deal as the Ender 3 is what I have today. Have had it for about 2 years now and really like it, but I have always had my eye on a Prusa.

 

[frank3246]

Just wanted to drop in and say impressive work here by you two. I have no need for this tool yet, but I very well might in the future if/when I upgrade my RL.

Thanks! If you have any ideas on this design or other potential 3D-printed solutions, please share! The process of conceiving something, designing it and bringing it to life is very rewarding, at least for me.

I might have to keep an eye out for a deal as the Ender 3 is what I have today. Have had it for about 2 years now and really like it, but I have always had my eye on a Prusa.

An Ender 3 variant was my first printer as well, three years ago. Last year I bought and assembled a Prusa MK4 which is a great machine. It took maybe 16 hours over a couple of days to assemble (with enclosure); I must be slower than the average assembler! By assembling it yourself, you save $300, and naturally become more intimately familiar with 3D printer machinations.

That was followed by a Bambu X1C, then a Bambu A1 I got just a few days ago to replace the Ender 3. You didn't ask, but I recommend the Bambu A1 for the best value. On sale now for $299, you can't beat it for features and dependability.

Backstory on the Bambu A1: A couple of years ago after retiring from Honda in Marysville, OH, I was lucky enough to get a part-time job at a friend's business, who has a shop that produces current transformers and had a need for 3D-printed molds for pouring silicon, among other things. This was a unique opportunity to learn Fusion (the design software they use) while getting paid, and with only limited experience designing in Tinkercad. She already had several 3D printers when I arrived so I've gotten to use an Elegoo Max, Modix 60 (with a 24"x24" build plate!), Prusa MK4, Ender 3 Max, and a couple of others. They added a Bambu A1 last week, and after just a couple of days using it, they are leaning toward buying several to produce winding insulators out of TPU, a somewhat finicky, rubbery material that the A1 handles so well, and at a great price. Of course it also prints PLA and PETG (two popular and inexpensive materials) very well, so they can now get rid of all the other printers of similar size. Impressive!