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Battery specs

19K views 18 replies 8 participants last post by  FrayAdjacent  
#1 ·
I just had occasion to wonder about the battery in the 2019 Ridgeline. I could find nothing in the owner's manual. Honda Parts just has a part number but no specs. A third party listing shows a capacity of 70AH and cold cranking amps at 760.

How can the capacity be only 70AH?
 
#4 · (Edited)
First, note that the OE spec battery is an H6 "FLA" (Flooded Lead Acid, aka "wet cell") battery while that Duracell you link is an AGM. The values for that Duracell may not be the same as the OE battery at all (though likely in the general range).

For any given battery there's nothing inherently 'wonky' in an AH "capacity" rating that's a small fraction of its "CCA" rating. The two are measures of very different battery characteristics with different units of measure. Though CCA generally increases with AH capacity there's certainly no fixed or consistent ratio between the two raw number values among different batteries.

Google will lead you to technical articles about the differences between the two measures.
 
#5 ·
My concern isn't that the capacity is so different from the cold cranking power, it's that the capacity is so low. I had a plan to use an inverter on the Ridgeline to get me over periodic power outages in the house. But I worry that 70 AH is a pretty slim margin for an inverter to draw from. But, I suppose a FLA battery has much greater capacity?

I wish Honda gave me any specs at all on the battery, but I can't find any. Why is there no spec in the Owner's Handbook?
 
#7 ·
I wish to run a refrigerator periodically when Edison turns off the power. They have a surge, but running wattage is around 200. A 1500 watt inverter can handle that. If I can start the truck and run the fridge at intervals, it will preserve the food for a day. I don't need to run the house, just the fridge, and periodically, over 6-12 hours.

It was my understanding that a capacity of 500-600 AH was not uncommon for car batteries. Maybe I misremember.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Well, IMO the cyclic starting surge of the reefer will be a big hit on the RL system even when engine running. Most backup schemes using battery>inverter are based on deep-cycle batteries, different from car-starting batteries in their design behavior characteristics.

Personally, if I lived in a place where Edison was pulling this sort of stunt on a more-or-less ongoing basis I'd be shopping for a compact portable 1-2KW gasoline inverter / generator. They can be had for not terribly much more than a quality 1500W bare battery-based inverter, are actually designed for that sort of duty, can serve more capably and economically than running your RL, serve other useful benefit beyond just the reefer, etc, etc.

The Honda EU2000 is the top-of-the-line most expensive option of that sort but there are now several much less expensive and reasonably reliable alternatives on the market, google is your friend.

It was my understanding that a capacity of 500-600 AH was not uncommon for car batteries. Maybe I misremember.
That's big numbers for Amp Hour 'capacity' ratings, more like Cold Cranking Amp numbers (there's a world of difference between Amp Hours and CC Amp ratings). Remember that most car battery specs for 'reserve capacity' are an expression of "minutes" at a standardized load condition, not Amp Hours. Methinks you're mis-remembering values and/or confounding different battery spec measurements / units.
 
#9 ·
Were it not for the surge when a refrigerator starts up, your RTL-E would run a 25 cu/ft refrigerator/freezer:

"For example, in the case of a 25 cubic-foot fridge, you might see it vary between 115-130 Watts (or over 200 Watts if the refrigerator warmed up due to a power outage)."

A 1500 watt full sine wave inverter is $250. And, it has "soft start" to ramp up the voltage for surge currents. But, 1500 watts is enough for the surge anyway, and it only lasts a second. We have 760 cold cranking amps available. How much does the starter draw? A small Honda generator is $1100. An in-house off brand is half that. And then you have the maintenance and reliability of a small gas engine to worry about. An inverter has no moving parts and needs no gas can.

If I only had hamburger and frozen peas it would be a lot cheaper to just replace them. But, I grow Olallieberries in the summer and freeze them for winter pies. You can't buy frozen Olallieberries, so a thaw is painful. And experience has shown me that 6 hours without power is enough for the berries to start thawing.
 
#10 ·
"Normal cranking loads can require 125 to 200 amps or more from the battery depending on engine displacement, compression and temperature. At 0 degrees F, that number can increase 200 to 250 percent depending on the viscosity of the oil in the crankcase."

That's 2,000 Watts.
 
#13 ·
When I see the 70Ah in the battery specs, I am wondering if that is for the 3 hours max of using the tail gate speakers and inverter use.
I have only seen Ah rated in deep cycle or deep cycle/starter batteries.
 
#14 ·
Since I can buy a 100AH deep cycle battery (which I can trickle charge with my solar panels) for less than $200, I have come to the conclusion that there’s no reason to involve my Ridgeline in this project.

Could I charge an external battery with the (running) truck by clipping it on to the truck’s battery?
 
#16 ·