Sounds high. Brakes should have been about 400 max. I have no feel for the front wheel bearing. Labor sounds about right, he is really maxing out on parts I think.

 

Not sure about cost of work on Ridgeline will look into things in the mourning. I had prices from my Acura Dealership for my 00 3.2TL for rear brake pads & rotor resurface I think it was $450. Also needs wheel bearing in front prices are around same for stuff like this sometime higher or lower for Honda or Acura Dealership.
Now just checked the last time I had brake rear pads replaced on Ridgeline.
It did not need rotor resurface at that time they charged $169.95 but other work was being done at time including brake fluid flush.

 

I haven't had to replace a rotor yet, but I typically buy the OEM pads for around $50 a pair (front or rear). They come with shims and grease and are pretty simple to replace.

 

IF you pulled all OEM equivalent parts from tirerack.com and had a recommended installer do the work, installing 4 new rotors and pads at all 4 wheels would run about $900.

OR do it yourself for $650. (assuming you really needed rotors, of course.) So 2 wheels you could do for about half that, $325 So actually he was good on parts, I don't know about the bearing. I went to RockAuto and every wheel bearing listed for a Ridgeline is under a $100. Majestic Honda has the OEM front wheel bearing for $128.

 

My two cents: If you have the time and even basic mechanical skills, you can change pads in about 15 mins per wheel. OEM Honda ceramic pads (made by Akebono) are approximately $55-60 set for rears and $75-80 set for fronts. Rotors can be had for $55-$100 depending on whether OEM or not (I like Centric Premiums which are only $43 ea rear and $56 ea front - I have had good luck with Centric even on 'premium' rides like my former 2008 Infiniti G35xS).

The RL is super easy to do brakes on and if you have the skills and time (maybe 2 hours and 3-4 beers if you take your time), you could do ALL the pads and rotors for about $340 (this using OEM pads and the Centric rotors mentioned above) About $500 if you have to have OEM rotors. The rotors will USUALLY be good for the FIRST replacement set of pads. I got to both my fronts and rears with about 3 mm of pad left and the rotors were fine. Below 3mm they'll probably start to get scored - especially the fronts... Next time, I will replace the rotors as well...

 

I was using the same numbers off tirerack to get to those estimates. It really does boil down to a DIY job.
But as far as using a shop I think he got a deal on the high side, especially when for paying for the mechanic's trip to Outer Mongolia to find a $300 bearing.

 

Rear Pads
43022TK4A00 $69.72
Labor:

Rear Pads
B 0.0 1.0 unit of labor.

Wheel Bearing

Front Suspension


3 - Front Wheel Bearing
44300SJCA01 $123.08

Wheel Bearing

Replace

Front Suspension

One Side
Does Not Include: Wheel Alignment.
Skill level: B 1.0 2.1 labor units (aka 2 hrs)

 

Your mechanic charged you dealership/Alldata cost for bearing
and drilled you on rear brakes, but I am not sure what exactly was done, as there are specific surcharges for additional items.
Data I provided for you are from my Alldata account. Honda dealer supposed to use same guideline.

 

so he decided to change the pads along with it since they are cheap.

Nothing was cheap where you went.

 

They were cheap for the mechanic.

 

This mechanic is known to be the best independent Honda mechanic in Eastern Mass, but I've had 2 bad experiences so far (out of the 4 times I've taken my car there). I guess I'm just a little disappointed.

ukrkoz: Was the 1 hour labor for both pads and rotors or just the pads? I had both of them replaced. $330 was parts cost for both of the rear rotors and pads. BTW, don't I know u from another forum?

 

The mystery to me is still the price of the wheel bearing. The markup on that one part is through the roof.

Everything else seems pretty normal as charges go. Does not mean they are 'great' but I don't think it is highway robbery either.
Does not mean he is not a good mechanic either. Stretching the definition of integrity though.

 

Had a wheel bearing replaced in my Pilot at a Midas for $220. Been fine since.
Did all four rotors and pads on Ridge. Rotors were bout $70 each and the ceramic pads were $38 a pair. Took 1 hour and 15 minutes to do. Bought a shotgun with the money I saved. And, I picked it up in the RL! Life can be such fun if u want it to be. :act035:

 

My bad.. I just saw the break down for the wheel bearing again. The labor seems high but $123 for the bearing is right on!
I guess it comes down to doing your brakes yourself for the best savings.

 

I wouldn't mind learning how to replace the brakes myself, but I don't know anyone who can teach me. All my friends think I'm a car genius because I can change my own headlights and wiper blades :act024:

 

Watch this video and you'll see that's it's not difficult at all.

http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=be3_1309039213&comments=1

 

A mechanic may dad used to go to when I was kid had only one arm (following the Korean war) but he was an ace on anything with 4 wheels.

That's a great clip, a big incentive for those who think they can't do anything without help. Count your blessings if you got all your limbs.

 

The rear brakes have been problematic for me. My brake guy has had to pull the calipers off the back twice and the front once to free them up. One of the rear pads came apart a year ago so I replaced the rear pads then at 40K miles. There's 52K miles now and the rear rotors are starting to rust badly causing the pads to sound like they are hanging up.

Getting the calipers off is only a few minute job once the tire is pulled. He pulled all four and lubed them up in 40 minutes ($40). When I get new rear rotors in the fall, he tells me a good rotor will run $60-$70. He says he can do both sides in 30-40 minutes total time on the lift....meaning less than 1 hour for labor.

My front rotors and pads are still in good shape.

I've also had some issues with the alloy rims leaking some due to corrosion as well as the TPMS sensors leaking a tad at the valve end on several occasions over the years.