I had the Xpel kit applied immediately after my purchase in July. I had the entire kit as you described minus the top of the windshield installed. It is completely invisible except for the edge of the bikini cut on the hood. The only reason I see it is because I know it's there and you have to look at the proper angle to see it. My only recommendation is to select a good installer since I watched the complete install and there are quite a few quirky pieces that curve on the RL.

 

Does anyone know how the installers cut the film when trimming around openings? I just wonder if they use a blad against the paint anywhere? I've noticed that when dealers install pinstripes on cars, they often cut the ends with a blade which leaves a very minor but visible "scratch" in the paint. I guess I should watch some YouTube videos of installation. If I get a new RL, I'm definitely considering PPF. As much as I drive on the highway, my Accord's front end is already a bit blasted after 3.5 years/58k miles.

 

From what I've read on this forum the film kits come pre-cut and the installer doesn't cut anything. I don't know first hand though.

 

I've had the 3m on my gen1 RL for 2 years now and I'm very pleased. Really helps with the stone chips and to get the bugs off.

 

Went to site listed in first post, i.e., Test Of Durability, and read quite a large number of posts, most by installers. It seems the recommendation is to replace the PPF every 5-7 years. I was considering doing the front, hood and roof of my RTL-E, but am having serious second thoughts. Rather than replacing the PPF every 5 years I guess I'd rather put my money toward a new paint job after 10 years.

 

I have Expel on both my RL and RDX. Had 3M pro on a '16 Toyota Tacoma and a '13 Avalon hybrid. The 3M pro went higher up the hood than the Expel. Pricing was basically the same. The installers told me they prefer to install the Expel; however, both work quite well. The installers also said that the standard 3M (as opposed to the Pro) was not worth the money you saved over the Pro.

Just traded in my wife's Avalon Hybrid for the RDX. Front end looked fantastic, because of the clear bra....only one slight divot due to a huge rock hit. The installers heated the area and smoothed it out after it happened and you could only see it if you knew it was there...

Will never get a vehicle again without installing the clear bra....

 

Planned to do hood and fenders kit today. xPel used to provide good instructions, none came with this kit, guess they are trying to force us to use the installers who have paid for training and a link on their website.

 

I looked at the kit pricing and by the time you get all the pieces it comes to about the same price or cheaper as having it installed professionally. At least this is what I am seeing in my neck of the woods.

Cost for the full hood fender and mirror kit plus the bumper kit is $1218 US or $1600 CDN if you prefer. I am getting the same thing installed for $1400 CDN or $1065 US.

Bottom line is there is a lot of markup on retail sales for their film.

 

Had mine done with the 3M Pro. The installer (who also does whole vehicle graphics and such) said that most are pre-cut kits but that they had the CNC cutting machines to cut their own if needed (probably because they need those for the graphics stuff. Mine was about $350 for the front of hood and mirrors.

 

Hiccups..dbl post

 

I have heard of all this stuff before, but never had a need for it down in Texas, by the time you add a set of winter wheels and tires, this film protection for road debis, etc., and just the higher cost to maintain a vehicle in the north, it looks to me like it becomes a very big expense, something we do see in the south.

trainman

 

Yeah...some of us love our toys & accessories !! :laugh::grin:>

Don't forget under carriage protections too !
I rather deal with the heat than the salts & winter here up north though...vehicles lasts longer.

 

Another place to put paint protection film is behind the front & rear door handles, to protect from fingernails.

 

I am looking into getting this done, just got a quote for 900 for the whole front end. But wouldn't it be the same price to just paint the hood and replace the mirrors (OEM come painted from the factory) every 5 years?

Speaking of which, anyone had luck with pearl touch up paint for tiny nicks on the hood?

 

PPF is elaborate to explain but I will try to condense it.

Background: I've been using PPF on my motorcycles and cars for 20 years. I've had about 5 cars done and 6-7 motorcycles. I'm also friends with the #1 shop that does PPF in my state. He regularly tests all films on the market for strength/protection/longevity, price, ease of install, looks, etc.

$900 is a good price for the front end of your truck providing it's good film and you trust the installer(s). It's a 50/50 thing. What brand of PPF is important but equally important is the folks who are going to put it on. Are they going to use a precut kit or are they going to hand install. Hand install is always better.

PPF has many advantages. One example, on my S2000, I got hit with sharp landscaping rocks from the bed of a contractor truck on a tollway. The rocks tore up my PPF on the front end of the car. I would have bet my house on paint damage. Upon inspection at the shop, no paint damage. Installer cut pieces out that were damaged then used a hand held torch to install patches of new film where it was damaged. Once it was completed it was almost as good as it was on the original PPF install. No PPF, I would have had to have the whole front end repainted but would have also needed a new hood.

On resale, original paint always fetches more $ on resale. Always. When you repaint, again it's always be the person doing it. When I need paint repairs I use the best paint/auto-body shop in my area. That shop does all the Ferrari, McLaren, Porsche, and Ferrari paint work here. The key to repainting a portion of the car/truck, is the blend. Not only do they have to repaint the areas damaged, it has to be blended into the factory paint. If done correctly, an inspection/inspector couldn't tell the difference between OEM paint and repaint. But that's the minority. Has to be a solid reputable shop in your area to do it right. Trick is to call, and do research. Find the shop that does all the high end and expensive automobiles. That'll be the shop to use.

Back to PPF. It's worth it if you are keeping the vehicle long term. I only buy vehicles I keep long term until they won't go anymore or cost too much to fix. (Like say it's got 200k miles or above on it). So for me PPF is worth it. My performance car in the garage cost me about $3500 to do. That's the highest quality ceramic tint all the way around, on the moonroof also, and clear film on the inside of the windshield to block UV's. Then Suntek PPF on the entire front end. Full hood, full front bumper, front fenders, rockers under the doors, mirrrors, hatch shelf, first 1/3rd of the roof, door cups, and behind all 4 wheels. Think of a condom. A lot of film. PPF was probably close to 3k, and all the tint another $500.

If you only plan on keeping the vehicle 5 years or less I wouldn't do it. And PPF, even well taken care of, is only going to last 7 years (depends on environment). But that is assuming a DD. If the PPF is coated or regularly waxed, and the vehicle is stored indoors when not driving, or a garage queen, you may squeeze more years out of it. And then the other side would be a DD, stored or parked outside, and either extreme weather say in AZ (the sun/heat) or up north where it's cold AF, lots of snow, etc.

If you want to protect your truck, and don't want to spend this kind of money I'd recommend ceramic coating. Do the whole truck. Will set you back around a grand. The coating is hard and will protect similarly to PPF just not as much. It's thick, and hard (that's what she said), and will generally do many of the things PPF will, just not as protective. And the DIY guy, can research this, watch youtube videos, and do a decent job themselves. But you have to strip the paint (Dawn liquid), clay bar, paint correct, then put the coating on, let it dry. It's a lengthy and time consuming process that I won't do. It's why any of this stuff costs real money, because it's laborious.

The ideal combo is to PPF on the front end, then apply ceramic coating over that film and the rest of the vehicle. Deep pockets, you PPF the entire vehicle (4-5k), then apply the coating over all that. So it's a slider, how much do you want to pay? How much coverage do you want? How long do you plan to keep the vehicle?

 

I also see the kit is about 400 bucks...https://www.xpel.com/paint-protecti...PEL-US--AND--Canada/Passenger-Cars--AND--Light-Trucks/2018/Honda/Ridgeline/None

Anyone try to do this yourself?

 

Not something I'd recommend someone do with no experience. I leave it to the pros.

I didn't do the hood and partial fenders on this truck just the driver and passenger door sills. But if you do a lot of highway miles it will help with the stone chips, but usually wont come into trade when buying a new vehicle.

 

I had the front of my new 2020 RL done with 3-M pro. The installer was a "3-M certified pro installer" which doesn't mean jack, but he and decent reviews. But he was a mobile install guy so I should have known better - "no fixed abode" means no place to go back to. He was nice enough, but right off he forgot the piece for one fender. Then he got nervous when I told him the job would be inspected under fluorescent lights! I paid him to make him go away because he did a crap job, with dust and dirt under the film. Yeah, there's a warranty, but it only covers the material, not against an inept installer! Now I'm either stuck with a substandard job and either I have to try removing this stuff myself or pay another installer dude and hope he doesn't damage the paint. I say PPF isn't worth it, just put on a good coat of wax, live with the rock chips, and save your $900+. You'll be happier in the end. I wish I'd never heard of PPF, what a nightmare!

 

^^^I hear you. I just went with PPF on the door sills, door edges and door handle cup. I installed the front air deflector which will protect the leading edge of the hood and reduce dings to the rest of it. I'll probably try a DIY ceramic wax on the remainder of the panels. Yes, there will be chips to the bumper and front fenders but I'll live with those. Bottom line for me is not knowing how long I'll keep the RL. I'd be interested in a hybrid version or electric alternative in the next 5 yrs or so.

 

I just got done removing the PPF I paid $900 to have installed, and I am happy I took it off before it cured anymore. It wasn't overly difficult to remove, I just took it real slow. Against my better judgment I used a heat gun which made it much easier. A steamer would have been better. The original paint looks far better without the film on it.

I think the hood deflector plus one the ceramic "waxes" is the way to go. I have the ceramic on my BMW and it's held up amazingly well and still looks good after 7 years. It won't stop rock chips, but I'll live with that after what happened with the film installation. I'm sure that paint film is a good product, but the result is totally dependent on the installer. So how lucky do you feel?