Did it at my shop on our old Pilot 165k miles. Parts yes $20, time: Waited 45 to get the parts delivered from local parts store.45 miles to loosen engine subframe to allow access to bolts remove and replace.
So tell them to put their estimate back to a realistic 1 hour max

 

Labor Information Skill Level Mfg. Warranty Standard

Stabilizer Bushing C 0.6 0.7

Replace

Front Suspension


One Side


Both Sides C 0.6 0.8

 

Basically, it's 0.8 Hr labor time according to Alldata for both bushings, and cost
51306SZAA02 $4.61 each.

Now stabilizer BAR replacement is 3.8 hrs, as you have to suspend engine and remove crossmember.

 

......

Now stabilizer BAR replacement is 3.8 hrs, as you have to suspend engine and remove crossmember.

That's what I was thinking when I read my abbreviated Service Manuel. - The Stabilizer Bar is not a "walk in the park".. Hanging the engine etc...

:act030:

 

Well, yeah, dahhh.. You jackstand the engine from oil pan and drop cross meber. Been done before.
I had pleasure of doing stabilizer bar bushings on son's Mazdaspeed, and it calls for same - suspend engine and such. Well, come to find, you can simply disconnect few hoses from cross member, and start undoing very LONG bolts holding it to subframe. At some point, with cross member still attached, but much lower, you can get sockets onto the bar bushings and take them out. They all have slots in them, so it's easy to slide off/onto the bar.
Problem was, I could not find the right bushings. So I simply cut sheet metal brackets and slid them over the old bushings, and put them back. When re-tightened with bolts, it made bushings smaller and noise was gone. Not to jinx.

 

.. You jackstand the engine from oil pan .....

....Really ??. Sorry Bud, but you'll never see me doing that........

to each his own I guess !

:act030:

 

Thanks for the input. I will let them know what you folks say and see where it goes from there. Will report back

 

I just got mine done and it was $210 parts labour and taxes (cdn).

 

Jack stand the subframe not the oil pan.
Always

 

Now you're cookin' w'fire !

:act051:

 

Are you sure the noise is the bushings on the bar and not bad joints on the links?

-W

 

That's easy to check. Drive over bumps. If you hear clunk every time truck drops down off the bump apex, it's almost guaranteed to be sway bar bushing.
Or engine mount, but...
Otherwise, you have to slide a very long pry bar from the top down and get it between sway bar and cross member. Gost to be from the top, as it is covered by cross member from the bottom. Then move the bar. If it moves - you have your answer.

 

Originally Posted by Rockwood View Post
Jack stand the subframe not the oil pan.
Always

You can't. Cross member must be dropped in order to get to bushings' bolts. To do that, engine must be somehow suspended, as it sits partially on cross member. One or 2 engine mounts. Hence, you either have to suspend the engine from the top and lift it up just enough to remove engine mount center bolt, or jack engine from the bottom, to prevent it from dropping down, whilst cross member is lowered.
Jacking subframe does nothing. Folks, once again, I do not remeber, how many times we had engines supported from the bottom up, with jackstand and large board, and right against the oil pan. Including American V6 engines. You do not need much upward effort, just enough to not let them drop down as you release cross member.
I spiketh from experiences and many.

 

The front end of my 2007 Ridgeline, just passed 70,000 miles, is starting to get a vibration when going over bumps. At first I thought sway bar bushing, but jacked the front end up last night and couldn't find anything loose. I shook everything and even banged around with a rubber mallet but don't feel anything shaking.

The symptom feels kind of like a loose front wheel bolt, over bumps I can feel some kind of vibration/shaking through the steering wheel. All wheel bolts are tight.

Anything else I can check before taking it to the dealer?

Oh, and I read that the washer reservoir could be loose. Mine was a little, I attached it with velcro as suggested here but still get the shaking over bumps.

 

The symptom feels kind of like a loose front wheel bolt, over bumps I can feel some kind of vibration/shaking through the steering wheel. All wheel bolts are tight.

Anything else I can check before taking it to the dealer?

Inspect the tie rods.

 

I had a rattling noise (and could feel through steering wheel) on my 06 for years. I just recently replaced the front sway bay end links and bushings and my problem was solved. It was almost certainly the bushings. You won't easily be able to recreate the sound with a mallet while the sway bar is under tension. I could only feel the looseness when I had removed the end links and taken all the tension off of the sway bar. I cold then feel the slop in the passenger side bushing.

BTW, to change the bushings you do not need to loosen the subframe etc. It is a tight space to work in but you can remove the bushing clamp and slip out the old ones and slip in the new. It is easier with the endlinks off an I would recomend replacing them as well as there are many reports of failures on this site. Be prepared to cut off the nuts on the endlinks as they tend to seize up.

 

wow... I was reading this and was laughing that people said to drop the subframe. It's like a 30 minute job to do the bushings. I had clunking in my front end. Bought sway bar bushings, took it in cause i realized it was under warranty. Gave them the bushings. They replaced struts and upper strut mounts cause they said it was those. Got it back, still clunked. Took it home and replaced bushings. NO MORE CLUNK!!

 

I too was scared by the comments that the cradle needs to be dropped to change the bushings. This is so far from the truth. Passenger side zero issues was about a 5 minute job. The driver side was a little longer only because you cant move the wrench as far. But I was able to get in there with a 1/2 inch drive ratchet with no issues what so ever. My end links were a pain in the a$$ due to corrosion of the inner holding hex. I had to cut all four ends of them off.
I used the Moog replacements for everything. The bushings no issues. The links are beefier and have grease zerks on both upper and lower mounting points. They also use a hex nut holding system vs the OEM inner hex. The only complaint is their choice in nuts. 18mm ?? Really? Oh well even with all the cutting the entire job was 1.5 hours start to finish but if I were doing only the bushings under 30 minutes.