There is a wire that is behind that panel, you have to drop it down to access it, its in a spare unused plug on the right side. U can self tap a ground in there as well and shove a cable out of the front for a clean look.Hope this helps

 

Does anyone have a picture/directions for this wiring method? It seems to be the cleanest.

 

Even tho that power source is protected by a fuse. Add an in-line between your camera and the source.

 

I just bought one, and was planning to use a Fuse Tap kit to install it (like the attached pic). My cam came with a 10 ft cord, and it was easy to tuck behind the headliner, a-pillar trim, under the glovebox, and between the center consoles. I thought it would be visible with the door open running next to the dash, but the weatherstrip has a space to tuck a wire under it. Only a little bit of wire showing where it plugs into the 12v port. I don't use the 12V outlet for anything else, so it doesn't bother me.

 

I wired the Aukey DRO2d dual camera setup.

Ran it down the A-Pillar (comes off with one bolt behind the airbag logo) and plugged it into the 12v on the center. Ran the rear underneath the sill as those came off with just clips. I plan to add a fuse for it. If you search I recall the research has been done already for which one.

 

Power Magic EZ powers your BlackVue from your vehicle’s OBD* (On-Board Diagnostic) port.

 

There are unused plugs up there for sure. Just get a multimeter to check whats hot and not.

 

I powered both my dashcam and rear-view cam using the wires above the sunglass holder / hondalink / overhead light fixture, like this here. This was in a Pilot but the 1G Ridgeline has the same wiring and the 2G may as well?

 

2019 RTL-E. I hardwired a dash cam that uses 2 power leads. One is ignition switch powered for use while driving. The other is constant powered so the dash cam monitors the vehicle 24/7 in sleep mode and starts recording when the unit’s G force sensor detects movement.
There are 2 open ports in the fuse block under the drivers side dash that work perfectly for this. Port #30 is only hot when the ignition switch is on. Port #42 is hot constantly. It’s a simple job to tuck the dash cam power lead in the headliner moulding then run down the A pillar (the cover removes with one screw). Pull back the weather stripping and your access is simple.

 

Great info, thanks.

 

This looks promising. Thank you for the photos.

 

I have a hardwire kit, and I want to use slot 42 since the manual says it is always hot, which I need for parking mode. Question is, what amp size fuse do I use? Will a 10 work? I know not to use a fuse with a higher amp rating, but Willa lower be okay?

 

I know not to use a fuse with a higher amp rating, but Willa lower be okay?

Lower is probably ok, but without knowing the specs of your camera how can we say for sure?

The info is usually printed on the hardware somewhere, but you should be able to look it up online or in the manual.

The pic of the rexing kit above shows 5V 2A output to the camera so a 5A fuse would be more than enough for that one. The input side of the kit is 12V though so the fuse could probably be even lower than 2A and it would still work.

12V * 2A = 24W of power input. 5V * 2A = 10W of power output. So the input side doesn't even actually need 2A. You'd have to know the conversion efficiency of the supply to know the exact number, but hopefully that will help you out.

 

10 should be fine. Your dash cam shouldn't even get close.

 

The Honda trim tends to be easy to tuck a hardwire kit into and keep it both neat and effective.

I have done this with my 2010 Insight and have started planning on my Ridgeline.

You might even be able to tap power off the towing system leads as there will be a 12 volt lead there. If you never need to run a brake controller this will work just fine and involve cutting no wiring.