This is a decision only you can make. Modern vehicles are pretty damn reliable and come with a warranty. You clearly want the Ridgeline.

 

Honda Lawn and snow removal, lot different than the auto/truck models. Honda's have always been reliable, at least the Civics 3 , Accords4 and Pilot and now 2022 RTL-E Ridgeline. Warranty usual 3yr, 36,0000, but I am sure the Finance guru at dealership would hook you up with extended warranty for a price. But, you know best what trips your trigger, so do what is best for you.

 

From what I've read here, they sound quite reliable. Look how many first gen trucks are on the forum and how the folks driving them love them.
Like stated earlier, modern vehicles are pretty solid. Where I am, you certainly can get extended coverage if you have concerns.
You want it. You know you want it....

 

I know the v6 has been around awhile now. When I haul stuff in the bed I love the idea of the dual action gate. Also, I might even get a cap for it.

Yes, I do want it. I’ve already driven a few and I love the ride. Throw a set of blizzaks or Xice winter tires on it and it’ll be damn near unstoppable going up or down my hill.

 

I can't say too much yet about my gen2. It's still a baby but so far it has been perfect. I will say after driving my gen 1 for 314,000 miles (before I wrecked it) it was the most perfect vehicle I have owned for my work. I drove 40-50 thousand miles every year, all year round, in MT, WA, OR and ID. I have been doing this same thing for the last 35 years. My Honda Ridgeline was hands down the very best for maintenance, snow and icy roads and hot summer trips. I saw 16 degree below zero to 122 F and my RTL never let me down.

 

When you were putting heavy miles on your Ridgeline, did you have Honda dealers doing your maintenance or did you have another preferred shop do that?

 

2017 bought new with Zero (0) problems to date. 40K miles. Exactly what I would expect from Honda.

 

You list three very different pickup trucks.

If you are concerned about Honda reliability, budget for a HondaCare plan. Don't buy it from your dealer--many don't even sell true HondaCare plans, they sell other warranties that are more profitable for them.

Get a quote from Hyannis or another online dealer--there are plenty of discussions here about it.

Do you do your own maintenance, or plan to use the dealer for that? Putting on that many miles annually will require multiple oil changes and other scheduled maintenance each year.

Edit: if you are really concerned about reliability, the Maverick is brand new. Personally, I would avoid the first model year or two of a new vehicle. Takes a while to get the bugs worked out of a new chassis. I'm not familiar enough with the Maverick's powertrain to know if it's new or one that Ford has been using for quite some time.

2021 Obsidian Blue RTL-E

 

Dealerships are important, especially if you are going to have your work done there. The distance you are away from them is a factor, but not the most important factor. What is better for your situation?
Like 911 said, I would avoid the Mav.

...the Maverick is brand new. Personally, I would avoid the first model year or two of a new vehicle.

The F150 is a great FULL size truck. If hauling, towing, or off roading is your thing; consider it. If you deck out a F150 XLT or higher trim level to match the RTL-E or BE you will be at least $10K more.
The Ridgeline is a great MID size truck. If comfort, dependability, gas mileage, and $10K or more savings is the top of your list - the RL is your truck.
Bottom line, there is no right or wrong. It is what is better for you. There is no way to tell the future. Make the best choice you can and be happy with it. Wish you the best.

 

I live an hour away from the Honda dealer as well and it hasn't bothered me. I actually asked a professional auto consultant about the extended warranties and he said "skip it, put the same money into your investment account in case you need it for repairs, you chose a Honda so you won't need warranty coverage".

 

I have owned RLs since 2005, minus a short stint between 2016-2017. I am on my third one now, and still love the truck. A friend who sells Toyotas for a living, having recently seen my 2022, is now looking to get rid of his Tundra to get a RL himself.

The VCM doesn't bother me at all. If I happen to notice it while on a long drive, I can just change the gas pedal pressure and turn it off again. In the city, I don't think it ever comes on.

You won't be disappointed. My Gen 1 got me thru three AK winters with Blizzaks. Great ride!

 

Many threads online about Honda VCM either state how it could cause issues down the road or how an old version of VCM caused many issues for past Honda vehicles. I can count on one hand the number of threads that have stated for a fact that VCM caused any kind of failure, and at the most, those failures tend to be the active engine mounts. If anything, the motor mounts need to be better or more reliably made.

VCM may contribute to oil blow by as well, and cause injector failure later. But again. The number of people who have experienced that is very small.

You’re honestly more at risk from water leaks, and not just from Honda, lol.

 

RL has been around for a while now. They should have the problems ironed out. VCM is no longer an issue in terms of destroying an engine. The VCM version with the court ruling is different than the version in the Ridgeline. Audi has shaken it's labels of sudden acceleration but Honda just can't shake VCM until they go EV. VCM might have characteristics that you can feel but in the RL its minimal. FWIW my Honda lawn mower is the worst one I've ever had. The axle binds up and you can't pull it backward without the wheels locking up Ha Ha.

Keep in mind though that around 100k miles, you will need timing belt, tensioner, water pump, spark plugs, possible valve adjustments. At a dealer this can get expensive. A member here had that done at a dealer for $2500 ish so if you go past 6 years at your rate of use that's $7500 whereas with a timing chained engine you'd be paying less. Probably just plugs and coolant. You could shop around for lower prices though. Also, the 9 speed fluid change at the dealer ranges from $300-$500 and could be a 60k interval. To get the level correct, it's not DIY.

 

Keep in mind though that around 100k miles, you will need timing belt, tensioner, water pump, spark plugs, possible valve adjustments. ...whereas with a timing chained engine you'd be paying less. Probably just plugs and coolant.

Timing chained engines don't have water pumps, drive belts, tensioners, or valves? Huh.

2021 Obsidian Blue RTL-E

 

It's a gamble on whether or not to opt for an extended HondaCare warranty. However, considering the cost of repairs these days, one claim after the factory warranty might probably pay for the cost of the warranty.

I got three quotes when I purchased my '21 RTL last May, and Sean at Hyannis Honda had the best price.

If you decide on one, definitely avoid the dealer and get a quote from Sean.

 

It's a gamble on whether or not to opt for an extended HondaCare warranty. However, considering the cost of repairs these days, one claim after the factory warranty might probably pay for the cost of the warranty.

I got three quotes when I purchased my '21 RTL last May, and Sean at Hyannis Honda had the best price.

If you decide on one, definitely avoid the dealer and get a quote from Sean.

Agreed. I typically don't get extended warranties or service plans, but the price online for Hondacare seems like a reasonable cost for insurance. The 8 year Hondacare on my 2018 Accord already has its first claim past the factory warranty for the gas door actuator. The warranty is keeping me from buying another new car, so its actually saving me money. I will likely buy Hondacare on my Ridgeline when I take delivery in 2 weeks. All car forums are a great marketing tools for extended warranties.

 

If reliability is your top concern then you'd probably be better off buying a lightly used Tundra that came from a good model year and was well taken care of. If you just want reassurances, then just ask two or three compliant fans and you'll get all the reassurance you could ask for.

 

Since you are already "super concerned about reliability" IMO I would purchase something else. You would be better served to purchase a vehicle that you were not "super concerned about reliability."

 

I myself considered the maverick but I was out after I discovered the bed was 54 inches long. I regularly pick up loads of gravel and stone during the summer with a bucket that is about 63" wide and you would be spilling it over the tailgate with a bed that short. The Ridgeline bed is 64" long so if you do anything like that its worth considering. The F150 reg cab bed is 78" long which is a big plus.

The Honda 3.5 and the Ford 3.3 are both good engines. The duratec 33 is direct and port fuel injection if carbon buildup concerns you. The Honda is direct only. Then as mentioned you have a timing chain on the Ford vs belt on the Ridgeline. Getting technical the Honda is single overhead cam vs dual overhead on the Ford. The fuel mileage is pretty much the same between the two. Curb weight on the F150 is 4275 lbs and 4450 for the Ridgeline. Power steering on both trucks is electric assist. (No more fluid).

Ford did have some issues in the past with their 4x4 systems related to the wheel hub. The IWE (integrated wheel end) system was prone to vacuum issues but for the 2021 year they switched to an electronic integrated wheel end that is supposed to be an improvement. I haven't heard of any issues with that system but it's still new.

If you step up to the super cab F150 you can option it with the 302a package which gets you to a similar feature set as you get with the Ridgeline. (Heated seats, remote start, lane keep / collision mitigation, etc.) The Ridgeline will inevitably ride better. The F150 reg cab is 80 x 209 inches and the Ridgeline is 78 x 210 so really the same size.

 

I myself considered the maverick but I was out after I discovered the bed was 54 inches long. I regularly pick up loads of gravel and stone during the summer with a bucket that is about 63" wide and you would be spilling it over the tailgate with a bed that short. The Ridgeline bed is 64" long so if you do anything like that its worth considering. The F150 reg cab bed is 78" long which is a big plus.

The Honda 3.5 and the Ford 3.3 are both good engines. The duratec 33 is direct and port fuel injection if carbon buildup concerns you. The Honda is direct only. Then as mentioned you have a timing chain on the Ford vs belt on the Ridgeline. Getting technical the Honda is single overhead cam vs dual overhead on the Ford. The fuel mileage is pretty much the same between the two. Curb weight on the F150 is 4275 lbs and 4450 for the Ridgeline. Power steering on both trucks is electric assist. (No more fluid).

Ford did have some issues in the past with their 4x4 systems related to the wheel hub. The IWE (integrated wheel end) system was prone to vacuum issues but for the 2021 year they switched to an electronic integrated wheel end that is supposed to be an improvement. I haven't heard of any issues with that system but it's still new.

If you step up to the super cab F150 you can option it with the 302a package which gets you to a similar feature set as you get with the Ridgeline. (Heated seats, remote start, lane keep / collision mitigation, etc.) The Ridgeline will inevitably ride better. The F150 reg cab is 80 x 209 inches and the Ridgeline is 78 x 210 so really the same size.

Great info, thanks @se.greenwald!!

 

Unless Honda fixes the stalling problem in my truck, after a longer drive, I'll not buy another. No one should have to worry about your truck having no power, for no reason. My problem has been escalated up the path and the response was to adjust the valves. They haven't a clue as to what is causing this and throwing mud at the wall to see what sticks. I'll say it again, when almost getting clipped, by a Semi, because of lack of power, after coming off the freeway, and attempting to merge onto the next road, I no longer feel safe. Step up Honda. People are going to get injured or killed in your modern machine if you don't get this fixed. I must admit that I love the truck other than that.

 

There’s 7 people in a recent thread with newer Ridgelines with this exact problem. And that’s all I do, is longer drives/commutes.

 

Have not had my RL for long but after 5,000 miles and monitoring the VCM with the Scanguage I observed that it VCM is rarely active. It is really when the vehicle is coasting at speed with zero or extremely little pressure on the gas pedal. If you are accelerating it is off. When you get to a slower speed stopping at a light it is off. So don’t Think it causes the damage the older ones did. Time will tell. I do have the warranty extended which I am sure I will regret. I looked on cars.com and there were some pretty high mileage 2017s above 150k. Funny thing is they ask $20k for these high milers.

 

I just purchased a 2019 RTL-E with only 17,000 miles and I too am concerned about the same reliability issues.. This one’s in new condition, as if it came off the showroom floor, with a clean history but the warranty only lasts another six months.
I just didn’t want to tack on an additional $3000.00 to the purchase price, for the extended warranty.

 

You can get a extended warranty for 1500 or even less online

 

Chances of you getting a hybrid Maverick in 2022 is almost nil.

 

Not to mention the hybrid Maverick is 2WD only. He has a very steep hill that gets lots of snow but says he doesn't need 4WD because winter tires???

 

Why don't ya Just buy the trouble free Ford and be done with it. No worries about VCM, lack of power, dependability etc. That way you
will not lose sleep wondering if the Ridgeline will collapse in a smoking
heap at the coming of the dawn.

FWIW: My 2019 Ridgeline is a great vehicle. None of the above problems, Over the past year I have been asking all the Ridgeline owners I meet about their vehicle dependability. Last week I met a guy that was on his 4th Ridgeline. Two Gen 1's and 2 Gen 2's. In all the years he said he had suspension problems with one.

 

I have not read about the stalling problem other than this thread. I don’t know about the maverick except reviews I have watched and I had a 3rd gen Tacoma for 80k miles. The Maverick will not provide the quiet cabin and personally not thrilled with maintenance a turbo may require. The Tacoma is very reliable but you would pay in comfort and also road noise. Just can’t beat the comfort in the Ridge. I expect a decade and at least 150,000 miles out of mine and I will be pulling my 3,700lb travel trailer across the US with it.

 

The Tacoma is very reliable but you would pay in comfort and also road noise. Just can’t beat the comfort in the Ridge.

This is so true. Went on a long road trip with a buddy and I was surprised just how uncomfortable it was.

 

Test-drive them and buy what you like; otherwise, you'll be second-guessing your purchase for the next five years.

I've not heard of any VCM problems on any Ridgelines. There's the occasional, but rare, motor mount issue, but no actual VCM problems. Heck, my wife's 2008 Accord, from back when Honda did actually have problems with VCM, has 150k miles on it and has had no VCM issues.

Timing belt vs chain? This has been covered before, but timing chains should be replaced, also. They are much less likely to fail, so people never replace them and then wonder why their engine feels so tired with 150k in it (yes, timing chains stretch, and you lose performance and MPG over time). With a belt change, it's like you have a new motor again for $1200. The expense isn't bad if you plan for it. There is speculation that Honda sticks with the timing belt because it provides much more precise timing on the valves when vtec kicks in. Also, the belt is quieter. Pick your poison.

If you don't need a truck, consider an SUV, or a sedan if you want best bang for your buck. The Big3 mfrs are putting all of their goodies into top trim full-size trucks, so you gotta pay if you wanna play in that arena. Honda and Toyota still put their max goodies in their sedans.

Also, keep in mind that you will need to change the diff fluid every 15k miles on the Ridgeline... a small price to pay for having the best AWD system available. Not an issue if you DIY, which isn't hard. Otherwise, you just need to find a trusted mechanic in your neighborhood. My Honda dealer is over an hour away, too, but I don't sweat it.

You just need to figure out what you want. For me, the tailgate and trunk are worth an easy $5k over another truck. The Ridgeline also boasts some of the best safety ratings, MPG and performance in the Top 2 or 3 mid-size trucks, best AWD system, best convenience, best comfort and driving, etc. Frankly, the competition hates it, so they've been reduced to calling it names and harping on things that few people do (like technical off-roading).

 

Test-drive them and buy what you like; otherwise, you'll be second-guessing your purchase for the next five years.

Great advice.

 

I agree with Longboat. If the problems with the 6-sp automatic (17-19), the fuel injector problem (‘17 - replaced with much better FIs) , the fuel pump problem (‘17 - 18 or 19?), the wiring harness problem (‘17, 18 or 19), fluttering hood (17-20) are removed, then not much is left. I didn’t have the infamous leak on either my 17 or 22.
So, with the ‘21-‘22, those previous problems have been addressed.
I also prefer a timing belt but would like port and direct fuel injection (vs DI only) as well as hydraulic valves. VCM is also a negative to me. By the time my RL reaches 60-70K miles, I‘ll likely be 80 but hopefully I’ll still have the patience to adjust the valves (patience is required on the back bank) and to change (9-sp) transmission fluid. Oil, transfer case and rear diff are easy.
I think the ‘21 on should have fewer problems and no major maintenance problems. For these reasons, I had no reservations replacing my ‘17 with a ‘22.

 

I just purchased a 2019 RTL-E with only 17,000 miles and I too am concerned about the same reliability issues..

Now is the time to sell it. People standing in line here that are wanting one and not concerned about reliability issues.

 

I'm getting tired of this thread....
Look:
EVERY truck maker has issues. I have an F150, getting close to 200,000 miles on it. 2011, with the first year of the twin turbo 3.5. zero problems and yes - I spent $ changing the timing chain at 100,000. Regular maintenance works. I've been blessed with a near perfect truck and maybe I was lucky. I know there are plenty of horror stories on the 3.5 - I just didn't have any. I have 5 friends with Dodge's and 4 wish they didn't have 'em. Two with the baby diesel and two with air suspensions that fail in one or more corners when the temperature get cold. But watch the commercials and Dodge will tell you they have the most reliable truck according to new surveys. Whatever.
Nissan's with cylinder 7 issues. Guys that have come here from Chevy who will never go back.
The list goes on and on.
They all make good trucks, but some have issues from mild to wild.
I'm dropping a bunch of my hard-earned on an RL BECAUSE it's a Honda and for the reliability. We have a 2018 RDX with the same powerplant and it's been super.
Whatever you buy, you'll probably do ok. But the crew here have given me confidence to go along with how the RDX has proven itself.
I've ordered and am buying a Ridgeline. And I'm pretty sure I'll be as happy as almost everyone here.
Yes, I'll shut up now...

 

I'm getting tired of this thread....
Look:

Yes, I'll shut up now...

Did you know this forum does NOT require you to read threads you don't like? But by responding to it, you are furthering it's lifespan.

If only you knew how many of these threads we have had in the 17 years before you joined....

 

It really comes down to what the truck will be used for. Both are very reliable and won't leave you stranded. The payload is something I forgot to mention and between the two it's very close. The ridgeline will handle a little over 1500 lbs and the F150 comes in around 1850 lbs. Another point to mention is the transmission. Some folks have commented that the Ford / GM 10R is somewhat noisy and while I haven't noticed it personally it's possible under certain situations. The gears are straight cut vs helical which naturally makes them noisier. Personally I wish Ford would have went with the ZF8HP. It's very smooth and quiet.

The ZF9HP in the Ridgeline seems to be working very well for everyone with no major complaints. The dog clutches that are used from gear 4 to 5 and 7 to 8 can feel "different" to some people mainly because they take a fraction of a second longer to complete. The dog clutches have to align and then connect due to the fact they have teeth. It doesn't affect reliability with the 9HP though.

 

Sorry, but I can't stop from laughing You are interested in reliability and looking at FORD's...are you kidding me???

 

BEST selling truck in America, yo!