[molson.david]

My steering wheel buttons back lighting has never worked. Even when having the wheel swapped out for the heated one. I just assumed they were not suppose to light up, even though was sure my 2006 RTL had lights on the wheel buttons. All the dash lighting works however. Is there a seperate fuse for steering wheel lighting or is it also running thru fuses #4 or #25?

Have you ever resolved the issue?
What was it?

 

[molson.david]

This is why dealers shouldn't be modifying vehicles' electrical systems. It's possible this all stems from a factory defect, but the more likely explanation is rooted in the dealer-installed tracking device.

Maybe you are right.
As far as I've been told they did not replace anything last time, just fixed the connector.
The tracking device was removed and per tech's it was not connected to any affected by the defective connector circuits anyway...

 

[zroger73]

They'll never admit to any wrongdoing. I wouldn't be surprised if the previous issue was actually a shorted wire and not a loose connector. You said a fuse was blown last time. Well, a loose connector implies an open circuit, not a short circuit. Fuses don't blow due to open circuits - they blow due to current faults caused by short circuits.

What statement makes the dealer look better?

"We found a nick in a wire that we had tapped into to install an aftermarket accessory that was not approved by Honda. This caused a short. We 'patched' it by wrapping electrical tape around the damaged insulation and hope that it won't short out again during the warranty period."

"We found a loose connector and re-seated it."

You may have a faulty cable reel ("clock spring") in the steering column or a faulty steering wheel backlight. This could have been what caused the fuse to blow originally, but the dealer couldn't duplicate the fault so they just made up a story that they found a loose connector in order to get reimbursed from Honda for their time and make themselves look competent.

This is just how dealers work - I don't trust any of them because I know first hand how they operate.

 

[molson.david]

They'll never admit to any wrongdoing. I wouldn't be surprised if the previous issue was actually a shorted wire and not a loose connector. You said a fuse was blown last time. Well, a loose connector implies an open circuit, not a short circuit. Fuses don't blow due to open circuits - they blow due to current faults caused by short circuits.

What statement makes the dealer look better?

"We found a nick in a wire that we had tapped into to install an aftermarket accessory that was not approved by Honda. This caused a short. We 'patched' it by wrapping electrical tape around the damaged insulation and hope that it won't short out again during the warranty period."

"We found a loose connector and re-seated it."

You may have a faulty cable reel ("clock spring") in the steering column or a faulty steering wheel backlight. This could have been what caused the fuse to blow originally, but the dealer couldn't duplicate the fault so they just made up a story that they found a loose connector in order to get reimbursed from Honda for their time and make themselves look competent.

This is just how dealers work - I don't trust any of them because I know first hand how they operate.

The first time "the "interior light'" connector that plugs into the MICU was defective or not installed like it should".
I worked for a dealer and agree with you, quality of service has slipped big time and that common for all "mass brands".

 

[molson.david]

Update: my 7 month 800 miles old clockspring is out and need to be replaced...
They have the part in stock and assured me it's not a difficult job and not that uncommon.
Have you ever heard about a clock spring going out before 100K+? I haven't.
Wondering what's going to fail next.

 

[jskicet]

I haven't look at my steering wheel lights yet but can anyone tell me if your headlamp switch (turn signal stalk) is back lit. I have to turn on the interior lights to make sure my lights are on automatic. Some times I turn them to manual. Usually if I'm parked running somewhere and my headlights are blinding someone.

 

[zroger73]

I haven't look at my steering wheel lights yet but can anyone tell me if your headlamp switch (turn signal stalk) is back lit.

It is not. I've never seen one that was.

 

[molson.david]

^

I haven't look at my steering wheel lights yet but can anyone tell me if your headlamp switch (turn signal stalk) is back lit. I have to turn on the interior lights to make sure my lights are on automatic. Some times I turn them to manual. Usually if I'm parked running somewhere and my headlights are blinding someone.

Not on my RL.

 

[carl.poplawsky]

Along those lines....should the 3 garage door buttons in the roof console be lit? Mine are not.

 

[zroger73]

Along those lines....should the 3 garage door buttons in the roof console be lit? Mine are not.

They were on my 2017 and 2019 RTL-Es. What is your year and trim?

 

[molson.david]

They were on my 2017 and 2019 RTL-Es. What is your year and trim?

View attachment 431419

I got factory "home link" mirror and buttons are lit. 22 RTL.

 

[Geo1nj]

Yes they should be lit up...

My 2022 RTLE steering wheel lights are very dim. I don’t think anything can be adjusted and cannot be seen while driving.

 

[zroger73]

Interior brightness is adjusted using the + and - buttons below the right side of the instrument cluster.

 

[Geo1nj]

I agree with yeti. That control does nothing for the steering wheel lights. I’ve tried this also.