[molson.david]

I've sealed the "valleys" with included adhesive foam. My kit came with a foam strip about 6 ft long 2" wide and 0.5" thick and I used a few pieces to seal these "valleys.
In my case the outer bulge/edge of the cover goes like the red line shows. I've pushed it more forward and worked the foam seal in-between the bed and rail as much as I could've, but about 3/4" of the gasket width is still just hanging uncompressed. I'll take a few pics later.

And do you think the metal brackets would rust over time?
How about applying some thick lubricant on them to prevent rust?

 

[Skier76]

Installed mine last night. Ordered Friday from Amazon and free shipping was a week + out. It arrived Sunday! So that was a nice surprise.

As mentioned, wording in the directions is spotty in certain steps. “Stack some washers” should read stack three large washers under each mount. Install took under an hour. Final fit looks really good!

Quick tip:
I only had a driver T-30 bit and the 6 bolts were all torqued to way different specs. I learned this trick from watching a plumber do some work at our house a few years back. Use some locking pliers to clamp on the shaft; push with one hand and use the other to help with the torque. Worked for me thankfully. And I picked up a set of torx bits so I have them going forward.

 

[fdeno]

I used varying numbers of washers at the different mount points, several of the 6 mount points only have 2; I judged the spacing needed to make the bed rail frame clamp lay flat and exactly horizontal and then did a go/no-go check on the gap using various numbers of stacked washers. This got the NM frame down really tight on the bed rails and I haven't had any leaks so far.
Yeah the directions are pretty lame.

 

[Skier76]

That’s good to know!

I have noticed the rails are a little closer to the inside of the bed on the trailgate side vs the window side. Seems to be pretty flush.

I do get some fluttering at highway speeds. Seems that‘s normal? No audible sound in the cabin.

 

[fdeno]

Fluttering is unavoidable and its actually air rushing over the top of the cover creatung some low pressue vibrations. The rails at the tailgate are closer so that the pins that secure the back of the cover are fully seated.

 

[molson.david]

Here is how much forward my cover is sitting.

and how mush of the seal is still hanging in the air. I've tucked the seal between the rail and bed as much as I could've. The phot taken from inside of the bed.

Any more forward and the cover will be rubbing on the C-pillar covers way too hard and tailgate to cover seal will be compromised.

And in my case one washer per bracket was enough.
I hand tightened the "bed bolts" and bracket bolts with only one washer under rail clamps, then wiggled brackets in perfect position/alignment with rails, sat on the rail to press it down and tightened all bolts. Because mounting brackets have elongated bolt holes they have enough play up and down and don't really need any washers.
I'm planning to replace clamp bolt top washers with spring washers to keep bolts from loosening.

 

[Apex]

That looks about right. You can't push the cover too close to the cab or it will not cover the tailgate. A light touch to the C-pillar or even a small gap is where I have it. I moved the gasket forward as mentioned above. With my setup there is zero water leaking between the cover and bed rail. However water does come up through the holes at the bottom of the bed.

 

[Skier76]

This is really helpful everyone. Thank you! I’ll go have a look and possibly make some adjustments to the stacked washers.

 

[molson.david]

Quick tip:
I only had a driver T-30 bit and the 6 bolts were all torqued to way different specs. I learned this trick from watching a plumber do some work at our house a few years back. Use some locking pliers to clamp on the shaft; push with one hand and use the other to help with the torque. Worked for me thankfully. And I picked up a set of torx bits so I have them going forward.

View attachment 431557

Mine were torqued to different specs as well. One was almost stripped, I as afraid I wont be able to remove it.
Did you keep rubber washers on the "bed bolts"? I removed them cuz they were squeezing from under the bolts.

 

[Apex]

The washer stack depends largely on where you mounted the bracket to the bed. The higher the bracket, the less washers. I don't think there is a right/wrong way. What is important is the rail is firmly held down and the gasket between is evenly compressed.

I tossed the rubber washers under the bolt as the were tearing.

 

[molson.david]

That looks about right. You can't push the cover too close to the cab or it will not cover the tailgate. A light touch to the C-pillar or even a small gap is where I have it. I moved the gasket forward as mentioned above. With my setup there is zero water leaking between the cover and bed rail. However water does come up through the holes at the bottom of the bed.

I'm planning to apply clear weather resistant tape on C-pillars where the cover is rubbing on the paint.
Even if the cover is 100% water proof at the front, there are large non-sealed gaps between the tailgate and bed, so it never gonna be a "moisture proof" area.

 

[Skier76]

Mine were torqued to different specs as well. One was almost stripped, I as afraid I wont be able to remove it.
Did you keep rubber washers on the "bed bolts"? I removed them cuz they were squeezing from under the bolts.

I found it strange that they were to different specs. I’d think going down the line, the installer would have a tool that torqued them all evenly.

I left the rubber on. My guess is they are to keep out moisture?

 

[molson.david]

I found it strange that they were to different specs. I’d think going down the line, the installer would have a tool that torqued them all evenly.

I left the rubber on. My guess is they are to keep out moisture?

My guess these bolts were done manually or with improperly set screw gun and by a few different techs.
My RL came with more than a few assembly related issues. Was not expecting anything like that from Honda.
That stripped bolt is nothing vs a buzzing sound that was coming from the center console since new. A week ago I've installed a dash cam and while I was running cables I found the source of the noise - a barely threaded in bolt with a lose washer under the center tunnel cover.

 

[nimajneb]

I paid $237.99 from Amazon on June 4th, 2022. I've had it on since June 8th with no complaints. This is my first pickup and first cover so I have no comparison other than I spent 1/4 the price of a lot of other covers that are reccomended.

 

[molson.david]

I paid $237.99 from Amazon on June 4th, 2022. I've had it on since June 8th with no complaints. This is my first pickup and first cover so I have no comparison other than I spent 1/4 the price of a lot of other covers that are reccomended.

Bought mine a week ago, same price, same feelings.
I like the idea of a hard tight fit cover, but $1100 for the OEM cover and 70 lb of extra weight make no sense to me.

 

[Skier76]

I know these aren’t water tight… I am, however, getting a bit of leakage from the cab side of the cover. Any tips on how to cut down on the leaks? I have it secured tightly and the edge is very close to the cab.

 

[molson.david]

Is it possible that most of it comes through the floor drainage holes, like Apex in post #67 has stated?
Did you seal the side "valleys"?
Water is puling at the front wall, but neither the front or side bed panels look wet enough.

 

[molson.david]

I've tried a few different things to seal the gap between the front and side bed rail at the cab end and finally found something that can be easily inserted and thick and spongy enough to stay in place without any glue - 3/4 thick pipe foam insulation.

Not sure if anybody else has noticed, but the back rail has a few sharp edges near right and left locks that scuff/scratch the cover when a cover is rolled up.
A piece of anything over these edges should protect a cover from cuts and scuffs.

 

[fdeno]

I put tthis stuff under the front rail along behind the rear window, you can stuff it in there invisibly and it won't go anywhere....

 

[molson.david]

Added a "hard" cardboard floor. Zero" water pooling and it flaps less on HWY now.
2 pc. (left and right) design for easier installation, cardboard is "laminated" with packing tape for water resistance and center ridge to increase rigidity in the middle.