Odyssey is a good brand, but I don't know if they have one to fit the Ridgeline. After that, i would go with Interstate or Sears Diehard Gold (good quality, and can be found at Kmart, if you still have one of those).

TBH, I usually just get the cheapest battery at Wal-Mart and put the receipt in the glove box. If it starts to fail, usually not a big deal to trade it out. That is probably the most economical path if you do your own work.

 

Many posts in the G1 section, several have opted to use the Odyssey others really like Optima both are AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) and I know there are others.

 

OE batteries are built to a price point so that "most" will last through the three-year warranty period. Some will fail early and the manufacturers planned on that. A few will last longer. From what I've seen, the Honda-branded 100-month batteries that are used as service replacements are better than the OE batteries.

 

If your battery is failing or barely able to start your vehicle then something is amiss. Your vehicle including the battery is under warranty and you should take up this issue again with your dealer. You may have an issue with charging, associated wiring wiring or an improper power drain.

The OEM battery may not be the best that money can buy but it should certainly be able to do its job for 3-4 years.

Basically find out what your issue is and have Honda fix it.

 

I can’t understand how every one here has a different idea and yet I agree with everyone. I thought I was more disagreeable.

I was going to ask if you could check the amount of water in it but it could be completely sealed. Then there was this matter of very low temperature causing the terminal connection to be loose. How about clean and well a little oil to the terminal. I had bought, years ago, a small contraption that had a 9 volt battery within, to be inserted in the cigarrette lighter, before the battery change, so security codes, data etc would not be lost during the removal of the old battery. Any way if the dealer is doing this for you then disregard.

 

I had bought, years ago, a small contraption that had a 9 volt battery within, to be inserted in the cigarrette lighter, before the battery change, so security codes, data etc would not be lost during the removal of the old battery.

Rigidline, your power supply will not work on the RL using the cigarette lighter jack. Also using a battery booster with the cigarette lighter jack will not work. That jack is not powered when the truck is off.

Next replacement battery for me will be an AGM type. The AGM battery is used in the Pilot Elite for the Auto Start/Stop feature (curse).

 

I’ve always felt that buying a replacement vehicle battery can be an expensive crap shoot. I usually buy remanufactured batteries from Battery Warehouse. The last one I bought for my 2002 Cadillac lasted 9 years. I normally get 5 years minimum use. I do try to maintain them with trickle chargers when they sit unused, as I have 8 vehicles and a couple motorcycles.

 

I'm on my 4th battery on my RL purchased new in 2007. First battery (OEM) went bad a little over two-years later. The second one replaced under warranty (Honda 100 Month battery) lasted just under five-years. Third battery, an Optima Red Top lasted just under three-years and was replaced earlier this year under warranty. I don't have any additional electronics etc. to produce additional demand etc. I agree with another post that it is a crap shoot.

My recommendations:
1. Honda 100 month batteries are not.
2. Buy the battery with the longest full-replacement warranty.

 

If he has a 2nd Generation Ridgeline the battery is still under warranty.
Have dealer check out again to see if any power drainage or battery itself.
I would not spend a dime on a new battery if your not sure of problem.
You buy a new battery from somewhere and something on the vehicle is cause your just spent extra money. 2nd generation Ridgeline the battery is not even 2 years old depending when you purchased vehicle.

 

Well, just retrieved my Ridgeline from the dealer and, sure enough, the OEM battery was dead and required replacement! Service person related that they indeed are experiencing abnormally high failure rates on OEM batteries from Honda. This makes 3 battery failures, on 3 new Honda vehicles, on my street, all in the 8 to 13 month time frame from purchase! Service person claims better life on the non-OEM batteries they use as replacements. We’ll see........

 

So did you get a new battery under warranty? Was it the Honda Labeled one which is shown somewhere on the site as being delivered from an Interstate Battery Delivery Driver?

 

Carsmak, I did receive a new replacement battery from the dealer, but, being already dark outside and minus 5 degrees, I wasn’t in a rush to explore the engine compartment for a battery label! Perhaps tomorrow when we have light and positive temps, LOL!

 

Modern battery management systems purposely undercharge the battery, which leads to plate sulfating and loss of active material. Reducing the load on the alternator results in slightly better EPA fuel mileage numbers. Battery life is traded for better EPA numbers.

I suggest that in the winter you hook up an external battery charger once or twice a month.

 

Just to share my experience, at the very first service, here in my country is at 1000km, I went to the dealer with a fully functioning battery, just as they delivered me the RL on the exit of the dealers garage it died completly.

What happened was they were going to give me the RL running, which is odd I have other Honda vehicles with the same dealer and they never do this, but since I have this muscle memory of whenever I get inside any of my cars I start them to get on my way, just this time they gave it to me already running, so instead I shut it off by mistake. Much to my surprise the RL couldn't even start, there was a sound comming from the starter as it was trying to start but it seemed it lacked the energy to do so.

They told me at the beginning of the service they check the battery and had the paper the tester printed and everything was normal, they took it back into the workshop and tested again and the battery was 100% dead, it didn't even sent a single volt of power to the tester.

I was lucky enough that they had replaced so many of this batteries in other customers that they ran out of OEM batteries for the RL, since they couldn't explained why it died and it was under warranty, they accepted my request of buying and installing an aftermarket battery (a brand I like and have been using for 10 years in 4 different cars without problems, sealed and maintance free), so they did. I asked for this since never in my life a OEM battery has failed so horribly and in a 2 month period of ownership of a car...

Thats my experience hope this helps others, I highly suggest you turn off and on your RL before leaving the dealer, this save me a lot of trouble since it would have failed on me on the parking lot at my work.

 

Just to share my experience, at the very first service, here in my country is at 1000km, I went to the dealer with a fully functioning battery, just as they delivered me the RL on the exit of the dealers garage it died completly.
................I was lucky enough that they had replaced so many of this batteries in other customers that they ran out of OEM batteries for the RL, since they couldn't explained why it died and it was under warranty, they accepted my request of buying and installing an aftermarket battery (a brand I like and have been using for 10 years in 4 different cars without problems, sealed and maintance free), so they did. I asked for this since never in my life a OEM battery has failed so horribly and in a 2 month period of ownership of a car...

Wow! This sounds ominous. My 2017 RTL-E's battery has operated flawlessly since delivery in Oct. 2016; 16,750+ miles on odometer. Currently single digits on a Fahrenheit thermometer in the AM, truck is parked outside and it has started without hesitation every time.

 

Think so? Interesting thought, increase mileage by under powering the alternator... I carry an extra battery and swap them out every month or so because I never could understand why both my Interstate and Diehard can't stay charged in the truck... I don't use the lighters much and never even run the radio without the truck running anymore and yet, somehow the batteries weaken and die... I don't use daylight headlights and always turn them off when I stop, so when I start the truck it doesn't carry the headlight load... I cringe when I see the cargo lights on fearing that I may need to swap batteries again, and before I load the bed heavy, I start the truck because my second battery is in the trunk, and too many times I had to empty the bed because the truck wouldn't start... I never thought about checking the output of the alternator since it would be dumb to install an alternator that doesn't do it's most important job...

 

No, MJWayne, It's not the weather...
I live In Southern Cal-Is-Fornicated, where the weather is "perfect" year round... Batteries are not mechanical and therefore can't be made to fail, they simply take in what is given to them and let it out as requested... "OutOfHere", a NonRidgeline Owner suggests an underpowered alternator to increase gas mileage... If your truck is still under warranty, you should have the dealer check it and install a proper alternator... The Alternator's job is to keep your battery charged WHILE running headlights, the radio and all the other potential loads that came with the truck...
I carry a spare battery and swap them out every couple months... My original lasted a year longer than the warranted time, and I replaced it with a Diehard which wouldn't stay charged, I swapped it a couple times before switching to Interstate, but had the same luck, so now I use both...
I live at 72 degrees year round (give or take 20 degrees), don't use daytime running lights, never start the engine with the headlights on, rarely use the cigarette lighters, never use the radio without the truck running, cringe when I see the cargo or interior lights on, and never load the bed full without first starting the truck, since my spare is in the trunk and I've already had to unload to swap the battery a couple times...
All this makes me think "OutOfHere" may be onto something, as stupid as using a part that can't do it's job would be...

 

Batteries are not mechanical per se, but they are subjected to mechanical vibrations and stresses.

Also, extremely hot weather and overcharging are the two main reasons for shortened battery life.

 

I think the batteries just aren't able to handle the draw-down and recharge cycles many experience with all of the electronics. Even AGM batteries are no panacea:

The life expectancy; measured as cycle life or years remains excellent in most AGM batteries if the batteries are not discharged more than 60% between recharge.​

Gel might be better.
My RL is fine (bought Aug'17, 6k miles), but we just replaced my wife's MDX battery under warranty. As you know, the drivetrain is virtually identical on her 2015 MDX, same battery, etc. I'm deliberately avoiding circumstances where I draw my battery down, which is a shame with the in-bed audio system and other fun gadgets. I also put a battery tender on my RL when not in use for a few days.

 

Well, my Ridgeline 2nd gen had a dead battery this morning. Nothing was left on.

Ok! jumped and started and recharged.

I was thinking that it is possible that because all my driving is twice per day and less then twenty minutes. This could be the problem.

Since my temps in Boston have been below zero, I do remote start. So while idling, the normal electric draw is present plus any heated seat or heated mirror. So i figure that my initial drain is always above the total recharge.

Another words, it is not running long enough to recharge the battery and keep up with the heating accessories.

But then I thought, well, Once started the alt should be able to keep up with all accessories plus replenish the battery in short time. Starting it takes little drain.

I realize that it went through the sub zero temps and sat for 3 days. But really!!! the thing only has 3000 miles on it.

 

...But then I thought, well, Once started the alt should be able to keep up with all accessories plus replenish the battery in short time. Starting it takes little drain….

It does not take much time to get a lead acid battery back to a 80% state -of-charge after a vehicle start. But it will require hours to go from 80% to a 100% SOC.

 

Do a one hour drive once a week if you can. Mine's a year old now and most of the time its' a 10-15 minute drive a couple times a day. Then some longer up to 7 hour drives thrown in for variety. In the summer it can sit a week or more parked.

 

Replaced mine under warranty at around 7,500 miles.

 

When my battery was being tested, prior to being found dead at the dealership, one of the service managers suggested that prior to shutdown on extremely cold nights, you shut off the heated seat switch, heated steering wheel, lower the fan setting, and generally power down all the big draw items, run the engine for an additional minute or two, then shut down. Then on remote startup there isn’t such a heavy load immediately placed on the freshly started alternator and battery. Gives a quicker chance to recharge the battery on startup? What say you all?

 

Honda has been making poor quality batteries since 2009 in my experience, Acura TSX, replaced 2 batteries under warranty from first 3 yrs of ownership, third battery I went to Costco and got an Interstate brand for under $78 and with 2 yrs free replacement and a little higher CCA too. Sold TSX with that battery and was still running like a champ.

 

Honda doesn't make batteries. Historically, they've been made by Johnson Controls which makes batteries for many brands including Die Hard, Interstate, and Optima among others. Each battery brand and model of battery is made by Johnson Controls to specification - some are built to price and some are built to last. Honda's replacement batteries made by JC last longer and have a longer warranty than their OE batteries made by JC.

Here is what the dealer told me. He said the alternator does not engage till 2000 rpm. Can this crap be true. So, when i remote start and let it idle in my frigid driveway with the elec defrost and seats on, we are in the negative charge zone. and if i only drive under 2000 rpm (which i do) and have short trips, i am screwed.

All of this is wrong. We should not have to adhere to some regime or be punished with a dead battery. I have been driving for forty years in temps well below -20. I have let cars sit for weeks on end and they start immediately.

He's wrong. The alternator produces power whenever the engine is running, although it produces less power at lower RPMs. If the power output isn't sufficient, the PCM will increase engine idle speed to compensate for the additional load. This is how charging systems have worked for decades.

 

Here is what the dealer told me. He said the alternator does not engage till 2000 rpm. Can this crap be true. So, when i remote start and let it idle in my frigid driveway with the elec defrost and seats on, we are in the negative charge zone. and if i only drive under 2000 rpm (which i do) and have short trips, i am screwed.

All of this is wrong. We should not have to adhere to some regime or be punished with a dead battery. I have been driving for forty years in temps well below -20. I have let cars sit for weeks on end and they start immediately.

 

Here is what the dealer told me. He said the alternator does not engage till 2000 rpm. Can this crap be true...

You can check this out with a clamp style ammeter placed around the battery negative cable.

 

Most Honda OE batteries are crap from my experience. As noted, Johnson Controls products made to a spec. The older ones circa 2004 even had the Delco Parts label 'hidden' on them (but still made by JC).

I've always just gone to Advance Auto and grabbed a decent AutoCraft house branded (also JC manufactured in most cases). You can usually get a 30% off coupon when you buy online and pick up in store.

Easy...although I install myself - no offense to the AA employees skills - and drop off the old battery for the core charge. I've recently bought one of the AutoCraft AGM batteries for my wife's 2011 Tiguan and it seems great after a couple years. AGM is the future...

My G2 (delivered Nov 2016) did crank a little slow on the -2 to -3 F days recently...but that may be reasonable as the OEM battery is not a super high CCA battery.

 

By reading the comments I would like to add that I do use remote start, maybe 3 times a week, morning temperature is aroud 3 to 10 degrees Celcius and my daily drives consists on mostly 5 to 10 minute drives on the city and two long trips, about 100 miles each, every 3 weeks, so mostly super short drives everyday.

It might be that the short drives and remote start worsens the battery life, my RL doesn't have heated seats or steering wheel for that matter.

For the people that had the battery replace like me you might want to add if this is also your driving conditions so we can see if there is correlation.

 

2017 RTS made on 4/17, purchased 8/17. Mostly short trips, 10,200+ miles as of today. Battery has given me no problems yet but I have put "float charger" on it now and then..pray I get at least 5 1/2 years out of it like my wifes 07 CRV OEM.
My last truck a 01 Ranger I got 12 1/2 years out of the factory Motorcraft. Best battery I have ever had.

 

I think for Fuel Efficiency these new "charging" systems have a lot to do with battery failures. I would guess your float charger will add to it's life, significantly.

 

Hey Carsmak, have you ever tried pulling your tightened down cables off the posts? I stumbled onto that a few weeks back when I tried a jump... After installing homemade split copper rings made from 1/2" copper pipe to beef the size of the posts, I can feel the power of my battery like never before... It's too early to tell if my battery will continue to drain, but I'm thinking the (over)size of the cable clamps could be the problem... what do you think?