Great idea. Where did you tap in to power the outlet?

 

Just a little mod I did the other day. 12v outlet in the bed. Honda should have provided this as a standard accessory. It would have only cost them a couple of bucks extra.

What a great idea

 

did you tap into the bed lights or wired through the fuse block to get power?Great Idea...any shots of step by step on how its done?

 

Just a little mod I did the other day. 12v outlet in the bed. Honda should have provided this as a standard accessory. It would have only cost them a couple of bucks extra.

Thank goodness, I thought this was going somewhere else

 

The outlet is wired to a fused 50 amp circuit that runs the entire length of the truck on the drivers side with 8 guage wire. After I completed a few mods I decided that I should go ahead and run a live feed down the entire length of the truck so that my wiring doesnt turn into a spaghetti of wires. I have an additional 12v switched wire that runs down the length of the truck so that if I want to have an accessory that turns on with the ignition I can run a relay off of the main wire. It saves time in running extra power wires unless you install something like an amp which needs its own power circuit.

 

...a fused 50 amp circuit that runs the entire length of the truck on the drivers side with 8 guage wire... I have an additional 12v switched wire that runs down the length of the truck....

ChrisM, I like your style... I did this on an Odyssey I had before the Ridge, makes simple mods like this so clean and easy. I highly recommend running these wires to anyone who is planning more then moderate mod work. I should have done it when I had the truck apart putting in the backup sensors and camera... perhaps when I do the speakers and amps.

-Matt

 

Thank goodness, I thought this was going somewhere else

Oh THAT'S scary, so did I.

 

The outlet is wired to a fused 50 amp circuit that runs the entire length of the truck on the drivers side with 8 guage wire. After I completed a few mods I decided that I should go ahead and run a live feed down the entire length of the truck so that my wiring doesnt turn into a spaghetti of wires. I have an additional 12v switched wire that runs down the length of the truck so that if I want to have an accessory that turns on with the ignition I can run a relay off of the main wire. It saves time in running extra power wires unless you install something like an amp which needs its own power circuit.

Chris? Will you put one in mine, please? I'll meet you half way on 77.
You are the Mod King, I'll tell you that much.

 

Nice work!!! Something I saw on the Tacoma's, which is really nice, is the AC outlet in the bed. I'd like to try to do that sometime. Love the idea of the accessory wire.

 

I have had power in my bed for years.

Unfortunatly, I do not get to use my power as often as I used to.

 

That Warning sticker was the 1st thing I removed from my RL.

 

That Warning sticker was the 1st thing I removed from my RL.

That sticker didn't look removeable to me. I'll be picking it off tonight. Thank you.

PS - I used the heaviest duty power outlet I could find so that I wouldn't rip it out with usage. Unfortunately I didn't plan for opening the trunk when I installed it. The little rubber lid connector rubs when you open and close the trunk. If someone else does this mod they might choose a little better location than I did.

 

Chris - Nice job.

 

I actually had my whole bed out yesterday with the intention of running a winch power kit - I don't know the gauge, but it's a huge wire. Winches can draw 100+ amps. I figured I would tap off this for a 12v or 110v outlet at some future point.

Problem was, I didn't like any route I could find. I didn't like the idea of going through the cabin since that presented firewall issues. I could do under the sill area, but that didn't have much to tie off on. The only other option I saw was following the hard brake lines down from the engine. So I scrapped the idea.

Chris - can you detail (maybe with pictures) how you ran the wire?

 

very nice work and mod indeed!

 

I actually had my whole bed out yesterday with the intention of running a winch power kit - I don't know the gauge, but it's a huge wire. Winches can draw 100+ amps. I figured I would tap off this for a 12v or 110v outlet at some future point.

Problem was, I didn't like any route I could find. I didn't like the idea of going through the cabin since that presented firewall issues. I could do under the sill area, but that didn't have much to tie off on. The only other option I saw was following the hard brake lines down from the engine. So I scrapped the idea.

Chris - can you detail (maybe with pictures) how you ran the wire?

This is unfortunately one of those mods that I did not remember to photograph when I was doing it. The only thing that I can say is that I used a grommet at the front of the bed to get into the cabin and ran the wire under the floor panels at the bottom of the doors and thru grommet in the firewall to the engine compartment. Honda could have done us all a favor and made this a lot easier.

Look on the bright side. I just put a remote starter on my company car and had to actually drill a hole in the firewall as I couldn't find a single grommet that gave direct access to the engine compartment.

 

Once again, I gotta copy Chris on another one!

Some questions for Chris:
(1) Where did you find the 12v outlet or is it a common item that I've just never paid attention to?

(2) You mention some rubbing on the trunk lid... Were there clearance or other issues that precluded any of the three alternate locations I've photochopped in the picture below?

Thanks & (as usual) that's a helluva idea you had!

Joe

 

C Looks like a good spot indeed

 

I will have to copy this one, as well, djeaux. I think the location is limited to what is behind the panel.

Once in a while, I need to charge the Optima yellow top that is in the trunk. I would like to do this with the trunk closed. The plug can double as a power outlet as well.

Thanks for the idea, Chris. I wonder if Dakota or some other company makes a weatherproof digital voltmeter.

 

Once again, I gotta copy Chris on another one!

Some questions for Chris:
(1) Where did you find the 12v outlet or is it a common item that I've just never paid attention to?

(2) You mention some rubbing on the trunk lid... Were there clearance or other issues that precluded any of the three alternate locations I've photochopped in the picture below?

Thanks & (as usual) that's a helluva idea you had!

Joe

You can buy a 12v outlet from most any auto parts store. For my purposes, I got a marine grade outlet that has an insert, twist, and lock feature built into the outlet. You can buy plugs that will literally lock into the outlet. This way you are assured of not having your 12v device pop out when you are driving. My thought when I did this mod was to run my 12v electric cooler while it was in the bed. I would not want the plug to pop out when I was driving. Here is the exact outlet that I used in the bed.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=265-236

I did mention that the trunk lid rubs the outlet waterproof cap connector loop when I open and close the trunk lid. If I open the waterproor cap when I open and close the trunk, it has enough clearance. If I were to do this mod again or if I ever crack the side bed panel I would put the recepticle in a differenet location.

My goal when I installed the outlet was to put it in a location where I could reach it without crawling up in the bed and not to put it somewhere in the bed that might be obscured by cargo and not to mount it in a location where I would have to drill through metal. I pre ran the wire for the bed plug so that I could take out the bed light and grab the wire with a coat hanger and install it so I didn't even have the bed apart when I did this mod.

There are other locations in the back of the truck that would also be suitable. Unfortunately I would have to take the bed back apart to find one for you. I would bet that if you took the light out of the side of the bed that you would be able to find a suitable mounting location a little farther back than what I used that would clear the trunk. I'm thinking that there is a spot right under that static electricity warning sticker that might suit your needs. I can tell you that locations A,B,ChrisM, & D are not good spots. Spot A is too narrow, location B prohibits flush mounting, spot ChrisM hits the trunk lid and location D has multiple problems. Location C might work but I think that there is a metal bulkhead behind that area. My best guess would be a spot right between where I mounted my plug and the static electricity sticker. I'll have to pull my light out and feel around back there before I give you a final answer.

 

I would like to mention that there is one other option for running this wire that has not been discussed that would save everyone a bunch of time. I would not feel uncomfortable running the power wire for the back outlet UNDER the truck inside of 1" PVC pipe from front to back. There are plenty of spots to mount this pipe under the truck where it will not be melted by the exhaust or the engine. All you would have to do is buy a few joints and mirror the bottom of the truck. This solution would give you an easy route that would allow you not to have to take out the back seat and the bed. There is even a predrilled hole in the bottom side of the bed to run the wire through. Normally I would never encourage routing a wire under a vehicle but the RL has enough ground clearance to do this and if you ran the wire correctly you could use the frame to armor the PVC pipe.

 

I would like to mention that there is one other option for running this wire that has not been discussed that would save everyone a bunch of time. I would not feel uncomfortable running the power wire for the back outlet UNDER the truck inside of 1" PVC pipe from front to back...

As an electrician, I work with a lot of PVC pipe. There are a few concerns. First, pvc can become very brittle with age and UV exposure. I have shattered many pipes while attempting to cut them that were exposed to sun and air for as little as 2 years. I think driving would exasperate this condition.

Secondly, unless you properly and permanently seal the pipe at both ends, you risk insulation damage as dirt and moisture collect over time and abrade the wires with normal road vibrations. This is a concern with most wire installs, but since you can't secure wire at intervals within a pipe, I think the risk is greater.

On a positive note, PVC pipe can be easily bent and custom-formed using a simple propane torch, a flame-spreading attachment, and some practice. Slowly and evenly heat the area you want to bend while rotating the pipe. If it turns brown, you got it too hot or stayed in one place too long. The pvc will remain solid, and then very rapidly get a glassy look and soften dramatically. Keep heating the pipe a little longer (10-20 seconds) to give you some more working time. Gloves help, since the pipe is fairly hot. Quickly place the pipe in the desired position and either a. hold it in place until it cools (up to 3 minutes or so until it becomes workably solid again) or b. Have a helper douse it with a hose or rub it down with a wet rag. You can work it one bend at a time or heat the entire 10 foot stick. I prefer one at a time so all the straight sections stay clean and straight. There are "heating blankets" and "hot boxes" for this, too if you can manage to borrow one, but at around $300 and up you probably don't need to buy one to do what a $15 propane torch kit can do.

You might also try liquidtight flex. You would have to secure it at closer intervals, but it is simpler to route. I would recommend routing and cutting liquidtight, removing it and laying it flat to pull the wire through, and then reinstalling it as one assembly. It tends to have a more "grippy" interior and is much easier to pull through when it has minimal bends.

 

I would not feel uncomfortable running the power wire for the back outlet UNDER the truck inside of 1" PVC pipe from front to back. There are plenty of spots to mount this pipe under the truck where it will not be melted by the exhaust or the engine. All you would have to do is buy a few joints and mirror the bottom of the truck.

Thanks for the additional info, Chris. Truthfully, I hadn't thought of going in via the tail light or bed light opening to snoop around, but that would certainly be a lot easier than taking out the whole side panel. And the PVC conduit idea is interesting, although I have to confess that the only way I'd mirror the bottom of my truck would be if I bought a few joints!

One more question: Drill or drill-then-holesaw? Did you have any worries about the composite material chipping or cracking during the process?

 

Thanks for the additional info, Chris. Truthfully, I hadn't thought of going in via the tail light or bed light opening to snoop around, but that would certainly be a lot easier than taking out the whole side panel. And the PVC conduit idea is interesting, although I have to confess that the only way I'd mirror the bottom of my truck would be if I bought a few joints!

One more question: Drill or drill-then-holesaw? Did you have any worries about the composite material chipping or cracking during the process?

I used a hole saw. The composite material drilled very much more like wood than like fiberglass. It didnot splinter at all. There was a very fine dust generated from the drilling process.

I would very highly advise anyone who does this mod to wear a dust mask.

I have no idea what the composite bed is made of but it didn't react to drilling like I thought it would. It would probably be easier to find out what is in Hormel Spam than than to find out what the composite bed is made of.

 

Anyone come up with any different install locations and water tight plugs? I'm thinking of doing this mod myself and just curious what other options I might have.

 

Chris, I just saw this thread for the first time. You never cease to amaze me with your creativity and the innovative things you come up with. I'm a real doofus with this kind of stuff, and I always enjoy seeing somebody who's good at it. Nice work! And hey, why aren't you on Honda's payroll??

 

I parked next to a Sport Trac recently, looked over into the bed & there was what appeared to be a factory version of ChrisM's "power in the bed" mod, dressed up with a little rectangular housing around it.

 

Yea, I know. I've been thinking about starting to patent a few of my ideas. This ain't the first time that one of my ideas has shown up on a vehicle or in the retail world. If you ask anyone in my family, they'll all tell you that I came up with the idea of television and the internet but alas, someone else stole them and beat me to market.

What is my next big idea?

Smell-a-vision!

With smell-a-vision you not only get to see and hear the action, you can now smell that garbage dump they are sifting thru on CSI right from the comfort of your own home!