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For the first time since I swapped my Ridgeline for a CX-5, I needed to haul home a couple of 1x4x8 pieces of lumber. I still had inches to spare. :)

The black sheep I bought for my Ridgeline had to make a cameo appearance.

404180
 
I just bought a 2009 Honda Ridgeline. I am researching lumber racks and would appreciate input.

This product came up when I did a search for racks specific to my car.

However, this is a universal rack and I am not sure that this fits since there are no rails.


Any input would be appreciated on this product or other comparable products..

Thanks,

RW
 
I just bought a 2009 Honda Ridgeline. I am researching lumber racks and would appreciate input.

This product came up when I did a search for racks specific to my car.

However, this is a universal rack and I am not sure that this fits since there are no rails.


Any input would be appreciated on this product or other comparable products..

Thanks,

RW
US Rack has a its own section in the Vendor section on this site . . .
You should do some searching as there is plenty on this site on racks for the GenI.
 
US Rack has a its own section in the Vendor section on this site . . .
You should do some searching as there is plenty on this site on racks for the GenI.
Thx. Aware of US Rack. There is a similar two piece rack to the Ridgeline 2 that holds 800 lbs. Do you know if this will fit? See link below. Apex Aluminum Utility Truck Rack
 
I need your suggestion on how to haul ten 2x4x18 foot stringers. I read this thread and there is great advice on everything up to 16 feet. Anyone have advice or experience to transport lumber that is 18 feet long? Will a bed extender do this? It is about 10 miles from yard to project. Thank you for your insights.
 
Hitch extender* + lumber through the rear slider, or up on roof rails.

Note that hauling lumber through the slider is inherently dangerous, although I've never had issues and do not personally know of any issues. Just don't do it during rush hour.

Last summer, i hauled five 16' 2x12s without a hitch extender, with all five sticking through the slider. Bubble wrap and towels around the lumber wherever it contacts the truck interior.

Strap it down good with ratchet straps, and don't forget red/orange flag on the end (varies by locale, but usually 12"x12" hazard flagging).

* Something like this, but you'll want it to adjust to either rear slider height or roof rack height.

 
I need your suggestion on how to haul ten 2x4x18 foot stringers. I read this thread and there is great advice on everything up to 16 feet. Anyone have advice or experience to transport lumber that is 18 feet long? Will a bed extender do this? It is about 10 miles from yard to project. Thank you for your insights.
What is a 2x4x18 "stringer"? Are you simply talking about an 18' long 2x4?
 
What is a 2x4x18 "stringer"? Are you simply talking about an 18' long 2x4?
TY I meant to type 2x4x18 rafter. Yes taking about an 18 foot long board. I may also consider renting a 12 foot U-Haul trailer that would result in a 3 foot overhang at both ends, as they allow the RD to pull it, just a thought.
 
TY I meant to type 2x4x18 rafter. Yes taking about an 18 foot long board. I may also consider renting a 12 foot U-Haul trailer that would result in a 3 foot overhang at both ends, as they allow the RD to pull it, just a thought.
This is the absolute best solution. Sometimes we must use our head rather than the truck.
 
Do you have a sliding rear window? If so, to haul qty 10 2x4x18s I would simply open the rear window, put some protection on the dash and window frame / rear seat cushion (towels etc) and slide the boards in, in 2 stacks of 5. Keep them a few inches from the windshield. Use a ratchet strap in strangle hold (connect to the lower rear tie downs and wrap the strap once around the 10 2x4s) to cinch down and lock the boards from being able to slide forward. Put a flag on the rear. . .I do construction for a living and I do have roof rack and would probably use it in this case but I have hauled long board through the rear window MANY times. What are you doing with 18' long 2x4s? 16's are about the longest I typically use for top and bottom plates on wall framing and it is very difficult to find even reasonably straight boards. 18's are an unusual size.
I most certainly wouldn't rent a trailer to haul 10 2x4s., even at 18' of length. Having them delivered would be more practical if you are hesitant.
 
I remember back in the day with my Ranger 6 ft. bed we loaded in some I think 4x4's or 4x6's x 16 ft for a playground. Did not put them through the window but used a cargo bar to wedge them in at an angle. Gate was closed. My brother in law sat on top of them as well. It was so light in the front the steering was almost non existent but the V6 felt strong. When I got hone I noticed one of the rear shocks was leaking.:rolleyes:
 
I remember back in the day with my Ranger 6 ft. bed we loaded in some I think 4x4's or 4x6's x 16 ft for a playground. Did not put them through the window but used a cargo bar to wedge them in at an angle. Gate was closed. My brother in law sat on top of them as well. It was so light in the front the steering was almost non existent but the V6 felt strong. When I got hone I noticed one of the rear shocks was leaking.:rolleyes:
10, 18ft 2x4s would max out at 150lbs at most. They aren't going to hurt the Ridge's suspension.
 
Do you have a sliding rear window? If so, to haul qty 10 2x4x18s I would simply open the rear window, put some protection on the dash and window frame / rear seat cushion (towels etc) and slide the boards in, in 2 stacks of 5. Keep them a few inches from the windshield. Use a ratchet strap in strangle hold (connect to the lower rear tie downs and wrap the strap once around the 10 2x4s) to cinch down and lock the boards from being able to slide forward. Put a flag on the rear. . .I do construction for a living and I do have roof rack and would probably use it in this case but I have hauled long board through the rear window MANY times. What are you doing with 18' long 2x4s? 16's are about the longest I typically use for top and bottom plates on wall framing and it is very difficult to find even reasonably straight boards. 18's are an unusual size.
I most certainly wouldn't rent a trailer to haul 10 2x4s., even at 18' of length. Having them delivered would be more practical if you are hesitant.
Yes I have the rear window. The distance from the windshield to the tailgate is 13 feet, thus there remains five feet beyond the tail. Are you suggesting a load extender? Those claim to extend four feet. The load extenders cost a few bucks more than the trailer rental, but then I would own it for repeated use.
The 18 footers are rafter ties. This is not my drawing but I labeled the 18 foot tie at the bottom of the roof triangle. I just purchased a house built in 1900 and the detached garage has a badly sagging roofline. There are only three prior ties and each was cut by POs. I plan to pull in the bottom triangle or jack the ridge to attach the 18 foot rafter to stabilize the roof.
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Why would you need a load extender for a five foot overhang? The rear of the 2x4s will be sitting on top of the closed tailgate and don’t need any more support than that. Just put a flag on the part hanging behind the truck. How far are you going?
 
Before you jack up the ridge beam make sure that roof joists are well attached to it and also to the wall plates. Otherwise you may just pull the joists away from their attachment points. You could also make use of a few heavy duty long ratchet straps to pull the side walls together until they are no longer bowed out and at the same time lift the ridge up.
 
Before you jack up the ridge beam make sure that roof joists are well attached to it and also to the wall plates. Otherwise you may just pull the joists away from their attachment points. You could also make use of a few heavy duty long ratchet straps to pull the side walls together until they are no longer bowed out and at the same time lift the ridge up.
Good advice, as I intend to use long ratchet straps on each pair of roof joists and tighten those first. I will see if that gives less sag to the ridge. If ridge straightening is minimal I will use the floor jack alternating with the ratchets. I also notice each wall is already plumb so I will check and level as I go.
 
Got the 18 foot rafters today as pictured. Not a scratch at the rear window as the sticks rest on the raised rear seats instead of the window frame. I happened to have empty USPS priority mail boxes that served as a perfect "tunnel" to slide each beam through. Beams could touch the sunroof frame but I left about a 2 inch gap there that stayed constant when stopping. Load was steady at 80 mph on the interstate.
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