I have the exact problem and the dealership still can't figure it out. They changed the window channels and regulators without success. Any luck for you?

 

Mine was making these exact same noises and it took about 5 months before it started. Mine turned out to be the door itself though. They adjusted it so it closes tighter and no more noise from the top corner over bumps or high speed cross winds.
Stick your hand up in the door gap as your going down the road in the top corner and see if you can feel the door moving.

 

So I've had multiple rattles in my Ridgeline Touring (Canadian Model) since I bought it in November 2016. One of the ones I haven't been able to resolve is the one in the driver's side window. Long story short, I've noticed that when I drive over a bump or a sewer grade, I can hear a knock/scrunching sound at the top rear of my driver's side window. I brought it to Honda about 5 times for this problem and they can't figure it out. One of the technicians thought it was the airbag moving around in the top part of the door so they replaced it. That did nothing.

The next time I brought it in, they just decided to change the regulators and the window channels. It still did nothing. I've also brought it back to the place I had the front windows tinted and they added some silicone, which also did nothing. It does not do this when the window is down which is why I'm fairly certain it's window related. I heard there was a TSB for the new Pilots in Canada regarding its windows but not for the Ridgelines. Any thoughts? Advice? I've since complained to Honda Canada with no response...

Thanks,

Mark

 

So I've had multiple rattles in my Ridgeline Touring (Canadian Model) since I bought it in November 2016. One of the ones I haven't been able to resolve is the one in the driver's side window. Long story short, I've noticed that when I drive over a bump or a sewer grade, I can hear a knock/scrunching sound at the top rear of my driver's side window. I brought it to Honda about 5 times for this problem and they can't figure it out. One of the technicians thought it was the airbag moving around in the top part of the door so they replaced it. That did nothing.



The next time I brought it in, they just decided to change the regulators and the window channels. It still did nothing. I've also brought it back to the place I had the front windows tinted and they added some silicone, which also did nothing. It does not do this when the window is down which is why I'm fairly certain it's window related. I heard there was a TSB for the new Pilots in Canada regarding its windows but not for the Ridgelines. Any thoughts? Advice? I've since complained to Honda Canada with no response...



Thanks,



Mark

You ever get this sorted out? I’m having the same issue in my touring. Really loving the functionality of this vehicle but the rattles are infuriating. Thought I’d be keeping it for a long while but once a refresh comes along or another midsize alternative might be looking elsewhere.


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Any luck on a fix? I still have this problem.

 

Yes, the dealer adjusted the door. It closes tighter now and no more rattle at the top.

 

For sure. Will get something to you by tomorrow.

 

Can’t seem to get the photo to rotate the proper way on the iPad but it still shows what I am talking about. It’s that plastic cover on the upper left of the window. I pulled the inner seal back and just sprayed away. You can actually see a little corner of some weather stripping I put in behind the seal. Not sure if it helped.

 

Has anyone found a successful repair for this issue? My driver side window makes so much noise while driving when the window is down about 2-6 inches. It’s a very loud tapping popping sound.

 

SOLUTION:

I had the exact same scrunching/chattering/rattling problem on my new 2018 BE that's only 6 weeks old. I tried a bunch of different homemade fixes but finally got fed up and brought it to the dealer.

During the first (unsuccessful) attempt they replaced the window channel. The theory was the window wasn't seated properly so a new channel would hold it more securely.

A few days later I picked up the car drove it around the corner, and right back to the service area. It wasn't fixed - still scrunching? Really frustrating because I was so explicit in my description. I even left type-written instructions in the truck with pix, color coded arrows, etc. This forum made me realize this was going to be a tough one so I was trying to be as detailed as possible.

After a little complaining (truck only has 700 miles on it!) the "sound" tech came out for a diagnostic drive with me. In the beginning he played dumb but eventually he heard it - probably because I was so adamant about pointing it

Luckily, the tech was good, took me seriously and had me schedule a second appointment. I picked up the car yesterday and the rattle/scrunching sound is gone!!!! I'm so happy!!!

The invoice said they replaced the "driver door cap and sash garnish". Basically they replaced the rubber seal and the triangular plastic cap towards the lower front corner of the window.

For everyone's reference here are the part #s:

72315-TG7-A01 SEAL
72496-TG7-A01 GARNISH

Hope this helps.
Good luck!!!

 

And your window doesn’t rattle now?

 

Yes, it is fixed. Had it out again today and no noises. Everything is solid now.

 

So the cap is on the interior and opposite from the side where the noise is coming from? And the seal is the one that is clipped in around the entire outline of the door?

Thank you for the post.

Matt

 

I was told they replaced the interior cap towards the bottom front of the window. There is also one in the top/back corner (where the sounds was coming from). They replaced the top cap when they installed the new channel during the first repair (which didn't fix the problem).

As for the seal, I was under the impression it was the rubber strip that runs along the top of the window frame (it may go all the way around?) - where the sound was coming from. The window slots into the channel and there is a rubber seal between the window and the interior of the car. In fact, when I used to push on the defective seal I could hear it creak/scrunch.

That's why I included the exact Honda part numbers and part names from the invoice - what the Service Adviser told me could be totally different to what the Tech fixed.

72315-TG7-A01 SEAL
72496-TG7-A01 GARNISH

 

I'm going to mention this to the dealership next time I go. The tech I dealt with told me he checks the forums so hopefully it works. In the meantime, I have put Shin-Etsu grease inside the rubber seals where they touch the metal frame as I can reproduce the scrunching sound when pressing the seals around the driver's side door. Anyone know if this is bad for the seals? I know this grease was intended as a protector of seals from UV rays however, I've been told it was only to be used on rubber. I guess the new seals are no longer made out of rubber but a compound of several other materials. I hope this works and does not just further my problem...

 

2018 BE with 600 miles on it. Just started hearing the noise from the top rear area of the window when I go over bumps. I put light pressure on the window (pressing out) and the noise stopped, so it has to be to loose within the window seal at the top. Doesn't happen when the window is down at all. Will be taking it to the dealer soon.

 

Please let me know what they say. I'm bringing mine in in mid Jan for servicing and want to show them the different solutions posted on this forum. Thanks.

 

I had the same sound at top of drivers window. It was easy to find by pressing in on top chrome strip of door from the outside. I adjusted the strike plate in just a fuzz. I could move it way in but it would recenter back out as I tightened the screws. It reduced the noise when pressing from outside in half and I haven't heard it inside in days. I pushed on the outside of passenger door and it doesn't move or have any noise. Just seems to be an alignment issue with the driver door.

 

How did you adjust the strike plate? Easy job?

 

I am having similar issues. My drivers window started making screeching noises every time I lowered it or pulled it all the way back up. So it seemed to be catching something on the way down and hitting it on the way up. (Top left corner if you were facing the driver window from the inside). Service mech said he lubed it, whatever that means. Well that sound did stop but then I noticed when the window was lowered partially that any bump in the road caused it to rattle. I can physically grab the window and move it left and right. No other window does this. Its loose. Im going back to the dealer again. I don't play around with cars. In my country/state they have three times to fix it or I call lemon. I won a lemon law against a Mopar twice. Once with an attorney on a new 2012 charger that kept grinding off the front right wheel bearing, and a second without a lawyer on a 2016 Jeep Wrangler unlimited that leaked through the roof every time it rained. If you have been to the dealer 5 times I would explore this route. The argument is simple. You didn't buy a new vehicle to be at the repair shop with it constantly. You have lost confidence and are scared you bought yourself a constant repair bill after warranty expires. In my cases I was given $9,000 on the charger and the lawyer kept 3k. I used the 6k and traded for a 13 accord that my wife still drives. The jeep was bought back by the OEM. So basically the way the Federal Lemon Law goes they have three attempts to fix the same issue and they either owe you money, another vehicle, or to buy back yours at no loss to you.

 

Let us know how this fix works for you. Thinking about taking mine in for this once my rear diff fluid change is due...

Thanks,
Matt

 

Parts are on order and will be taking into dealership next week. I will keep you all posted.

Cheers,
-Pat

 

Same issue here. Actually on both driver and passenger front windows. Will be taking into the dealer for the oil change and have them check it out. This is repaired under warranty I believe?

 

Yes, it's covered. In a previous post, I listed the part numbers they used when they corrected the issue in mine. (Drivers' side only...didn't have the issue on the passenger side).

 

Very frustrating issue for sure. The one thing I’ve find to reduce the sound is to apply inward ( towards the cabin) pressure to the corner plastic piece top rear of the window opening. Still more wind noise from the window than I would like. It’s difficult to tell whether it’s what did anything or whether the whole truck is just froze solid (been -30C regularly here last few weeks)


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So I noticed today while I was getting gas that the drivers side window has a considerable amount of lateral movement. I tested with the window fully up, halfway down, and about two inches from being fully down and in all cases, I could “slide” the window up, down, and side-to-side about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Moreover, I also encountered some in-and-out play; it’s almost like the run channels are too wide and too far apart. I compared against all other windows and none had near the play the drivers side had. Also, I could replicate the sound I get when I hit bumps by pulling the window back toward the rear and just letting go. I tested a theory by going down a bumpy road, putting the window halfway down, and pulling from the front toward the rear, and guess what? No sound. I think the window is moving within the run channels over even the tiniest bumps and making the scrunching sound against the material. Looks like another trip to the dealer.

 

What you're describing is exactly what most of us are dealing with as well. I've already had all the run channels replaced and it fixed the issue for a short time (a few weeks). It's now back with a vengeance and rattles over even the smallest bumps. It's definitely more pronounced when I'm moving at slower speeds though.

I've found that even pressing on the glass at the top rear doesn't help as much any more. I've tried wedging some thin items in between the glass and seal, but it doesn't seem to work anymore. I definitely agree that the run channels are the issue; perhaps too wide or not thick enough to put adequate pressure on the glass to prevent it from bouncing around. Another trip to the dealer is in the cards for me as well. Let us know if you receive any effective solution.

 

Keep us posted you two! Since I loosened up and banged the striker plate inward a bit I only get the sound regularly when it is under 35 F outside, but am hopeful someone on here will find a solution.

 

At the dealer now. Have the same tech as last time. He noticed the sound right away and then asked about my window tint. Said it might be that the tint is preventing a solid seal. I reminded him the first time I had the truck in for the sound, I didn’t have tint and that the tint is only a couple weeks old and the noise has been occurring longer than that.
We took a new Ridgeline off the lot for a drive and it was quiet as a tomb. They’ve pulled it into the service area now. I’ll let you know what happens.

Updated @ 11:00. The service tech installed some kind of foam mesh between the run channel and the window frame. Also said they did some "adjustments to the run channel". Not sure exactly what they did but the sound has subsided somewhat. I went on a road near my work that commonly caused my blood pressure to skyrocket because of the rattles and it was nothing like previous times. Quite a bit more subdued. That being said, it's not completely gone and at this point, I don't know what else they'll do. They did say they noticed some noise coming from my window regulator and they're going to replace that as well when the part comes in next week.

I'm curious if there is someway of putting a rubbery/flexible material (think flex seal or something) in the run channel that would put a little outward pressure on the window as it slides into the run channel at the top? I could add additional layers incrementally until it gets thick enough to force the glass outward a bit. It's flexible, waterproof and the same color as the trim. The noise previously went away when I put slight pressure on the window...perhaps that's something I can tinker with.

 

Update for me. I brought my truck to the dealership yesterday and went for a road test with the shop foreman. He immediately noticed that the sound was coming from the rear windows and didn't believe they were from the front. This would make sense as I had already changed both front run channels and regulators. He told me he would change the rear ones once the parts were ordered. I can see how I would mix up the upper corner near the B pillar and the rear window. They're almost in the same spot. There's a current TSB for the new Pilot with exactly this problem and all of the run channels were to be replaced according to Honda.

Hopefully this is the solution I've been waiting for... I'll keep you guys posted. But for those who already changed the front ones, consider the rear ones too.

 

The mesh or foam they used for my recent visit seems to have really helped. Areas of road I normally dreaded are now pretty much silent. They’re still replacing the regulator on Wednesday and I’ll mention the pilot tsb when I go in.

 

had same issue and got it solve at Lallier in Hull.

 

Could you elaborate a bit? What exactly did they do to fix the issue?

 

The striker is not adjustable on the G2 . I’ve been thru this already, screw your 2 rubber door stops in all the way they look like black gumdrops. These gumdrops are threaded,they will turn in and in return tightens your door seal. Honda sells a special lube for the door seals it also is for the door window channel to make the window glide up and down smoother.Honda # 08798-9013

 

I've seen your posts saying they're not adjustable, that's why I was curious as to what he did that enabled him to do it. I've already screwed in the little door stops, but there's still quite a bit of play in the door.

I know about the shin-etsu grease as well. I plan on getting some of that from Amazon in the near future.

 

You might have to take to the dealer unfortunately. Hoping it is still under warranty. Or contact a local body shop for advise

 

Funeman/Pattington/MarkB - any update on this? Did you get the regulator changed and did this help/solve the issue (along with the foam mesh) as well? Still having issues with the rattle? Did your dealer have any comment on the Pilot TSB either? If anyone out there has successfully resolved this please respond if you could.

Thanks,
-mb

 

I changed the window run charnels for the rear doors under warranty. It helped A LOT! I still hear the odd rattle coming from the same area but I'd say it's 90% fixed. Now my blower motor is making a really loud high pitch sound and my driver's window makes a weird clunking noise when going up. The joys of owning a Ridgeline.

#Neveragain

 

2019 driver side window rattling

After trading in my 17 for a 19 I was hoping for less issues. My 17 unfortunately had a lot, anyways the 19 has a lot of problems already fixed at the dealership the first week of ownership including a new seat cover that had adhesive from the factory on it, transmission was leaking and the steering wheel grinded while turning. Now the driver side front window is rattling and has wind noise. Has anyone had this problem before? What was done to fix it?

 

Re: 2019 driver side window rattling

After trading in my 17 for a 19 I was hoping for less issues. My 17 unfortunately had a lot, anyways the 19 has a lot of problems already fixed at the dealership the first week of ownership including a new seat cover that had adhesive from the factory on it, transmission was leaking and the steering wheel grinded while turning. Now the driver side front window is rattling and has wind noise. Has anyone had this problem before? What was done to fix it?

Sorry to hear that both have issues.

My driver side door was not put on right and caused rattling/drumming sound when on rough road. A local body shop fixed it. Check your door seams and panel alignment to see if it's the same issue I had.