I would think it shouldn’t be that big of a deal. They should be able to move the parameters around to get it to work. There’s a video on YouTube that has a ridgeline that’s lifted with Jsport 1.5 and .75 like yours and a Honda engineer talks about it like that’s fine. I would think if a Honda engineer is ok with a 1.5 lift and never mentions anything about “don’t lift your ridge or you’ll have such and such problems” you should be good.

 

What Honda engineer said a lift kit was okay on a production Ridgeline driven on public roads?

The owners manual states not to modify the suspension. The instructions for aiming the camera state not to modify the suspension.

 

We’re talking about a 1.5 inch lift here. Not some 4-5in like camping Randy has. It just seems like a lot of people on this site act like the ridgeline can not be modified at all or the truck is gonna go haywire. I know a lift will put some added stress on parts but let’s give the ridgeline some props, it can handle it.

 

We’re talking about a 1.5 inch lift here. Not some 4-5in like camping Randy has. It just seems like a lot of people on this site act like the ridgeline can not be modified at all or the truck is gonna go haywire.

Directly form Honda's service information:

"If the measured value exceeds +15.0 mm (0.591 in) or less than －35 mm (1.378 in), the multipurpose camera aiming will not work. Check for frame/suspension damage or modification."

Raise the vehicle by more than 0.591 inches and camera aiming will fail if Honda's instructions are followed.

 

No lift but I had my windshield replaced on my 19 by a 3rd party windshield replacement company, Honda would not do it. Since it needed calibrated post replacement, I had to go into their shop. Driveway replacement was not an option. They used a Honda screen and all calibration was done at their repair shop. No driving needed. Think about the time involved if you had to road test every vehicle that system went in to.

 

I am pretty sure I have seen RLs with dealer installed J-Sport lift kits...wonder if they will pass a calibration once the windshield needs replacement. I did ask the guy if he could just skip messing with the ADAS at first, but he said the insurance companies require it...grrr.

Is that 0.591" just raising the front relative to the rear, the overall truck height, or what exactly? Maybe I should drop the front tire pressure to 10 psi and have him try it again...haha

 

It's also interesting that because of the calibration failure my cruise control won't work, emergency braking, and of course the lane change alert and self steering. I personally can live without the camera based features...the truck self drives like a drunk anyway. But it pisses me off that the radar based systems are also tied into this.

 

I am pretty sure I have seen RLs with dealer installed J-Sport lift kits...

Some Honda dealers do install Jsport lift kits. Also, Honda uses Jsport lift kits for show and competition vehicles. The owner of Jsport (Jeff Proctor) drives for Honda.

However, Honda does not sell Jsport products or approve of their use on customer vehicles.

More info here:

https://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/threads/does-a-jsport-leveling-kit-void-my-warranty.219791/post-3083435

...wonder if they will pass a calibration once the windshield needs replacement.

Not if Honda's instructions are followed.

Is that 0.591" just raising the front relative to the rear, the overall truck height, or what exactly?

See this post:

https://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/threads/honda-sensing-issues-with-lift-kit-or-bigger-tires.219334/post-3134571

Maybe I should drop the front tire pressure to 10 psi and have him try it again...haha

Tire pressure must be correct.

See this post:

https://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/threads/windshield-calibration-question.232614/post-3257974

 

Jeezzz...you know how to make a guy feel good about his situation When the windshield guy and I were talking about the failure he mentioned there were a bunch of measurements to do for the static test...I will have to ask him about the H1/H2/H3 values and what he entered. But he has done that test at least 2 times and it had no problem passing, which makes the dynamic failure all the more confusing. He is putting in OEM Honda glass Monday morning as we know that if I have to go to Honda for calibration they would never touch it with aftermarket glass. And then there is the question of Honda even touching it with the lift...we shall see, assuming it gets that far.

 

Jeezzz...you know how to make a guy feel good about his situation

I just state the facts. My content is not monetized and I have no plans to run for POTUS, so I'm not trying to win a popularity contest.

 

Had the windshield replaced again with an OEM Honda unit and the camera still refuses to bass the dynamic driving calibration. Talked to the tech about the H1/2/3 values and he said that it was out of spec so he picked the largest offset and raised the target for the static test....which still passes every time. I really don't understand what the dynamic test is looking for and how raising the truck a little bit would not allow it to pass. I wish I had said something before he replaced it the first time and never attempted to recalibrate it. Time to go to Honda and see what they say....

And if anyone has the service manual pages on this test, and is willing to share it, I would appreciate it. Curious as to what it involves.

 

And if anyone has the service manual pages on this test, and is willing to share it, I would appreciate it. Curious as to what it involves.

Here you go.

 

When I was leaving the dealership after buying my 2024 RTL the salesman introduced me to some manager, not sure of what, but she told me that they could install a lift that would not void the warranty and that her Ridgeline was in the employee lot and had the lift. I drove by it and it looked pretty good.

Maybe I'll go see what they have and how it doesn't affect the warranty and report back here.

 

A lift kit and/or its installation, by law, will not void a warranty. However, any damage that results from the lift kit and/or its installation is not covered by the New Vehicle Limited Warranty.

 

@zroger73

Please comment on this.......

Is this an accurate understanding of the "lifted" and/or camera situation?

A vehicle has an original windshield and camera that were calibrated and all is well.

Then the truck is lifted.

The truck does not flag any errors because it is still on the original calibration and does not really know that the height has been changed......it may not really be functioning at 100 percent.....but the thing is still seeing the road and just may be less able to interpret what it sees.....and the owner of the truck has no idea the performance is diminished....

NEXT- that same lifted truck has a windshield replaced and a calibration is attempted and it fails........and as long as the lift (greater than the max allowed) exists, the dynamic calibration will pretty much fail all the time.

In other words....there are a lot of lifted trucks out there on the original windshield and calibration, that are functioning at less than 100 percent, and the owners have no idea.

 

^ This appears to be a correct understanding.

 

As the owner of said lifted vehicle I can't tell any difference in the ADAS performance before or after the lift. The self driving performance is still just as bad as it was before the lift. The pre-collision alert still worked, it still false alarms going around gentle right hand turns, and the radar cruse still worked. Is it performing at less than 100%? I have no idea...if it had worked perfectly before I might have been able to tell a difference.

 

The most significant risk is in that one instance where a few feet of activation distance can make the difference between a simple change of underwear and a big insurance claim, ticket, injury, or fatality.

Like most vehicles, the Ridgeline has only a single camera, so it has terrible depth perception. In order to calculate distance from an object, it has to first identify what that object is (e.g., automobile or pedestrian or cyclist) and what size it should be then consider how quickly that object is increasing in size based on the number of pixels it occupies and how the rest of the image changes in relation to the object. Part of this equation is a known and accurate height of the camera from the driving surface. If the camera is at a different height, it cannot accurately calculate distance. The software can compensate within a limited range, but once you exceed this range it is no longer accurate, which is why the aiming procedures fails. If you cheat by raising static aiming targets, for example, the vehicle's distance calculations will be less accurate.

Let's say the vehicle sees a pedestrian in the road that it thinks is 100 feet away. Based on the current vehicle speed and known stopping distance of the vehicle in its stock configuration, it can calculate when and how hard to apply the brakes. If you've ever experienced or seen automatic emergency braking, you'd know that it often stops just feet and sometimes inches away from the target. If the vehicle thinks the pedestrian is 100 feet away based on a calculation, but they are actually 90 feet away, the vehicle might not brake in time to avoid a collision. Because geometry, an inch of camera height can result in a difference of several feet at those distances.

 

"Carry out the dynamic camera aiming procedure on a flat and straight road that has several lanes that will allow the vehicle to be driven at speeds between 45－70 mph (72－112 km/h) for 10 minutes or more."

This seems ridiculous...I was wondering why he had put so many miles on the truck. What a PITA...

 

A new Tesla requires about 25 miles of driving while the cameras calibrate themselves. Until that process completes, there is no self-driving, lane keeping assistance, or even cruise control.

 

Yes - the radar measures distance only from metallic objects like automobiles. The camera uses shape, color, and position to identify and classify objects such as lane markings, automobiles, headlights, taillights, street lights, and pedestrians. The two sensors work together.

Trees, cardboard boxes, hogs, and plastic trash bins are neither metallic nor in the shape of automobiles or humans. The system is not programmed to recognize those objects and will drive right into them at full speed.

 

I saw a YouTube video where the guy stacked up a bunch of boxes and was trying to demonstrate the emergency braking//full stop of a car's safety system and went right though them at full speed like an old Starsky & Hutch episode.
He failed to account for the need of the object to be metallic.
No car dents...just a few scuffs on the paint!

 

Just spent 4 hours removing the front lift in preparation for trying to have Honda do the calibration. Man that lower ball joint is tight... My measurements look to be right at the max of the allowed variance, so no excuses now. I left the .75" rear lift on and have the front sway bar disconnected as I had thrown away the old links. She wallows around turns a bit now

 

Annnnnddd it's over. Honda was able to get it calibrated for $335, 75 minutes of time, and 5.4 miles of driving. Tried out all the systems on my way to work and they still suck. Not looking forward to taking everything apart again to put the lift back on, but it is what it is. Lesson learned...

 

Thanks for posting your details. Your updates may help others in the future.

 

That sucks you had to do all that. I got lucky I found a place that was able to get mine done with a 2" traxda lift. Long story short, I had a crack and got my front windshield replaced through insurance with Safelite Autoglass who installed non-oem glass and was unable to get calibration done. I took it to a difference shop and they couldn't get it done, stating that it was likely due to the non-oem glass. So I got Safelite to replace it with OEM glass. Took it back to the shop to get it calibrated and they still had trouble but they took it to another shop and somehow got it to calibrate. I'm in San Diego area so if any of you guys need a referral to the shop, just let me know. I paid them $450 for the calibration, and that was with multiple tries, and I think he would have gone lower if it had not been an insurance claim deal. Well worth it since I did not have to take my lift off.

 

That sucks you had to do all that. I got lucky I found a place that was able to get mine done with a 2" traxda lift.

I am not actually sure if I had to remove it or not, but I was not about to go to Honda just to have it fail again....so I tried to put the odds in my favor. The glass repair place was using an Autel scan tool that just kept saying the test failed without any code or reason why. I found it interesting that Honda only put 5.4 miles on the truck. It seems that driving 10+ minutes at 45-75 is not required when it wants to work.

 

I took my '22 in for windshield replacement this morning. They sent me a text yesterday about calibrating the sensors, with these instructions:

1. Full gas tank
2. No extra weight in the vehicle
3. No suspension modifications

So I emptied the bed, took all my tools out of the trunk, and filled it with gas. I don't have a lift, so hopefully it will go smoothly.

 

Done. They can't do the driving portion of the calibration in the rain, so they had to wait all day for the weather to clear, but other than that no issues. I've never seen such a clean windshield, can barely tell it's there. It does look different than the old one, but I can't say specifically how. It's made by Fuyao, who is a supplier of much of Honda's glass, but apparently not the OEM supplier for the Ridgeline windshield. It's most likely not the acoustic glass that I had before, but I have not had it out on the highway yet to see if there's a noticeable sound difference.