Good to know - I was looking at a Tahoe 22' deck boat but was afraid it would be way too heavy for the RL.

 

Not sure if the RL implies AWD or FWD.

I should probably preface I have an RTL-E

Im not sure show well it (or anything for that matter) would pull up a slippery ramp without AWD.

UD

 

I would respectfully disagree. Prior to my RL I owned a TITAN with the Big Tow Package. I would prefer to pull a trailer that is not at the maximum limit with a truck that has a higher rated towing capacity. Add in fuel, accessories, people, you can quickly become over the gross vehicle weight.

 

Lively and respectful disagreement is whats cool about forums. I understand your position and in this case disagree with it.

You happened to pick the one other truck I currently own - and have done back to back comparisons with on the same boat.

My other truck is an 04 titan 4x4 big tow - I still have it and use it often. Ive posted pictures of it here next to my Ridgeline.

I'll take the Ridgeline over it every time for this boat - why even though Im flirting with overweight?

I believe the Ridgeline to be very conservatively rated.

Long distance towing reveals some clues to this being the case - one being that its towing mileage at max weight is significantly higher than 50% of standard driving mileage.

If one looks at a third party sources like the fast lane truck 100 mile mileage loop test it can be observed that almost all the tests with gasoline trucks end up with the towing truck getting approx 50% of the mileage unlade in the same loop.


UD

 

This thread is very interesting to me. I hope this doesn't constitute hijacking a thread... Friday (6/22) morning I'll be towing a new travel trailer that specs out at 2,690lbs on the hottest day of the year from Phoenix (112° and 1,100' altitude) to our home in Flagstaff (90° and 7,000'). I've only towed a 1,100lb teardrop in the past. It had no problems with that at all in any way. There are a lot of daunting hauls around this country but this can't be shrugged off lightly. (no pun intended) My guess is that our '17 RTL-T will never have to work this hard again. I have a question to those more experienced...

Should I just ride the tach at 4K and let the speed falls where it will or let this thing spin up to whatever ridiculous numbers it sees fit? My guess is that the tach will be quite elevated for hours. Heat and thin air. Not good. I do hope to leave hellish Phoenix as early in the day as possible. Is my anxiety about this justified?

 

Let-er spin if she wants to- in 4th gear at just under 4K you'll be at around 70 MPH so just let it rip.

I spun it for at least an hour if not more at that speed in the similar temps on the way to Havasu last weekend and back through some large hills.

between lugging it and revving it always chose the RPM - if you sense it lugging click the d4 switch - I found it downshifted quite well, but I was always on the switch in case I felt it dragging down.

A bit faster RPM in an NA vehicle towing is always good thing - the water pump is turning faster as is the trans pump and there is no time for detonation to take place.

You anxiety is sign of being aware of the task , but I believe you'll find the Ridge will handle it easily.

UD

 

I spent hours climbing to and back the lake through the desert right in this zone last week with 5000 on the hitch in 100+ temps.

As a % of RPM availability this is a large RPM to have available under high way speed towing area compared to lots of cam in block designs

The ridge is making real good power and torque here for a 5K load and seems to step rightist Vtec when more is called for.

Its incredibly well balanced and smooth- (better than almost anything Ive owned but my ilmor 710 and Ive owned a lot of **** ) VQ30,vq35, VQ45, and sings like a sewing machine at this RPM.

Im adding my old 93 lightning to the list of trucks this is better than as even though it had more power and torque the 4 speed box never put it in the right place to actually be a decent tow-er so you were either bogging or screaming.



UD

 

I spent hours climbing to and back the lake through the desert right in this zone last week with 5000 on the hitch in 100+ temps.

As a % of RPM availability this is a large RPM to have available under high way speed towing area compared to lots of cam in block designs

The ridge is making real good power and torque here for a 5K load and seems to step rightist Vtec when more is called for.

Its incredibly well balanced and smooth- (better than almost anything Ive owned but my ilmor 710 and Ive owned a lot of **** ) VQ30,vq35, VQ45, and sings like a sewing machine at this RPM.

Im adding my old 93 lightning to the list of trucks this is better than as even though it had more power and torque the 4 speed box never put it in the right place to actually be a decent tow-er so you were either bogging or screaming.



UD

Notice the Redline is like 6700-6800 rpm, 4000 RPM is less than 60% of redline, 5000 is less than 75% of redline, although I would keep it limited I’d have no problem running 6000 rpm as that’s still less than 90% of redline. As long as the water pump is turning and the transmission is in gear and turning it’s pump I’d be completely shocked it you overheated. Granted it’s hot, but you’ll make it. Now if you end up stopping (say for a gas stop) The restart after sitting for only 10-15 minutes is actually harder than moving coolant and air flowing, and you gain little by just idling, because the transmission is adding heat load negating any gains by moving the water pump.

 

I suppose I need a shrink as much as info! I'm mostly concerned about overheating. I guess I can always pick a speed that works for the truck but on those steep stretches of I-17 there is nowhere to go if things get overheated. If you can pull 5K without any dash warnings I should be able to manage a little more than half that.

Thanks for your response.

 

I'm not sure what Petroffski has in mind exactly, but I'm wondering if he is thinking that he HAS to have it in D4 the whole time? I might be wrong, but i don't believe that to be the case. Obviously, going up inclines, it will probably choose 4th gear. I think D4 is mainly if you're constantly going up and down hills and the transmission is doing too much shifting. I can't imagine your route is entirely up hill. I'd leave it in Drive and get some lower RPM time on the flat or downhill sections. With that said, it does sound like a difficult route. In my completely biased opinion......hondas love high rpm's..... ; )

 

I let the truck self select 95+% of the trip, but lugging is the worst thing you can do in any vehicle so in any serious uphill traffic situation I have my hand on the button as often times you are on and off the gas while in a long uphill no need to let it upshift to 6th if you have to back all the way out.

UD

 

Im all for using D4 as necessary. I just wanted to make sure Petroffski knew that he didn't have to keep it in D4 the entire time. He probably already knew that.

BTW, Davegvg, I really enjoy your insight on towing. I cant imagine a much better resource than you with the amount you tow, and all of the different trucks you have, or had. Thx.

 

Not sure how relevant it is here, but you might find this read interesting:

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/245541-post220.html

This is from the LPL (Large Project Leader) of the G1 Ridgeline, who was also the chief engineer and instigator of the Ridgeline.

 

If were to be as kind to the ridge as possible its more like 3750 at 70 so thats even closser to 55% of redline basically approaching half of the tach

And when we look at where the engine is in its power curve 3750 or 70 in 4th is that magical spot when you are just about the top of the torque curve and HP power curve meet - as soon as you stab it HP takes a hard curve up so when sitting here you are indeed in the sweet spot the gearbox and derrier tell you you are in.

with such little weight 2690 Id wager it will spend lots of time in high gears anyway.

the thing is a gem.


UD

 

...
Corona - Lake Havasu on the 10- back to Corona on the 40/15
The full loop mileage 13.8 on face is still impressive bested only by the tiny diesels.
This is about 2-3 MPG better than all the half tons can manage on the same loop.
...
Uncle Dave

So, just realized you were towing down the Cajon Pass, how are the brakes going down the first section of the Pass, sometimes you have to get on them quickly when people realize they are in the outside lane and don’t want to be close to the shoulder (EDGE) of the I-15.

Also do you have electric brakes or surge brakes on the trailer?

 

Surge brakes - absolutely no problem.

I had cruise set around 70 and dont remember the rig pushing me much if at all I run the right 2 lanes unless making a pass, it was still early Sunday morning when I hit it (around 945AM ) so there wasn't much traffic.



UD

 

There is a price to pay for all the Ridgeline wonderfulness however.

Part of what makes it so silky greasy deliciously smooth at high RPM is that fact that its got a belt driven valve train.

The belt soaks up everything from primary-tertiary vibration from the valve train. The chain driven rigs cannot match this feel regardless of how well balanced because the transfer mechanism cant damp as much. They can be good and some are- the VQ'a are very good engines - but this particular characteristic is unmatchable with a chain.

The price I will pay is that at 60K it will cost me a grand to change it out - what Im doing is characterized as severe based on heat (belts #`1 enemy =heat) and the lower mile change out schedule prevails.



UD

 

...
The price I will pay is that at 60K it will cost me a grand to change it out - what Im doing is characterized as severe based on heat (belts #`1 enemy =heat) and the lower mile change out schedule prevails.



UD

You can probably defer changing out the accessories until 120k, so might only cost you $800. If you have a good in-house mechanic, they could probably change it out for you.

 

I imagine this question has been asked and answered but when towing a small pop up, let's say 2000 lbs, 3 people and some gear do I just leave the Ridgeline in "D" or should I use D4? Driving mainly flat highways.
On another note, when trying to park the pop up in a very ackward spot (lot's of backing up, pulling forward etc) was the engine fan ever kicking into high gear, thought I was maybe doing some harm? comments?

thanks,

 

Id just leave it in D under those circumstances.

Unless you got an overheat warning you weren't even close and even then it will reduce power to prevent damage so you are all good.

UD

 

I towed my travel trailer twice. Just this past week we went camping at Lake George NY and got a mpg of 11.8. for a total of 625 miles round trip. Trailer empty weight supposedly 3200lbs. Is it because the boat is more aerodynamic than the TT that dropped my MPG? Was doing 65mph the whole way.

 

The difference is probably 2fold---

The boat is definitely more aerodynamic than a TT - by a lot.

"Empty weight" is usually way off from realized weight as used.

Empty weight* is one of those tricky #'s that includes "options*"

...and of course - food water, ice, propane etc.....bed sheets, TP, soap. silverware - all that stuff weighs more than most people think.


UD

 

"Empty" (UVW) of our travel trailer - per the yellow sticker applied at the factory - is 3,853lbs. But when we are loaded up for a typical camping trip our CAT Scale weight comes in at 4,600-4,700lbs. We do not carry any fresh water to speak of, and at over 8lbs per gallon you can see why.

The weight is absolutely a factor but wind resistance even more so when towing a full profile travel trailer. And our peak torque of 262lb/ft is produced only at high rpms, hence one reason why the tranny on our Ridgelines will want to downshift to reach those higher rpms under loads like wind resistance, grades, etc. The manual counsels using D4 when in hilly terrain (sorry don't have it in front of me to quote the exact verbiage) to avoid excessive shifting and its consequential heat buildup. In our recent ~3,000+ mile towing round trip to eastern Ohio the truck natively handled the grades we encountered without me ever having to use D4 (Missouri's Ozark Mountains being the stiffest test). Fortunately over our years of towing higher loads like ours we have found both the G1 & G2 tranny to be stout and reliable. Just mind your fluid changes and the manual's advice on the degree of heavy duty useage.

It's a whole different and much easier story when towing our ~3,800lb (when fully loaded up and fueled for a fishing trip on the bay) Tahoe Q5i/SF. With comparatively much less wind resistance the tranny drops down to 5th occasionally. But the vast majority of my fishing trips are flat, coastal plain type runs, so there is that.

 

..........In our recent ~3,000+ mile towing round trip to eastern Ohio the truck natively handled the grades we encountered without me ever having to use D4 (Missouri's Ozark Mountains being the stiffest test). Fortunately over our years of towing higher loads like ours we have found both the G1 & G2 tranny to be stout and reliable. Just mind your fluid changes and the manual's advice on the degree of heavy duty useage.......

This is good information for a prospective buyer. It sounds like you are very pleased with purchasing the new Ridgeline. Proper maintenance is always important but especially when you are towing or using your vehicle for sever duty then it may need to be increased accordingly. Not to highjack the thread but what was your RPMs on relatively flat and what would it be climbing moderate grades that would be encountered. Also what speed do you tow when on the interstate. Finally how do you like your Freedom Express, we just bought an '18 FE 246 RKS model.

Find a local scale and get an actual loaded weight, otherwise your just guessing.

100% agreed on getting the set up weighed.


Gord

 

Thanks for the replies. I haven't checked the tire pressure because I need a gauge that reads 85psi. I will also look into the speed as well. This is our second time with the trailer.

We purchased the G2 sole purpose was to pull a TT that we didn't have yet. I haven't put it on a scale either. Thats something I want to do but dont know where and dont have time. Truck stops? It's a good because I can see if Im close to the max. On our first trip, 3kids, 3 adults, loaded with 3 bikes in the bed, cooler full of food, bottle water, full tank of gas, fire wood, and table. I mean it was loaded. I felt the back of the truck was floating alittle when the TT hit a bump. Like it took an extra bounce to settle. I have a WDH, with out that the rear would be squatting.

2nd trip, it felt alot lighter, I took out 1 adult, fire wood, table, and food.

3rd would be even lighter without the bikes. But will have to carry freshwater though.

I feel like the payload in the truck plays a huge difference when towing, maybe not huge but it feels better with less weight in the truck. Should I put everything in the TT when I'm towing?

The G2 does a great job at towing it. We haven't put fresh water in it yet for long trips but will soon for our FL Disney trip. That's going to be challenge.

 

Glad to help as we are able. The driving characteristics you've described seem to indicate that you are at the threshold or perhaps over your payload rating, your GAWR (Rear) rating and maybe your tongue weight limit. The only way to figure this out is to load up the truck (with a full tank of gas) and your trailer in a camping configuration and weigh the entire rig with all passengers on board.

Over the years both the G1 & G2 Ridgelines were often described as being "underrated & overengineered." As one of probably many who tow in the upper regions of the truck's specifications, I think I can generally attest to that. Our entire rig behaves normally as a solid and stable towing arrangement. (We did work very hard at staying within those limits initially when shopping for our trailer and even now every time we load up for a trip.) Nevertheless those specs are probably a marriage of an abundance of caution in engineering and a buffer for legal liability. The baseline concern is always having a sufficient margin of ability to maneuver in a dangerous situation.

The driving characteristics you've experienced would not give me a feeling of comfort or ultimate controllability. We do not experience anything like that as you've described. And we do not use a WDH, but we do use a single friction sway bar. I also get a tongue weight just before we hit the road (our sweet spot has historically been 480-520 lbs). With all of that said we push the rear axle weight rating nearly to the limit. That is a pretty important number to mind.

The overall challenge with the Ridgeline when towing these kinds of weights is the ballet, so to speak, of managing its limits.

You certainly can rearrange some of your load to remove some of the burden on the truck. That will affect your tongue weight to some degree and you will not know how much until you actually move those items around . . . and then re-weigh. I know this sounds tedious, but it is the only way to gain confidence that you can tow safely. Once you do, I think you will find a great deal of peace of mind for your family's safety.

 

Most truck stops have a scale or you can look up and find the nearest cat scale

https://catscale.com

With smaller rigs like this I prefer putting some weight in the truck if I can vs taking it all on the hitch.

I'll put 2 30 gallon barrels in the bed snuggled up to the cab vs 30 in the TT as long as I'm in spec.

Ill roll them to the rear of the bed and use a siphon to fill the TT.

60 will get you a bunch of showers, flushes and washing with a 1.5 GPM showerhead.

You can also tow dry this way and go fill them up on a solo run.

UD