[speedlever]

The '06 is from NY, and surprisingly it doesn't have any rust issues except for some minor surface rust in the door sills. I'll swap the radiator as soon as I get a chance, thinking that'll happen after I drive it 1k miles back home. Fingers crossed.

My personal preference is the 2 nut design for a radiator. Regarding external vs internal corrosion, I don't think that question was ever satisfactorily answered (dis-similar metal corrosion). So just because it looks ok from the outside may not tell the whole story.

I don't know about the number of tubes vs original. I've had no issues with the aftermarket radiator in my 2008 RTS.

With only 80k on the truck, I kinda doubt the TB service has been done. So you may wish to address that sooner rather than later. At the same time you should plan on the water pump, cam seals, spark plugs, serpentine belt and tensioner, and a valve adjustment. Of course with the new radiator and thermostat, you'll have new coolant. Might want to replace the hoses too.

 

[RustyBolts]

With only 80k on the truck, I kinda doubt the TB service has been done. So you may wish to address that sooner rather than later. At the same time you should plan on the water pump, cam seals, spark plugs, serpentine belt and tensioner, and a valve adjustment. Of course with the new radiator and thermostat, you'll have new coolant. Might want to replace the hoses too.

Timing belt and water pump have both been done, not sure about the rest.. I'll have to ask. TB = throttle body? Didn't know of the bulletin, I need to do more research. My car was totaled last week, so I'm doing as much research as fast as I can to replace the SUV.

 

[speedlever]

Timing belt and water pump have both been done, not sure about the rest.. I'll have to ask. TB = throttle body? Didn't know of the bulletin, I need to do more research. My car was totaled last week, so I'm doing as much research as fast as I can to replace the SUV.

TB - timing belt

 

[Pingeye2]

Here's pics of my '06 with 214,000 km for comparison. Although I have no crystal ball I believe mine were very close to costing me a transmission. I went with the Spectra because of the brass fittings and immediate availability. 2 hours and $375 plus tax. Next day I changed my trans fluid. Nova Scotia and Mass share similar corrosion factors.

The way I looked at it was $375 vs $4,000.....

Just curious why you needed to change tranny fluid next day (After rad swap)? Was it just overdue for a change? All I did after my radiator swap was top off tranny fluid for small amount lost when moving Tranny lines from old rad to new rad.

 

[tomc_mets]

Is the dreaded radiator connection fitting I am looking for the one near top center, red arrow, to the left of what I think is the plastic petcock valve for draining the radiator? Thank you. Am trying to get a better pic with my borescope.

 

[smufguy]

Is the dreaded radiator connection fitting I am looking for the one near top center, red arrow, to the left of what I think is the plastic petcock valve for draining the radiator? Thank you. Am trying to get a better pic with my borescope.

That is the fitting and there is another on the other side.


BTW, why does the lower part of your engine bay look so clean? It is too clean IMO - nothing is wrong with too clean, just jealous.

 

[tomc_mets]

That is the fitting and there is another on the other side.


BTW, why does the lower part of your engine bay look so clean? It is too clean IMO - nothing is wrong with too clean, just jealous.

Thanks. This RL lived in West Texas most of its entire life. Dry climate. Mild winters. Salting roads is very rare. Observing the exterior wear and tear on the Ridgeline also leads me to believe/hope it was garaged.

Thanks. I'll try and get better pics.

 

[lerv]

Just picked up a 2013, did not see this post before.

Do you think I've got some time left on this rad?

 

[smufguy]

Though it looks nice and tidy, but given the age and not knowing the mileage, it is not that bad to replace the radiator. Also changing the hoses and thermostat along with it, is an added bonus.

 

[jakeman]

Do you think I've got some time left on this rad?
[/QUOTE]

That's the million dollar question. You're pic looks just like the connections on my '09' RL when I changed the radiator out. There was no sign of bad corrosion or imminent failure when I disconnected the lines. I went ahead and changed it out anyway, since I had a new radiator and went this far already. It's been about 4 years now and the new radiator has been working fine.

I think I fell victim to the publicity here about the SMOD failures, great info for pre-'09' RL's, well documented to be prone to these failures, but unanswered questions about possible changes to '09's and later years. I don't recall hearing about any SMOD issues with '09' - '14' model years.

What it boiled down, to me, was having peace of mind at not that much work and cost - was doing my timing chain service and had the truck partially apart anyway.

 

[tomc_mets]

Have to say after getting the borescope out that I'm a little less cocksure about the dry Texas climate forestalling radiator corrosion issues. Was hard to get a good pic of the driver side one. Any thoughts?

'07 RL with 78K miles. I've run the table on fluids and filters since buying her a few months ago. So, I need to get radiator done ASAP.

 

[ISO Truck]

Still doesn’t look terrible, but the real concern is on the internal side.

Too bad you can’t run that scope down inside somehow.

 

[jakeman]

$150 for an aftermarket Denso replacement isn't too bad for peace of mind. There are others for as low as $99. Of course, It'll be more if you have to pay someone to install it.

I went with the Denso about 4 years ago and it's been fine.

 

[ShaunKris]

DRL, thanks for sharing. Yours look worse than mine, but I am not taking any chances on mine. I bought mine used with cash and plan on keeping it for many years (even as a 3rd vehicle later on for trash duty).

Maybe we can use this thread to compile everyone's pictures in 1 spot.

I have to do mine too, I will take pictures as well.

 

[fresnoridgeline]

Replaced my radiator on the 2006 with 165K miles. Wish I didn't based on the PRISTINE radiator fitting. Looks like new, even has a nice soft O-ring still.

 

[Sparkland]

Replaced my radiator on the 2006 with 165K miles. Wish I didn't based on the PRISTINE radiator fitting. Looks like new, even has a nice soft O-ring still.


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That fitting does look a lot better than expected. I think you made the correct move by being proactive and replacing the radiator before it had a failure point other than the fitting.

 

[tomc_mets]

Replaced my radiator on the 2006 with 165K miles. Wish I didn't based on the PRISTINE radiator fitting. Looks like new, even has a nice soft O-ring still.


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Those look beautiful!

I'm inferring from your handle that you're in Fresno. So, relatively dry and mild climate? Has your Ridgeline been a California car all of its life?

 

[fresnoridgeline]

Those look beautiful!

I'm inferring from your handle that you're in Fresno. So, relatively dry and mild climate? Has your Ridgeline been a California car all of its life?

Yep, I purchased the car in Modesto with 17K miles after an elderly owner passed away. Moved her to beautiful Fresno where she has been garaged all her life. Definitely a dry climate for this Ridgeline. I watch some auto mechanic Youtubers from the Rust belt and the rusty vehicles are absolutely frightening sometimes.

Anyway, I would definitely be more upset if I paid someone to replace the radiator. I put a Denso unit in for $170 and was motivated since it was time to change the coolant per the MM. Not a overly difficult job overall and I enjoy the knowledge gained by undertaking these things myself. I did get a scare when my A/C wouldn't work a few weeks after the radiator change. The clutch on the A/C wouldn't engage. Turns out that I didn't seat the A/C clutch connector fully when I put the fans back in. Anyone that had done this job knows that connector is a bizzy because of it's location on the fan shroud. As I remember, disconnecting it was one of the more difficult parts of the job. Not sure why every connector seems to be different in the way they separate--plus some are even held together from the backside on the bracket on top of locking together like a normal connector. That seems like total overkill to me!

 

[fresnoridgeline]

That fitting does look a lot better than expected. I think you made the correct move by being proactive and replacing the radiator before it had a failure point other than the fitting.

Probably so. You maybe able to see it in the picture, but the upper hose inlet crumbled when I applied pliers in an attempt to wiggle the hose off. That made me feel better about replacing the radiator no matter what the radiator fitting looked like.