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Who makes your oil filter?

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#41 ·
Man You guys know how to head down the “Rabbit Hole”

Glad you are having fun ;)
 
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Discussion starter · #42 ·
hijacked :crying: seems like no one has figured out where honda is hiding the oil pressure pid, neither.
 
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#44 · (Edited)
Carsmak said:
Man You guys know how to head down the “Rabbit Hole”

Glad you are having fun ;)
Click to expand...

It's always interesting to me when people second guess the manufacturer's recommendations.

Sometimes I'll hear data-driven compelling reasons why- like if someone runs a UOA and acts according to the data - I'm always open to learning.

Most often there is little to no data behind these decisions - like supposing acid buildup is a reason to change a filter early.

On acid buildup - oils acidity is held in check by TBN or total base number which is the measure of an oils remaining alkalinity.

Only a UOA can tell you where you are in this spectrum.

Good for us that Hondas OLM is temperature based so it will call out an OCI based on short tripping and not being fully warmed.

Just change the oil and filter when it tells you to and you will have plenty of TBN headroom and filter capacity left and not have to worry.

For acid to rise to the point of condemnation TBN needs to be depleted and the TAN needs to come up.

Most oil analyzation companies include TBN as a part of their base checks.
You don't have to worry about acid until TBN is depleted which if you go by the OLM - it never will be.

Heres an example of a UOA run on my wife's diesel genset thats shows where TBN is after X hours which is a major factor in determining how much more life is left in the oil.


....but anyone can go ahead and do whatever they want - except try to " sell it to me" as anything other than one's personal preference.

If we were all sitting around a campfire this discussion would take under a minute but because it email it always takes forever and sounds hostile simply to maintain brevity in my head its all a bunch of guys just simply talking. We can disagree without being disagreeable.


UD
 

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#45 ·
I recommend a Full brand filter and Eneos fully synthetic 0w20. Full is an original equipment supplier to both Honda and Toyota. Factory part number is on the filter. Eneos is also an original equipment manufacturer.
Both items available through NAPA Auto Parts.
 

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Discussion starter · #46 · (Edited by Moderator)
Found this from 2005. Click link for detail review. Note images have been nuked due to server issues.

ORIGINALLY POSTED ON "ELEMENTOWNERSCLUB.COM" BY "MIKEQBF"

The subjects:

Honda 15400-PLM-A01, $4.88 from H&A Accessories
Honda 15400-PLM-A02, $5.95 from local dealer
Advance Auto "totalgrip" AA7317, $2.50
Purolator PureOne PL14610, $5 at Advance Auto
Fram Extra Guard PH7317, $5 at Advance Auto
Wix 51356, $6 at local parts supplier
Bosch Premium 3323, $7 at AutoZone
Mobil1 M1-110, $11 at AutoZone
Amsoil SDF13, $14 at local Parts-Plus franchise

Summary

Best: Honda 15400-PLM-A01, by a large margin. This is the "old" blue can.

Alternative: Wix 51356, but with more frequent changes.

Worst: A tie between Fram Extra Guard and Honda 15400-PLM-A02; Amsoil and Mobil1 get very bad marks for too-little filtering.

Surprise: Mobil1's and Amsoil's pathetic amount of actual filter.

Lunar Ridge said:
I recommend a Full brand filter and Eneos fully synthetic 0w20. Full is an original equipment supplier to both Honda and Toyota. Factory part number is on the filter. Eneos is also an original equipment manufacturer.
Both items available through NAPA Auto Parts.
Click to expand...
Lunar, why do you recommend Full brand filters? Has there been any reviews to tests done on Full filters?
 
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#48 ·
bigbluesd said:
Found this from 2005. Click link for detail review. Note images have been nuked due to server issues.

ORIGINALLY POSTED ON "ELEMENTOWNERSCLUB.COM" BY "MIKEQBF"

The subjects:

Honda 15400-PLM-A01, $4.88 from H&A Accessories
Honda 15400-PLM-A02, $5.95 from local dealer
Advance Auto "totalgrip" AA7317, $2.50
Purolator PureOne PL14610, $5 at Advance Auto
Fram Extra Guard PH7317, $5 at Advance Auto
Wix 51356, $6 at local parts supplier
Bosch Premium 3323, $7 at AutoZone
Mobil1 M1-110, $11 at AutoZone
Amsoil SDF13, $14 at local Parts-Plus franchise

Summary

Best: Honda 15400-PLM-A01, by a large margin. This is the "old" blue can.

Alternative: Wix 51356, but with more frequent changes.

Worst: A tie between Fram Extra Guard and Honda 15400-PLM-A02; Amsoil and Mobil1 get very bad marks for too-little filtering.

Surprise: Mobil1's and Amsoil's pathetic amount of actual filter.
Click to expand...
This is the most useless "test" I have ever seen. The posters statement in the first post of that thread says it all:

MikeQBF said:
Also, I have no means to "test" these filters for flow rates, pressure drops, overpressure capacity, time-to-bypass, media efficiency, anti-drainback leakage... or anything else that simulates operating conditions. We'll have to leave that to the pros with the multi-million-dollar test labs, should anybody outside of the industry ever bother to publish results. :-|
Click to expand...
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
@Lunar Ridge thanks.

@njamesj hey it's the best the guy can do, which is $50 more than what I've invested.

Honda recommendations only has to fit within their warranty period. Some of us would like to keep our trucks for a longer period of time. Note how warranties used to be 4-5yrs. Now they are 3 yrs...

I found something interesting digging into napa. Wix's parent company was bought out & Napa gold filters are now mad in mexico. I wonder if that's why there are multiple part numbers for the Napa gold 7356 filter - 47356 uses synthetic medium, 37356&27356 use cellulose, 7356 uses enhanced cellulose.

I found this in Bob's forum. Looks like I can use the larger s2000 oil filter.
 

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#56 ·
ROCers... just a friendly word from your mods.

Oil and filter discussions are welcome so long as you keep it civil. If name calling and other derogatory comments enter the conversation, they will be deleted and the thread will be closed. If the offense is egregious, there may also be member action as well. We can certainly give vacations of various lengths including permanent bans. Be advised.

Now feel free to continue the conversation with civil discourse.

'nuff said.
 
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#57 ·
DOB said:
Maintenance minder but new filter with every change.
Click to expand...
Got it - thanks.

So you perform the 2 tasks at OCI time and (will) use a a SuperTech filter rated to 10K - which matches the max time the MM will let the oil go.

1-1 never hurt any car that I can remember.

Is it necessary, or a waste of money and time?
How do we know? Who can we trust?


UD
 
#58 ·
Davegvg said:
Got it - thanks.

So you perform the 2 tasks at OCI time and (will) use a a SuperTech filter rated to 10K - which matches the max time the MM will let the oil go.

1-1 never hurt any car that I can remember.

Is it necessary, or a waste of money and time?
How do we know? Who can we trust?


UD
Click to expand...
Yes, being "old," my habit of changing the filter at every oil change will never die. My mileage hovers around 6,000 miles when my MM hits 15% so I am "safe" with the filter I use. I do not put a lot of miles on my vehicles so the oil/ filter gets changed at least once a year. My previous vehicle was 16 years old and had only a little over 59,000 miles :surprise:
 
#59 ·
DOB said:
Yes, being "old," my habit of changing the filter at every oil change will never die. My mileage hovers around 6,000 miles when my MM hits 15% so I am "safe" with the filter I use. I do not put a lot of miles on my vehicles so the oil/ filter gets changed at least once a year. My previous vehicle was 16 years old and had only a little over 59,000 miles :surprise:
Click to expand...
and I thought 13.5 years old and 102k miles was low... :surprise:
 
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#60 ·
Just my opinion, but I've never changed oil without also changing the filter. I acknowledge that in many instances, I am more conservative than the MM. I let my oil run until it hits 0% remaining and then often go a few hundred miles beyond until it's convenient to change (or 12 months, whichever comes first). Since I use synthetic oil (and even if I used dino oil), I'm not concerned about my practice being detrimental to my RL.

I can think of several instances right off the bat where I diverge from the official MM/OM recommendations.
1) I change oil and filter at each OCI
2) I change power steering fluid about every 50k miles
3) I change coolant about every 60k miles
4) I change tranny fluid every other OCI.
5) I do a valve adjustment at the TB/WP service interval because I think a quiet engine could be more problematic than a 'noisy' engine since tight valves tend to be... quiet... and burn. I do not understand Honda's recommendation to check the valve lash only if noisy.
6) I re-use sealing washers
7) I let my TB/WP service go until 120k-ish miles

Otherwise, I pretty much follow the MM. :D

My way is not gospel. It's neither right nor wrong. It's simply my way and I have reasons I do it the way I do (for the most part!)
 
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