First take it to a competent independent mechanic for a real diagnosis.

 

Since I do mostly DIY, I've scrapped around looking for receipts myself just to cover my butt. Definitely worth keeping a record with dates/mileage for any service done.
I agree, on getting a competent independent mechanic to give it a listen. Especially one familiar with Hondas.

 

A good mechanic can find what's actually wrong with the engine and fix it for a lot less than a rebuilt engine. All the parts are available.

Before you start talking about replacing parts or an engine you need a good diagnosis. What is causing the knocking? Top end, bottom end? It could be something as easy as a valve adjustment. A lot more information is needed before you can make any kind of informed decision. To just say, "you need a new engine" is not a diagnosis... that's just throwing parts (or in this case an engine) at a problem.

When you start throwing parts at a problem without a proper diagnoses it usually costs a lot more money.

 

Thanks for the great advice. I do plan on bringing it in to an independant mechanic. I was kinda hoping that Honda Canada might come good on this issue but I am not holding my breath.

This is similar to the sound it is making..

Anybody else have the same issue and what is causing it???

 

That sounds like tappet noise to me. If so, it could be an easy fix for any competent mechanic.

 

Agreed, I would start with a valve adjustment and spark plug torque.

 

OH no. another j series knock. Some say its piston slap, some say lifters, some say connecting rod.... Id take it to another mechanic. You can shoot the sh*t about it all day but in the end your still going to have to open up the engine to see. That's way to loud to be something a valve adjustment is going to fix but its worth a try.

Does it do it just when cold or all the time?

 

It pretty much does it all the time but way worse when cold. It seems to be getting worse with time.

 

Ouch. Well that would rule out somewhat harmless piston slap. In the video you posted of another ridgeline with the same noise, when the camera gets under the engine the noise is slightly louder, or so it would seem. This could suggest something in the bottom end which is a serious problem. But still definitely get a second opinion.

 

Also have the timing belt tensioner checked. On the Ody forums I saw where the dealership said the engine needed to be replaced but the noise turned out to be the timing belt tensioner. On my wife's Ody I replaced the timing belt at 85k because the engine sounded like it was self destructing (yep it was the tensioner).

As others said though have a good mechanic check it out. I am so over the "Honda Experts" at my local dealership. If I do need to go to the dealership in the future I will be driving an extra 40 miles to go to a different one.

 

Also have the timing belt tensioner checked. On the Ody forums I saw where the dealership said the engine needed to be replaced but the noise turned out to be the timing belt tensioner. On my wife's Ody I replaced the timing belt at 85k because the engine sounded like it was self destructing (yep it was the tensioner).

As others said though have a good mechanic check it out. I am so over the "Honda Experts" at my local dealership. If I do need to go to the dealership in the future I will be driving an extra 40 miles to go to a different one.

The local Honda dealer charged me over $100 more to install a new power steering pump than a local shop that I used. The pump failed one month after the 1 year warranty expired; no sympathy from the dealer. My usual mechanic replaced the pump for over a $100 less AND included a lifetime warranty on the pump. Guess where I'm not going for my next Honda (I own two) repair? OTOH, the dealer usually has fresh donuts in their snack area...

 

Brought it in to another mechanice today and he had a good look and said noise is coming low and thinks it is the rod bearings. Looking at a price to get it fixed ouch!!!

 

If this is true, it will be the first case of J35 rod bearing failure that I'm aware of.

 

A true diagnosis involves more than listening.

I've done lower end work on other engines ( not J35's ), mostly Chevy and Ford V8s. If rod or crank bearings get really bad they can become noisy but they have a different sound than your video.

Cheap out on a diagnosis and you pay a whole lot more in the end.

 

Agree with you dk. I'm far from an expert, but I would expect a rod noise to be more of a knock. The sound in that video is more of a tap. If that makes any sense.

 

Just watched your video. This sounds exactly like the TB tensioner I mentioned above. If that is the case you might as well have the TB serviced. To check this, I would remove the passenger wheel and see if you can view the tensioner. I don't recall if you can see it easily on my wife's Ody, but everything was hard to deal with on it because the van has very limited space. I would be surprised if it was not the tensioner. I think there is a youtube video out there of the tensioner making the the noise. I will try to locate it.

 

For your listening and viewing pleasure.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yi5BbsTT9v0

 

You guys are pure genius at work--Frogbite, I promote you to Junior from Freshman--you have earned the right to skip your Sophomore year in ROC.:act024:

 

Good find, frogbite. I'll be surprised if this is anything more than the tensioner. Could it be the serpentine belt tensioner instead of the TB tensioner?

 

Good find, frogbite. I'll be surprised if this is anything more than the tensioner. Could it be the serpentine belt tensioner instead of the TB tensioner?

if it was the accessory belt it would be easy to see. Although I would not think that one would make the tapping noise. The TB tensioner is metal to metal as the tensioner pushes against the idler pulley. As the belt comes around it kind of slaps. It is dangerous to keep driving with it this way as the belt could slip which in turn could cause valve issues.

 

What can I say. I as well had Honda tell me I need top end work when my wife's van was making noise. I searched on youtube and found the video then ordered the parts and replaced the TB. Problem solved. So much for the experts at my local dealer.

 

Another example of how you can find almost any car issue in you tube. Those belt tensioners and bearings can get really loud when they go bad.

How horrible was that dealer, saying " you need a new engine". How careless and lacy is that?


On another subject my truck, when I first start it shakes and barely sounds differenrt only slightly until it warms up, it's almost unnoticeable, but I can detect it cause I know my truck.

I'm hoping a bad batch of gas, illhave to wait and see

 

Have you checked your spark plugs yet laser?

 

Yes! about over a year ago, i pulled all except for the last 2 in the back, I torqued them all at 14Lb with the cheap 3/8 Harbor Freight torque wrench. I have a tension torque wrench that I will use the next time instead.

Tonight since I did not use it in the morning, it sounded a bit better but I just feel it more than I hear it. I will be driving about 50 miles tomorrow, maybe I am over reacting, if I take it to a mechanic he will probably laugh, unless he is picky and he knows, just changed my oil and the level is good. But you are right the fact that I can feel it it could be a plug. I have an OBDII I could plug to see if there is an issue with a cylinder. Again I may be over reacting and my engine is probably smoother that many others with the same mileage.

 

I recall that IanRTL replaced his plugs, then after several thousand miles, commented about a similar sounding issue... rechecked his plugs and found 1 or more loose... or at least not to spec. He retorqued them and all was well.

Did you use anti-seize when you did the plugs?

 

I did notice this issue after replacing my plugs. I didn't use a TW on the plugs the first time and decided to check them a few months later. ALL of them were loose. I used the wrench on them and tightened to 14lbs. My truck still vibrates when I'm sitting at a stoplight while in drive. It is in the steering wheel as well as through the seat, so I know it's not power steering related (or else it would only be through the steering wheel, I think.) It appears to be worse on some days than others and is not dependent on outside temperature or fluid temperature. As soon as I press the gas, it goes away and all is well. I'm thinking I may need a valve adjustment or I might have a slightly failing engine mount. Really not sure, but it doesn't seem to affect the truck in any way. No codes or warning lights.

As far as the OP's issue, I would put my money on the TB tensioner. Mine was leaking and failing when I had my timing belt service done at 111k miles. It was replaced and the truck ran smoothly and more quietly after that. Start there!

 

Speed,

when I took my plugs out was it just to check them all and re torque them, I do no plan to change mine until maybe 110-115K miles I got 102K miles now.

I checked them with the issues reported here in mind and knowing that grease will only make it worse. All looked good except that I did not bother taking either the last 2 or only the last on the back right area, a couple of coils had some yellowish brownish smoke that just wiped off or heat related stains. Still have original plugs, I will check today before I drive it,
it is so insignificant that it is hard to notice, maybe I need to do the ILP since I did not do that after replacing my battery.

Thanks for the help and I welcome any suggestions

 

I'm pretty much convinced that the ILP sorts itself out in normal driving over the course of time. But it won't hurt to do it again.

 

My 2007 Ridgeline has a different problem. When you start it the engine light comes on, then when you start to move the D flashes, the VTM light comes on and you can feel it not shifting when it should. The RPM's will go up to 3000 to 3500. Sometimes it works perfectly. My son thinks it is something to do with the 4-wheel drive not working properly. Since it is not happening all the time, it is hard to get to the garage when it does. Any ideas?

 

How has your fluid maintenance been for the tranny fluid, front transfer case gear oil and rear diff VTM-4 fluid? Old and worn out fluid can cause all sorts of problems. One of your shift solenoids could be clogged or faulty causing erratic shifting and warning lights. Nonetheless, the truck is telling you that something is wrong.

When you say the RPM's go to 3000-3500, do you mean when you're driving and the truck won't shift until it hits those revs? Is the idle speed consistent or does it fluctuate? I would put my money on a shift solenoid. Start by doing 3-4 drains and fills of the transmission fluid (driving at least 10-15 miles in between each one) and a drain and fill of both the front transfer case and rear diff. Use Honda genuine fluids for the tranny (DW-1) and diff (VTM-4) and use whatever 80w-90 or 75w-90 gear oil you want for the transfer case. I use Mobil 1 or Valvoline synthetic gear oil in mine.

If the fluid changes don't correct the issue, there's something else mechanically wrong that will require more thorough diagnostics.

 

I had the same sound. I did a valve adjustment and it 85% resolved. Do research it as it is not a straight forward adjustment as it has three rockers per cylinder. The center rocker is not directly connected to a valve and Honda recommends a special tool to supply air pressure for the adjustment. I opted to just due the intake and exhaust adjustments and check the center one to be sure it wasn't too loose or tight. The reason why I only resolved 85%. Good luck

 

WOW, I have a 2007 Honda Ridgeline RTL that has 131,000 miles and I experienced the knocking noise, also, and was told I need a new engine. Is this something that's wrong with 2007? I have most all my receipts and I had most all my oil changes at the Honda dealership. Please let me know if this is something we may need to pursue. I actually bought another Ridgeline as I was so upset thinking it would last at least 200,000 to 300,000. I was distraught. Keep me posted.