I was wondering this too. Where is the "head unit to turn it on and off" located?

.

 

That's for the "speakers" in the bed which probably sound, well not great. The inverter has a switch and the plug is in the bed. Its like the Toyota Tacoma and it probably sucks as well. Highest wattage (400) is when truck is running. Won't power much. Better to buy a Honda generator thats quiet for any decent power. 400 watts is the power supply in a computer.

 

400 watts is the power supply in a small computer.

fify.
It can power radios, recharge cell phones and tablets and handheld video games. It could even run my Computerized telescope mount. But a blender for the tailgate party? I don't think so.

 

So, my RTL-T did not have the AC power outlet option in the back. You can clearly see where it belongs.

Does anyone know IF it can be added after the fact or is it like the BSM its factory install ONLY ?

D

 

So, my RTL-T did not have the AC power outlet option in the back. You can clearly see where it belongs.



Does anyone know IF it can be added after the fact or is it like the BSM its factory install ONLY ?



D

I'm sure it can. I've added outlets in my Accord for the kids in the back seats. Wires and all.


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Thanks for this info. I did call two different dealerships this morning and both said it could not be done.
Thats a shame.

 

That's what they told the Wright brothers, too.

 

I wired up an inverter in my wife's Accord....I don't see why the same thing can't be done in a G2 truck bed.

1) if possible, get an inverter that is very weather resistant (like for RV use), and try to weather-proof the installation. Be aware that the inverter also needs to breathe and cool itself, they can put out a lot if heat. I'm not sure if Honda mounts the inverter in the cab, or back behind the bed wall, but in the cab would be much better for weather/water/temp issues and overall longevity of the inverter.

2) Honda seems to think 400w maximum is a good idea, perhaps for battery longevity and integrity. If you want more than 400w, consider adding a second battery, and make it a deep-cycle marine battery with high amp capacity. Bigger inverter will need more cooling and larger wire.

3) run a heavy gauge wire from the battery positive terminal back to the inverter. There are online calculators where you can figure the gauge needed for the amperage you need to carry. 400w / 12v = 33.3 amps. Make sure you have an inline fuse that is rated for that amperage (36A). 2 gauge wire should work, 1/0 gauge would be better. If you go with a larger inverter, say 1500w, you may need 3/0 gauge or larger. Use copper wire, not aluminum or copper-clad aluminum (CCA). Go with wire made of many small strands as opposed to a few large strands. Quality jumper cable wires may work for shorter runs and be less expensive. Don't go too small on the wire, or you may have a fire on your hands. Bigger is better, but also much more expensive and harder to work with.

4) run a shorter wire from the inverter to nearby chassis for ground. This will probably need to be 6 or 8 gauge for 400w.

5) be aware that Honda uses a battery discharge protection system. Your home-made inverter will not have this, so figure out how long you can run whatever before you deplete your battery (again, there are online calculators to help you out).

6) with inverter in cabin, you will need to run wire back to the outlets in the bed. This will be 120v, so 400w / 120v = 3.3A. Smaller wire can be used for this run.

With all of that being said, I am NOT an electrician, and may have made some mistakes in the above diatribe. Google is your friend, start searching/reading about car inverters and best installation practices, tips, etc.

 

Randucci already accomplished this task:

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...forums/138-second-generation-ridgeline-2g-2017/139209-added-12v-outlet-bed.html

 

Isn't that just a 12V outlet? I thought the OP wanted an AC inverter?

 

Alternating current.

 

You would think the RTL-T would come with the outlet, so it doesn't appear until the E and BE? I just assumed that would be Standard in anything above the Sport.

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What turns off the inverter power if you exceed 400w. Could you replace the inverter with a more powerful unit (800 or 1200) and not have it kick off if exceed 400w? Is the existing wire heavy enough to carry 800 or 1200w inverter?

Thanks

 

Upping the inverter to 800W would require a wire of approx. 6awg and to go to 1200w would need about a 4awg wire. Both of those approximations assume an acceptable loss of up to 10% (non-critical use)! Should a lower loss figure be desired for critical use, 3% recommended, then the wire gauges increase to 4awg and 2awg, respectively. I believe the Honda provides a 10gauge wire which is for 400w/33amps (w/up to 10% loss). Generally the shutoff for over draw is in the inverter not the vehicle.

Sean

 

I own a '17 RTLT, but didn't opt for the in-bed power outlet option. Does anyone know if this is something that can be added without much problem? Has anyone installed one aftermarket by themselves and can you offer tips, etc? Thanks in advance!!!

 

I saw a thread about this a while back. You'll need to run heavy gauge wire from the battery back to the bed. Be certain to fuse it up by the battery!

 

The closer you can get the inverter to the battery, the better. This is because, with DC power, you need heavy gauge wire over short distances to carry the full current (and VERY heavy gauge over longer distances), whereas with AC power, good old 12-gauge will work for extended lengths.

However, you will also need to keep the inverter away from excess moisture and temperature extremes, which is likely why Honda mounts it in the cabin.

Do your research on wire gauge needed to carry your DC wattage of choice for the distance you need. You don't want to skimp here, and overkill will be safer in this regard.

 

Anyone find the part number for the RTL-E inverter? since the bed panels are so easy to remove couldn't we just take the inverter, and switch from the RTL-E, and wire ourselves? Is there programming in the accessory mode that hinders or won't allow it? Or is the switch a physical switch?

 

what do you want to power?

The rtl-e has the inverter located behind the rear seat next to the factory subwoofer. It's rate @ 150/400watts (engine off/on). Kind of wimpy in my opinion. You have the option of tapping into the trailer harness which is rated for 240watts. If you plan on lowering something with a motor, consider buying a true sine wave inverter. It will run the motor more efficiently.

I've been thinking about adding lifepo4 under the front passenger seat. Will probably raise the passenger seat while I'm at it. The whole usb-c pd for laptops is making me re-evaluate buying an inverter. A 12v usb-c pd adapter would be a lot more efficient & cheaper, too.

 

If I get back into camping it would be nice to have a plug in the bed to power a CPAP machine. I would get a couple of isolated 6v deep cycle batteries installed in the trunk and not use the starter battery. Of course, I would have to hire it done since I am partially colorblind and who knows what would end up wired to what. So I am curious if others have wired a power source in the factory spot in the bed.

 

... So I am curious if others have wired a power source in the factory spot in the bed.

Here you go: https://www.ridgelineownersclub.com...ersclub.com/forums/185-2g-problems-fixes-tsb-s/139209-added-12v-outlet-bed.html

 

Hopping on this thread - I want to modify the cover plate but before I do that, does anyone have the part number for the AC outlet well "flip" cover that protects the outside and is like a part of the bed? It has PP-GF30 printed on it, but Googling that gives me a radiator shroud. Thanks

 

Are you able to rummage through the schematic here? >> https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genui...line&Year=2018&Submodel=&Filter=(bt=4,3240;et=2,9)&Location=bed-floor-cargo,,13

BTW, you talking about this flip cover>

 

Has anyone done/asked for this? The button is blanked on the Sport model's dash and the panel in the bed is just blocked off.

If so, how much did/would it cost? It'd be nice to have something to plug my compressor into to reinflate my and my buddy's tires before hitting pavement again.

Just an FYI I don't own one but I'm pre-approved and plan on buying one sometime late next month. Just wondering if this is something I can ask for as an option alongside the utility package.

 

Short answer: The AC outlet cannot be added to lower trims. Even if you had the button, the inverter (mounted behind the rear seat), and the outlet mounted in the bed, the wiring harnesses are different.

Also, the AC outlet is limited to 400 watts (about 3.3 amps). Most AC-powered air compressors require considerably more power.

 

My thoughts on this is unless you have the built in and know it’s somewhat of a showroom gimmick my way of seeing this is separate system.

put inverter near as possible to desired outlet location

wire inverter with battery starter cables to battery, then put a marine battery isolating solenoid like Blue Seas sells as what I remember as a ACR solenoid

what this does is when vehicle battery is above storage battery it will charge and connect unless either of the two following things are wrong.

1 storage battery is fully charged or 2 vehicle battery is somewhat discharged and giving power away might make the vehicle not start.

also it has a bypass you can use to jumpstart your vehicle from the storage/ inverter battery if you need that.

perhaps put a built in charger for the inverter battery
Note these systems are separate unless some Extra charge is available to the inverter battery from the vehicle battery Or you need to jumpstart you vehicle battery - note no current moves through the inverter from the vehicle so a big enough wire set for jumpstarts is all needed

inverter to its battery might be as big as possible even huge if you have or get a deal for starter or welding cables

inv battery in trunk lets you open doors and stuff with totally dead or missing vehicle battery by pressing manual override button or triggering it with remote switch if you know location

 

The problem with putting the inverter further from the battery is the required gauge of cable to carry current to the inverter. The shorter that cable, the more efficient it can be.

I'd think if someone REALLY needed AC power, it would probably be easiest to use a second battery and have a switched connection to the vehicle's battery. While driving (or even if the 400W inverter is turned on) it can charge up. There are some charge controllers ("Overlanders" like to use two battery setups) that can do this. Some have solar panel tie ins as well.

In the Ridgeline, one could build a simple box, put a battery and inverter in it and put it in the trunk and either open the trunk to access the outlet(s), or cut a pass-through and have the outlets available in the side box where the normal inverter output is.

 

I have had an idea for a ridgeline accessory mod that involves relocating the spare tire to the bed and turning that area into a utilities trunk. Ac inverter, air compressor and a second reserve battery and charging system. Power leads would be larger gauge coming direct from the battery as its own bus and would parallel the normal harness. With a larger deep cycle battery under there, you could run a larger AC inverter without having to impact the main 12 volt bus of the truck.

And thinking on it, one could probably squeeze a small air hose reel under the truck too.

 

I have had an idea for a ridgeline accessory mod that involves relocating the spare tire to the bed and turning that area into a utilities trunk. Ac inverter, air compressor and a second reserve battery and charging system. Power oeads would be larger gauge coming direct from the battery as its own bus and would parallel the normal harness. With a larger deep cycle battery under there, you could run a larger AC inverter without having to impact the main 12 volt bus of the truck.

And thinking on it, one could probably squeeze a small air hose reel under the truck too.

That's a cool idea but it certainly seems like a big project.

 

I've re-wired the entire chassis of a WWII era armored vehicle with all new wiring pulled through new loom with nothing to go by other than a diagram. Adding in an extra power and ground circuit on a modern vehicle with a few relay controlled switches...pfff.

Only trick is making it look neat and factory looking. I kinda figure the utility panel in the bed would work well as a place for the air receptacle to go to.

 

Thinking on this, a DC outlet at the back would be useful to have as well.

And given how the G2's battery is hard to reach, an Anderson Power Pole Jumper connector seems like a good addition regardless of other needs.

 

Has anyone added bed inverter to sport after purchase?

 

The best way to do this depends on your intended usage.
I wouldn't try to get the Honda parts. Better off going with one of the many aftermarket inverters out there. Lower cost, more wattage, cleaner power. If I was to go this route, I'd use the in bed trunk for not only a secondary battery but also the inverter. Then from the front of the car add a marine/RV type battery charge splitter that will protect the car's circuits from your add ons with a good size cable to the secondary battery.