I've seen a report where someone put some vaseline on the gasket of the cap and the fuel cap light went away. Might be worth a try.

But since you put a new cap on, you may actually have an issue with the system.

 

But since you put a new cap on, you may actually have an issue with the system.

This is what I was thinking as I read the post, too.

Roak

 

My tags are due in May and in TN, you won't pass the emissions test if you have an engine light on.

Is there anything else i can check?

Worse case scenario, you get the code cleared the day before you go for the emmission test! :act043:

 

You'll need to put a certain number of miles on before the inspection station will accept the OBD-II readings as valid.

150 miles, maybe??

It's to prevent people from clearing the codes in the parking lot of the test station before the test.

Chip H.

 

Wife left ours loose about 3 years ago.......the code just went away last week............just kiddin, it did take 3-4 tanks of gas AND a tight cap! It will go away after awhile!

 

I wish I had an answer for because then I wouldn't have this problem. I get every so often. Sometimes it goes off the next time I start my truck & sometimes it stays on for a few weeks, it's a pain in the ass. The difference between our problems is mine hasn't made the check engine light come on.

 

I had this happen this first week I got my new 2011 RT. Somewhere here I read to tighten the gas cap about 10-12 clicks, as tight as you can. Since I do this now at every fillup it hasn't happened since. That was 6 months ago.?????

 

Same story for me. I just make sure to tighten a bunch of clicks and press it against the filler neck while tightening. Haven't had anymore issues

 

I haven't seen this message for a couple of years now after the dealer "fixed" it. They noticed it when I took it in for some other maintenance item and told me they would take care of it. I have no idea what they did.

 

I had the fuel cap message, both times it went away by itself, never check engine. I concluded it was an issue with altitude, temperature or humidity or maybe all.

In California, it is 40-50 miles without the check engine light to stay clear and pass.

 

If you get the condition once on a cold start, the gas cap message gets displayed. Same for the second time; message displayed. On a third COLD start, if the you get a check gas cap condition (slow leak), you will get the check engine light(OK, it;s not called that, it is the Multifunction Indicator Lamp). That code has to be cleared. The code may be a P0456 or P0457.
It will not clear over time even if the cap situation is fixed.
For me, having experienced the gas cap message several times in the last 4 years, I have found that it helps to turn the cap until you hear 5 or 6 clicks.

 

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41166

In a nutshell - YES. There are several threads dealing with the issue. Above is my experience.

Let me know what they find on yours! Hope yours is a simple, one trip solution.

I have had no issues at all since they replaced the Purge Solenoid.

Good Luck!

 

did you ever find out what a "purge solenoid" is? Is that a part i can buy from majestic?

I typically turn my gas cap several clicks. My understanding of the way the clicks work is that after it clicks once, the cap is as tight as it will go and the clicking is preventing you from tightening it any more. i could be wrong on that though.

 

google tells me that a purge solenoid is in this picture..

http://www.dealerdirectparts.com/20.../2007-HONDA-RIDGELINE-RTS-Vapor-Canister-Pu-p/honda-3517224-ridgeline-rts-4.htm

it is part number 3. i don't know where that actually is on the car though.

 

Nope, never did find out what it is, or where it is. Others asked me too. Just knew that the Honda Technicians told my dealership to replace it, they did, and the problem went away.

I also had the understanding that the "click" meant it was as tight as it would go....but I do 4 or 5 clicks always, just in case, like everyone keeps saying. 14 or 15 clicks like I read in a previous post, well, that just seems a little OCD and excessive. If it takes that many, something may be wrong....my 2 cents!

I wasn't a happy camper those first few months....I am now! I absolutely, drop dead LOVE my Ridge now!! And people comment on it DAILY! Most have never heard of it before!

 

My check fuel cap indicator went on the other day. Reading these threads about it, I was thinking to myself, "Oh, great, here we go...". But, I got out and checked my fuel cap, and what do you know, it was loose. The wife had filled up the truck and didn't put it on tight. I tightened it up, turned it until I got at least a 1/2 dozen clicks and, later that day, it went away.

As mentioned several times above, it's always a good idea to tighten the gas cap and turn it far enough were you get at least 3-4 clicks before you stop. I usually do that and, until the time mentioned above, I have not gotten the check fuel cap message in almost 7 years/104,000+ of ownership.

 

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com...INE&catcgry2=2008&catcgry3=4DR+RTL+(SUNROOF)&catcgry4=KA5AT&catcgry5=TUBING+(1)


i emailed majestic.. part number 1 is the purge solenoid.

 

hello
ive had my ridge now for a little over 2 years.I had the gas cap thing come up 2 times .I just used a Q tip and dabbed it in vaseline and rubbed it around the gas cap gasket and i was good to go . seems the gasket gets dry and doesnt seal good. give it a try ,it might work for ya all
Don

 

A friend of mine mentioned that he got the gas cap message by filling up with the motor running. I guess that makes sense. I wonder if you can cause the message by leaving the ignition on, even with the motor not running but the gas cap off.

 

I had the gas cap message last month, lasted about a week, finally went away after I pushed hard on the cap while screwing it on. I also tried the flipping the o ring manuver. I never got the check engine message. Light has been off for two expensive fill-ups now.

Update: Light still off

 

i got the "purge solenoid" delivered yesterday. i haven't had a chance to install it yet. A couple of months ago, i did have a code that indicated a problem with the vapor canister. I found the vapor canister here, but have no idea where that is on the car.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com...E&catcgry2=2006&catcgry3=4DR+RTL+(SUNROOF)&catcgry4=KA5AT&catcgry5=CANISTER+(1)

any ideas? that is the next thing i will replace if the purge solenoid doesn't fix it.

 

replaced the purge solenoid today. it took about 15 minutes. I will post back here if this fixes it.

steps to do purge solenoid..
remove plastic engine cover
the purge solenoid is on the drivers side directly behind the intake manifold
it has 2 hoses and 2 10mm bolts.
unplug the plug
remove the 2 bolts.. 1 on top and 1 on bottom
remove the bottom hose clamp and hose
remove the top hose clamp and hose
the purge solenoid is kind of shaped like a backwards sideways J
total time... 15-20 minutes

unplug negative battery terminal for 5-10 minutes to reset the MIL

 

Is disconnecting the battery a requirement? I know with most other manufactures, one you fix the problem the light will turn itself out.
If you unhooked the battery, you will have to do the idle learn process.

 

It's not a requirement, but that test only runs like once a week or something like that. I'm impatient and have to pass emissions next month. I've already redone the ILP. Due to my timeline, if this doesn't fix it, I need to move on to the next fix sooner rather than later.

on a side note, I went to both advance auto and autozone to try to get them to just clear the code for me. Both of them refused and cited the TN Clean Air Act. They said it is a $2500 fine per code that they clear. Sounds like a bunch of BS to me since they always used to clear them without question. You can do the loan-a-tool for them for free and clear it yourself if you don't want to mess with doing the ILP.

 

Emissions testing is getting tougher.

I do know that on most vehicles now a days, disconnecting the battery will not clear the code. It is still stored in memory and if the problem has not been fixed it will still show up active.

If you are just replacing parts trying to fix the problem you may end up paying more in the long run then taking it to a qualified mechanic or the dealer.

 

if this part doesn't fix it, i will likely take it to the place i bought it for diagnostics. they will charge $45 for a half hour of labor... and hopefully will retighten everything they loosen. I went back there to get diagnostics done on my engine mounts and they didn't tighten the bolts back after they finished "diagnosing" the problem.


and after they diagnose and quote me an outlandish price, i will just go order the part from majestic and do it myself. they quoted me out like $550 for the engine mounts. I did it myself for under $200.

 

DIY as much as you can to save some money, but don't get into the habit of throwing parts at to fix it. That way it will cost you more in the long run.

 

and "check fuel cap" came back last night when i cranked my truck to leave work..... fun times.

 

i took the truck back to the place i bought it. he ran the codes and cleared them for free and said that it could take a while to find a small vacuum leak. he also told me how to pass emissions in TN. When the "check fuel cap" message is on, there isn't a code that will cause you to fail emissions.

Here are the steps to know you are ready to pass emissions in TN (and maybe other states)
insert key and turn car to the on position, but don't crank the car
the MIL should turn on for about 10 seconds and then turn off. if it does, then you are ready.

If the MIL stays on for 20 seconds and then starts flashing, you aren't ready to take the emissions test.


I'm assuming that the system is indicating whether or not it has run all of the tests. i have driven about 125 miles since i got the code cleared and my mil still flashes after 20 seconds. It might also be counting a certain number of starts.

 

as mysteriously as it appeared, the "check fuel cap" has gone away. Also, my MIL doesn't flash after 20 seconds, so all of the tests have been run successfully. I'm going to hurry my truck down to the emissions testing facility this morning while all of the stars are aligned.

 

I'm guessing that replacing the purge solenoid didn't fix this issue??

My 07 rolling with 77,+++miles, and the chime and the message came on. My truck has already passed emissions test last month, and although I never go past one click, this time I took the gas cap off and tightened it to 2 clicks. Same message showed again. I've read through the 8 other previous threads, and have found no real solution short of taking it to the stealership :act047:

Whats a ROCer to do??

 

mine passed emissions the day that the message went away. the girl doing the emissions test commented on how tight my fuel cap was. I don't really know what made the message go away.

I replaced the purge solenoid and then cleared the codes myself by pulling the negative battery terminal. the message was back in about 3 or 4 days. I took the car to the place i bought it and they cleared the temp code...the message was back as soon as i cranked my car. about 2 weeks later (yesterday), the message was gone and the MIL wasn't flashing after 20 seconds with the key set to ON. I jumped on the chance to pass emissions even though it isn't due until next month.


I did 3 possible things that could have fixed it. Replaced fuel cap in february. Rubbed vaseline all over the opening where the O ring from the fuel cap touches the metal. Replaced purge solenoid.

oh and i have been tightening the crap out of that thing when i get gas. I'm pushing in and turning every time now.

I'm convinced that it was just environmental. The weather has been crazy in middle tenn since i got this truck. With that said, I think that there is a super sensitive/flaky sensor somewhere that Honda should fess up to and replace. I've never had a car that would throw a code because of a temperature change.