The clunk is the parking brake pawl unloading. Use the parking brake religiously and you'll never hear it again. It has been documented here before.

The rattle could be anything from the tweeter covers, to th center console, to a broken or leaky strut. If it was a motor mount, you would get vibration at certain engine rpm's on any terrain, even smooth road. At least that's what I would suspect.

Good luck.

 

Maybe my description of the clunk wasn't descriptive enough. The "clunk" will shake the whole truck. To test, I put a glass of water on the hood and it doesn't just spill water out - it tips the glass. I can't see the parking brake doing this. Additionally, on a flat surface I don't get any symptom at all. I'm not saying that I won't be proven wrong, but I am asking anyone with a photo/description of where the motor mounts are to chime in so I can at least check them. I didn't have this problem last week and it appears to be getting worse.

Jeff

 

Ya didn't tell us it was in a wreck.

 

I know. But I was hoping that by asking a specific question I would be able to get it answered and not have to publicly humiliate myself with this story of woe

 

Bad news Tonight driving home from walking the dog I crossed a cattle guard at ~ 25 mph and heard a "clunk" followed by a "ting" and watched a bolt bounce up from the asphalt somewhere near my drivers front. Looks like I'm walking while waiting for a service manual to arrive unless some kind person here can provide me with what I suspect is missing - the bolt from the motor mount from the drivers side. I really need a description of where it's located, what the bolt size is (I couldn't stop in time as there was traffic and it bounced into the ditch) and the appropriate torque.

Thanks,

Jeff

 

It's the transmission park pawl engaged under strain. When you park, keep your foot on the brake, shift into neutral (still with your foot firmly on the brake pedal), then use your other foot (left?) to set the emergency brake. Now take your right foot off the brake pedal and turn off the engine.

I made the distinction in left and right because some people use their right foot for gas and the left for the brake. That will screw up your tranny fast, but that's another thread.

 

Silly me, I posted the above before looking under the truck. Attached is a photo of where the bolt appears to have come from. Can someone give me the specs on theirs? I need at least the bolt size and thread count.

Thanks,

Jeff

 

I was looking at your pic trying to figure out what bolt was missing. Is this the one?

 

The clunk and then the ting sounds like one of the nuts on the sway bar links came off. The ting is when the sway bar link popped out of the sway bar.

Just my .02 cents.

 

Sorry, I didn't see the pic! I'll look in my service manual and try to get the info. to you in a few minutes.

 

OneBigDog the bolt size you're looking for is 10X1.25 but it doesn't give me the length of the bolt. The part # is 90187-SJC-A00 Sorry I couldn't help you out more, but the service manual just doesn't give the length of the bolt.

 

Many thanks!! I'll walk to the parts store tomorrow and post an update once I'm driving again

 

I'm back to feeling safe about driving again. Since Payson is small I ended up having to go to a hardware parts store (neither of the three auto parts stores had the right bolt), buy the correct type of bolt and then get a tap and re-tap the engine side of the pathway. I also ended up using a washer so that I could fully tighten the bolt. Anyway, it's DONE and I'm HAPPY.

Thanks for the info/help,

Jeff

 

Is it too late to go back to your insurance company and complain about the quality of the work that was done? Maybe they can recommend a different bodyshop to give your RL a good going-over, looking for missing fasteners, etc.

Having suspension components fall off could be hazardous.

Chip H.

 

I just looked under my truck when I was putting my new grill on and I am missing the same bolts.

 

That would be it according to his picture.

 

Yep,

That's the one. There's a second one on the same bracket so it's not a total loss of support but it can't be good. On my vehicle it looks like the bolt had been loose/sloppy for a bit and so the threads were shot and the new bolt could not be put in until after I had run a tap in it.

With regard to the insurance, they wanted me to take someone else but since I knew this shop and was comfortable with them (they did restoration work on a 1962 F100 uni-body of mine) I chose them. What I didn't expect was the management change/fraud. Since it's been over 9 months since the work was completed, I'm on my own.