has anyone had any luck with cold air intakes in a 2019 RT-E
gearsparkie
Start here:
www.ridgelineownersclub.com
G2 aem air intake
http://www.aemintakes.com/mobile/product.aspx?prod=21-795c Any thoughts on this?
www.ridgelineownersclub.com
Save your money...it will do absolutely NOTHING for your truck, but make it louder under the hood. Without a tune and cat-back exhaust...a CAI is WORTHLESS. Looks perdy under the hood and that's about it.
Not sure what you mean by “any luck with cold air intake”. I monitor IAT and the stock intake takes all of its air from in front of the condenser/radiator…..ambient temp air. Will an aftermarket intake allow cooler than ambient air to enter the throttle body?…..I’m guessing no since the actual point of air intake, for the aftermarket unit, is above the hot tranny or from the hot engine compartment.
Some aftermarket CAI IAT numbers vs factory IAT numbers, under identical conditions, would be interesting.🤷‍♂️ On the flip side, the CAI filter element may offer less restriction to airflow, but if may also filter less dirt.
Some aftermarket CAI IAT numbers vs factory IAT numbers, under identical conditions, would be interesting.🤷‍♂️ On the flip side, the CAI filter element may offer less restriction to airflow, but if may also filter less dirt.
If you're driving the Ridgeline from 5k to redline everywhere you go, the butt and ear dyno will be happy. So will the oil companies. Otherwise, look at the stock airbox; it's cowl induction from front of vehicle. Spend the $50 on a less restrictive air filter and feel satisfied that it's "no longer stock". 
If you rip the intake out, dump the cats, bigger J Pipe and a free-er flowing catback and someone that knows how to dial in K tuner, you can dump $3000 to get 30-35 peak wheel horsepower at redline and lose 20 ft/lbs of torque below 5k. I dumped a lot of money into the J35 / J37 on Acura TLs and learned this the hard way. Save your bucks, and buy a Mercedes for the weekend.
If you rip the intake out, dump the cats, bigger J Pipe and a free-er flowing catback and someone that knows how to dial in K tuner, you can dump $3000 to get 30-35 peak wheel horsepower at redline and lose 20 ft/lbs of torque below 5k. I dumped a lot of money into the J35 / J37 on Acura TLs and learned this the hard way. Save your bucks, and buy a Mercedes for the weekend.
2021 Honda Ridgeline 3.5L V6 Gas Performance Parts | AEM
Shop K&N product that is compatible with the 2021 Honda Ridgeline 3.5L V6 Gas.
www.aemintakes.com
FWIW- out of curiosity, I use a infrared laser thermometer to take the temperature under the hood of my 2019 RL, after reading a bunch of threads about heat, transmission, oil, etc. Surprise! - the air temperature under the hood was over 130 degrees Fahrenheit! To me, these aftermarket "cold air intake" are pure marketing BS.
The factory intake truly pulls in cold air
The factory intake truly pulls in cold air
I bought the AEM. I don't think it was worth it. It also caused an annoying issue where the engine idle decreased when the AC compressor kicked in - to a point of causing transient low voltage.
I do like the sound and I would say it has slightly better acceleration above 5K RPM (as advertised). If I can get the idle issue fixed I'll keep it, otherwise I'll go back to stock.
I do like the sound and I would say it has slightly better acceleration above 5K RPM (as advertised). If I can get the idle issue fixed I'll keep it, otherwise I'll go back to stock.
Youtuber "Yuriy Motso" has a bunch of ridgeline videos with product reviews, modifications, etc. He did some comparing the oem filter with a washable "lifetime" filter and a cold air intake. He actually compared them with a dyno and "at the track". His results were kind of all over the place, but basically he determined that the aftermarket filter and the cold air intake had very little, if any, increase in performance.
Ironically, the "cold" air intake actually sucks in hot air from inside the engine compartment. It did sound pretty sweet, though. If you're into that sort of thing.....
Ironically, the "cold" air intake actually sucks in hot air from inside the engine compartment. It did sound pretty sweet, though. If you're into that sort of thing.....
MAF sensor is tuned for the stock setup. Change the intake and the MAF sensor will read wrong values. That is the main reason for the issues reported after swapping the intake.
Some have luck others don't. Without a tuning solution, I don't recommend changing the intake of any car.
Those STRIM/LTRIM will suffer a lot.
Learned how to reprogram my 2009 Civic SI ECU and many other people using Flashpro. So I'm not talking theory here.
Some have luck others don't. Without a tuning solution, I don't recommend changing the intake of any car.
Those STRIM/LTRIM will suffer a lot.
Learned how to reprogram my 2009 Civic SI ECU and many other people using Flashpro. So I'm not talking theory here.
Are the people involved in these discussions involved in the research and development of tuned intakes and exhausts?
I only have one thing to add, Honda has always tuned it's commuter/passenger car engines to be as fuel efficient as possible and quiet. These plastic corrugated intakes are not designed for ultimate power or performance. The majority of people would never buy their vehicles if that were the case. Take a look at the Type R, NSX and S2000 intakes, yes they have resonators, but those ones are tuned for power and performance, our Ridgeline was not!
I only have one thing to add, Honda has always tuned it's commuter/passenger car engines to be as fuel efficient as possible and quiet. These plastic corrugated intakes are not designed for ultimate power or performance. The majority of people would never buy their vehicles if that were the case. Take a look at the Type R, NSX and S2000 intakes, yes they have resonators, but those ones are tuned for power and performance, our Ridgeline was not!
Not saying aftermarket intakes are worth 30% more power or MPG over stock. They are for people who may want a little bit of added throttle response and some added noise under the hood. Unless you get them tuned then you may see marginal gains.
It always seems to be the same members who are anti modification!
Happy trails
It always seems to be the same members who are anti modification!
Happy trails
If anyone is interested, here are two posts by member (no longer a member?) Kodiak. They were found in this very old thread (in this forum): Cold Air Intake Systems and Low-Restriction Air Filters...
These comments are contemporary to the GenI Ridgelines early years so some stuff like the comments on Premium fuel are not likely to be relevant to the GenII.
BTW, Kodiak might be a little bit biased. He was the head engineer for the GenI Ridgeline project . . .
"Not this again.......
The Ridgeline is already equipped with a "cold air" intake system from the factory. Hours upon hours of testing has been done to validate the performance under a variety of conditions in sand, dust, snow, and 680mm of water. You do not need to modify this system. It is a pointless waste of time since the base unit has been engineered for you.
Any significant gain in engine power must be achieved by a significant gain in air flow through the entire system. this includes the throttle body, air intake system and exhaust. Improving the air flow in the current Ridgeline requires modifying the ENTIRE system to achieve any significant benefits.
Your simplest gain in horsepower can be achieved by using premium fuel. This also improves your torque margin which can result in real word improvements in fuel economy - depending on the terrain (more in hilly regions, less in flat terrain). Most of the claimed improvements are a result of the fuel upgraded, not a significant gain in air flow.
Re-Mapping the EC to improve the ignition timing can improve horsepower and drivablility. The system is already applying the max fuel flow at WOT. However, the system is mapped to prevent pre-ignition which causes engine damage. There is no free lunch here fellas. Sorry.
As already stated, if you want acoustics - change the exhaust. If you want a boost in the seat - buy premium.
If you want to line the pockets of snake oil salesmen - please send me your money instead. I will invest it in real hardware.
K"
"The 2006 MDX is equipped with the same basic engine structure as the Ridgeline. However, are you stated, the 2006 MDX was equipped with a dual outlet exhaust system which produced more airflow than the Ridgeline. The MDX also does not have the intake riser that is in place on the Ridgeline. Simply put, the MDX was tuned for HP – the Ridgeline was focused on towing and mid-range torque from the same engine structure. Two different tuning philosophies that drove the entire air-flow system design.
As stated previously at nauseating length – meaningful increases in performance require hardware upgrades. A completely redesigned exhaust system with a larger pipe diameter coupled with a cooperative increase in the throttle body diameter and air intake system will result in improvements. I do not believe anyone is contesting this.
What is being stated is there are many sources of misleading information that is tainted to encourage you to dump money out of your pocket. Remember what your mother told you: If something seems too good to be true – it probably is.
I need to start selling youth tonic. I could make a fortune."
These comments are contemporary to the GenI Ridgelines early years so some stuff like the comments on Premium fuel are not likely to be relevant to the GenII.
BTW, Kodiak might be a little bit biased. He was the head engineer for the GenI Ridgeline project . . .
"Not this again.......
The Ridgeline is already equipped with a "cold air" intake system from the factory. Hours upon hours of testing has been done to validate the performance under a variety of conditions in sand, dust, snow, and 680mm of water. You do not need to modify this system. It is a pointless waste of time since the base unit has been engineered for you.
Any significant gain in engine power must be achieved by a significant gain in air flow through the entire system. this includes the throttle body, air intake system and exhaust. Improving the air flow in the current Ridgeline requires modifying the ENTIRE system to achieve any significant benefits.
Your simplest gain in horsepower can be achieved by using premium fuel. This also improves your torque margin which can result in real word improvements in fuel economy - depending on the terrain (more in hilly regions, less in flat terrain). Most of the claimed improvements are a result of the fuel upgraded, not a significant gain in air flow.
Re-Mapping the EC to improve the ignition timing can improve horsepower and drivablility. The system is already applying the max fuel flow at WOT. However, the system is mapped to prevent pre-ignition which causes engine damage. There is no free lunch here fellas. Sorry.
As already stated, if you want acoustics - change the exhaust. If you want a boost in the seat - buy premium.
If you want to line the pockets of snake oil salesmen - please send me your money instead
. I will invest it in real hardware.K"
"The 2006 MDX is equipped with the same basic engine structure as the Ridgeline. However, are you stated, the 2006 MDX was equipped with a dual outlet exhaust system which produced more airflow than the Ridgeline. The MDX also does not have the intake riser that is in place on the Ridgeline. Simply put, the MDX was tuned for HP – the Ridgeline was focused on towing and mid-range torque from the same engine structure. Two different tuning philosophies that drove the entire air-flow system design.
As stated previously at nauseating length – meaningful increases in performance require hardware upgrades. A completely redesigned exhaust system with a larger pipe diameter coupled with a cooperative increase in the throttle body diameter and air intake system will result in improvements. I do not believe anyone is contesting this.
What is being stated is there are many sources of misleading information that is tainted to encourage you to dump money out of your pocket. Remember what your mother told you: If something seems too good to be true – it probably is.
I need to start selling youth tonic. I could make a fortune."
While I don’t have a dog in this fight one way or another, I think people that want to mod their vehicles will find ways to get around issues from the manufacturer and make it better…..whether it be for themselves or the community. I had often thought about a CAI, but was hesitant to purchase one. I’m still on the fence, but that doesn’t matter. I had read an article many years ago (before CAI’s were available) that one guy tried to reduce the intake air temperature by insulating the intake hose. From what I remember, it helped. I just haven’t got around to doing it but, if I do, I’ll post pics. I’m thinking of using some stuff from Lowe’s called Reflectix and I could probably wrap it from the air intake to the throttle body. Don’t know if it would any good, but worth a try for at least 10 tanks of gas to get good results compared to the before. I’d probably have to post before and after results too! You guys want data!🙄
Any one with a stock 2020+ without AEM intake wanna go for a race in or near Tampa FL? Maybe a race is what'll prove if an aftermarket intake does anything.
I have the AEM intake (2020 RTL-E with 55k+ miles) running for over three months no problem. I also have BFG Trail Terrains 265-60/R18 on HPD heavy wheels so that'll slow me a bit lol.
I have the AEM intake (2020 RTL-E with 55k+ miles) running for over three months no problem. I also have BFG Trail Terrains 265-60/R18 on HPD heavy wheels so that'll slow me a bit lol.
Is that 28hp gain in the 2000-3000 rpm range…..where 99.9% of Ridgeline driving is done? Does that EM CAI flow COLDER air than the factory CAI? If it does, where does that colder air come from? Wonder why an auto manufacturer would use a filter element that would cut their advertised hp by 28? Does that EM CAI come with a larger diameter throttle body and larger intake valves?🤷‍♂️
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