Best way to flush is 'slow'. Find a mechanic with a fluid exchanger like a BG PF5. While the engine idles, the pump in the transmission does all the work. The exchanger collects the old fluid while a reservoir of fresh fluid provides the fill.

A more crude way is to open a coolant line and get 2 buckets. A clean one for the fresh fluid and another for the old. You run it the same way making sure there is
always fresh fluid in the clean bucket until the fluid going into the old buck is clean.

After either method there is the the normal topping up routine after everything is reconnected.

These are the only ways to flush the transmission with the least risk of doing damage. Do not power flush and do not use any solvents.

 

I like the second idea. I'm going to try this method, seems like the best way to ensure there is completely fresh fluid in my trans. Any idea how much trans fluid I may need for this method?

Thanks!!

 

I would just do the 3x one more time.

 

Automatic Transmission Fluid Capacity

Change 3.1 liters (3.3 US quarts)
Total 8.0 liters (8.5 US quarts)

Hate to say, but if did 3 x refill with 3.3 qrts, you should have replaced ENTIRE fluid and then some.
Not sure how you still getting milkshake, how you know it's there, but you either have more damage than you fixed with simple radiator replacement, or you picking up some MS crud that stuck in vast AT and TC and lines and ATF radiator.
If I were you, aiming at 2 buckets flush, I'd have run Transtune through the fluid. NEVER had any issues from it.

 

3X is about 90%. Speedlever has the 'chart' I believe. 90% is probably more than enough for a normal maintenance procedure. I would go with 100% if I suspected ANY non-ATF contamination. You will be doing a lot work and using a lot of ATF to flush close to 100% when it can all be done in 15 min. once you are set up.
I see no reason to add anything beyond clean ATF which is all it needs to function properly. You do so at your own risk I guess.

 

I have no desire to run a solvent or "flush". Honda ATF is good enough for me. I will do the push/pull method through the cooler lines, I want to be 100% sure I get all the bad fluid out. After the 3X I am still seeing milky fluid which is not acceptable to me. Unfortunately I have to wait to go to the dealer tomorrow and get the fluid as they are closed today. Thanks so much rollinhonda, your posts have been extremely helpful. :act035:

 

3 x 3.3 = 9.9, at total capacity being 8.5.
I am most positive, as I had this done before several times, it all goes to how long you drive on refill. Manuals say to drive at least 15 miles, drain and refill. I did more, but his vehicle is in emergency situation, I doubt he really took her out for a say 50 mile drive. And I don't blame him.

 

I support the ukroz method for a fast change out and you will likely get good results for an immediate fix if under a time constraint. I would still recommend the slow-flush to be sure.
I did not have a problem with mixing of fluids and paid to have a mechanic to do flush for me. For $70 and my own ATF it was well worth it.

 

I've used the cooler line method on other vehicles. It's fairly simple and easy, but _can_ be a little messy if a person isn't careful.
I used to figure on a case (3 gallons) for 1 flush using this method, but it doesn't really take that much, if you are 'thrifty.'

 

As koz mentioned, the total capacity of the transmission is 8.5 US qts. I would think a case (3 gallons) would be a minimum with which to start, depending how messy the process you choose may be.

If you drain ~3.5 qts per change (as has been my experience), it won't take quite as many drain and fills to get ~99% new fluid. But it will still take at least 10 D&Fs to get to 99.5% new fluid.

Three D&Fs will only get you to about 80%. Obviously, the fluid exchange is the better idea to exchange as much as possible. And it should be much quicker than doing all those D&Fs.

However, a couple of questions/comments for the fluid exchange process:
1) will the intake hose prime itself?
2) I would think it necessary to operate all gears during the fluid exchange in order to move all fluid through the system... which would seem to require quite a bit more fresh fluid on hand, maybe 2 cases, depending on how quickly the internal pump sucks in the fresh fluid.

 

Yes, it does require having at least 14 on hand, not just a case of 12.
Practically, this would only have to be done once in the life of the vehicle. One major slow flush, then 3X D&F going forward for the life of the vehicle. The only possible exception would be if the fluid becomes contaminated (again) in the future.

As far as 'self-priming' I did not notice this being an issue when connected to an exchanger.

But in the short video 'somewhere on this forum' of a mechanic doing this manually it was apparent he had no issue because he kept fresh ATF pouring in from the top, relying on gravity feed. This would likely be preferable to using a 'pail' of supply fluid. I did think using 2 pails was a good way to envision the method but pouring fresh fluid in as you go should be even easier.
It would be easier to run the trans through gears using an exchanger, but with a little help from your friends, doing it as you pour would still be possible I think. Again, I am not sure this is really necessary since the operation is continuous until the exit fluid becomes clear. But a good question!

 

Self priming? The return-side hose from the cooler isn't an intake hose; there isn't 'suction' per se, on any I've done. OTOH, I don't try to keep fluid filling in on that return side. I just start the truck, let the pump pump the 'pan' dry, and shut it down. Re-fill via the fill hole, start the truck up, and do it again. It's not hard to cycle it through the gears if you want to. I don't choose to speculate what portion of 'all' the fluid is quickly and easily exchanged with this method. I just know it's super-quick, super-simple, and super-easy to do it this way, and you end up with very little to no old fluid at the end of the process.

 

I'm not sure I'm comfy with pumping the sump empty like that. It may be fine, but I'm not real tranny savvy that way. My thought was to stick the intake side in a bucket of fresh fluid and the outlet side in a waste bucket and let the fluid exchange begin.

 

I've always heard of it being described using two buckets, so it seemed like a logical way to go. I don't think the way an exchanger works is much different. It is really a passive device.

Here's a more detailed explanation I found at BITOG forum. It seems to explain it quite well. Consider they are discussing trans with filters and dropping pans.


http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3015430

The machine is charged with fresh fluid into a double-ended cylinder, with a piston and seal at one end. The machine is then connected in series with a cooler line. When the car's engine is started, the transmission's own pump pushes the old fluid into the "empty" end of the machine's cylinder, which causes the sealed piston to push the fresh fluid back into the transmission at the same rate and pressure as would happen under normal driving. There is no mixing of the old and new fluid. Assuming the machine is charged with sufficient fresh fluid, all of the old fluid should be exchanged for new.


Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Note that the overwhelming majority of a slushbox's debris is produced during break in and at low miles. After that there won't be much junk. So a filter change is a big deal at lower mileages,

Agreed. Whether you do a fluid exchange or a simple drain & fill, the first filter change is the most important. After the first 10-15,000 miles from new, the transmission produces so little debris that changing the filter isn't necessary for routine maintenance. Having fresh fluid is more important than changing the filter...

 

Rollin, I was speaking to bulwnkl's method of pumping the pan dry.

 

Basically gravity feed, which makes perfect sense but I think I would avoid running the 'sump' (such as it is) dry.
I would probably opt for gravity feed vs. a pail for the new fluid.
I guess it would have to pour into a huge funnel that was connected to the other end of the coolant line. It is only way to ensure all the fluid is circulated through the rad/exchanger.



What's wrong pouring the fluid into the fill hole and using a reduced diameter hose on the drain hole that goes in a big bucket while the engine is running.
Would that work? Then you would not even have to mess with the coolant lines. OF course you would need a valve to turn off the drain. maybe leave that fitting
permanent. Or drain off the 3.3 qts of new fluid into a clean container and pouring that back into the fill hole after replacing the drain plug.
You have some added flexibility not dealing with a pan or replaceable filter.

 

I understand where you're coming from, speed. There's a guy on a Hyundai forum I used to go to who hung a medical bag from the hood filled ith the fresh fluid. Similar to an IV, though he used enema bags.

 

All great stuff guys, thanks so much! I am just on my way out to do this now. Wish me luck. I will post up results and methods when I am finished. I like the gravity fill I also was thinking of filling through the fill hole and flushing out a cooler line. We shall see...

 

Goood luck! Pics if you can!

 

Did you know about this problem before it happened or when it happened and how.






Just wondering.:act030:

 

I had never heard of the issue before. I mentioned it to my Honda Parts guy, he'd never heard of it.

So I took off the outlet hose of the trans, and opened up the fill plug. I loaded the funnel with fresh fluid and turned on the truck while I kept the funnel full as possible. It puked out all the milky fluid, of which I had already done a 3x drain and fill, and then I also opened up the drain plug afterwards to drain out any residual fluids. I then put in about 6 litres of fresh fluid(I know capacity is 8.5) and it looks perfectly clean now. Dipstick showed full when hot. I will wait one week and do another drain and fill just to be sure. I drove the truck and it drives perfectly.

I had also attempted to fully flush the cooling system but after the drive I noticed the coolant still has some gunk in it.

 

Good job, DarrenD! Also a good illustration of why those of us who perform cooler line 'flushes' think they do a more complete job of changing fluid than just draining and refilling.

 

Way to go, Darren. Glad it worked out. Gather the facts, mix in some common sense, and you can get the job done.

 

A huge thank you to this site and the extremely helpful individuals that came to my aid. You guys :act035: !

I drove the truck to work today and it shifts perfectly. I plan on doing a few more drain and fills in the next month and more definitely before winter. Hopefully(fingers crossed) no major damage was done. My Ridge has 283000 kms (170000 miles) on it and I plan to do another 170000 miles. It also gave me a good chance to change the oil, serpentine belt, air filter and clean the engine bay out a bit. I love my Ridgeline and hope it keeps running for years to come. I think I just have to spend a bit more time here at ROC to accomplish that.

Thanks again for all your help everybody. I owe you all a beer.

 

A huge thank you to this site and the extremely helpful individuals that came to my aid. You guys :act035: !


Thanks again for all your help everybody. I owe you all a beer.

I'll take a Moosehead! or maybe O'Keefe's. Can remember when friends in BC called it hi-test.

 

Here is how I have always done it

Dump whatever you can from the trans. In many cases this involves pulling the pan to change a filter. Not on a Ridgeline, unless you feel like pulling the the trans to change it's filter

Anyways, refill the trans with the amount you dumped, get close, does not have to be exact

Pull the cooler hose where it goes back to the trans. Put it in a 2 liter soda bottle.

Start the vehicle, when the bottle is full, shut off the vehicle, add 2 liters of new fluid to the trans

Repeat until you get clean fluid. Feel free shift gears while filling the bottle.

I like this method because it is pretty clean (on transmissions with pans and no drain plug, I usually pump out 2 liters first to help empty the pan) the transmission is always sucking up new clean fluid, and there is little chance of running the trans dry, which is very bad for vane style hydraulic pumps.

Hardest thing about this method is figuring out which cooler line is out and which is back in. And that was the whole reason I checked out this post in the first place



Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk