I had no ideal about this, had to jump my neighbors jeep the other day and I connected neg to neg and pos to pos... it all works as it should. I wonder if this applies only when jumping the RL.

 

One thing about technology is everything simple, becomes complicated.

 

Interesting. I hope that someone can enlighten us on the reason for this.

 

For a 2012 Honda Accord

If the battery in your Accord is dead, you’ll need a jump to get running once more (and then you’ll probably want to get the battery replaced, or at least have the charging system checked). To jump your battery, follow these steps:

Open the hood.

Make sure there’s no damage to the battery (if there is, don’t jump it).

Turn everything in the car off.

Connect the jumper cables in this order:
Positive cable to positive battery terminal
Positive cable to positive terminal on the good battery
Negative cable to the negative terminal on the good battery
Negative cable to the engine mounting bolt. Note: If you have a V6, connect the negative cable to the engine hanger.

If the good battery is in another car, make sure the engine is running.

Start your car.

If the starter seems slow, let it sit for a minute or two before trying again.

After the engine cranks, disconnect the jumper cables beginning with the negative cable on your engine.

 

so...the original question still remains !

Too far of a stretch & taking off the engine cover...too much work.

 

Could you buy a short jumper cable and just use it to extend the reach of the negative cable on your booster pack? If you're worried about a short or a spark where you fasten the jumper cable to your booster pack, you might be able to make a simple sheath for that connection with a piece of inner tube.

 

Wondering if it is difficult to remove from the pins, especially in the snow or heavy rain. Hmmm... maybe we need to practice this, just in case.. :wink: Besides there is a potential to fry the complicated onboard computer, I cannot think of any other reasons.

 

If you're talking about the engine cover...it is super easy to remove !! ...BUT !!!

because it's rubber on rubber..you have resistance/friction when trying to put back ( pushing down ).... the friction makes it difficult to put back...the grommet won't slide down on the pins.

REMOVE-->> EASY
PUTTING BACK-->>DIFFICULT

I ended up losing a couple of the grommets that goes onto the 4 pins ( friction/resistant makes it pop loose )..This is from when I was installing the VCMuzzler II

I have since sprayed automotive grease/lube on the grommets & pins and now I can removed/install in seconds

 

I'm betting the wording is mainly to help prevent battery explosions connecting both + and - to the battery terminals and a spark igniting hydrogen gas. If the G2 RL is different electrically than any other vehicle in the world, I'd like to know about it. I agree that removing the engine cover is a PITA.

And if I had to jump a G2, I would likely just connect to the terminals themselves. I seriously doubt anyone in the field is going to remove the engine cover (or would even know to do that) to jump start a G2 RL. I'm curious if the G3 Pilot has a similar jump starting note?

One reason I carry a jump starter is so I won't have to connect my vehicle's electric system to another system. I have done so in the past without harm, but I think today's computer driven vehicles are much more susceptible to electronic damage from this process than vehicles of yesterday.

There are (or used to be) jumper cables that sorted out the +/- automagically. I don't know if they're still offered or not. But a jump starter (JNC-660 in my case) eliminates the danger to using my vehicle as the power source to jump a dead battery.

 

...

There are (or used to be) jumper cables that sorted out the +/- automagically. I don't know if they're still offered or not. But a jump starter (JNC-660 in my case) eliminates the danger to using my vehicle as the power source to jump a dead battery.

I've got one of those JNC-660 jumpers, also. They are nice for an old-style jumper pack....relatively small and lightweight.

Still toying with the idea of getting one of those lithium jumpers that fit in your shirt pocket. I know they work and have plenty of juice for multiple jumps, but I am concerned about their stability when sitting in sub-zero temps for a week. Last time I needed a jump was at the airport after the car sat for a week (had turned on the overhead light to make sure I had everything I needed, and forgot to shut it off when the parking shuttle pulled up).

 

Taking about spark, it reminds me of my NOCO Genius Smart Battery Charger. I bought it and put in my old car for emergency but never used it except re-charge it twice a year. It said it has spark-proof technology. Now, I am wondering if the NOCO jumper cable is LONG enough if we have to charge it this way, I have to check tonight. Arrrgg.... also, not sure if it is powerful enough to boost the G2 RL. :surprise:

 

Engine cover pulls off with no tools, and has 4 grommets that sit on 4 posts on the engine.

Put a tiny amount of grease in the center holes of the rubber grommets, or the grommets will get pulled from the cover and lost. Practice with the cover for 2 minutes and familiarize, so you won't be overwhelmed while jump starting.

Another great spot for jump starting is the engine mouting bolt on the passenger side motor mount. It runs front to back, and has solid metal connection for good ground. No engine cover removal necessary.

 

I see no one has really addressed the reason still, so here goes.
It will still start just fine if you attach pos to pos and neg to neg. The practice of using the frame was to prevent the accidental short circuit if you connect pos to neg. Obviously not good, and can melt your jumper cables in short order...
Moving the negative mounting point to the opposite side of the engine bay is another safety change. Lead acid batteries can produce hydrogen (very flammable). The last connection you make is going to be the one that may spark. Moving that connection as far from the battery as possible, limits the chance of that hydrogen catching fire.
It's unlikely to happen, but still a possibility.

 

I got me one of these since last year and it WILL start anything and hold its charge for at least 1 year ( I have tested it and it's true as advertised )

https://www.cyntur.com/Store/Product-Viewer/lithium-ionjumpstarter

again...too short to stretch to those 2 points...I'm just going to go with what I have done for a LONG time !!..POS to POS....NEG to metal frame

 

I got me one of these since last year and it WILL start anything and hold its charge for at least 1 year ( I have tested it and it's true as advertised )

https://www.cyntur.com/Store/Product-Viewer/lithium-ionjumpstarter

Very cool, thanks for the heads up - I can see this coming in very handy.

 

There are quite a few of these small devices out now. Woot has the no-name brands on sale for ~$50 every few weeks, but don't know if I'd trust them.

Microstart XP is another popular brand, and I think it's the one carried by Snap-On Tools?

 

Most newer cars, especially Hondas you have to jump pos to pos. Negative on good battery to negative ground on engine on dead car . If you don't you well more likely pop main fuse. Now car is completely dead. And most auto stores don't carry the multi block fuses.

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RL doesnt want to help with jumpstarting

So I was going to jumpstart my wife's company car today, but realized how difficult it was to get to the RL battery's negative terminal. Anyone else figure this out?

 

Re: RL doesnt want to help with jumpstarting

Ya, it's a pita. You have to take the engine cover off and there is a hoist lift type bracket towards the passenger side that you put the negative jumper cable on. I don't use jumper cables to jump somebody from my RL. I'm worried about frying The RLs electronics....... so I have a lithium jumper pack that's about the size of a small paperback and weighs about 1lb. It'll jump a friggin diesel and only needs to be topped off every 5-6 months. Plus it has all kinds of cables to charge phones, tablets, computers, etc. Cost about $55.

something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VF2WYQU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Randy

 

Re: RL doesnt want to help with jumpstarting

Ya, it's a pita. You have to take the engine cover off and there is a hoist lift type bracket towards the passenger side that you put the negative jumper cable on. I don't use jumper cables to jump somebody from my RL. I'm worried about frying The RLs electronics....... so I have a lithium jumper pack that's about the size of a small paperback and weighs about 1lb. It'll jump a friggin diesel and only needs to be topped off every 5-6 months. Plus it has all kinds of cables to charge phones, tablets, computers, etc. Cost about $55.

something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VF2WYQU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Randy

I'm sorry to burst your bubble but that little thing won't even click the starter on a typical 3/4 ton diesel (6.7L).

 

Re: RL doesnt want to help with jumpstarting

I have also been keeping a small lithium jump starter in my vehicles for a while now. They are nice to have if there's nobody around plus they can recharge dead phones or other electronics.

 

Re: RL doesnt want to help with jumpstarting

I knew that would eventually be a problem or a pain up here in the north, being jumping another or getting a jump what a joke. A two minute job is now a half hour.

 

Re: RL doesnt want to help with jumpstarting

Geez, I just read the manual... I know without reading that I would have tried to cheat and just clamp it to a ground spot on the chassis/engine "Somewhere". Well, that is indeed a -negative- about this truck!

 

Re: RL doesnt want to help with jumpstarting

There's no need to access either battery's ground terminal. In fact, it's dangerous. The Ridgeline's owner's manual shows exactly where the proper ground connection is on page 566. It's the lift bracket on the side of the engine.

 

Re: RL doesnt want to help with jumpstarting

There's no need to access either battery's ground terminal. In fact, it's dangerous. The Ridgeline's owner's manual shows exactly where the proper ground connection is on page 566. It's the lift bracket on the side of the engine.

I quickly wrote the same thing, but then corrected myself because that is what I am used to on another vehicle. A dedicated ground post. But when I looked at the manual, it does say that the engine hanger you are referring to is under the engine cover, right? So, the point is, the wasted time to uncover the hanger.

 

Re: RL doesnt want to help with jumpstarting

and I was thinking the same thing. I've grounded to the chassis for years. Less chance of a spark around the battery acid fumes.

 

Re: RL doesnt want to help with jumpstarting

Screw the jumper cables and get a lithium booster pack and the issue of getting the cars lined up so the cables are long enough which sometimes is next to impossible. Worked so well the first time I tried this a few years back, I bought several and gave them as stocking stuffers for all the kids. Now I don't need to go running when they call so as they say "2 birds with 1 stone" :grin: I carry a mega version (way overkill) like this which will handle the biggest diesel engine with ease. https://no.co/gb150

 

Re: RL doesnt want to help with jumpstarting

I've been using the Microstart XP1 for a while now. It's a little more expensive, but quality components and a proven track record. They have a version for big diesels, too.

 

Re: RL doesnt want to help with jumpstarting

I have even made my own since all they really are only a lithium battery with some safety feature connected to it so you dont weld yourself to the car. Since I am into a little into RC car and boats, I have the charger required. My NOCO 150 I showed in the link above has a 8000mah 3s battery inside the housing which can be purchased for around $50. Add a set of booster clamps found on ebay for about $7 and you have a $400 unit for $60 however with less safety features.

Here is one of my home made units which cost me around $40 US. This will outperform anything commercially available in the less than $300 range. I even went up a notch and used a 4s battery which gives 14.8 volts as opposed to the typical 11.1 found in the 3S battery most commonly used in these devices. This thing really packs some big power.

 

Re: RL doesnt want to help with jumpstarting

Weego makes super nice jump starters and they can do V8 or diesel.


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Re: RL doesnt want to help with jumpstarting

I had to jump a few cars already with my truck. Instead of taking off the engine cover to access the ground point mentioned in the manual.. I clamp the ground cable to the engine mount on the passenger side.

 

Re: RL doesnt want to help with jumpstarting

I had to jump a few cars already with my truck. Instead of taking off the engine cover to access the ground point mentioned in the manual.. I clamp the ground cable to the engine mount on the passenger side.

I agree. This thread intrigued me to go and take the engine cover off to see how to do it. Once you've done it, you'll see that it takes maybe 20 seconds. Actually, putting it back on was more complicated because you have to line it up on the pins. But there are other exposed engine mounts that should be just as effective and as you say, then you don't have to take the engine cover off. I'm actually glad there is an engine cover, but I did find that the sandstorm I recently went through in Interstate 8 left a lot of sand underneath. Vacuumed it out. Good to understand more about the truck.